Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Phatter

Yesterday I gave you some straight up opinions about back fat. Today, I'd like to share some ideas about how you might choose bras, and clothes, to ameliorate the situation. Cuz, IMO, I think we've gotta kick this insecurity in the ass.

But first, a little PSA about one sort of back fat I neglected to address in the last post. This sort is hotly debated in the biz (whatever that is. Lord knows I'm not in the biz so maybe I should stop talking about their hot debates...) This type of fat is actually migrated breast tissue and there are a lot of suspect posts about it out there, though this one is quite good (and it links to a few additional posts).

My personal opinion is that migrated breast tissue is not a myth. I've seen it. It usually happens when a woman (of any breast size) has been wearing the incorrect cup size for a long time. You know those peeps who are in a cup 3 sizes too small? Where the under wire hits the side of the breast, not at the back, but along the actual breast? Or those whose breasts are barely contained by the top of the cups, while the centre gores are a good inch away from the breastbone against which they should lie flat.

Over time, especially if you have the tendency, you may start to see extra fleshiness, often at the side torso, around the band. You may also see flesh migrate along the sternum (though this doesn't produce back fat).

On a positive note, I also believe that, once you start wearing the right bra size, the tissue can revert to its former and natural location. But I don't think the process is necessarily quick. And I suspect, if you're 65 and you've been in the wrong bra for 50 years, you're less likely to see a reversal than a woman of 23, for example. Note: If you're in the former category, by all means aim to beat the odds. You'll look much better as soon as you get your bra size sorted out, even if everything doesn't pop back to its original spot.

OK, onto the kinds of bras that seem to mitigate the issue. Please note that I am not suggesting the bras pictured below, nor do I think they fit the model perfectly. However, I do have experience of each of these brands and I think they're very good. Also note that I've drawn the photos from Figleaves, for convenience (and because I sometimes purchase there), but that other online stores - like Large Cup Lingerie sell much of the same stock with the same efficiency. More to the point, LCL ships for free!
  • Those with wide bands (3 hooks minimum, or at least, wide side under wires that diminish to a 2-hook back).  It stands to reason that the more area over which you support your breasts, the more you can defray the bulge.
Panache Andorra - This brand manufactures some really supportive bands that are deceptively delicate-looking.

  • Those with side-shaping. They tend to have wires that sit higher on the side breast which allows for width in the side band.
Kathryn Bra by Fantasie (this brand caters to the side-support seekers)
  •  Expensive bras. Hear me out. The really high-end lines (which can often be purchased at good prices online or on sale) have access to the best wires and materials. Not only will you look chic, but the material that's making you look chic will also control any back fat issues.
Empreinte Roxanne - I have wanted this bra forevah but I can't find any online vendor that will ship it out of the EU.
  • Mid line or long line bras. Oh, the times they have been tough for the ladies who want these bras but who do not conform to the 34B-38DD size range. Or those who don't like the retro-look. But I sense things are changing. Freya and Cleo (Panache) have put out some great options in the 30 back to G cup range, though I'm not convinced they've hit their stride. I own one Freya long line and it's really a mid line and there's no actual boning on the sides and there's slight padding in the cups. This doesn't a) maximize my support or b) streamline the profile of my chest. However, the young women have taken to these and they're buying them like hot cakes, so I think, at least for those of narrow(ish) frame and large(ish) breasts, it's good times ahead.
Freya Piper Long Line
  • Sexy, one-pieces. No, I don't mean Spanx. I do mean body-suits with built in bras that actually contain support. The torsos of these body-suits should not compress you, but they should skim. I own this one and it's awesome. It is not tight at all but it holds everything in place:
Panache Confetti Thong Body
Remember, it doesn't matter what the band is doing if the cups don't fit, so make sure your entire breast is inserted comfortably within the under wire and that the centre gore of that under wire can lie flat against your breast bone.

In short, you're looking for undergarments made of high-end materials, wide bands, firm support from those bands (i.e. you have to wear the "right size") and properly-sized cups.

On the topic of clothing that enhances the fabulousness of your fabulous undergarments, I warn you against slim gauge 4-way stretch knits if you're looking to hide a bulge. The fabrics and cuts that will work best, IMO, are these:
  • Stable knits (like ponte or two-way stretch jersey). Whether you wear these in a t shirt or a body skimming tunic or dress, be sure you're in the right size. Too big will look less than flattering. Too small will do the same thing.
  • Darker colours in fabrics having solid colours or discreet patterns. I don't mean you have to wear black! But white is gonna give it all up. So use your discretion.
  • Blouses with a small amount of spandex for stretch. Note, these have to fit really well. They need sharp shaping at the waist and adequate width through the breasts and torso. And they must fit like a dream in the shoulders. But they sure do skim nicely when they're done well. If you have large breasts and you don't sew / and custom fit your hand-sewn garments then look up those brands that cater to curvy ladies.
  • Structured wovens. Again, they have to fit. Too tight and you're gonna look like a sausage.
Don't fear any particular type of garment but wear only what flatters. Most people have to chuck 90 per cent of what they try on at a high-street RTW store without leaving the change-room. That's normal. So be prepared to do a lot of discarding to find a few great things. And then enjoy them!

In terms of fabric, I suspect that rayon knits are the hardest to wear, along with silk-blend stretch fabric. If 4 inches of unstretched garment width can stretch to more than 6 inches, it's probably not gonna work. But don't take my word for it, do your own research.

So, I'd love to know if you concur with these findings or if you disagree. Let's continue yesterday's discussion!

BTW, this post really does align quite nicely with the Cake Patterns pre-order happening at Steph's blog, so check out this great new company and pre-order a flattering look!

25 comments:

  1. Great topic! I was reading through the instructions for a McCalls pattern tonight, and the opening paragraph of the instructions was a chatty discussion of how skinny people look great in fitted knits, but pleats, gathering, and bold prints are great for hiding back fat! I chuckled and had to read it out loud to my husband... because seriously, how ingrained is women's fear of back fat with it is the first selling point of a pattern? It's like our collective concern over armpit skin folding at the top of a strapless dress. I mean, yes, it happens. Yes, maybe it's not the prettiest. But lordy, ladies, who did we let convince us that it's horrible and shameful? Like you, I'd rather have well-supported and comfy boobs than worry about what other people think of my back!

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    1. That is crazy. I've never noticed that in a pattern before.

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  2. Just a side remark (OK, snide, but trying to be funny) - will the next post be called Phattest?

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  3. Gorgeous bras! That bodysuit is killer. So's the Panache black bra. I know what you mean about better materials. Some of the finer microfibers are really amazing. I recently tried on bra with a sheer nylon back that was deceptively strong, and very soft at the same time. It wasn't this wussy mesh, nor was it stiff like a lot of powernet can be. I like the side shaping idea, too. Even though I'm small, I definitely prefer bras that have those higher sides. You can see that the model in the Empreinte bra has an extra bit of storage right at her arm crease, and higher side shaping helps to smooth that.

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    1. A lot depends on the length and shape of your torso, in terms of appreciating high wires. They really work well on some people. They torment others.

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  4. Oh my goodness - That Roxanne bra is gorgeous. (But my ever-present fear of it arriving completely expanded in every direction in my size would probably prevent me from buying it.)

    Clearly I just need to take an actual trip to England for the sole purpose of lingerie shopping. Could I interest you in such a trip one day? LOL

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    1. Like, next week?? :-)

      We should throw Paris into the mix cuz technically the Roxanne is from a French brand.

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    2. The day I actually have the cash set aside for a big shopping trip, you'll be the first to know. (Alex and I joke around a lot about me taking a trip to Hong Kong for the sole purpose of buying purses... I'm not sure if he realizes I'm totally serious?)

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  5. I totally agree with migrating tissue, the ability to redistribute it by not squishing it toward an area where it doesn't belong, and the unflattering-ness of thin, clingy knits. I just wish I hadn't read this posting right before I cooked dinner...not appetizing.

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  6. On bra bands I'll also promote styles with shoulder straps that are U-shaped in the back and are sewn so they almost meet at the back clasp. My back and shoulders are narrow and even though I'm an average cup size I get a better fit in the back with U-shaped straps instead of straps that are attached perpendicular to the back band.

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    1. Really good point. I've been paying attention to my own "back fat" over the past few days, since I've been writing and thinking about this topic. What I've noticed is that the area where I can see a bulge (and it doesn't bother me / isn't extreme, but it is interesting to note) is above the bra band between my shoulder blades. That shape of straps and band would probably work to mitigate what I'm seeing.

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  7. I've never wanted a long or midline bra until just now. BUT I WANT THAT BRA.

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    1. Allow me to enable: It's easy to find on Figleaves or Large Cup Lingerie (and at this site there's no shipping charge for any orders, anywhere).

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  8. I've always liked a wider strap in my bras, 3-4 hooks is great. Thing is I prefer a partial band bra because when I sit the full band rolls under and becomes a partial band bra. Apparently I have crappy posture. In sewing my own bras, I've occasionally widened the straps by just a smidgen because I really do like it to be wider but not so much to throw off all the connecting pieces. I use hook and eye tape (rather than buying the 3 hook/eyes) so if it's a little wider there it's okay, I can cut it to fit.

    I've bought a long line Kwik Sew pattern. One day I'll tackle it. I like the look and concept, I know my mom would love one too. Back issues aside, it would be good for her to have support for her hiatus hernia. Given the wide number of seniors who have that I can't imagine she's the only one who would want that same support.

    And I totally agree with your guidelines of what will likely work better to hide these issues. I have a rayon knit top that is comfy, but pretty far from flattering. I usually wear a tank top under it to smooth things out (and avoid excessive cleavage as the neck opening is huge). Stable knits that skim rather than cling are your friend.

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    1. I prefer a partial band too. For my short waisted torso, it works best. I'm happy that there are so many to choose from these days.

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  9. I fall into that category of women whose breasts were probably squished wearing the wrong size bra, even when young, even thought I was supposedly "fitted". I also know that since I have a more egg-shaped torso, and that I carry the weight in my breasts low and wide and always have, even when I was very young, initial assessments may have been deceiving. Now I know better. Look and feel better too.

    Those bras are gorgeous! And I want that body thingy but with my long torso and smallish band size I will probably never find one to fit. Bummer. Might have to sew lingerie one of these days.

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    1. You see, that torso shape (which I learned so much about in Kathleen F's post) is a challenge from a bra fitting perspective.

      And I can say that the body suit is short. I find it almost too short so don't buy it!

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  10. You're proposing bras with thick bands (or even long-line) as if breast tissue migrated down, which is actually rare. Some of us (apparently with well-padded ribs :-)) have the too-small-cup-for-too-long problem, but still need partial band bras to not have problems with the band rolling around.
    One simple feature that really helps the side creep is a side seam with boning. Wacoal has that in general, one reason I love them.

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    1. Side seams with boning are genius, I agree - and much too hard to find!

      I think, what can happen with migrating tissue is that first it moves to the back along the profile of the band (as a result of the wire pushing the tissue backwards) and then, given the compression of the band it can move up or down. No question, I'm not an expert on this, so feel free to expand on this comment.

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    2. I'd like to add that I've always had a bony ribcage and vastly prefer the full band, and find partial bands (especially Wacoal) too painful to wear, so that might support your theory. I am glad that someone likes them!

      Mona

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    3. See, everyone adds to the wealth of information! Thanks Mona.

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  11. Fabulous bras. I love my black lace Prima Donna Madison bras. The nude and black Simone Perele Andora bras I bought didn't work out well because the band stretched and now they're not tight enough. I was having the same trouble with the Prima Donna Madison bras until I realized I need to hand wash them more frequently. Now they're fine.

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