Cleo Minnie: A Brief Review (And Other Lingerie Stories)

I don't know if you'd call my latest online shopping exploits a success, but they're interesting IMO.

To recap, in the last month (following the bra sale) I've online shopped:

• Empreinte daisy thong
• Cleo Minnie bra and thong
• Masquerade Persia bra and brief
• Avocado Essentia bra and undies
• Avocado Mirabelle bra and undies
• Bravissimo Alana thong
• Freya Nadine thong
• 3x3 extenders
• 2x3 extenders

Everything is taking a stupid amount of time to arrive. 3 weeks later, I'm still waiting on the Alana thong and the 2 Avocado sets (well, only ordered these 2 weeks ago and they are coming from Poland) and the smaller size of the Masquerade set (the original one arrived quickly and was way too large in both bra and undies). The extenders were ordered more recently, and from Thailand, so I'm not surprised that those are taking a while.

I was about to lose it but the Minnie set arrived today. I'm exceedingly irritated with Belle-Lingerie for having charged me shipping 3 times when I ordered 3 things at the same time and advised them as much. I'm even more irritated that 2 of the 3 items were packaged together and I was still charged shipping x2. I can scarcely be bothered to argue about it at this point. I've already followed up and I got a lame response. Note: When and if you order from Belle-Lingerie (eBay shop with terrific stock and good prices), make sure you EMAIL them directly - not via eBay messaging - to ensure that your multiple purchases are shipped together.

So here's where we're at, fit-wise:

• Masquerade set was way too big but it was gorgeous. I'm really hoping that the smaller bra and undies does the trick - or this will have been a pricey experiment, what with paying return shipping twice.

• The Cleo Minnie is very cute but, in my experimental one back-size up / one cup size up, I'm learning quickly that, during the week I did the majority of my purchasing, I over-estimated my dimensions. So far, in Masquerade and Cleo, the 34 back size is actually great. Both Masquerade and Cleo bands are notoriously snug. We might say tight. I mean, Cleo fits a good band size to a size and a half smaller than it should. For example, I've owned 30 back Cleos that only stretched to 29 inches. A 30 should arguably stretch to at least 30 inches and generally would stretch to 31 inches. In this instance, where things have gone sideways is in the cup. Not that I didn't realize this before ordering, but upsizing the band and upsizing (by 1) the letter measurement results in a cup jump of 2 sizes. I mean, my boobs are marginally a size larger - but they are most definitely not 2 sizes larger. So upping the band without going down in the cup is a crap shoot. 

• Sidebar: I find it very odd to receive bras that don't fit cuz they're too large. As a person with a very projected shape, this isn't a regular occurrence. In my experience, brand-for-brand, projected breasts tend to fit a size larger than breast volume warrants, given the way projected tissue is distributed. It's much easier to design for a wider root and shallow shape, and it takes less fabric. The near-constant exceptions to this are Cleo and Empreinte, both of which design with a projected shape in mind. Masquerade, now defunct as it's been absorbed and devolved by Panache, is another brand that was known for its projected offerings in certain styles.  Update: Just tried on the Minnie again today and I do not know what I was thinking. This is as oversized as the Masquerade Persia was. Must be returned for smaller size, no two ways about it.

• The Daisy thong is great - and I got it for a very good price. Too bad I can't really get with the matching bottom in an inverse colourway. I'm working on it.

• The Nadine thong - repurchased in an XL as the M was really snug (right from the get go), has only marginally improved the situation. That bottom is crazy small. I mean, I like thongs that fit loosely, so it is a bit of personal preference, but the XL fits like a medium in my opinion. Still, it's better than a medium that fits like an XS. It's passable.

A bit more about the Cleo Minnie:

• I'm impressed by how this brand grades its sizes. The larger size manages to be very firm, supportive, uplifting and totally boobs on a plate (what it's known for). 

• The cups in the Minnie fit quite deeply. I'd put them on par with the Ellis. It's the same cut.

• There's still too much underband for my liking. I think this signals the death-knell of Cleo for me. I'm a short-waisted person who doesn't want an inch of wire and fabric at the under bust. The Lori is a much better Cleo style from this vantage point, but it provides a totally different shape.

• The fabric is on par with the Melissa, in terms of softness and quality. That's better than some of the other Cleos I've tried lately, but the fabrics are never going to scream luxury. This is a cheap and cheerful brand designed for ladies who are new in their bra careers.

• The polka dot pattern is totally fun and youthful. I've recently seen the red and white polka dot version and I actually think it's cuter than the black and white - but it fits even more generously than the black. Black dye tends to shrink fabric very slightly. Why bra companies don't grade with that in mind is beyond me, but whatevs.

• The thong is sized generously. You might want to consider going down a size.

So, there you go. Still waiting on the fun bras - the Avocados which I am SO hopeful about (in a way that's likely to disappoint me, so I should just stop with that). On this topic, anyone here tried Avocado and, if yes, how's the fit? Do you own the Minnie? Thoughts about that one? Let's talk.

Shop Versus Drop

The Svalbard is almost finished wet-blocking - a state for which I am grateful because knitting it drove me to distraction. In full disclosure, I am at my most compulsive in late winter (just before the spring arrives). Alas, in 2014 this may bode particularly badly as the winter is likely never to end and then I may have to insane-craft forever. My body needs a break, to say nothing of my brain.

On the plus side, I knit up an advanced-design in 3 weeks.

Photos to come, natch, but while I wait for the creature to stitch-set, I'll tell you about a few new purchases. Remember when I got pertussis and all I did for 3 5 months was to online shop by way of making myself feel like I would live to see another year? Well, I'm not quite at that state of shopping to mood alter*, but this winter is so phenomenally demoralizing that it's all I can do to stop myself from buying a new house in an entirely different country. When you consider that kind of damage, buying some yarn and shoes doesn't seem so extreme.

For starters: yarn. Look, I love to buy small-batch hand-dyed yarns at the LYS or at online boutiques but I knit a lot and so I choose to stock the basics. When I purchase for a specific project, I'm apt to buy very specific yarn. But I need sizable stash for when the mood strikes to, say, make a sweater on a whim. I try always to have 1000 yards of fingering and sport/dk on hand, in chic neutrals, for those moments. Since I just knit 2 sweaters, using stash yarn, I'm in the market for a top up.

My go-to yarn, for this purpose, is Quince and Co. - specifically Chickadee (the dk/sport weight) and Finch (the fingering). The yarn is reliable, strong, well-dyed (if not hand-dyed), comes in numerous beautiful colours, does not have a halo, does not tend to pill, recovers to size after blocking and supports a local economy (if not mine). Furthermore, the price is very reasonable. It's the highest-quality yarn at the price-point, IMO. And the shipping charges are reasonable.

Which is why I bought these:

Finch in Petal - when you see this knit, it's a very pale pink...

Finch in Twig

Petal isn't a colour I would generally go for - it's a very cool, ballet pink. But I think it will go perfectly as an accent colour for the Twig - and with these, I can make another version of the yoked Indicum Pullover (a sweater  I love, even though, last time I made it I used the wrong yarn). I can also use the Petal to pair beautifully with the extra skeins I have of Slate and Lichen. And one of these days I'm going to have occasion to knit another baby gift. What colour yarn could be better for that?

I bought the sport/dk weight in Storm, a blue tinged grey (as opposed to Slate - which used for the blocking Svalbard - a grey-tinged blue):

Chickadee in Storm - when you see this knit, it's a grey...

Additionally, and on a whim (since you know I am an online adventurer), after considering the Ferragamo bow flat for a long while, and then seeing it look totally chic on a woman of my age at the coffee shop, I decided to take the plunge with these:

Etsy Vendor: Feelz Like Home

Note: I love buying mega-$ shoes on Etsy, pre-loved (or even vintage), because I can try out a venerable brand (one that's supposed to produce long-lived goods) at a fraction of the cost. Ain't no way I'm spending 600 bucks on a pair of bow flats. (That's how much they sell for here...) I mean, I may not even find a meaningful way to include them in my wardrobe. But at 50 bucks (for a very gently used version), I can experiment with little repercussion.

Having said this, these shoes may not fit me in the end. The label indicates that the shoe is narrow and, though my foot measures a scant 0.2" wider than the shoeprint - and I strongly suspect the soft leather will relent - I might be wrong. Note: The Ferragamos I bought about 18 months ago, also via Etsy, have the exact same width measurement and those shoes do fit. I don't often wear those, however, because the heel is just too high for walking to work.

Finally, since I seem to be on a ballet pink kick, I purchased some more pretty buttons:

Etsy Vendor: Add Vintage

Sure, I hate making clothing with buttonholes, but you can never have too many pretty vintage buttons, right?

So, North Americans compatriots (stuck in a polar vortex): How are you managing not to kill yourselves over the misery of this weather? Are you shopping? Eating? Traveling? All of the above? Are you just made of grit and fortitude? I wanna know!

* To clarify, shopping to mood alter is not stupid shopping. I continue to subscribe to the belief that one should aim to buy the meaningful things. For me, those are craft building-blocks, things that are sustainable or edible (ahem) or things that enrich one's ability to live in the world (books). And lingerie is always fair game.

Siesta - Once Removed

You know that fabric siesta I'm on? Um, it's on a siesta.

I appear to have purchased a bunch of new fabrics but, I assure you, they have already been tagged for new projects.

To wit:

3 yards of Stretch Twill in Navy - Brushed on one side

1.75 yards of Rayon Jersey in Dark Salmon (like a cerise)

This wool suiting in taupe, with 10% stretch, is gone now - so the photo was removed from the webside (hence this tiny little image)... I bought 3 yards.

I got these at Fabrications Online, that vendor I learned about from Andrea and Gail, and I have to say I am even more impressed after this shopping experience than I was the last time I purchased from Fabrications. As you know, I'm not a discount fabric shopper. These fabrics are very well-priced for their quality. At regular price, the wool suiting was $18.00/yard. (Locally, or via other online vendors, I'd pay more like 25 bucks/yard for the same fabric.) The rayon jersey was $12.00/yard, regular price (that's the going amount) and the stretch twill was also $12.00/yard , regular price. I would pay, locally, $14.00/yard for the twill.

Why didn't I buy local? Well, the last 2 times I have bought local suiting fabric in TO, I've been disappointed in the way it responded to tailoring. I can buy excellent product locally, but it will cost me upwards of $35 bucks a yard, and I'm trying to keep things less pricey than that. Rayon jersey is hit and miss in our garment district. I can find it, but not necessarily in a solid colour that I like having the quality I expect. And the twill, which I can find here, was frankly an impulse purchase. I just added it into the batch, in the hopes that it will be a new bottom-weight fabric I can use in the future. Next time I shop local, I'll be sourcing the 10% stretch, bottom-weight fabrics that work in lieu of denim. (That's my new thing.)

Before buying, I called the shop because I was concerned about ensuring the degree of stretch in the pants fabrics - specifically the suiting (as I will also make a jacket from it). While chatting I learned about the rayons, about coding on the website (so that I can navigate it better going forward), about various other fabrics that might be of interest... I was blown away by the client service.

But what makes this an even nicer experience, above and beyond good fabric and good service, is that the shipping is a flat 20 bucks to Canada, by USPS, no matter the size of the order or its dollar amount. Oh - and you can order in fractions of yards so you're not committed to, 2 yards, let's say, if you only need 1.25 yards. That goes a long way to keep the price in check...

The wool is slated for the next attempt at the Janet Jacket. If it works, I'll use the extra to make a skirt or pants to complete a spring suit. The rayon is to make my next attempt at the Issy Top. I bought 1.75 yards as this top takes about 1.5 yards - I only have 1 yard cuts of rayon jersey in my stash right now so buying more was necessary. And the twill is a bottom-weight fabric to make another pair of Claudia pants, the most recent Bengaline version being entirely nasty in both size and feel. Since I already have a "denim" pair (albeit rayon denim), and my other denim has no stretch, I need a new fabric with which to experiment.

I did try to shop my stash before I purchased. I didn't have what was required to continue working with my most recent patterns - those I spent effort "perfecting" fit-wise, or continue to spend time improving.

Really, though, after this next batch of new sewn items, I'm going to have to work with some pre-purchased fabrics in the stash. They have projects attached to them too, after all...

So, today's questions: What do you think of my latest fabrics? Have you shopped Fabrications online (or in store) and, if yes, what was your experience? How much are you willing to pay for online shipping of fabric - regardless of where you live? What are the fabrics you find hardest to source (either online or in shop)? Let's talk!

Delivery Mode

The first Empreinte bra to catch my eye was this one:

Empreinte Roxane

I tried to buy it a few times, via a few different European vendors, but I couldn't have it shipped. The Empreinte people seem to have a draconian predisposition to limit free-trade. Oh, you can get these bras in North America - if you're prepared to spend about 50 per cent more than our Euro sisters do. You just can't get them in the same currency.

The fact that they're expensive, even when on sale in the EU, is a big issue. Most Canadian women -  if they can find them - cannot afford to purchase them from a bricks and mortar store.

I've asked a variety of UK vendors why they can't ship to Canada. Nobody's given me an answer, though I'm sure it's that Empreinte doesn't need to devalue the brand if everyone on this side of the pond is forced to buy from vendors on this side of the pond.

And really, there's a part of me that gets that. I make clothing. I've made bras. I know how expensive it is to find beautiful materials and to construct something that requires perfect fit. Seriously, NASA could learn a thing or two from Empreinte. I'm sure its R&D rivals that of big Pharma.

But Empreinte is sorely mistaken if it thinks everyone to the left of the Atlantic is going to pay a zillion dollars more, just cuz.  (Note: I've bought 2 Empreinte sets in a boutique in TO and spent 300 bucks on each. I consider that adequate support of my local economy in this fiscal year, and respectful of a fine brand.)

I have a UK friend who's willing to receive the goods and then send them on to me. That cuts the price in half, even with the additional shipping charge, especially if I can find a set on sale. Then, for the die-hards among us, there's eBay*. You know, I'm not big into eBay but it does have its place. And, I'm learning more and more, for lingerie, it can be extremely cost-effective. To wit, I finally found a Roxane (long since sold out in every store) on eBay. With shipping, this $200.00 bra (in a Canadian boutique) the cost is $55.00. And it's returnable if it doesn't fit.

So, today's questions are these: Do you have the Roxane and, if so, what do you think? Are you insulted by the extra cost that certain companies throw at certain geographic regions (one assumes the same thing is happening in other places)? Have you bought bras on eBay and, if yes, what was your experience? Let's talk.

*In my experience, the most challenging element of shopping for lingerie on eBay is that it's hard to find the matching undies from the same vendor (or even a different vendor, which would increase the shipping). So, if I'm going to buy on eBay I need to know where matching undies can be purchased (sometimes from an online bra boutique - if the bra is current -  or from a bricks and mortar store). If I can't find the undies and the bra's not black or beige, it's an unfortunate no-go for me. On the flip side, eBay can be a great place to find (at a great price) an extra pair of undies to match a bra you may already have.

La Cage Aux Folles

I'm totally crazy. Not sort of. Not a little bit. Like 110 per cent, completely loopy crazy.

To wit: I managed to buy 7.5 yards of Tencel fabric online today:

 

Dark Grey

Sunny Yellow

Slate Blue - my go-to neutral

 

Yes, the girl who's only bought fabric online twice and both times vowed never again, has apparently done it again. 

But I have a rationale.

Y'all remember my last online fabric purchase moment. It convinced me to just say no. But my memory is short. And the fabric I purchased then - specifically the Modal I just used for yesterday's Coppelia wrap is of exceptional quality. Honestly, I'm wearing that wrap today - which everyone seems to love, btw, despite my showing off all the fit flaws - and I am nuts about the fabric.

So I went back to fabric.com to get some more. It occurred that I might just buy 3 yards in any and every colour and be done with it. No luck. Instead, I found Tencel - a very nice knit when you get the good stuff. Flattering and drapey, but not quite as firm as the Modal. It's less close-fitting, "fitness wear" than the Modal - not that the Modal looks exercise-y. 

 

(Hilarious sidebar: The reason I couldn't find my modal at Fabric.com is cuz I originally bought it at Fabric Mart. There is some modal left there. Though only in one colour (acquamarine). BTW, this fabric is a bitch to find. If you find it, and you like the colour, buy in bulk.)

A propos of that (and you can trust me): When you want good jersey, it's nowhere to be found. And, for what it's worth, just about any time is when you want a good jersey. So it pays to think ahead.

Ahem, but then there's the issue of shipping "internationally"... Last time it took weeks and way too much time to shepherd 4 yards of fabric from point A to point B. And the shipping cost was high ($30.00).

I am seriously hopeful that fabric.com supplies good Tencel, because I've just bought 7.5 yards of it in 3 colours. Um, shipping, you ask: $15.95. For 7.5 yards. Now, peeps, that's my kind of delivery charge.

On the topic of quantity: My new guideline (strangely - it's exactly what Tasia's talking about today) is 3 yards. Unless I've got a project in mind - and it'll take more than 3 yards - or it's super pricey, or kind of crazy (yellow tencel, for example) I'm going with 3. That way, I'll have enough for a muslin and a "real" garment in the same fabric. Or for a dress. Or if I make a mistake. Or enough to give away.

 

And, thought I, if I'm going to pay a crazy shipping fee, I might as well get the max fabric it will support. This philosophy kind of let me down, happily, since the shipping was way less expensive - despite volume - than I expected it would be. And it's USPS, my preferred shipping method. Sure, who knows if I'll be charged customs fees. But that's a risk I've got to take, now and again.

 

I just don't know what to do about the Modal now that I've bought Tencel to the tune of 7.5 yards.  Fabric Mart shipping costs are a) much higher and b) unknowable until you buy and they cut and package. I've been told they can get 3 yards into a mailer, which will be under 40 bucks. I have to assume it will be about $20.00. The colour's not my first choice, but it will flatter me and I FREAKIN' love the hand of this stuff. And the price of the fabric, if not the shipping, is very reasonable.

 

I sense I'm talking myself into it... 

 

Thoughts? 

Lingerie Shop Along: The End.

Guess it’s time to close the loop on the online lingerie purchase disaster of 2012. It doesn’t end well, but I’m officially done. 

The Fantasie Smoothing Balconette bra arrived – it’s the right model – but the size is off. Based on the horrifying bigness of the full-cup version (see post linked to in the para above), I opted to order the balconette version (purchased many times in the past) one size smaller in the cup, and one size smaller in the band, than that which I usually wear.

 

Though that's worked before, this one is too small, if just barely. What I mean is that it fits in the cup but the back is leaning towards too tight and it pushes the flesh up under my arms and at the side of the bra. To qualify – the underwire fits and the cups fit, there’s just not quite enough corollary fabric at the side band. It will probably stretch and be just fine. Or maybe it won't. I don't care.

 

I’d cry from frustration if this weren’t sort of funny.

 

I’m not returning it. I’ve already spent twice the amount the bra cost on shipping alone (6 returns?!). At least now I know for sure what size to order in this bra should that occasion ever recur. Note to self: Write it the fuck down. Along with the model number (vis a vis this wise comment).

 

I’m changing gears. Next time I order bras – when discretionary spending is back on the table - it will be to test for a new basic. (Pls. recall that I intend to write about the process, it just hasn’t fully come together.)

Point is, I had a hideous online shopping experience but I'm happy to move on. I mean, it's the only one that's ever fit that description. I won't let it deter me in the future.

Some Things I've Bought For Myself

You know how this fall positioned itself as the optimal platform for my great online spendathon. Caught in the depths of illness, the only thing I could do, it seemed, was to cruise the internet for cool things. It was a useful exercise given that Xmas was on its way.

I practiced that time-worn method: One thing for you, two things for me and, gotta say, I don't regret any of my splurges.

Most of my self-shopping was accomplished via Etsy, where I found the following:

Adorable poster from Loose Petals

I bought a couple of these posters in a couple of different sizes for between 20 - 35 bucks each. They arrived promptly and well-packaged and they're printed on the loveliest, textured paper. Let me say that these are utterly cheerful and I can't wait to hang them.

Vintage Knitting Mag from Libromancer

Oh, how I love this Vogue Knitting mag from Fall/Winter 1968. You may be thinking: Hey, Kristin. Didn't you say that bulky knits don't suit you? Well, peeps, these are not thick in the modern sense. The styles are very structured, just beautiful!, and so sleekly modern. I cannot wait to make something from this pattern mag.

Vintage Garnet Cocktail Ring from Ivy Cottage

OK, not the best pic, but this piece is delightful. I don't wear much red (though this has a very claret kind of vibe) but it perches brightly on my finger with the kind of heft I require to suit my large hands and fingers. It's obviously seen some special occasions and it's very well-made.

Organic, culinary-grade lavender from Lizzy Lane Farm

I spent a lot of time inhaling bowls of steam water with essential oils and lavender flowers (see above). What I didn't have at my access was food-grade lavender. And you know how I love a lavender infused tea or sable biscuit. I also had the idea that I'd make some new eye pillows for yoga (to give away as gifts) but my sister - who made my original eye pillow, which has been well-loved for so many years - offered to make me another. And then, when I said: Yes, please, I was sure to ask her to make one for Hilary too. :-) My new eye pillow is fabulous, by the way! Thanks Allison!

These were purchased outside of the kingdom of Etsy:

Ubiquitous Poster from Super Rural

I'm reluctant to share this one because it's been so popular for so long that I a) don't want to give anyone else any bright ideas and b) don't want to be one of those peeps who undercuts the fab by making it that much more ubiquitous. But finally I said what the fuck. This poster is pure pink, which I love (again, really cheerful), and it totally matches the tone on my walls. I've never seen a happening interior, containing this poster, that doesn't suit my style. It just makes me smile.

Hunter Wellies from Zappos - bought on (very good) sale and shipped for free to my parents in America

Y'all know how I've been trying to make friends with the rain - what with its increasing omnipresence in TO. I didn't know if these wellies would be a failure purchase but it didn't much matter. They're entirely returnable (via my parents to whom they were originally shipped since Zappos doesn't mail to Canada. Don't get me started on that.) I read that they fit big so I sized down and I'm really glad I did. I'm usually a Euro 39 or 8.5 US but I ordered the women's 8 and the fit's spot on. Note: I went to the Hunter site to see the exact dimensions of the shoes cuz Zappos had less than useless info and the chat feature yielded little additional help. An internet person basically corroborated that he didn't have any useful sizing feedback. Note: I didn't order from this site for its fab client service. I ordered for the price. The shoes are actually really comfortable, if slightly on the heavy side, and they look terrific with jeans and pants. I understand that they're entirely waterproof but only time will tell. Can't say how much less miserable I'll be the next time I have to walk in the rain.

Starting to see a theme? Things that look good, sparkle, smell terrific, encourage freedom of movement or my creativity - all of these were on my list.

Let me say I am so pleased with each item - and each one cost under 100 bucks (or much less).

I'd be lying if I implied I haven't bought myself some more goodies, just to express joy at being alive me. I've got a new, cute little stash of vintage buttons I hope to use on some sewn or knitted garments sometime soon. And don't forget the recently-purchased fondue pot (vessel of that which tastes fantastic).

Alas, the fur coat (I swear a pic is forthcoming) and the new Browns boots kind of threw me over the edge, financially, so self-gifting is on hiatus until future notice. Thank goodness I have all of these new treats to keep me warm and dry and cheery while I build up my discretionary resources again.

Today's questions: Whatcha think of these gifts to myself? Which do you like best? Have you ever gone on a spree when recovering from illness? Did you enjoy the spoils? Was it sad when you had to stop spending (cuz you'd got yourself on a roll)? Do tell!

Not Making This A Habu

Have you read Linda's blog? I only just discovered it and, so far, I seem to be very impressionable, as far as it's concerned. For instance, Linda recently wrote about this chic (read: very cool, NYC-meets-Japanese, not inexpensive) yarn boutique, Habu Textiles. Of course, I was intrigued. Then I checked out the link (suggestion: just don't click). And now I own these:

These safety pins don't have the "collar" that catches yarn when you use them as either stitch markers or holders for wrapped yarn when doing Japanese short rows.

This shawl pin should work nicely to affix the Sisika Scarf. It's about 2 inches long. Very light.

Yeah, some more variegated yarn. I guess I'm going through some kind of phase...

Here's what you need to know:

• The parcel arrived rather quickly and well-packaged.

• The shawl pin, while lovely, cost way too much money for what it is - essentially a safety pin. I don't care if it is light and sleek. Really, it shouldn't have cost more than 9 bucks, IMO.

• The yarn - and I wish I'd known this before ordering cuz it sure isn't clearly (or otherwise, as far as I can tell) indicated on the website - is actually Malabrigo. Um, practically everything they sell is "Habu brand and made". How is it that I managed to get the only thing they don't make? I could have bought Malabrigo in 5 shops within 5 kilometers of where I live. I didn't need to source it from hipster-expensive-land USA?! Look, I've been wanting to try Malabrigo, as it happens. Everyone's always on about how terrific it is. But getting it like this seems vaguely disappointing. 

• The yarn does not look variegated on the website. I did call the shop to find out if it was variegated (other yarns in the series are) and I was told yes, but only extremely mildly. Turns out that everyone's interpretation of extremely mild is extremely different. I think this stuff is crazily variegated. So much so that the old me - she of 2 weeks ago - would have freaked out and resold this on Ravelry. The new me is all: I use variegated yarn and I'm down with it as long as it looks cool and intentional as opposed to, say, natural.

• Ain't no way this yarn is treated. It's pure merino and it feels much less soft and drapey, at least prior-to-washing and on the skein, than any superwash I've ever bought. This is yet another thing I'm going to have to develop an appreciation for. Mind you, I suspect it will actually hold its freakin' shape. And if I choose the right project, it could work out very well. (Intriguingly - and I'll tell you soon about some cashmere that I bought in early fall - untreated cashmere is about 8 zillion times softer and more luscious than merino any day, she says with practically no experience of either.)

• Habu is happy to offer you a 5% discount on all regular-priced yarn BUT, if you order anything else with the yarn order (and ask me how I know) the yarn discount is rescinded. What the fuck? When's the last time you were penalized for spending more??

On balance, gotta say this shop isn't going to be on my regular go-to list of yarn vendors. I may well order from there again, if I actually find a Habu-made yarn that I desperately want, or if I need some kind of specialized product (like the safety pins) that are hard to find elsewhere, but I'm going to exhaust all other options first. The service I received was not bad. The product I purchased is not inferior. But I really didn't get the experience I signed up for.

Why Not Go For Both?

You know how people say they're either shoe people or bag people? Well, I'm really in neither camp. Both serve a purpose, and I like what I wear to be beautifully-made, stylish and in good condition. But it's not like I can't pass a bag store without adding to my collection.

However, recently I've noticed that I need to replace some things. My shoe collection is looking pretty wan. My boot collection is awesome, but sometimes a girl needs shoes. Furthermore, the last bag I bought was this one, exactly 3 years ago. (BTW, the pics in that link don't show that bag off to good advantage. It's not shiny.) That bag, furthermore, turned into the biggest it thing on the planet. I can't walk down the street without seeing someone carrying the Olivia sac. It's getting old. Well, actually the bag is so well-made that it's still perfect after 3 years of near constant wear. But that doesn't mean I don't need to update and refresh.

Gotta say, despite visiting a variety of stores, and considering what I was looking for next on the bag and shoe fronts, the place I ended up was Etsy. And the experience was very good.

To wit, the "new" shoes:

Salvatore Ferragamos from Ramenzombie (based in San Francisco)

Sure, these are vintage. I can't place the era, maybe 70s or 80s? Any experts, please advise. I have wanted a pair since I turned 40, an age when a woman should have a pair of Ferragamos, IMO. Of course, I don't have 500 bucks to spend on new shoes.

So I took a chance on these. They cost $40.00 and I negotiated the shipping down from $16.00 to $7.00.

These shoes are GORGEOUS and they fit perfectly. (I measured my foot, natch, to ensure the chances would be good. I figured I could always consign them if they didn't.)

However, two things less-than-impressed me (though not enough to make me avoid this vendor in the future): Said vendor shipped them in a soft envelope?! (Others have left feedback that her shipping methods leave something to be desired. But just as many say the items were packaged perfectly. Maybe she has a co-worker that's crappy at packaging?). More annoying - and I didn't ask to see a photo of the bottom of the shoes, so I'm to blame - the practically unworn, leather soles are crapped up with red sharpie writing (indicating price, I'm sure the vendor purchased them this way). Note: I always ask to see the soles of shoes if they're not shown. I mean, that's key. But I lost my train of thought. I was looking at too many shoes. And I think I mistook these for another pair.

If I'd seen the soles, would I have bought the shoes? Maybe not. But, other than the sharpie, they are in almost-new condition, the uppers are perfection, and I might be able to manage removing the marker. Live and learn. Great news is that there is a good supply of Ferragamo on Etsy. So I'll have another crack at this.

The second recent Etsy purchase was this baby:

Baby Ballet from Opelle Creative (based in Toronto)

Let me tell you, it's all that and a bag of chips. I got nothin' bad to say about this experience. I first ordered a swatch card. It took a long time to arrive, but it gave me an excellent sense of the quality and colour of the leather. I chose the colour "lilac" a grey with a mauve undertone. Goes so well with everything. The vendor was top-of-the-line. And I find it hilarious that, after all the hunting I did online (I was initially looking for a high-end vintage bag or a bag made by a small niche vendor - and I searched far and wide), I ordered from a bag-maker who lives and works 8 minutes from house, by bike. (I shopped global and local at the same time!)

Certainly, a thrilling part of this experience was not having to pay for shipping. Amy delivers within the general Toronto area for free.

This bag is beautifully constructed. It looks small but it fits lots. The leather is soft and supple (like buttah) but also strong and thick. That weird tassel thing detaches, happily. And it's got another strap that's adjustable and removable so that you can easily wear it over your shoulder or cross-wise. The strap is very soft on your shoulder, comfortable, and it doesn't slip.

And I really don't think I'm going to see it coming and going.

It wasn't cheap - but it wasn't expensive based on its quality. For starters, when I ordered the swatch card (that cost 5 bucks all in), Amy sent me a 10% coupon for my next purchase. As this bag costs $268.00, fyi there's a larger version for $324.00, I saved $27.00 that way (basically a bit less than the tax I was charged, given that my item was Canadian-sold and bought). It was well-packaged. The shipping ain't cheap outside of Canada (up to 30 bucks), but you're getting a handmade and useable piece of art. And I got another 10% off coupon with this order. Way to entice me. I love to save as much as I love to spend.

So whatcha think? Good purchasing? Have you tried these vendors? Let's talk

The Trials of Online Shopping (Which Mimic Those of Regular Shopping)

Unfortunately, Freya is phasing out the Nieve colourway (it's at the end of its season, hence the sales), though the company also makes the Edina colourway (not as appealing to me). I'm confident that Freya will be coming out with something new and long line to replace the Nieve. Now I have to decide whether to a) keep it in the slighly tight size I purchased originally (unlikely), b) return it for the Edina (unlikely) or c) replace it with this:

Freya Nina

Y'all know how I LOVE animal print. I have a Freya from years ago (cannot remember the style, long gone now) made of a jewel blue and hot pink animal print. Lord, I love that bra but it's too big in the back so it doesn't get a lot of wear. The string of the matching thong undies is actually made of pink velvet and the back of the thong has an embroidered hot pink heart that's larger than the size of a quarter! Now, that set was surprisingly practical. It had a flat profile so it could be worn under most anything. I wish I could find a stock photo of it.

The Nina, pictured above, is an unpadded (yay) plunge. I love that the straps continue the animal print pattern. And that floral decollete is so pretty, sexy - and weird.

I say the best place to go crazy with fashion is the under layer. Seriously, who's gonna know if you've gone nutty with florals and animal prints? (Of course, one's bras have to fit and be invisible under the shirt she happens to be wearing that day, but you know what I mean. Oh, and you know of my fixation with matching undies to bras. Unless you have style coming out the yin yang and the shape of a twenty-something, mismatched can look so unintentional - so unflattering.)

What do you think? Do you like the Nina? Do you prefer it to the Nieve? Do you enjoy a good plunge bra? Do you wear crazy patterned lingerie? Do you think I'm autocratic about the matching sets? Let's talk.

Quick Note on Long Line and A Reconsideration

Hey peeps: Just back from Ottawa (which was so warm, btw, I didn't need gloves?! No skating for us...). I did receive my Figleaves package, the Freya Nieve long line and boy short undies and I must share a quick review.

For starters, the bra does fit small. Not seriously small, like that Curvy Kate Criss Cross bra, but you will probably want to go a cup size up from your norm. The construction is very kind to a bust that is full on top. It's quite low cut, almost demi as opposed to balconette, and the effect is full-on renaissance wench. The undies, on the other hand, are totally true to size and extremely flattering (as I find most Freya underwear to be).

I am happy to say that it's a rather short long line bra, so it doesn't cut into the abdomen or visually shorten an already short torso. There's only about an inch or inch and a half of "line" below the under wire.

The fabric is GORGEOUS. It's the most beautiful floral (doesn't actually look much like the photo), totally Liberty-print - but not in a twee way. Let's face it, it's hard to be twee when your tits are heaving.

On account of the low-cutness, I can't say it's the most supportive bra ever, but things are very secure from below the chest. The combo of underwire and construction (intriguingly, there is NO boning) are quite effective. It would be great, for example, peeking out from beneath a classic white button down. However, it's not a t shirt bra. There's too much embellishment, the cut is quite low, and the padding is quite observable to my eye.

On the topic of padding: There will be no nipple-shows (not that I care about that, particularly), but I think it's an utter stupidity. That's the only thing about this bra I can criticize. I understand that it's part of the design. It contributes to a very structured, very round, bust shape (hence the wench-look), but I don't appreciate the addition of any volume.

In short, this bra is an observably modern riff on an old-school style. I like it a lot and, while I debate its day-to-day practicality, it will definitely have place in my wardrobe. In truth, I prefer the flat top / pointed silhouette of the vintage long lines - I particularly love their supportiveness, but they are not widely appealing (nor are they any more flattering to the majority of breast shapes than the modern, sphere shape bras). I cannot wait for Freya to come out with a long line that is unpadded. Till then, I haven't got much negative to say about this one.

And, while I'm waxing on at length, I have to admit that I remeasured my under bust and it's actually more like 30.5 or 31 inches, not the 32 I have led you all to believe. Why is this relevant? Well, it casts some aspersions on my theory that one should wear (approximately) the same size band and one's under bust measurement in light of modern, textile improvements and construction methods. So, while I've been espousing that my (purported) 32 inch under bust is happily contained within a 32 inch band, I've actually got about an inch to an inch and a half of ease I haven't been accounting for.

How can I have made this stupid mistake? I mean, I take measurements all the time. Well, I've generally worn a bra when I measure - which is recommended - but I think the wires and under bands of the bra I've been using for this purpose have actually been adding bulk. My point - try taking the measurement both ways and see if you get different results.

I do have some 30 bands (though I'm a bit out of that range at the moment) so it's not like, case by case, a band and under bust size can't correlate exactly. But I have to rethink things. Any way you slice it, I am totally not - as a general rule - in favour of wearing a band that is more than 2 inches larger than your under bust measurement. But I'm reconsidering that those of you who describe the need for a +2 band / under bust correlation are likely onto something and not simply inculturated to wear a band that "should" be tighter. I'll certainly return to this topic when I have more perspective.

More Bra Stories

So, the Curvy Kate Criss Cross (Lord, that alliteration is irritating) arrived in the bigger size and it fits fabulously. It's amazing what a difference a cup size makes. Note: The cup size up feels much looser in the back as well, strangely. Like too loose. I actually put it on the second hook first wear. So not my preference. Oh well. Not sending it back again or all of the sale savings will have been lost in return shipping charges. (I wonder if the first bra I tried was anomalously small in the back cuz this one is so much looser.)

I must be on a kick because I couldn't stop myself from ordering the Freya Nieve Long Line Bra:

It matches these cute undies:


I've been wanting this thing for a long while but I've held off because the cups are lightly padded. I don't do padding. I don't know what voluptuous woman does, frankly, but there must be a bunch of them out there, since there are so many padded large-cup bras, it's crazy.

Here's why I finally took the plunge:

• The vertical cup construction intrigues me. I want to study it.
• The padding is apparently almost inconsequential, according to various reviews I've read - all of which were remarkably positive.
  
• It's long line. You know of my obsession.
• It's comes in 30 and 32 back sizes so those of us who don't have 34 inch plus rib cages can still get in on the action.
• It's pretty!
• I am obvious need of more lingerie in my wardrobe.

10 points if you can tell me which one of the previous bullets is not true :-)

In truth, I'm concerned it's going to be too small a) cuz I read it fits small after buying it (Note: I did look high and low for evidence of this before purchase but couldn't find any then, natch) b) cuz the last bra I bought was so I'm a bit flippy and c) padded bras tend to fit small. I wonder if the vertical seams in the cup will make things tighter or looser than a regular 3-piece cup construction (having diagonal seams). Could I have ordered 2 of this bra in different sizes when I was buying? Yes, but I decided to live on the edge. Again.

I'm also a bit concerned that the bra is not going to flatter if it's too long in the line and it meets up with my flabodmen (ha! I just made that up!). It looks to stop before the waist curve on the model, but hell she's a model - with a very long waist as you can see.

I somehow managed to score this for 20% off - simply because I looked for a promo code online and it worked. I ALWAYS look for promo codes when online shopping. It's amazing how often they pay off.

The full set, including shipping, was $66.00 CDN. Incredibly reasonable, IMO. I only hope it fits and looks good. I've been playing fast and loose with the online lingerie choices lately - trying new brands or entirely new styles with unusual (to me) construction methods. It's a worthy adventure - but I have to remember not be irritable if the items don't fit when they arrive. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

Updated: Remind Me Not To Do This Again...

OK, my fabric from Fabric Mart has arrived, and I have to say, the whole experience was a huge pain in the ass. The company has just changed its international shipping policy (yes, Canada is considered to be international, although Pennsylvania - shipping hub - is closer to Toronto than, say, half of the continental US) and, new courier firm, FedEx won't actually leave parcels at a receiver's door - even if a) the vendor and then b) the receiver indicate this preference.

I spent a good, stressful, 30 minutes on the phone with both Fabric Mart and FedEx to try to resolve this. Fabric Mart, apparently, lobbied unsuccessfully with FedEx on my behalf. In the end, I convinced the shipping dept. to leave the parcel on my porch "as long as the courier felt comfortable with the security of the environment". The alternative would have been to return the fabric as I'm not hauling ass for an hour by public transit to pick up a parcel. Fabric Mart agreed that this wouldn't be reasonable and agreed to refund my money for returned fabric - though not for the $30.00 of shipping (half of the total charge for 4.5 yards of fabric).

Every fucking time I order fabric online (twice now) or other stuff that arrives from America via courier (too many times to count), I have such a dicey experience. Somehow things never implode when I order from the UK.

Yes, I've got an axe to grind. I shouldn't have to order things to my American parents for re-post to me (USPS creates fewer difficulties). I shouldn't have to pay $30.00 for the privilege of crappy service. I blame Fabric Mart as much as FedEx. If they cared about my regular business, they wouldn't be charging me almost 400% more in shipping than they do someone who lives 2 hours drive away from me (on the other side of the Canada-US border). And they wouldn't expect me to manage the stupidity of bad courier service. Indeed, they wouldn't be using bad courier service.

In brief defense of Fabric Mart, they have recently changed their shipping method because the post office in the region is closing. And they were assured, so they told me, that FedEx wouldn't erect barriers to simple delivery. Of course, they should have beta tested that on someone other than me, no? They did say, were I to order from them again, that I could indicate a preference for USPS shipping and they'd find a way to make it happen. I wonder if they're advertising that to others, or if they'll change their newly minted FedEx arrangement in light of what they've just discovered about FedEx.

The sad thing about this situation is that the fabric I received is good. The modal is actually of excellent quality and the colour is great. It came with matched thread (for extra $). And the lavender sweater knit, while synthetic to the touch, does not look it. It's got lovely drape and hand.

But you know what they say: Challenging fabric-buying experience, good sewing experience. Or is that something I made up?

Update to respond to Kay's comment about shopping local: Trust me, I shop local more often than I order online re: every kind of item except for RTW lingerie. If I can buy a) Canadian-made products and/or b) anything from local shops I will every time - unless the prices are sincerely out of control (as is the case with RTW lingerie). When the costs are outrageous, I have to decide how to spend my money and, sometimes I will buy online. Note: Vis a vis local lingerie - I bought at bricks and mortar shops for 10 years before I got sick of the mark up. So I did my time supporting that local import, IMO.

Now, on the topic of buying fabric locally - except for 2 occasions (the latest from Fabric Mart, documented yesterday) - I have done this every time. I am frequently dismayed by the lack of good knits, specifically sweater options, in luxe textiles. I've been known to spend 30 bucks a yard on fabric at a local shop, simply to support my continued ability to purchase locally in the future.

This summer, the last large-scale Canadian fabric store (FabricLand) closed shop at the only central location they had remaining (at Yonge and Bloor), despite the fact that I spent hundreds of dollars a year there while it was around. Now there are no full-service options left that I can get to with any convenience - I don't have a car and I don't hoof it to the middle of nowhere - I live downtown for a reason.

I support King Textiles, World Sew and numerous other small shops in the garment district on a regular basis. Sometimes, I want something that I can't find in TO so I go off-road. I'm not apologizing for it. I very strongly believe in shopping locally. I also believe in getting what I want.

PS: I have routinely spoken with shop-keepers of all ilks about stocking my preferred items. Sometimes they're game - and I keep on with them. Other times they decline for a variety of economic or logistical reasons, in which case I look elsewhere. Thanks for raising this question, Kay.