Sunday, June 2, 2013

The Summer Series: Five in Five, Take 4 (Finished)

I'm really glad this is over:


 Vogue 1027

Bizarrely, as I was finally finishing it off (trying it on), Scott saw it and freaked out (in a good way). He was all like: That's really nice! Apparently he thinks very highly of this colour. I don't, so much, but I have to admit it complements my blond fairness.

A few things:
  • Roni - sorry but I had a lot of trouble with this pattern and I didn't have the wherewithal to take pics of all the places on this dress I interfaced with knit fusible: the entire neckline/surplice, the armholes, the sides of the dress where I attached the pockets and the pocket bag fabric (where it attaches to the side), maybe I'll interface the hem (it's hanging right now to allow the bias drape to settle before I hem it, if I hem it). It's very easy to do and Sunni has a few great tutorials on it (go through the Sewing School link). 
  • In the end, I didn't use either the serger or coverstitch to work the armholes because my fabric was really unhappy in that area and I didn't want to tax it with anything I might have to rip out. I opted for finished garment rather than perfectly finish. Can't tell you how that irks me.
  • If everyone but me finds this pattern easy, then it must be me. Am I off my game? I feel so wretchedly bad at sewing right now. I end up having to redo everything (despite the fact that I'm paying attention). A bobbin runs out. Or I sew something together inside out. Or the shoulder seam elastic decides to eat the fabric (almost) where its seamed in. It's really no fun.
  • Mind you, recent end products are turning out to be very wearable. Is it much harder because I'm working that much more consciously (while yet I still lack experience and many skills)? I have to admit, my fit is really improving lately, especially with knits (which are so forgiving).
  • My alterations in this pattern were pretty on, gotta say. I managed to give more ballast to this dress by adding an inch to the neckline and the bottom of the front and back bodices. It works very well. Next time (and I will do this again, despite the challenges I've had - because I think those challenges were circumstantial more than anything), I will add another half an inch to the front (tapering at the sides). The front on this garment pulls up very slightly. It's wearable though.
  • Keep in mind that, even if I'd cut a size 16 in the bodice, it still would have been too small (except in the sides). And the skirt is marginally too big. So, what, I'm like an 8 in the skirt and an 18 in the bodice? (Even though I'm not entirely of one Big 4 size, unaltered, I'm not a range of 6 sizes between bust and hips.) This thing was cut for a body very different than mine. I managed to make it work and I'm proud of that.
  • One of the Pattern Review reviews I read showed a great pic of how the waistband affixes at the back waist. It's actually only attached on the topside. The back band (a double layer of fabric with wrong sides together) floats on the back body between the side seams. You can actually lift it up from the bottom. I would not have been able to figure out, from the instructions, how this works so I'm grateful to the writer for the photograph. I really find Vogue patterns (especially the knit ones) to be INCOMPREHENSIBLE. And I'm not horrid at reading and interpreting instructions. I mean, I'm not great at it, but I'm fine. All the independents write totally clear instructions that I have no issue with. It's a combo of Vogue's horrid technical drawings and its mediocre descriptions that throw me off. They seem to contradict each other.
  • In the end, as mentioned, I interfaced with fusible interfacing. (It's the kind that's cut on the bias and rolled into a tape). It was better than the fusible web I used which competed with the fabric for drape.
  • Oh, I should mention that I cut 6.5 inches out of the bottom of the skirt (on the paper pattern, prior to cutting fabric). It's still long on me and, though I'm short, my legs are not. Don't waste the fabric unnecessarily. You may end up cutting the bodice 3 times. :-) Mid-calf is almost universally dowdy (whether it works with your proportions or not). If you are over the age of 40, do not make it much than an inch shorter than the knee or it will likely age you.
The final garment for Summer Series: Five in Five is this one:

Vogue 1287 (Photo from the website)
I'll write more about this soon but, I have to say, I'm a bit concerned. This dress has relatively few proponents. I can't find many reviews and those which I have found are not overly complimentary.

Of course, everyone's problem is that the bodice is swimmingly huge. Hmmm, I wonder about that.

In truth, I can't see how my next project will be any easier than the last. And this pattern is Average (aka Vogue-speak for Advanced).

The only settling influence is my belief that my mind doesn't see "easy" and "hard". It's all a bunch of instructions to me. If I can figure out what they're saying, generally I can do it. Sure, not necessarily so well (the first few times), but with increasing skill.

Today's questions: What do you think of V1027? If you've made it, do you wear it? And V1287... Do you think I'm crazy for taking on something potentially tricky at this juncture?

31 comments:

  1. I love the colour, and I can tell it's going to drape beautifully on you! I'm glad you are happy with the final product even though it caused so much headache along the way!

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    1. Thanks G! I hope it will look nice. No one else will be wearing the colour, that's for sure! :-)

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  2. Vogue is so not playing fair with that photo of 1287. The pattern description says "very loose-fitting," the bust has 10" of ease, and there's no sign of all that fabric on the model. Never mind the busy print that helpfully obscures all the pleating detail.

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    1. That's good thinking Alexandra. I'm going to have to try to figure out final measurements with all of those pleats.

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  3. Lovely dress, Kristin!! Glad all that hard work paid off ...

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  4. I agree with Alexandra - no opinion about V1287, because I can't tell what the hell the dress looks like with that busy fabric!

    This one though - so pretty! I can see how this color would really suit you; I hope you warm up to it. I think I mentioned I bought this the other day - now I'm a bit scared of it, but also super curious to find out if it's really that hard. I'm hoping the answer is no :-)

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    1. Don't be scared. As you are small in the bust, you likely will need to go down 2 sizes (though perhaps not in the skirt?) especially if you use a 4-way rather than 2-way stretch fabric. I'm going through some kind of sewing moment, I suspect. You'll be fine. I sense the dress is cut well for your shape. BTW, the instructions still suck so read the PR reviews.

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  5. Despite the problems the dress turned out great. I love the color.

    I read Sunni's blog but I've not seen some of the posts in the Sewing School. Thanks for the link.

    I think sewing success runs in spurts. I can really be on a roll and everything goes together perfectly, fits and is a dream to wear while other times nothing works. I just came out of a 6 weeks period where either it didn't work or I was working on fitting a TNT. I'm glad to be on the other side!

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    1. I suspect this is how it goes. Easy, then hard, then easy. I'm trying not to get too wrapped up in it.

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  6. It is a beautiful colour, I agree.

    I was thinking of you this weekend, while I was struggling to perfect some ruching (near enough really won't be good enough, this time). But I think there is a little more latitude with casual clothing.

    Incidentally, the dress I'm sewing has sections where I am a Vogue 10, 14, 16 or 18. I've given up entirely on sizing and am now going by flat-pattern measurements and baste-fitting!

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    1. Thank you! Ruching is harder than it looks. I had to do it twice before I had a wearable outcome. And you can't exactly practice cuz it's all about how it goes in the moment. (Of course, experience is invaluable but you know what I mean). I think I too will have to go from flat measurements because these pattern sizes are all over the map!

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  7. I have a Christiane Celle for Calypso wrap dress in shot silk in a colour not unlike this one. We could wear them in TO and be twins! (But I would be too hot in summer because of the silk fabric . . .)

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    1. You see, this is where Modal wins! :-) (BTW, I don't know that this fabric, though it was marketed as Modal, really is Modal.) Nonetheless it's wash and dry which is very handy in the summer.

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  8. I like the color, shoulders line (so retro) and how it drapes.

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  9. Gah! My comment just got eaten.

    In short: Love the green - so of the moment! And I really like V1287. I think it has some really interesting deets, like the pockets/seaming on the skirt. Why does vogue insist on busy prints that obscure the pattern details!?!?!? So annoying.

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    1. Oh how I hate that. It really fucks with the original sentiment (and momentum). I hope that 1287 is a pleasant surprise on the construction front. But I guess I'll have to take what comes.

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  10. I think the dress is lovely. When I was growing up sewing, Vogue had the reputation of being hard and I avoided the patterns (they were usually too old for me anyway). You are not the first person to say that Vogue instructions suck. I'm beginning to think they do it on purpose to make it seem "harder" and, thus, more couture. I went out to get this pattern this weekend and couldn't find it at Joann. I really want to make it and with your and Sunni's advice, I think I could do it with some success. Thanks for sharing this lovely dress.

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    1. Interesting idea that Vogue complexifies (real words don't matter) its patterns to seem more couture. I think they'd better get with the times because it's off-putting! I'm sure you'll be fine with this pattern. Just makes sure to read the many reviews that are out there. And work with a 4 way stretch fabric if you're concerned about sizing.

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  11. What a great dress. I have a RTW dress with similar lines from a somewhat slinky knit. It is so flattering to have a v neck, waist definition and a skirt that moves. I'm not surprised that Scott is a fan.

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    1. It is a very good cut. Makes you feel slender!

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  12. (i think blogger ate my comment... sorry if this is duplicate!)

    the dress looks great! that color is really beautiful, i hope you get lots of wear out of this make. i think all the reviews of this dress put me off from trying this pattern when i was far less confident with knits. i still have my moments, but i'll definitely give it a go sometime here.

    don't fret about the sewing frustrations. can we really expect everything to go smoothly on our first go? it's not like we make the same pattern up ten times in a row and get it perfect. we make a pattern once then move on. so with each new pattern, we start over just a little bit. it can be frustrating, but i'm also learning the value of making the same thing over and over and seeing how much better version three is than version one.

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    1. Thanks L! The more I sew - and the higher my expectations get - the more I realize I've got to recut parts of a garment (especially if it's a knit and I'm not starting with a muslin). It's the way it goes. And really, by the time you get to the third one, skills are really improving :-)

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  13. I love this colour, and I think it will look beautiful on you.
    I'm thinking its moon phases or something because everything I touch at the moment with a needle fights with me. I feel cack-handed and incompetent and I really, really hate feeling like that.
    Ah...this too shall pass. Won't it?

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    1. Thanks Evie! And what is it about the freakin' sewing crazies lately? Maybe the mid-summer is going to be all mellow and easy.

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    2. From your lips to God's ears. My plan for today is to redo the waistband on the skirt I'm sewing...too freaking short. Argh!

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  14. This dress is beautiful! I love the drape, and it also looks comfortable.

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  15. Your V1027 came out looking wonderful. Im sorry to hear you had such hassles with the fit but I guess its a reminder that all our bodies are different. I agree with the length of the skirt too...I chopped mine after its first real wear - i felt like a bloody 'ol maid all day hanging somewhere between knee & ankles! { LOVING } your fabric colour choice BTW.

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    1. Thank you! Isn't that skirt ridiculous?? At 6 feet it would still be too long! I'm actually down with altering knit patterns on the fly. Didn't think I would be, but it's somewhat less serious-seeming than the muslins one makes for wovens.

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