Thursday, June 20, 2013

In Which I Rant Maximally About Minimizers

Sandy left a really interesting comment on yesterday's post, and I feel compelled to address it.

For starters, here's what she said about the Wacoal Retro Chic Full Cup Bra:

Ugly? It's not real pretty, but it's better (IMHO) than some of the two-tone and animal-print things I've seen. (I buy beige so it doesn't show through my clothes, anyway.) Does it fit, is an infinitely more important question. It looks like it would fit me the way a "minimizer" does, which would be good.

It goes without saying that I respect every woman's choice to wear whatever style of bra she prefers and it's not for me to judge that preference. No doubt Sandy is a gorgeous woman and I totally appreciate her feedback.

Nonetheless, the part about this comment that calls to me is that wherein she speculates, with optimism, that the bra might fit as a minimizer does. "Minimizer" bras are divisive. Some women seek them out. Others - like me - have a different perspective.

To clarify, minimizer bras are those marketed to minimize the shape of one's breasts. They are often one-piece cups made of satiny, very firm material (no stretch) and have wide wires, wide straps and wide bands. They're pretty-well always ugly, as far as I'm concerned. But never mind my aesthetic perspective, they're also bad for breast tissue and they often fit badly too. Why?
  • Minimizer bras are designed to flatten breasts, as the (erroneous) mechanism by which they are meant to provide the illusion of smaller breasts - hence the firm fabric and lack of seams.
  • Minimizer bras generally have wide wires because their aim is compression. If you have a narrow root, this isn't going to be comfortable. 
  • They're also designed with wider back sizes in mind, on the basis that big boobs are the result of a big frame.
  • The manufacturers seem to have a mega-hate on for women, cuz every one of these bras (I've ever seen) is matronly, high cut and cheap-looking.
Furthermore, given that most women who wear them wear their bras too small vis a vis cup volume (much as most women wearing any bra are wearing the wrong size, not to put to fine a point on it),  flattened breast tissue is pushed towards a midline wherein the gore doesn't have a chance of tacking. So the bra ends up hovering over flattened breasts. Egad.

I completely understand how Sandy might assume that the Retro Chic is a minimizer because it's a) beige and b) ugly! But allow me to clarify: the bra is NOT a minimizer. Yeah, it's high cut with a wide band. But the wires aren't overly wide and the lower bust is actually enhanced by the cut of the cup. It does, however, control movement, cleavage and that omnipresent modern, spherical-look in the upper bust.

The truth is that a wide variety of bras - sporting a wide variety of constructions - "minimize" the appearance of breasts because they lift, support and sheath them optimally.

The word minimize in that last sentence is in quotes because, in fact, these bras aren't minimizing by flattening. They're actually maximizing the lovely shape of a woman's breasts with good construction and fit.

No question, a good bra that doesn't fit is going to look bad - if not at first, definitely by the end of the day. If it's too small in the cups, it's going to look that much worse. But let's assume the wearer of the minimizer is wearing the correct size. IMO, flattened breasts don't flatter anyone. They simply look really wide - which may minimize the projection of the boobs but also maximizes the apparent width of the torso. So, your boobs may not project as much but you'll look kind of fat. The theory is that on a fleshy torso, this may not be tremendously observable (although I dispute this). On a narrow torso it's super observable. Way to add 10 lbs.

Y'all know I go shopping for bras with lots of peeps. Many of those with breasts on the large end of the spectrum are looking for bras to curtail their size. Invariably, when they find a bra in the right size, with a firm band that actually lifts the weight of their breasts, they are delighted by a projectile shape. To a one, each of these women has uttered - with delight - that her breasts look fantastic and  "so much less big". I've never found anyone who wants to make her breasts look smaller when they look terrific (in a great-fitting, gorgeous bra) at whatever size they happen to be.

I'm truly sorry if this post comes across as strident. I loathe the minimizer bra - the only thing I felt I could wear back in the day when first I had breasts and this golden age of bras was decades away.

I want every woman to feel gorgeous - and if you like the look of a minimizer (presuming that said minimizer actually fits in both the back and cup) then more power to you. But bras start at very small band sizes these days - and go to very high cup sizes. The chances are likely that you'll be able to find a bra (that doesn't purport to minimize) which "makes your breasts look smaller" aka the net outcome of a bra that actually fits.

At any rate, I'd love to hear your perspective: Do you think I'm off the mark? (Please don't hesitate to share your views if you do!) Do you wear or have you worn minimizers? Let's talk.

21 comments:

  1. I can't imagine why anyone would want a minimizer either, no matter how busty they are. I know this gorgeous woman, who swears that she's a 36DD--36 is highly debateable, but DD--?! Not only no, but hell effin' no! I'm pretty confident she's closer to a 34J, maybe a K (I say, as though I'm an expert--HA!). And like you said, her beautiful figure is hidden by boobs squishing out everywhere because she wears those shitty Walmart minimizers. :-( So tragic, but I'm not sure if it's rude to point out she's very clearly NOT a DD...

    Sorry, off topic there. Personally, I feel like it's your blog, so if you want to rant about minimizers, you should be able to do so. Because obviously, as far as I'm concerned, you are preaching to the choir. ;-) And honestly, as someone who is above a DD, but still not overly busty, I personally would be excited to find one of those "adds 2 cup sizes" type bras for date night, so the desire for a minimizer kind of blows my mind anyway...

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    1. That's the other thing - they do seem to be the bad choice of large-breasted women who don't realize that they need to up the cup volume.

      And I love that you're looking for ways to up the boob factor in your bras, even if you're not in the A-D range :-)

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  2. I completely agree with you regarding minimizer bras. Once in Nordstrom I conducted a slightly scientific experiment. I always tell the fitters that I want something that "Pushes them up and points them forward." This particular time, I ran up against a bra fitter who had it in her head that I needed a minimizer to make me look better. She brought one in and I tried it on. While she was out getting me a tee shirt to put on over it, I grabbed a tape measure. Here's what I found.
    My "normal Chantalle bras have these measurements:
    Shoulder to bust apex: 11 inches
    Distance between bust apexes: 7 inches

    Wearing a Natori minimizer, these same measurements were:
    Shoulder to bust apex: 12 1/2 inches
    Distance between bust apexes: 8 1/4 inches

    As you point out, it makes me look wider and saggier, but it ALSO means that the clothing that I make, which I adjust so it goes over my bustline smoothly and in a flattering manner, no longer fits me. Forget that. I'd rather keep them hoisted up and pointing forward!

    Sorry to go on so long, but you hit a nerve. Thanks for this post!

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    1. Oh, you have a great point - they do mess with clothing fit!

      I think it's quite telling that the fitter felt you needed to be contained to look better. Wow. Of course, every fitter has a bias and preference, but I think this is potentially destructive to women who don't have info about other shapes and who may be feeling uncomfortable with their shapes to begin with.

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  3. Huh. I didn't realize minimizers were still around. I thought they went extinct at the end of the last millennium. I'm not a size that I would ever consider one. But even if I was, I wouldn't want one. I'm kind of a breast lover - I think all sizes are great and worth showing off without either padding/wonder-bra-ing OR smushing/minimizing.

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    1. Oh, you are such an innocent flower :-) And I do share your attitude!

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  4. oh boy. i'm afraid to comment! I wear Wacoal minimizers. They've done wonders for my tit-screpancy. I haven't found another bra that lifts both breasts and "reduces" my larger breast so they look more like a matched set.
    The bridge & band fit appropriately and the strap placement is just right. I do have a silicone pad, but it is freaking hot and doesn't quite do the job--I use it when I'm wearing something tight. I'm not at all opposed to another manufacturer, I just haven't found one that works for me. So I've been following these bra posts with great interest

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    1. No fear! Every perspective is equally valid and wonderful. For starters, if you like your minimizers and they fit, then you've got a good solution. But I do suggest that you try some other options. Feel free to email me and we can chat.

      Not knowing your size, I can suggest the Jasmine by Panache which can accomodate 2 diff breast sizes of up to a cup size in difference, I believe. Here's my post on the bra: http://line4line.blogspot.ca/2013/05/the-bra-adventures-panache-jasmine.html. It's made in a very wide range of sizes so it's likely yours is represented.

      I'm by no means an expert on this question, but I might add this in as a question for Veronica...

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    2. You're not alone anon, I too wear Wacoal minimizers and love them. They're not frumpy, not like 50s bra looks to me :-). And it's bad enough that I have imho too much breast for comfort without having to look like it as well. Enough is enough.

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    3. Thank you so much---I appreciate the suggestion about Jasmine by Panache and especially appreciate your generosity.

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    4. But of course! You're welcome.

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  5. Minimizers sound ugly and anti-feminist.

    A friend of mine refers to the flattened breasts look as "uniboob."

    Good for you doing your jury duty. I hope the headache situation is improving.

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    1. Well, the ones I found do fit that description, but I do realize that they work for many women (as far as those women are concerned).

      I still have to write a post about the headache situation. It's coming...

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    2. Either you or your friend confuses minimizer bras with compression sport bras, which are not at all the same..

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    3. M-C - I have seen many a minimizer that flattens breasts into the uni-boob look. I think a lot depends on whether it fits the wearer. The principle of minimizer bras is compression - though not as significant a kind of compression as that in sports bras...

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  6. That's not my experience with minimizers in the UK. One of the largest sellers of ladies undergarments here has done a minimizer range for a long time and whilst the bras had wide straps and were slightly frumpy they were, a while back, one of the only options if you needed good support, without making your breasts look like torpedoes. When I wore them my breasts were truly enclosed, and supported, in a good way, with great shaping. When I ran for the bus I didn't feel that my breasts were on a separate journey all on their own. So, to me the label isn't important, but more about the fit and look and whether it suits you.

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    1. What's the range, B? I'd love to know more about it. I do agree that the minimizer provides a shape that is antithetical to the front and centre (which I prefer - though not everyone does!) but there are lots of other choices out there now that provide a less projectile shape without compression.

      Your comment intimates that you're not wearing the minimizer brand at this time? What brands do you prefer now? Why did you stop wearing the minimizers? I'm intrigued...

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    2. Marks and Spencer, a very popular high street shop are the minimiser stockists Don't quote me, but I believe over 50% of British women buy their underwear from them and I obviously fell into that category too. Their minimizers were shaped like normal bras for larger breasted ladies but weren't quite as low cut. And you're right, my younger self did buy the minimizer, but as I've aged and got less firm I've found I don't need them constrained as I used to. I now buy Freya and Fantasie, although I haven't found many bras I like so love that you discuss it in such depth in your blog. Ageing (I'm 50, just) has meant that my breasts seem to have changed quite a bit (or sizes have changed, I can't tell) and now it's such a struggle to find anything to give me a natural, supported shape . I was a 34DD but 32E and F seem to fit me better now. Like you, I'm still on the quest for the perfect bra. Thanks for sharing your journey.

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    3. We used to have M&S here in TO. SO sad they're gone. I do believe that most UK women buy their bras there. I wonder if they produced a full cup bra with sound support principles (in a wide variety of sizes including small back and large cup - which most minimizer brands don't do) and called it a minimizer for marketing purposes. One thing many agree on is that a bra that fits well often appears to make the wearer look more compact.

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  7. Well, that's interesting, I've never even heard of a minimiser.. maybe we don't have them here? Anyway, even if we did I would never ever consider wearing one.

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    1. I'm pretty sure you have them. It's just that you don't need them so you probably haven't ever noticed...

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