The Reveal: Bridesmaid Revisited

Apparently, this will be another of the posts wherein I will allude to my summer crafting plans, only to sidestep with another topic.

Here's the (hideous) bridesmaid dress I made for Allison:

Sorry, but it didn't fit on my (useless, wide-shouldered dress-form)...

Thanks to the backlight you can see the following booboos:

• I was correcting dart placement on the fly, so the left skirt dart is slightly misaligned from the princess seam bodice. This is NOT noticeable at all when the dress is being worn. Man, though, that's rookie.

• I misread the instructions for inserting the invisible zipper - in my defense, I've never made a dress like this before - so I didn't insert the zipper under the facing. I thought it seemed weird to face the garment and then reveal the zipper. It was only on second perusal of the instructions, that I realized I'd misread. Alas, given that there was no time or material to fuck with, I was loath to pull out a zipper that had already been picked once out of the original dress. Instead, I catch stitched the zip to the facing for a flat, if less than professional, finish. It's not noticeable when worn, of course.

Other Interesting Features of this Project:

• I forestalled near disaster on cutting the skirt too short (for boring reasons). I didn't have enough fabric to recut the skirt pieces, so I created a faux-waistband (the element that screwed with dart placement). I actually think it gives the dress a bit more of a "bridesmaid" feel. Note: It's not my fault that the bride opted for "Appalachian milkmaid" fabric. There's only so much one can do with it.

• I love this pattern. I love it so much that I'm making this dress for myself, with slight alterations (see below) next weekend. It's beautifully drafted and simple. The instructions are terrific - especially if you read them in a focused fashion.

• In an irony, while I haven't yet been able to draft a princess-seam sloper with the zest all of my mental energies and numerous attempts - and given that my body is available for fitting?! - this dress fits me almost perfectly in the bust. The apex, perfect. Seam alignment, perfect. Adequate room (but not too much) - perfect.

• This is the fabric I'll use:

• It's a lovely rayon challis from Fabrications Online. It's got a bit of heft, fantastic drape and about 10 percent of crosswise stretch. I got three yards to muslin the Rosie as many times as required, but it's a very nice fabric to (likely) throw away and it would be perfect for this pattern.

• I've made the following Kristin-required changes to the pattern I originally altered for Allison (a size that grades from a 10 to a 12, with many mods, of course). For me:
• I made the upper bust slightly less full.
• I lowered the V neck by another inch. The original pattern calls for a high-jewel neck, which I like, but as I'd already altered the neck to suit my sister's preference, it's just as easy to stick with it.
• I raised the front armscye slightly and wedged out a bit of fabric - like a tiny dart, which then I closed.
• I increased the waist size by an inch.
• I kept the bodice and skirt length of the version photoed above, but I got rid of the 3" band. Instead, I added 1.5 inches to the bottom of the bodice and 1.5 inches to the top of the skirt.
• I removed a wedge of fabric from the lower back, tapering to nothing at the side-seams. I don't have a sway back, but I do that adjustment because it allows me keep length in the bodice (where I need it). It's like an inverse FBA, that allows me to be less extreme in my FBAs.

• Here's the deal, peeps: That bodice is drafted for a projected bust that isn't overly high. If you're flat and young, keep that in mind. If you're my age, happy day! I should say that the alteration I made for Allison (whose full bust is 36" - 2 inches smaller than mine - and it fits me nonetheless) was to increase the size of the side front piece both at the side seam and at the princess seam side. I also included a tiny bit of extra fabric on the front piece, at the bust apex, but the majority of my changes were on that side front piece. That's what moved the princess seam front and centre - something that's necessary when your boobs go straight out, not towards the sides. I went off-road with that side front piece, effectively it's a size 12 at the armscye, approximately the largest pattern size at the apex (that's a 16 I think), tapering to a size 10 at the bottom. However, it was a very easy fix because I graded between sizes using the available multi-size cut lines, something I rarely do. Of course, I also had to lengthen the front pieces to allow for curve below the bust apex.

• Truly, it is so easy to overdo an FBA. Less is more, especially if you are narrow and projected. The less you alter the front piece, the better. Let the side front piece pick up the slack. I also find it completely bizarre that I used someone else's measurements, not myself, to fit this dress. I think it's fair to say, my fitting skills have much developing to do :-)

Ties that Bind

Yesterday late afternoon, Sara and Andrea came by for an impromptu knitting-with-Rioja session in the back garden.

Yes, you read that correctly. We sat in the outside world. For 2 hours. And the sun was shining. And there was a vaguely green quality around us. And the wine was delicious. The snacks were gobbled heartily (always a good sign). So often, I am reminded that life is good. What's better than excellent conversation with friends, food, wine, sun (but shade to sit in) and occupied hands?

Well, there were gifts!

Andrea presented us with the most gorgeous knitting bags I've ever seen:

This one's mine - stupidly I didn't photograph Sara's...

The bags are plush with batting (to protect knitting) and big enough to hold a sweater - though somehow they are so compact.

And just to blow your freakin' mind, Andrea silk screened the fabric to create those gorgeous images. (And each bag was made with completely different silk screened art?!?!?)

I have to say, I've received many beautiful and wonderful gifts in my life, but this one has a special place in the pantheon. Not only is it utterly creative, perfectly-made, practical and lovely - but it was hand-crafted for me with forethought and kindness. This is something I'll use every day, and every time I use it I will feel the friendship with which it was made.

Honestly, I seem to have so many big-feeling reasons to cry these days...

I'll leave you on a more trivial note. The bridesmaid dress is coming along:

Isn't this a treat fabric for a 41-year old bridesmaid??

I did have a near disaster (for stupid reasons, too boring to discuss): I cut the skirt too short (from the original reclaimed skirt). I then realized I didn't have enough fabric to recut it. So I got imaginative and added a 3-inch strip to the waistline of all the skirt pieces. You'd think it would look horrible, but it's actually an interesting design feature - skirt darts notwithstanding.

I sense this thing is going to be too big in the bust for Allison - in an act of extreme irony, I may have nailed my own princess seam woven bodice while trying to make one for someone else... (It's unclear at this point, I used her measurements!!, so Allison - if you're reading - don't freak out. It would be a miracle if this thing fit you perfectly. I'm aiming for slightly too big over too small, however. Just so you don't look like a sausage...)

Furthermore, I love this pattern. It's so nicely drafted - and the instructions are excellent. It's not complex but the results are elegant (or they would be with a fantastic fabric).

That's my weekend so far...

In Which I Invoke Rolling Stones Lyrics as a Herald of Sewing Good Fortune

Have you ever sewn something fitted for someone whose body you did not have access to for fitting purposes?

That's where I find myself at the moment, about to cut into a precious small amount of irreplaceable (if hideous) fabric for that bridesmaid dress my sister needs.

To remind you, this is the pattern I've modified to suit her dimensions:

Here's the thing, I got ever conceivable measurement from my sister. Nipple to nipple span, check. Height of bust apex, check. Side seam to nipple, check. Width and length of everything, check.

But as we know, in sewing, the end is not merely the sum of mathy parts.

I haven't yet cracked the code to make a woven princess bodice for myself. It seems grandiose to imagine I'll be able to do it for someone else, in another country, even if that someone else has a bust measurement in the realm of the original pattern dimensions (concurrent with her upper bust size).

The thing about princess seams is that they have to fall in the right spot. If you're fairly straight, you won't diverge much from the pattern-drafter's original schematic. But when you have curves - and my sister, while not outrageously bust-curvy has an interesting array of shape considerations in the bodice due to a proportionately wide back - then you're best served by trying and altering (as many times as it takes). Guess who doesn't have that luxury?

Look, no point in having cut paralysis. This dress has to get made and go back to America asap. If it doesn't fit well, too bad. Allison already made the choice to trust my version* of this dress over the one she received from an Etsy dressmaker who made a dress style other than the one my sister ordered, with inappropriate lines (in light of the measurements the dressmaker had originally requested). Those measurements weren't suitable for an empire-waisted, gathered skirt, high v neck made of freakin' quilting cotton. And not even the good kind. You can only imagine how horrid that end result was, if I'm willing to a) sew for someone other than me who b) isn't on hand to fit and c) to use a fabric that offends my every sensibility. Note: I like quilting cotton just fine - for baby dresses and, um, quilts.

I'm not naive. Good will does not a fitted garment make. Even the kind of good will supported by numerous measurements reflected (sewing goddess willing, accurately) in an altered paper pattern. If this does not succeed, it will not be for lack of effort on my part. I've spent hours debating the numbers, purchased a pattern, modified the pattern, resuscitated half of the pre-existing dress by painstakingly picking out seams. I haven't even started making the thing, which as we know, with my pace, is bound to take the full weekend. Mind you, if it doesn't succeed, effort won't matter. It'll still be a half-assed looking dress. And let's face it, it's not starting on a high note.

So, I'm hoping for a bit of providence. I would be so grateful for a gentle breeze of sewing kismet.

As my classic rock partners in craft so often remind me: You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.

*This is sister-lingo for: she begged me relentlessly until I couldn't possibly say no without being the worst human being on the planet.

Dress Up

Sometimes, when you need a simple, armscye-princess seam, sleeveless A-line dress pattern, you get lucky:

New Sinbad and Sailor Hepworth Dress

I thought I was going to have to hack this from a variety of patterns, for the bridesmaid dress I'm remaking for my sister, given that I never make woven dresses so I have no relevant patterns lying around. The wedding she's going to is on June 7 and I've got to finish this and get it back to North Carolina in time. That means I have to send it back by May 15 at the latest. Don't have time to order a pattern, I thought (given that they all take 2 weeks to arrive, somehow). No pattern stores remain downtown anymore.

But here we have a nice pdf, all ready to go. I do hope that this process goes smoothly. I've only got one shot to get it right...

Childproof

Just call me a giver (or a woman with too many garments) but this is my sewing project for the weekend:

Butterick 5592

The theory is that my kid is going to help me by cutting the pattern and observing.

That's code for whining about wanting to play on Club Penguin.

PS: I've been a woefully horrible comment responder - though I always love and appreciate all the comments you write. It's been crazy on all fronts in my life lately but I am replying, albeit slowly xo

Seafoam Dreams

As you may know, shortly I am going to visit my family in North Carolina. You've lived the skirt experiment for my sister, here's the (arguably more successful) tunic sweater for my mother:



It's my modified version of V8634, a universally flattering pattern that I can't recommend enough. It doesn't hurt that you can make the entire thing (save edge stiching the cowl seam) on a serger in 2 hours. (Note: cutting time is on top of that.) I like to serge hem the sleeves and bodice in a contrasting colour. IMO, chocolate brown is perfect with muted green.

This top doesn't fit my dress form outrageously well but then it's not my size. I made the medium - remember this sweater fits quite large. Definitely consider going down a size, especially if your fabric is on the stretchier side.

On this topic, do any of you find it really challenging to sew for others (others whose measurements you actually have access to) because you're so attuned to trying to get everything to fit YOU perfectly? Even as I fit to my mother's measurements - and her ease preferences - I was disturbed by how wrong this thing looked when I tried it on me.

I love this fabric. It's a soft, warm, seafoam sweater knit - alas, arguably too warm for NC at this time of year. I've bought it on two occasions now and each time I've ended up using it for someone else. The first time, I cut it against the grain by accident (stupid mistake I've never made before or since) and it was like a straight jacket on me. Fortunately, my friend Nicole (a redhead) fits into it perfectly.

I will go back to the shop to see if, by any chance, some of this fabric remains. I really should buy whatever's left. I don't think I will ever tire of it.

Pleatitudes

The problem with sewing for someone else is that it's as likely to fail as it is when you sew for yourself. Only, now you've raised someone else's expectations and the failure (such as it may be) is squarely on you.

I suspect this skirt will fall into the wadder catgory, despite the fact that I have worked very carefully on it and it looks really nice from the front:



My label was sewn into the inner waistband before assembly, so it doesn't show from the outside. And while I don't love these labels - neither the name (which will not stick) nor the quality - I'm still pleased to have sewn it in in this fashion.


I really tried to make the inside lovely. I catch stitched the hem because I didn't want it to show from the front and because I want to have the latitude to change the length without ripping out a row of top stitches.

See the slip stitched inner waistband:


Alas, this is the craziness that persists in the back - despite the fact that I've re-reviewed the instructions 4 times, to confirm that I didn't misread them:


WTF??? I've decided to leave the garment on my dress form, to see if the pleat will settle. I also think that maybe I've been to literal in my pressing. Perhaps I should have let it fall on its own. I'm afraid to do any more pressing than I've already done. You can see how the fabric is getting close to overworked.

One other thing you probably won't be able to focus on in light of the pleat horror: I am so addicted to my snap setter and pearl snaps. They are so much more fun to insert than buttons. And I think they're sturdier.