Monday, February 18, 2013

Sewing Review: The Coppelia

OK, I've got a review of sorts today, on the Papercut Patterns Coppelia. It's picture dense (on the dress form - I haven't washed my hair in 3 days...) and not entirely positive.

Let me lead with the good: The pattern is beautifully presented on paper that's easy to trace or store. The instructions are clear. The garment is very simple to sew and the designer employs some nice techniques (the neck band, hem ties and cuffs).  For a relative beginner, I think this pattern is quite doable. Furthermore, the garment could be considered an au courant spin on a timeless shape.

Now onto my issues...

For starters, have a look at the envelope photo:


I can't begin to get into the numerous things I dislike about the styling (they could have shot this woman in so many more flattering and "attractive-to-purchaser" ways), but that's not why I'm showing it.

Do you see the way the sweater pulls on the left front near the armpit and along the upper bodice? Do you see how the sleeve ripples as is moves towards the armpit?

Sure, this look is modern and slouchy (like the kids these days, ahem) but I don't think that's why those pull lines are there. I sense the pull lines are a sign of suboptimal drafting. And when you're only working with 3 main pattern pieces, that's perplexing, quite honestly.

A note on this pattern's questionable sizing:  On reading other reviews (there aren't many), I opted to make the XS with a modification. That mod was to use the size S for the front wrap - only the front. I deliberately didn't impact the armscye in any way.  I have rarely seen a pattern with sizing this askew. Moreover, as I'll discuss, the challenge originates at the sleeve piece, IMO.

Have a look at some shots of my version:


You can see similar pulls, a la pattern envelope shot, at the bust and at the arm.

Note that I made the arm in an XS and I still had to remove more than an inch from its circumference (tapering to the armsyce which I didn't want to mess with - though that's what really needs the work) and the arms are still WAY too baggy.


Do you see how low the raglan sleeve seam is on the front?


Do you see how high it is on the back?


Look, I'm no pattern drafter - that's why you don't see my cute marketing all over the internet - but I sense that the sleeve was designed to drop at the front to give some additional space for the bust curve. Alas, it limits mobility of the arm and it makes the side look weird and droopy:


What I think needs to happen here is that the front of the raglan sleeve needs to be made smaller (shorter, aka higher up the body) to provide a mobile fit in the armscye. Of course, that means that the front piece would need redrafting. As is, there's not enough length over the bust curve (sure, my bust requires a lot of length, but the model is practically boob-free and the same thing is happening on her). With an altered front armsyce, the need for more fabric over the bust would be increased still further.

I've been wracking my brains trying to figure out the fix in the front bodice (presuming that one altered the sleeve). I sense it would need a dart (one that you could move to the side if you wanted to) but it requires more fabric over the front which can then be shaped at the side bust.

Furthermore, do you see how my version is drooping at the front waist? That's probably cuz I tried to solve my "needs more room at the bust" issue by making the centre front line of the front bodice in the size S (vs the XS used for the back and arms). What I neglected to consider - at my peril - is that the negative ease that works to my advantage in the full bust, also applies at the waist. That means that this thing is way too big at the waist. When I pull the ties around snugly, a good 2 inches of the bodice follows the tie into the side-slit opening. It's a really bad look anyway you slice it and, while I can fuss with things to stop it from happening, then the front droops down because the waist is too big.

I should also mention that, as you know, my dress form is wider than me and has less-deep breasts. On me, all of the problems are more notable (though less unattractive, I like to think, what with me being sentient and having some pretty nice boobs to distract from the larger issues). I put a snap at the wrap point to keep things from gaping - not that there's much gape, but I would wear this without anything underneath and I don't want any slips. Alas, the fabric is so drapey, that one can see a slight pull where it attaches (when the snap is done up, which it isn't in the shots above).

Brief sidebar: I finally used my modal fabric and, Lord, that stuff is awesome. I'm sad that I spent it on this design - but it is the perfect drape and hand for a sweater of this sort.

I do recognize that the low front raglan seam and over-large sleeves might be a design feature, albeit one that I find universally unflattering. What I will say is that this design will work best on a tube shaped torso rather than an hourglass. If you have proportionately large arms, wide shoulders, small breasts and a waist measurement that is not so different from your bust measurement, then you're in the best place to get a "good fit" from this top. While the model, above, is very slender you can see that in broad strokes, that's her shape.

Will I wear this? I don't know. I've become insanely fussy on the fit front. Chances are I'll give it a go and, if in the real world, it stays put / is comfortable when I move, it might have a role in my wardrobe. What I'll say is that the fabric is beautiful and the colour looks terrific on me. Also, wrap tops are a flattering look on my body. I don't know that anyone else is going to be attuned to the fit challenge (as I see it).

I'm on the fence about ordering the Pavolva - basically the same look, though I suspect the drafting will be superior and done with boobs in mind. I think I'm going to wait to see how other versions turn out before I spend the not-insignificant amount of money it costs. I have more patterns than I know what to do with.

So, today's questions: Do you agree with me on the fit issues, or do you think I'm crazy, that this is merely a design element that I don't like? Do you like the top? Would you make this design? Do you think the cost is excessive (25 bucks before shipping - though shipping charges appear to be on hiatus at the moment)? I'm so intrigued to hear what you think about this!

Update to reflect my husband's opinion: OK, just tried the top on with jeans and my husband said: Man, that looks great! He then followed it up with: It's attractive, youthful, sexy and - if you wore it on a date - I'd totally want to do you. So, apparently, I might have been too hard on this pattern. Caffy's comment is duly noted...

28 comments:

  1. Hi K!

    I sew with two different approaches at times...

    1. To sew for learning, fit and quality

    2. To sew for fun, function and everyday life

    I think that this pattern falls into the second category and although your critique is absolutely spot on, this top is not designed to be a couture piece. I really like it. It's not top-end, this you know... but I think for everyday tootling, this top will be fab.

    Until next time my lovely lady!

    Bundana x

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    1. I think this is a really valid perspective, C. The problem with turning a highly critical eye to everything, is that so many of them start to fall short. And, updated the post to reflect my husband's opinion of the top. You can see he's on your page.

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  2. Your husband sure has a way with words!! :)

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  3. I had problem with the fit of the hoody top from Papercut patterns, including with the Raglan sleeves. I wrote about it here http://denimskirtsandotherstuff.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/someone-killed-kenny.html. Your husband gave it a good review though! I'm the same as you about something with pulling issues at the sleeves. I might wait for a few more reviews of the Pavlova and see what that one's like.

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    1. Wow, we really had the same issues with the raglan cut! And I should have mentioned that i wish I'd stabilized the neck with fusible interfacing. The pattern doesn't call for it and I was so taken by other elements of the pattern that I didn't remember to do this till it was too late.

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    2. I'd forgotten all about the issues I had until reading your post! Blogs are great for documenting stuff. I love your honest reviews as well.

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  4. The fabric and colour of this top are delicious and whilst I can totally see the issues that you've encountered I think this is still a far superior top to most RTW, even high end stuff. Given that your husband likes it so much, I'd wash my hair, don top, jeans and heels and head to town for cocktails ;-)
    And I do think shipping costs suck...that's why I'm more than happy to tape downloads together. Much cheaper and much quicker. And a strangely therapeutic activity.

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    1. Ha! I guess I should do that :-) Once the kid recovers from this bug...

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    2. Hope she's feeling better. The bugs are nasty this year.

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    3. We ended up back at the doc's today. Antibiotics and a puffer were the result. I hope she will be better very soon.

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  6. Bummer. Sounds like your hubby likes it though, and that's important too! :-) I'd say just wear it--as long as it's not uncomfortable, that is. Love the color, and I'm putting modal on my wishlist at Mood for someday when I can afford to purchase some nicer fabric....probably have to wait until I stop buying bras! :-P

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    1. It is important. Even inspired me to wear it today. Modal is beautiful to work with. You should get some at your earliest opp. I got mine online (shipping was insane) so I can't imagine when next I will have access.

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  7. Well, husband compliments are noting, he is seeing it on you.

    I wonder why they chose to make it up in white and then use a white/grey backdrop. I am not overly enthused by the pattern, and I too am waiting to see a few more Pavlova's made prior to buying the pattern. I think I'll buy it at some point but not quite yet.

    But I am glad to hear that modal was fun to sew with. :D

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    1. I know, the marketing is bizarre... You are going to LOVE that fabric.

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  8. First off: THANK YOU for mentioning the styling. So odd, and I hate those shorts.. how unflattering can you get?
    Sounds like a weirdly drafted pattern... I'm really not sold on Papercut because they are SO expensive. You'd think I'd be full of patriotic pride being a NZ-er but, nah. heh :)
    Looks like you made it work anyway though! (Never dismiss a husband compliment!)

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    1. Wow - if the NZ girl thinks they're too expensive, what hope is there? :-) I think you're right to avoid the patterns, though. Too much money to spend on something that comes out looking weird.

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  9. That is one of the problems I usually always have with wrap tops. Think I have one knit one somewhere that actually fits properly. ONE. Which is why I don't even bother trying them on anymore.

    Think it might just be typical of the style.

    That said - the colour is lovely. And you can't get a more ringing endorsement than your Hubby's! ;-)

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    1. It might be the style. Esp. if your shoulders are wide, but I think it's more about the drafting of the average wrap top or dress. If you were able to customize it to your shape, I suspect you'd like the wrap much more.

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    2. Well I can't argue with that. ..and what I wouldn't give to be able to have personally tailored clothes.

      I really need to learn how to sew, don't I? hah!

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    3. It sure would help you with those buttonholes :-)

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  10. "Will I wear this? I don't know. I've become insanely fussy on the fit front."

    I'm working on that one. It sucks all the joy out of sewing and wearing. I'm working toward what Caffy said - fun, function, and everyday life. I want my clothes to look good and look good on me but I really don't want to be insanely fussy... and I am... perhaps I'll start with somewhat insanely fussy! I've been sewing things just for fun lately, just to see what happens, like the block printed blouse I'm working on now, and it's restoring that edge and energy.

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    1. Trust me, I sometimes think of you when I'm having these moments because I know you can relate!

      Too much fuss takes the fun out of everything and fun is the point. I guess we have to walk a line...

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  11. Sorry to be late commenting, I wanted to take my time reading this and also Caffy's post. I agree with your sleeve analysis (Caffy's too). The front of the raglan is set too low. I see what you mean about the proportions that would make the top more flattering (proportions closer to mine) but there's still too much bunching at the armhole on the model IMO.

    Still, as others noted, if your husband likes it, by all means enjoy wearing it! The color is beautiful, you love the fabric, and it probably compliments your figure in ways you're not focusing on because of the fit issues.

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    1. Maybe you want to take this pattern on, Susan! I'm going to enjoy it for what it is. It was a fun sew and not everything has to be perfect. Mind you, I don't sense I'll be making this again.

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  12. I agree with your analysis of the fit, but if I thought I was looking at RTW I'd think that it fit just fine. (I have a huge double standard with fit when it comes to what I sew and buy. Am I the only one?) My husband goes wild for anything that wraps and ties, too. *men*

    My concern with the Pavlova top is how high it wraps and where the top wrap/binding falls. On the envelope art it looks like it is going to fall across the apex of the bust, which IMHO is not ideal. But it may be different on a live person?

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    1. Ha! The men are very predictable that way. And you do have lovely decollete!

      We share the same concern about the Pavlova. I've seen a version I love and a few others that leave me wondering if it's really going to flatter me. If there's too much fabric over the bust, it's as bad as too little. I do think that Steph is a good drafter (though she does design on the large-side for each size, if her Tiramisu can be viewed as her size standard). I really do want to see "real world" versions.

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