My Lingerie Wardrobe: The Basics and What Taking Stock Has Taught Me

Warning: This post is endless. And it's all about bras. Proceed at your own risk.

I highly encourage everyone to do an annual inventory of the bra wardrobe. It really is an awesome way to learn more about yourself as a shopper, to learn about your changing tastes, sizes and needs. Furthermore, if you take the (non-negligible) amount of time required to enter in all of your specific bra info into Bratabase, you'll have so much good information at your fingertips (never mind that you'll be helping the world). More on how I use this database in an upcoming post...

What I've learned this go-round is:

• Pretty well every bra I own has 90 per cent of the same measurements (Bratabase has facilitated my knowledge of this fact). It surprises me how consistent this is, given that my bras come in different sizes, styles and brands.

• I need to improve my bra extender situation. I want all the colours in 2x3 ad 3x3 hooks and eyes. These aren't expensive and might make the difference between keeping a bra with a 32 band (that now I find too snug) or putting it in the "to be repurposed" drawer.

• I really don't need any more beige/neutral bras (remember the drought of 2 years ago? Well, it's a thing of the past, apparently). Note: This has not prevented me from buying 2 new beige/neutral bras. Why? I need one to fit perfectly, beautifully and upliftedly on days when I can't handle a tight band (thank you, Empreinte Daisy) and I want to try a new brand (Avocado Essentia).

• By my standards, I need a few replacement black basics. Currently I own 4 (one of which is on the edge). I've resolved this issue by purchasing 3 new ones (Avocado, Mirabelle / Masquerade, Persia / Cleo Minnie). This also meets the goal of "online bra shopping adventure". Gotta love that.

• Of all of the new bras I've purchased, in recent memory, only two of them has 2x3 hooks. I'm not into them anymore (except if they manage to hit a sweet spot, band-wise). Having done some fairly extensive research, I've learned that only Empreinte does 3x3 consistently in a wide range of sizes (not simply the large cups and large bands). Other brands are hit and miss. If Ewa Michalak and Avocado work (TBD), there are some 3x3 offerings in those brands - and they're affordable.

• I've outgrown some undies. Happily, only the ones that were on the cusp of too-snug to begin with. Have had to replace those or I won't wear the bras - ask me how I know.

• I have pretty awesome taste in lingerie - if I do say so myself! :-) I still love all the things I loved when I originally bought them. Or I've divested myself of them. But, in truth, most of the bras I've bought are, by my estimation, GORGEOUS. I give them away for reasons other than taste mismatch.

• My cup size is officially one size larger than it was 2 years ago. For a long while, I was hovering on the cusp but I'm not any longer. This will likely make it easier for me to buy. Given that (IMO) I don't require additional full bust volume (like, to improve the quality of my life), I would prefer that this were not the case. But it is. Hormonal fluctuation is a bitch. I'm going to give my body the benefit of the doubt. When I finish this phase of my life, I'm confident that things will settle (much as they did after puberty and childbirth) and that I will return to my exceedingly stable (in the scheme of things) cup size. You'll just have to stick around to see :-)

• My underbust measurement is unchanged (30 inches) - it just feels wider, probably because I can't stand anything snug.

• For my comfort, I like to have 5-7 beige/neutral and 5-7 black sets - all perfectly-fitted, natch. I've very specific about when I wear what. I have bras for briefings, bras for days when I'll spend time writing at my desk, bras to match an outfit (either craziness under monochrome or the other way around). Lately, I'm not feeling so upbeat, so I've noticed my interest in the crazy (fashion) bras has waned. Since the latest cull, I've got 8 of this sort remaining - a couple of which you might consider basic, given that they're solids / not bright. If I'm going to expand my lingerie wardrobe any further, in the next year, it will be in the fashion category. (There's an argument that it's a bit on the wan side.) Mind you, some people would consider 8 fashion bras to be more than adequate, especially with 15 neutrals to round out the story. BTW, I also own 2 sports bras. I've torched the lounge bras. I cannot wear ugliness, especially if it's not comfortable.

But on with the details, in no particular order. Note: These bras are shown without undies because, as neutrals, they're generally matchable with many brands. I'm going to rate them against each other, but keep in mind that they all fit very well. The ratings aren't about fit on me, but about how much use I get from them and which are my personal faves...

Kristin's Basic Beige / Neutral Bras:

The Outlier: Bravissimo Alana

I wrote a review of this bra here.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe? It's a totally gorgeous shade of pink - not beige! Goes really well with my skin tone. It's got terrific support and great uplift. It's got 3 hooks! Very well made. Very comfortable! Totally pretty.

Why is it an outlier? See the review for details. Effectively, it's too shallow at the centre cup (you can see that if you compare this bra to all of the others you're about to see. Notice how it doesn't puff up fabric from the centre gore - it's largely flat there.) It's got the right volume for me, just not the right shape. Also, since my back decided to stop liking snug bands, this 32 has moved into extender territory for me...

Note: You must get the matching undies. Mine are on their way from UK now. I've only worn this bra 3 times so far, despite what I love about it, because the pink is totally unmatchable.

Rating: B This bra isn't the "most" anything. But it does give outstanding lift with comfort.

The Warhorse: Fantasie Smoothing 4520

I've written numerous reviews of this bra. Here's an index...

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe? Well, it's one of the only 2 seam-free (molded) bras I own. (Note: I do not own one lined or padded bra so both of my seam-frees are soft cup with wires.) It gives a totally smooth and round look under snug tops. It never shows through. In the right size it's comfortable. It's got amazing projection for a molded bra - most molded bras are shallow - and even when they're not, they carry most volume in the outer breast. I need it at the inner breast. I generally own it in 2 different sizes (because it's not so forgiving in the cups or back).

Rating: A+ for wearability, if nothing else.

The Upscale Newbie: Empreinte Daisy

I've written a review of this bra here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Well, it is PERFECTION in the cups. It's gorgeous. And it's utterly comfortable, particularly in the band. As mentioned, when I need something that's going to look as good as it feels, this is the beige bra I'll go for. I will definitely replace this one when it gives out (which won't be for years, if my other Empreintes are anything to go by).

Note: You must get the matching undies.

Rating: A++ It would get 3 pluses if it were affordable to many.

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Say what you will about this bra - it's awesome when you want a vintage look. This is the ONLY unwired bra I've ever worn that actually keeps my boobs apart. Given my inner-cup immediate projection and size, that's miraculous. It's apparently the world's most popular bra. (I can't verify that claim.) It's German-engineered. It's made of something like 54 pieces (which is why it's so contoured).

It's also insanely comfortable with 3 hooks and eyes. It gives tremendous uplift (albeit in a pointy shape - which I realize isn't popular these days). There is NO bounce. It's got the length of a midline bra, not a regular one. It's the ultimate sweater bra.

Challenges? Well, it doesn't come in small band/large cup combos. Mind you, the band is very firm (but comfortable!) so you could totally size up in the band. Even the snug-band loving Krissie would say this. It's super-warm. Not a summertime bra! It's also impossible to wear under most every neckline but the crew and the turtleneck. It's not like a modern repro - it's seriously old-school. So if you don't like that, it ain't for you.

Rating: B+ It would get a higher rating if it were more wearable. But when it fits the bill, it's terrific.

The Old Friend: Freya Phoebe

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: This is the oldest bra I own and it still fits snugly more than 10 years later. I've gone through phases where it was my ONLY beige bra so I wore it multiple times a week. It's like a magical bra. Regardless of my size and shape, it has fit me perfectly - and it still looks new?! It's an original Freya - from back when the quality was high, and the price point was higher. Back before Freya started catering to the teen boobs and lost its edge. 

You probably won't be able to find this one on eBay. Trust me, I've tried. I've also tried to find the other styles made in the same fabric (different pattern/colourways) and same cut. They're gone, gone, gone.

The lace is beautiful, the colour is too. It's got an open shape at the upper cup, which allows one with even to full on top breasts to wear it through various monthly fluctuations. This is accomplished with firm lace, not the flimsy stretch stuff they're putting on all of the Panaches these days. The wires are a perfect width. The fabric has no give, but it's not industrial-seeming in any way. It's completely invisible under tight clothing. It's one of the first wearable bras I ever bought that made me feel completely sexy.

Rating:  A++

The One To Wear To a Picnic: Freya Lacey

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Why not, I say. Look, I don't go to a lot of picnics, but occasionally I want a girly bra - one that can go under most anything. This is a nice plunge (not too extreme the way the Panaches and Cleos tend to be). The band is quite firm for a Freya (again, this is an older model - came out as the brand began to lose it). The undies are very comfortable. This bra is fairly polarizing. Most people have a hate-on for it.

Note: You must get the matching undies. This beige is more taupey than beige and would be a nightmare to try to match - never mind with dots.

Rating: B It's hard to get excited by something this "country".

But we're not done! Now there are the black bras to contend with.

The French Mistress: Empreinte Roxane

I've written about this one numerous times. See the index.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe: Because it's fucking sexy. It fits awesomely. It lifts, it supports, it gives great shape under clothing. It's luxe. It's sheer but strong. The band is comfortable (3x3). When you put on this bra, you're ready to take on the world - and have a quickie while you're at it. Alas, it's discontinued but if you can find it - don't be stupid. Just buy it. (Then email me to let me know where you got it.)

Rating: A++

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this is in my current wardrobe: This is one of the only bras I've got doubles of. What can I say? When I'm wearing cashmere in February, it's a good choice. It's also fun for getting my Bettie Page on. Same pluses and minuses exist with the black as with the beige (see above).

Rating: B+

The Desperate Measure: Empreinte Melody

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Well, desperation, partially. I needed a 3x3, black bra with an incredibly comfortable band STAT or I was going to lose my mind. And, given the dearth of black bra options I have in my current wardrobe, it does see its fair share of wear. Of all the Empreintes, I find this one particularly unlovely. It borders on dowdy - unheard of with this brand! It's incredibly comfortable (straps are padded?!) but it's molded - and it's not deep at the centre cups. The gore only notionally tacks. I'll happily phase it out as soon as I have a better alternative. Then, if someone else likes it (and there are those who love this style), it will find a happy new home. Note: I do LOVE the version of this bra with satin ribbon around the upper cups - it's a plunge and it's gorgeous. When I was between sizes, I couldn't get it to fit - the band was too big or the cup was too small. May give it another try soon. See - this is why you take an inventory!

Rating: B-

The Siren: Empreinte Lola

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Because it opened my eyes to Empreinte. Because I looked long and hard to find it and it was my first experience of pure sex converging with utter practicality. Because, when I bought it the fit, on me, was unparalleled. (There are few bras that give you the kind of boobs on a plate look that this thing has going on.) Because, if I were a princess, I'd have them make it for me in all the colours of the rainbow. Because the lace is spectacular. Because the band is comfortable. Because it wears like a tank.

Alas, I bought this when I commonly wore a 30 band and I think this bra is on the cusp of being too small in both back and cup. I don't think I'll be able to part with it, even if I have to retire it. It represents a wonderful moment in time.

Rating: A++

So, there you go, the longest post EVAH. I do hope you've enjoyed it.

Today's questions: Which is your fave and why? Do you own any of these? If yes, what's your experience of the bra in question? Do you think I'm a nut for having spent 2 hours documenting all of my neutral bras? Let's talk - seriously - after all this work, I'd love some good conversation. :-)

The Plain, Beige Bra Chronicles: Weird Denouement

OK, just to prolong the (uncalled for) mystery, I'm going to start this post with a sub-story and a proviso.

The proviso is that this tale ends with a Poe-worthy twist (though one that may disappoint you).

The sub-story is that I bought 3 bras on Figleaves, one of which being the Plain, Beige bra that works. Once again I was charged 60 dollars by customs - because Figleaves feels compelled to ship in boxes that catch the eye. I did not receive any meaningful discount on any of these three bras - which cost me, to begin with, $150 CDN. That's on the high-end for online lingerie, that isn't high-end lingerie. By the time all was said and done, I'd paid $210 CDN for 3 bras, 2 of which were horrible (more to come on this) and have since been returned (at the cost of an additional 12 bucks). While I will get $100 refunded for the returned bras, I've basically spent $120 bucks on the world's most basic, beige bra. And, as you'll read momentarily, one which is readily found for 50 bucks online.

The upshot, my friends, is that I am done with Figleaves.

Please do not misunderstand, the company is entirely professional and correct. The client service is excellent. The stock is huge. If I lived in the UK, I'm sure my love would continue. But there is no benefit to me, with my considerable knowledge of online bra-sourcing, to pay top-dollar, shipping and then ridiculous customs. Yeah, I know that Customs finds you on occasion. But my odds with Figleaves (either because they have a lot of profile, or because of the boxes they use to ship) puts me - and I'd hazard to suggest the average Canadian purchaser - at a real disadvantage.

But moving on...

Here's what happened. I looked online and determined that the Fantasie Elodie and Vivienne might be solid options. (In the end, I don't know which of these was less suited to me. Both had textured fabric the likes of which you'd find on a sofa. The seams were outrageous by any standards. The colours were meh. The fit was fine except one of them (can't remember but I think it was the Vivienne) was only nominally supportive. They were both ugly. Interestingly, neither was basic enough that you could pair it with non-matched undies, without it seeming totally unmatched. In no universe would I wear either.)

Anyway, at the same time - for some bizarre reason I cannot explain - I felt compelled to reorder (for the 8000th time since it stopped fitting me) the original perfect plain, beige bra:

Fantasie Smoothing Balconette (Style 4520)

Don't ask me why, you know, during the great, Online Shop Along I ordered it in 4 sizes (none of which fit as I seemed to be distinctly between cup and back sizes at that point). I also felt they'd changed the fabric slightly since the good-old-days, and it wasn't as supportive or slippery. You may recall, at this time, I found that my quite full-on-top boobs had become vaguely less so.

This bra is a challenge for many women because it requires a very specific sort of upper cup fullness (there being no seams though note that the fabric is not self-structured, it is floppy when unworn, like an unlined, seamed bra). Some women also feel that it doesn't provide enough side support.

Mind you, if it fits, it can be perfect because it really does disappear under all clothing and - despite the fact that I am totally unimpressed by the melon-round shape - it gives an awesome spherical look - and superior lift with support.

Well, I went back into my archives and realized that there was one potential size in which I hadn't yet ordered it - increased back size, increased cup size. (Note: While in the fall I was very much between cup sizes, at the moment I'm firmly into the larger of those two. And vis a vis band: While my back size seems to have gone down in many brands and styles, Fantasie definitely being one of them, this bra seems to fit quite firmly in the 32 band.)

People, this new size fit just about perfectly. Admittedly, when one has breasts of slightly different sizes, as most women do, this sort of bra is almost impossible. At least lined, molded bras (which I loathe and wouldn't wear for any reason) provide structure against the smaller breast (so you can't see wrinkling or shrinkage quite as readily under clothing). But it was back to the glory days for me!

If only it hadn't cost me $120 bucks (given that I've usually got it for under $50), it would have been perfect.

Of course, it is particularly anticlimactic to have spent hundreds of dollars sourcing a new, reliable standard only to return to the original but I am EXCEEDINGLY grateful that the original seems back to fitting me. I will admit that, on some level, this disturbs me no end, since I've seen this bra fit and then not fit, and there doesn't appear to be an alternative for me anywhere!?

So there you go. Thoughts or feelings??

Lingerie Shop Along: The End.

Guess it’s time to close the loop on the online lingerie purchase disaster of 2012. It doesn’t end well, but I’m officially done. 

The Fantasie Smoothing Balconette bra arrived – it’s the right model – but the size is off. Based on the horrifying bigness of the full-cup version (see post linked to in the para above), I opted to order the balconette version (purchased many times in the past) one size smaller in the cup, and one size smaller in the band, than that which I usually wear.

 

Though that's worked before, this one is too small, if just barely. What I mean is that it fits in the cup but the back is leaning towards too tight and it pushes the flesh up under my arms and at the side of the bra. To qualify – the underwire fits and the cups fit, there’s just not quite enough corollary fabric at the side band. It will probably stretch and be just fine. Or maybe it won't. I don't care.

 

I’d cry from frustration if this weren’t sort of funny.

 

I’m not returning it. I’ve already spent twice the amount the bra cost on shipping alone (6 returns?!). At least now I know for sure what size to order in this bra should that occasion ever recur. Note to self: Write it the fuck down. Along with the model number (vis a vis this wise comment).

 

I’m changing gears. Next time I order bras – when discretionary spending is back on the table - it will be to test for a new basic. (Pls. recall that I intend to write about the process, it just hasn’t fully come together.)

Point is, I had a hideous online shopping experience but I'm happy to move on. I mean, it's the only one that's ever fit that description. I won't let it deter me in the future.

Breaking the Mold

I sense the writing's on the wall. Based on reader feedback, preliminary research and what I can deduce (though Figleaves did advise this eve, that it has a new order on the Fantasie Smoothing Underwired Balconette due to arrive in 2013), it's time to find an alternative staple basic beige bra (aka "nude" in my skin tone).

Let me recap my many needs:

• It's got to be supportive.

• It's got to be vaguely attractive in cut and material. I don't expect it to be exciting, but if I end up at the hospital or (far better, if just as unlikely) having some kind of quickie in a fancy hotel hallway, I don't want to be embarrassed by it. 

• It's got to be without seams or any embellishments having profile. No lace. No texture. Just smooth and seam-free.

• It's got to have under wire.

• It's got to be flexible (aka soft cup). Firm molded cups are not for me. We can debate what molded means, but for the purposes of my needs it means anything that has even a slight hint of built-in cup structure - foam in even the slightest amount, padding, chemical shaping etc. 

Apropos of that last bullet, practically all seam-free bras are molded. That means the fabric is chemically altered on a mold to produce a structured, seam-free shape having the appropriate cup volume or that the fabric is seared around a foam mold in the chosen shape. You know these bras - they stand up on their own. Sometimes they're padded (the ones with foam or inserts), sometimes the molding is less extreme but the bra remains somewhat breast-shaped at all times. 

I really don't know how this bra-type has become so popular because it fits most women rather poorly. Well, I'm pretty sure the reason is that it's cheap to make so it's been in the best interests of brands to market them well. No seaming means reduced labour and less intricate design. While retail stores have promoted molded bras as good options for women of different breast sizes, they nearly always gape on the smaller side. Furthermore the shape does not tailor to one's breasts. It forces the breast to conform to the mold. 

As a sewist, I can tell you that seams are magical, from a fit perspective. They mitigate gaps and puckers. They promote symbiosis between the breast (given all of the parameters of its shape and size) and the bra. Molded bras often gape at the side breast or pucker at the gore because they're a blunt instrument. They also tend to add volume with structure. Furthermore, the shape they provide seems artificial, to my eye though, in truth, I do prefer a pointed cup, which many others find just as artificial-seeming. I can spot a molded bra a mile away. (Note: for a "standard" shaped, symmetrical small chest, molded cups can work just fine. But on women of larger chests - and that's an increasing proportion of the bra-wearing population - they tend to fall flat.)

What to do? Most seamed bras, while they contribute to good fit, have seams. Most molded bras, while they often fit badly, are seam-free. Which is where the Fantasie Smoothing Underwired Balconette comes in.  It manages to give good fit in a soft cup (i.e. not molded) without seams. 

For what it's worth: Many women, while they purport to love the Smoothing Balconette, do acknowledge that the style falls down on fit in one way - it often puckers at the top of the cups if the wearer has bottom-dense breasts or one breast that's larger than the other (in that case, there's often puckering on the smaller side). As one of those women, let me tell you that it's not visible under clothing in any way and said pucker is largely correctable by repositioning of breasts in the cup and shortening the straps accordingly. This kind of proves my point, above. Without seams it's really hard to work around differences in breast sizing or asymmetry. 

OK, let's leave behind the molded bra rant. I've beat it to death, largely because it's so germane to my next step. 

We now know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that I will not buy a bra with an inflexible molded cup. We also know that, in addition to the soft cup, I require under wires no seams - and all of this in a larger than a department store standard cup size and a smaller than department store standard back size. Gotta tell you, them pickins is slim.

Stay tuned for some options I've researched, which I'll present in my next post on this topic. And please feel free to weigh in with some options you might know and love.

But, today's question: What's your take on the molded cup? Love it? Hate it? What's your rationale?