Mental Block

Over a couple of recent posts, the venerable Yarn Harlot (Stephanie Pearl-McPhee) has unapologetically set out her perspective on wet blocking newly-finished knits. 

The upshot (though, really, read the posts - I can't provide a better synopsis) is that wet blocking is the only way to go when it comes to final finishing of one's beloved hand knits.

These YH posts have elicited some very interesting comments, for example, one wherein the commenter described blocking as the difference between homemade and handmade. Strong words! Another commenter referred to Catherine Lowe, the owner of a new England yarn operation, whose philosophy is unique. Apparently, Ms. Lowe believes that one should knit a garment "too small" and then "couture block" to size (a theory with which I don't suspect the Yarn Harlot would agree, as Ms. Pearl-McPhee posits that blocking and stretching are not the same activity). 

What I can tell you is that I fall into the category of knitter whose gauge grows mysteriously as she goes. The YH references this "type" in her post, the type that fears blocking due to the potentiality for massive garment growth after submerging in water.)  As a side note, given that I always wet block, and I have certainly experienced horror as my sweaters turned into short dresses (at least until they dried and recovered), I'm actually down with the philosophy of knitting "too small". Now that I've started doing this - within careful parameters and not in any way as an alternative to doing the math - I'm finally making sweaters that fit. (Keep in mind, I also enjoy very close fit and I'm short, so this method suits me well.)

Here's the thing - wet blocking is divisive!

In full disclosure, I completely concur with Ms. P-M: wet blocking is not optional. IMO, it's the final step on one's path to knitted-object completion. I spend lots of time soaking and pinning and smushing and measuring. I roll wet wool - which smells hideous, btw - carefully, in multiple towels, to protect my precious stitches as they absorb excess water. I watch that blocking garment like a newborn. I fuss and I do think it's worth the outcome.

I'm on one end of the spectrum.

On the other end of the spectrum are those who espouse something between no blocking and steam blocking* (something I sense the YH doesn't consider blocking, even though many fantastic and knitters of gorgeous finished garments do).

I've steam blocked a variety of garments in my day. They looked much better after steaming than before. But they did not look half as good as they would have, had I wet-blocked them. There's something about using water to remove hand oils and extra dye as one actually cleans a garment that may have landed on some dicey surfaces in the course of knitting. There's something about pinning it out to size, or positioning carefully for optimal fiber recovery as the garment dries flat. The impact on the finished product is alchemical.

In all the instances I've steam blocked, I did so because I intuitively knew my final fabric was going to grow and morph. Sure, it saved my ass in the short-term, but I still needed to wash those knits eventually - at which point, my fears were generally realized. Now I knit on smaller-than-suggested needles (I don't even swatch on the recommended needle size, no point). I make the smallest size (rather than the 2nd smallest - which is my best size on paper). I often also use a yarn with thinner gauge than is called for. As I go, if I feel things are getting loose, I change up the pattern to address the issue. I'm not saying that my challenge is everyone's - I mean, many knit very tightly, and for them my plan would be a disaster - but for me it's made the difference between things I can't wear and those I love.

And keep in mind I do swatch! Swatching just isn't that useful for me, 90 per cent of the time. Because I'm a "responsive" knitter - because I consider the garment every step of the way (vs. swatching followed by knitting what I see on the page by rote) - and because I'm not afraid to make changes as I work - this produces better outcomes for me than any other method I've tried. Of course, if anyone has alternative suggestions - I'd love to hear about them.

You might believe that wet blocking can occur when your first wash the garment, after you've worn it for a while My perspective is that this does your fabric a disservice. When you wear before blocking, you alter the fabric in such a way that blocking may not be optimally effective when finally you undertake it.

At any rate, I've engaged in lively debate with my knitting friends about this topic, on a number of occasions, and I'm always amazed by the disparate and passionate opinions. I should concede, I've seen gorgeous finished projects that were steam blocked and I can't imagine there would have been any benefit, other than washing, to wet blocking those projects because they were so perfectly produced in the first place.

But I'm curious to know about you! Do you wet block? Steam block? Never block? What's your rationale?? Let's talk!

*As you likely know, one should be very careful using steam to block synthetic fibers. Synthetics tend to melt which will, at very least, change the way your fabric feels and wears.

Bust the Stash: Finished Object 3 - Decalage Scarf

It's such a pain in the ass at this time of the year - there's really no light for picture-taking (though, admittedly, there's much more light now than there was even 2 weeks ago).

No mind, I'm on a trajectory and this post contains photos (see below). I just hope they can convey a little bit of the intrinsic beauty of the Decalage scarf. I suggest you check out this post for more info on how to determine the weights of yarn required.

I should also take a moment to concede that this is not a true stash-bust. This post says it all but buying 1800 yards of yarn to use 250 is a stash-bust fail. Mind you, my mistake has introduced me to a lovely pattern that will facilitate my usage of all the Habu steel/silk eventually. And the end result is fancy-ass. This is the kind of gift that makes an impact. If I were to find this at a shop it would easily cost 350 bucks. (Of course, it fucking should. The yarn alone was 70 bucks).

In brief, there are 6 sections in the scarf: the two outer sections are made up of one strand of Habu and one strand of lace weight yarn, held together. The 4 interior panels are made up of 3 strands of lace weight yarn, held together, in different colour combinations.

Where I'd do this differently - and I will make this again because I'm not done with that wretched Habu - is in making the outer panels longer i.e. the same length as the other panels. That will achieve the end result of divesting myself of the rest of the steel yarn and will also provide more appealing proportions (to my eye). Note to myself: I wrote up the proposed weights for next time in this scarf's Ravelry project page.

But I like this (admittedly tedious) knit so much that I would certainly consider making it in all lace-weight wool in the future. It's a great design. Very simple, but beautiful. It's true textile art. If I were to make an all-wool version I might rib the bottom and sides because I don't like stockinette curl.

And a word on curl: I knew what I was getting into so I'm not surprised or upset by the outcome. The curl blocks out considerably so you cannot skip this step. I urge wet-blocking for maximal effect. Curl sure does give it that "art vibe'.

This knit is all about the care and consideration given to the yarn choice and the blocking. Also, make sure the fabric is knitting up with the tension you prefer. I didn't do a gauge swatch but I confirmed that I liked the fabric my needles were producing and I determined what length my scarf would be with my own gauge (slightly smaller before blocking - longer after blocking - than the dimensions indicated in the pattern instructions). My anticipated gauge was WAY off with the steel/lace-weight combo but right on with the 3 strands of lace-weight. So you might need to use less or more of the outer panel yarn combo to achieve the length of panel you would like.

But onto some photos...

This is the section where 2 strands of the pink yarn / 1 strand of the beige yarn (panel 4) segue into 3 strands of the pink yarn (panel 5).

This is the section where 3 strands of the pink yarn (panel 5) move into 1 strand of pink yarn and 1 strand of Habu.

Here's where 1 strand of beige, 1 strand of Habu (panel 1) merge with 3 strands of beige (panel 2).

It's a really gorgeous feeling scarf. The muted colours roll together when you wear it and the Rowan lace-weight blocked beautifully. It's less hairy after blocking.

This really doesn't highlight the "cool" factor of the Habu / lace-weight wool combination. It's a bit crinkly, a bit open. Do I like it as much as the interior panels? No, but it's an interesting counterpoint.

On final reflection, here's what I'd say to a knitter thinking about making this:

• The work is all in the planning. Anyone can do that planning (new or experienced knitter) but a new knitter's going to have that much more of a challenge - particularly if (s)he isn't math-minded.

• It's a study in colour-blending and in that respect it is a very enjoyable knit. You get to see the fabric come alive - and, if you've chosen well, the colours will thrill. But otherwise it's boring, boring, boring. Mind you - it goes together pretty quickly if you plod on. 3 strands of lace-weight knit up as quickly as DK.

• Make all 6 panels of equal length - if for no other reason than that you'll use up your yarn more evenly. Note that your gauge with the steel/silk yarn is likely to be very different than that with the 3-strand wool.

What do you think of the finished object?

Summer Crafting: A Finished Object

Don't get too excited. I can't show you a photo of the Aisance (my latest finished project) till it's done blocking, which won't be for at least 36 hours, what with the humidity, yarn properties and dimensions of the garment.

Mind you, I can tell you about my experience in this post, and wow you with the photos in the next :-)

As a reminder, here's what the cardi looks like:

Oooh, pretty back shaping!

But first let's talk about the yarn...

Shibui Staccato

I like to think of myself as the ambassador for Shibui Staccato, cuz it is fine. I think it's fair to call it silk blend perfection, which is high praise coming from someone who doesn't like silk yarn.

(Side Note: I hate it when I have to concede that my long-held opinions aren't founded. Well, apparently I don't hate it that much, cuz somehow I do it on a regular basis.)

In fact, I was so psyched by the yarn (and the swatch really spoke for itself), that both Sara and Andrea opted to work with it on this project as well! A propos of this, the Aisance is another of those projects that Sara, Andrea and I will make together (but separately) as a knit along. Sara finished hers last week. Andrea is still waiting on her yarn (and is exceedingly occupied doing serious work on a new home in the County) and, well, now you know where I'm at.

The only thing I don't like about this yarn is that, in flat-worked stockinette, it's challenging to tension. I'm not one of those knitters who observes a difference in tension between knit and purl rows, but with the Staccato, it was very tricky to keep the purling as firm as the knitting. That's a feature of the slippery texture of silk (along with metal needles and cold weather) and my own skill as a knitter. I certainly wouldn't avoid it for that reason - unless you struggle with tension on a regular basis.

Staccato (like any silk yarn) does grow a bit (though not as extensively as other silks), particularly length-wise, when blocked. This is a consideration when making a cardigan with long front panels that are weighty.

Which takes us to a review of the sweater itself:

• I went down a needle size to get horizontal gauge (after blocking). I didn't even try with vertical gauge, I adjusted that on the fly.

• Nonetheless, the pattern is very large - it's drafted for 0-2 inches of positive ease - but I could easily have made the smallest size, on a smaller needle, and got a well-fitting garment (particularly after blocking). However, I made the second smallest size (32.5) for the body and the smallest size (30.5) for the sleeves, and it seems to be fine. To clarify: I went down 3 sizes in the body and 4 sizes in the sleeves and it fits, potentially slightly too large. Again, post-blocking will be the real test but I planned for some growth of the yarn as it sets and blooms during drying. Sara feels that the sleeves are oversized, as written, and suggests sizing down.

• Furthermore, the pattern suggests WAY more yarn than one requires at size. I used 400 yards less than the pattern calls for. That's an expensive pattern glitch, dare I say it. I spent 40 bucks more in yarn than I needed to. I used 6 skeins, vs. the 9 I was advised I'd require.

• Quince patterns aren't badly written, but they're not my fave. They're no Brooklyn Tweed. Perhaps the most annoying element of the entire construction process was using the errata correction, in the back shaping set up, only to discover - after the fact - that it's wrong?! The errata is in errata. Not cool, people. I have a booboo on the back body that I couldn't fix after the fact without seriously fucking up the tension. It's small, but it irritates me.

• As I wrote in a previous post, this isn't a difficult pattern, but I would change things if I were to make it again: I hate provisional cast on and I'd prefer a true seam at the back neck (vs. the weirdness the pattern suggests). This sweater has an easy way about it, construction-wise, but it does turn into a stockinette slog (and then a stockinette meets rib slog) once you get to the point that you put the sleeves on waste yarn. Having said this, the end result is a substantial, if simple, sweater with architectural lines.

As mentioned, shortly I'll post photos of this when the blocking is done - maybe even photos of me wearing it (gasp)! I do hope that I like it as much as I did when first I saw the pattern photos.

So, today's questions: Have you made this sweater? If yes, how do you feel about the end result? Would you make this sweater? Thoughts about Shibui Staccato? Let's talk!

Gauging The Situation

Wispy Cardigan by Hannah Fettig (Purchase on Ravelry.com)

One of the great things about making mistakes (she says, only vaguely believing it), is that you may inadvertently learn something that would otherwise have come to you along a much circuitous route. And by you, I mean me. Though I welcome you to come along.

Such is the case with the Wispy Cardigan (that I'm about to finish in a size small). It's an ingenious design which, I'm fairly sure, has a drafting issue in the sleeves and back shoulders. I say fairly sure because I have only slightly more knitting experience than your average polar bear, so I very much welcome any more informed perspectives. But you know how I love to immerse myself in the learning of these patterns (working with a teacher, having just done a knit shaping course online, and having read a bunch) and I suspect that what makes the cardi so intriguing is what's leading to the gap-iness across the back at the shoulders.

In addition to the gap mentioned above, and note that I got gauge on a pre-knitting swatch, the sleeves are way to wide and floppy for either my tastes or my arms. Were I ever to make this again - and the jury is out - I would def resize the sleeves substantively. Maybe I'd knit the extra small in sleeves moving to the small in the body. Note: Having taken the Craftsy course, I now know how to use gauge to resize arm circumference exactly - presuming I can verify the amount of built-in ease. So I could also get hyper mathy on this pattern's ass.

Or, I might just move on to the next knit objet, taking from this what I can and will.

Which brings me to the most useful thing I can and will take from this project - a thing I only learned now because I accidentally used the wrong needle size on a brief section of the sweater (the part after the ribbing on the back that also includes 2, almost imperceptible, triangular flaps produced by what they call "short rows")*

At this time - and possibly for a long time to come - my eye prefers the look of rather slim fingering weight yarns (i.e. 4 ply or sock weight) knit on rather slim needles (size US 4 or 3.25 mm). They are neither the slimmest of yarns nor the slimmest of needles, but when you put them both together they produce a slender, tight knit. Nothing bulky. Nothing "open".

I have nothing against bulk or open weave for those who like them. But given my shape and my style, they aren't optimal. Furthermore, both bulk and larger and/or more open stitches say, to me, "knit with love by hand". While I appear to love knitting by hand, somehow I don't want my garment to tell that tale.

This opens up the floor to my first of a few questions in this post: Do any of you have an optimal yarn weight / needle size combo, or one that you return to again and again? Sub question: Do you have feelings about bulk or open weave (or tight weave for that matter)?

If you've already followed the asterisk, above, down to the bottom of the page you will have noted that my knitting teacher was completely nonplussed by the needle size error and suggested (truly) that it would all come out in the wash. More specifically, she said that wet blocking would fix it. You may recall blocking from one of my previous posts - or, if a knitter, no doubt you are already very familiar with the practice.

Thing about this sweater is that, in order to try to tighten it up slightly, the proposed "blocking" technique is to throw it in the washer and dryer. Just writing that sentence made me nervous. Note: The wool/silk blend is made for socks and is apparently designed to be cleaned in this ultra-practical fashion.

This leads me to Question 2: Has anyone else used Chloe & Spud fine sock yarn and put it through the washer/dryer? If yes, did you remove it from the dryer when damp and block - and did it work as it's supposed to? Did anyone dry it full on and was there any shrink factor? If it went wonky, pls. advise! Or if you've worked with other yarn, designed to wash and dry, what has been your experience?

The way this sweater is knit, any blocking must occur after full assembly; there's not much assembly and it occurs mid-way through the project. Even were I to forgo putting it in the washer/dryer (if your advice came back that way), I don't know that regular wet blocking would work - and I'm damn sure it isn't going to slim up the wide sleeve circumference issue.

* Yes, this traumatizes me but my knowledgeable knitting teacher said it would block out and not be noticeable. I wonder if this counts when one intends to block by throwing the garment in the washer and dryer - as the yarn instructions advise is acceptable.

Making Gloves: Won't Be Doing That Again...

Remember how, when I made my first pair of socks, I seriously didn't like the process, but I kept on? Somehow I knew that it was a worthy undertaking, that I had benefited from the process, and would continue to do so.

Not so with gloves, my friends. Gloves, they're a huge pain in the ass - one instance, in which I suggest, machines can do it better.

Actually, I think gloves should be kid skin lined with cashmere shells (machine knit cashmere shells as light as gossamer). Or at very least Gore-Tex.

What's the use of wool gloves? They're not as warm as the other options. They're not as cute. The finger crotches (whatever we call these things) are hideously deformed - not my fault people. I tried everything. Hand needles don't get into that spot elegantly.

Somehow, though I did the exact same thing on the second glove as on the first, they look totally different. (To me, probably not to the average viewer...) And - regrettably - the second glove looks worse than the first. Which I didn't think was possible.

But I will say (and I hope Andrea or Sara might weigh in on this because they're the only ones who saw the horror that was the pre-blocked first glove), blocking was a lifesaver in this instance. And I don't think steam blocking would have done it. This blocking was freakin' surgery.

The finished product is entirely adequate, if not worth the effort:

I used Koigu Premium Merino, colour 144

You know how impossible it is to show texture and colour on blue-black fabric. And this yarn is actually blue/black variegated with little plumes of white. It's quite pretty, and textured like the actual glove pattern, but it really doesn't photograph well.

About the yarn: I used half of what the pattern suggested I would need, and I made a highly modified (aka bespoke to the hand) version of the medium. I've got just enough left over to make a pair of socks. I like this yarn, it feels nice, it's very sturdy. It's an interesting colourway - in a manly sense (and lots of colours are not so manly). I might use it again but I do think it's on the pricey side. And, while I go pricey when I love a yarn. If I'm merely satisfied by the hand, I tend to search out other options. Mind you, we'll see how it wears. Note: It stained my hands blue as I worked. And then a ton of indigo came out in the blocking. I would definitely suggest that you need to wash these by hand once to remove excess dye. And def. machine wash with like colours.

I'm glad I gave this a go. I learned things - though not how to use DPNs nor how to make finger crotches look good. I have a finished product that will act as a perfectly adequate Xmas present. But I didn't enjoy the process (this could have as much to do with where I'm at right now, aka flat out, as with the pattern). Most likely, I'd improve with practice - as I have done with socks. But I don't really care.

So you see, some mountains I have no need to climb.

Today's questions: What's the garment you've made once but never feel the need to reproduce again? Do you like glove-making? If so, why?!?! And, while we're at it, do you like this outcome - the colour, the pattern, the fit? Let's talk!

The Weekend that Was

I was more productive this weekend than I imagined I could be. I'm actually totally unmotivated. So I don't know how I managed to alter a pair of jeans (substantively), finish and block a sweater and make 2 pairs of pants. But no, I didn't garden and the front of my house is shabby.

How did this happen?

Altering the New Jeans

Well the jeans were my priority. The weather has shifted (it'll warm up again but we're moving slowly towards an inevitable temperature and it's cold) so I need some pants that work. I'm bored of my skinnies (though they serve my wardrobe well) and most of the things in my closet either don't fit or they're just not doing it for me right now. I ended up narrowing the flare by 2 inches on each leg and the jeans are still flared, if mildly. It's a sailor-y look that works well on my figure. I also removed 5 inches of length from the hem. (Man, I could have made jeans for a baby with the volume of denim scraps.) Let me say that the pants are really well made. The inner outer leg is sewn with an inch of seam allowance - not serged shut - so that, if you want to make these wider, theoretically you can with relative ease. There was also an extra inch of fabric at the original hem to work with. It's not often I see that. Given the high waist and wide-leg, I sense these will look great with my new Jenna cardigan.

BTW, I do intend - as mentioned - to take photos of my new handmade (and purchased) garments. But factors must align (time in the morning, weather). I haven't forgotten.

Making the Hudson Pant(s)

The Hudson pants were fun to make. I had a mini-assembly line going as I made 2 pairs of these simultaneously - one ankle length and the other cropped. I used my two, rather helpful (if I do say so myself) tutorials on sewing in a flat elastic waistband. In case you're interested, here's the first tutorial. Here's the second.

I should take a photo of the finished pants, flat, just to show them off but I don't know if they'll look any more interesting than any other photos of sweatpants I photographed unworn. Their genius is in the INSANELY comfortable French terry of which they are constructed..

I'm really happy with the cropped version because it will replace a RTW version that I've worn into the ground over the last 5 summers. I'm pleased to know (understatement) that I can recreate these again and again because the cropped sweatpant is a surprisingly attractive look on me.

Finishing Kristin's Cowl Pullover

It appears that the easiest way to finish a cowl-neck sweater quickly is to decide, after an inch of edging, that you'd prefer to wear a crew neck! That's what happened to me and - I swear - it wasn't just a decision based on my urge to be done with this project. The pullover is blocking now and I do hope that it springs back, to its former dimensions and shape, when dry. (Of course, I didn't measure before blocking - like an idiot.) I know it's not going to align entirely with the measurements provided to me in the Custom Fit pattern. (I measured it a number of times while knitting.)

What I can say is that all of the pre-block vertical measurements were spot on. The horizontal ones I can't really comment on because I had that rip-back (requiring me to ease in a lot of extra yarn). As such, my gauge in the waist is totally messed with; it's beyond my ability to assess the pattern's accuracy there. I will say that the hip circumference was larger than it should have been (pre-blocking) and the shoulder width was spot on. I can't quibble much with the validity of one's ability to achieve Custom Fit measurements - though I'm not sure those are entirely accurate unless you use a really large swatch and you know exactly what finished dimensions you want (not necessarily what you'll get automatically). I have lots of other things to say about the system, which I'll get into when I post on this again, following blocking.

TL/DR: If you don't know how to fit I don't know whether Custom Fit is actually going to fix the problem for you.

So that's my weekend. Now I'm eating cheezies for dinner because I feel like it.

Updated: Gauge the Situation: Getting Started on the Siivet

Hey all: I posted this a couple of days ago (before the PSA posts), and I wonder if was eclipsed by the drama I've been experiencing. I'm reposting it now in case you didn't notice it before... No new progress on the Siivet to date, but I will provide more info when I get back to knitting, one hopes very soon.

This is the sport-weight project I've landed on for the Gauge the Situation series, thanks to your feedback a while ago:

Siivet Pullover by Vladimira Cmorej

I've only just started by making a fulsome gauge swatch (both twisted rib and stockinette) which is blocking.

The suggested gauge for this project, using a US4 needle, is:

In Stockinette, 24 sts and 30 rows = 4"
In twisted Rib, 32 sts and 34 rows = 4"

Prior to blocking I got 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette. I got 30 stitches and 30 rows in twisted rib on the size 4 needle.

Now, once again, I'm reviewing all the stats to determine how best to proceed. These are:

• I have 1100 yards of yarn. The small requires just under this amount. The medium requires more.

• The tension of the Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (a yarn I continue to love, happily, unlike the Aran version), is nice and dense on the US4. If I were to go down a needle size, to try to get gauge, I sense the fabric might be too tense.

• The measurements on the small are 25" waist and 39.5" bust. It's meant to fit loosely over the bust. The twisted rib, at the gauge I've got, will stretch by 50% without looking pulled on the size 4 needle.

• With my gauge (again, the pre-blocked version, I'll have to check if things have changed once the swatch dries), were I to use the stitch instructions to make the small, I'd get a waist circumference of 29.5" and a bust circumference of 43" (a little bigger than those of the medium).  I'm ok with the waist measurement - I think it will do, if slightly larger than it needs to be. I believe the bust, at this gauge, is going to be too large. I'm looking for 40", maybe 41" max.

• Knitters say the sweater fits short. My unblocked gauge would give me some extra length without having to add rows.

• The sweater is a simple, and elegant design of 2 pieces - a front and a back. It's a flat knit that seams from the wrist seam to side seam at the hip in one go. The dolman (really more kimono-style since the armscye sits pretty high) shoulder/arm seam is worked separately. This sweater is knit bottom-up (not my preferred method, since you can't try as you go): rib at the high hip melds into the stockinette waist, then increases provide room in the bust at which point the front or back arms are worked (depending on which piece you're knitting).

• When you knit a sleeve that's part of the body of your sweater, you have to think of the portion above the bust (basically, from the armscye up) in terms of length, not circumference. So, the instruction dimensions speak to circumference until you get to armscye, at which point all of your flat knitting is affecting the two dimensional span from elbow, up to the neck, and back down to the other elbow. Understanding how this impacts stitch numbers that you may want to modify is the trickiest part of this project.

• In fact, its relative simplicity is what may facilitate my knitting this sweater in a size small on the US 4 needle, with modifications of the bust volume and length of sleeves (which are attached to the neck and shoulders). Should I proceed at this gauge, in this size, I'll have to knock 5 inches off the arm/neck/arm length to get it to 38 inches. And another 2-3 inches off of the bust circumference.

• Mind you, if my swatch shows softening after blocking, that is, if it opens or grows at all, I am going to have to make another swatch on a size 3 needle to see if I can find a way to more closely approximate the actual size small.

So there you go. Planning is a holistic part of the knitting process, which may be gentle when you decide to work with a very simple shape. I haven't started this yet, obviously, but I sense that it would be a very good beginner (first or second) knitting project. Its impact will be in achieving the right fabric tension (oh so even), hand, and fit. And, if it ends up looking like the pictures, it will be a timeless, beautiful garment.

More to come...

Update on swatches:

The size 4 needle swatch did open quite a bit, although my gauge didn't change dramatically. Nonetheless, it's too loose, IMO. So I swatched on size 3 needles.

The weird thing is that the horizontal tension on my stockinette, on the size 3, isn't notably different than the size 4, though the twisted rib is quite different. I do get about 1 stitch per 2 inches smaller in the stockinette, after blocking. Since I thought the original twisted rib was going to be too loose, I think I'm going to have to opt for knitting this on the size 3 needles. The good news is that, depending on how things shape up, I may not need to do any size altering (by removing stitches at various pivot points). The, potentially, less good news is that knitting sport weight on size 3 needles may take a while.

I guess it's not like I've got lots to do at this point, so maybe it's a blessing? 

My Sweater Is Blocking Is Blocking*

There are red-letter days: When, as an adolescent, you go out shopping and for lunch with friends for the first time. When you kick ass in an interview and they offer you the job on the spot. When you make a fancy meal for your new boyfriend and it's totally awesome (and then, 5 years later, you get married).

Today is a red-letter day.

Today is the day that I can finally say I have made myself a "vintage", slim-knit, 100% pure cashmere sweater. For some, that might be simply an interesting occurrence. But for me it is a culmination of so many loves: knitting, fitting, cashmere, ultra-soft textiles, an era gone by.

In truth, I finished it yesterday and it's still blocking (drying in shape). Apologies for a horrid blocking photo, but one that shows you that a) I really do wear shearling slippers all the time and b) I seem to be getting a lot of use out of those much-maligned, handmade socks.

What are my final thoughts about the Princess Jumper?

• It's a very nice sweater that shouldn't be too onerous if you don't decide to fuck with the armsyce length.
• I made the 34, though that was designed with the appropriate ease (so says the designer) for a slim-fit on a 36 bust.
• It would have been way too big in the bust if I'd made the 36 - probably the more "accurate" size for my 37.5 inch full bust circumference.
• Once again, if you're narrow, I have to recommend that you go for a minimum of 4 inches of negative ease in the bust.
• The shape of this sweater is beautiful and the sleeves are surprisingly easy to insert (once their length is determined).

About the seaming?

• I recommend that you find some Knit Klips (which are no longer manufactured, but still able to be found on sites like eBay) to facilitate set in sleeve sewing. Apparently they keep everything together with precision and easing is much easier. Can't confirm that yet, but I have bought a packet for the next time.
• I know that many knitters back stitch when they do their final seaming. Gotta say - and it took me 7 hours to finish this thing, so maybe you want to reconsider my advice - but mattress stitching the seams together (vertical i.e. side seams, horizonal i.e. shoulder seams and combination i.e. sleeve curves) creates a beautiful finished product that, due to the thread weaving, has a maximal amount of structural integrity.
• I'm always amazed to read about the unwillingness of knitters to mattress stitch at the end of a project on the basis that it's too fussy or scary or hard. I can assure you that it is fussy - but in a fun way that will appeal to your OCD, it isn't scary - once you make your peace with it and you set up the seams carefully before beginning and it's sure as hell is not hard. If you can knit a freakin' sweater, you are more than up to seaming it well.
• Seriously peeps, there are SO many free online resources to get you through the finishing phase that you will be amazed. If you've been a back-stitcher to date (and I do know there are times when that stitch is the most appropriate one), make this the year that you switch it up.

About the yarn?

• Oh, cashmere, it is a wonder to touch. Alas, 2-ply yarn, knit on US size 1.5 or 2 needles is a challenge. I'm not going to lie.
• Fingering weight projects take too fucking long, IMO. I can assure you, after the 6 weeks I toiled away on this, I'm going for something worsted next :-) Or at least DK.
• The Jade Sapphire 100% cashmere is delicate. It does develop integrity via knitting, but it's very easy to break it with a wan tug. If you are a tight knitter, I don't think this is your best choice.
• Happily, there were no knots in the yarn so I didn't have any mid-knit joins for that reason.
• However, somehow there were so many loose ends, it took me an hour to weave them in. And that was not easy given I was working with soot-coloured yarn having teeny-tiny stitches.
• I recommend this yarn and I think the finished garment will be greatly enhanced for it, but I don't think it's necessarily worth the expense if you knit tightly or don't adore cashmere.

This marks the end of the Gauge the Situation knitting series, in which I discussed the merits and detractors of knitting 5 sweaters in 4 gauges (fingering, sport, DK and worsted).

I do intend to summarize my findings of this experiment - which weight was my fave, which sweater I like most, which I wear most, what I learned etc. But for now, let's just be grateful that I have finally completed a daunting - if utterly educational - task, with some fabulous wearable garments. Is is scary that I can't remember, off hand, what they are??

Here's hoping you can :-)

Today's questions: What was the subject of your last, crafting "red-letter day"? Which weight of yarn do you prefer to work in? Do you always knit sweaters in the same weight?

I'm so hoping that this will dry by tomorrow - it takes a while in the cold - so that I can wear it in the world for the first time. No doubt, photos are to follow. I'm psyched about this one.

*Props to those of you who know this reference on another red-letter day - that in which 30 Rock's last episode will air.

Finished Project: Sweet Jane Pullover

My Sweet Jane Pullover is finally complete:

Disclaimer: As per all plain stockinette garments, the beauty is in the hand and in how it fits and wears. I can't say that these photos show off this pullover to its best effect. And while it was carefully blocked, it hasn't been worn, which is why the sleeves look vaguely wonky. I did a bit of assertive blocking in the upper arms and you can still see the pin points. They disappear completely when worn, of course.

So, what can I say about this knit?

• It's not difficult but you have got to like short rows because they're everywhere (hem, shoulder shaping, sleeve head).

• It's boring knitting. So, so boring. One perks up at the thought of the short rows, if only for novelty.

• Amy Miller, the designer, most definitely has the tightest gauge on the planet - if her pattern recommendations are anything to go by. As mentioned previously, I had to go down 3 needle sizes and I still obtained a gauge that would produce a finished sweater many inches too large. I think her patterns are quite chic, well-instructed and innovative, but we're at opposite ends of the gauge continuum. As a result, it's unlikely I'll knit one of her patterns again soon. There was too much math and near-constant sizing consideration to justify the simplicity of the end result.

• A propos of the bullet above, there's a point to be made that, if you have to go up or down by more than 2 needle sizes, you're going to have to work hard at reproducing the pattern - unless it's something unfitted, like a scarf, and you like the fabric produced by working with the proposed needle size.

In terms of sizing:

• You must fit this perfectly for you, or it will look hideous. Pay careful attention to the shoulder width - which must align with your shoulder tips exactly. The arms should be fitted too - though perhaps not as extensively as mine are! Note: My Quince Chickadee is very yielding (if springy), so blocking achieved my objective. But I would give myself an extra half-inch of circumference in the upper arm next time, if only to avoid having to assertively block.

• If the length isn't also perfect, you'll look wide or boxy. I blocked the short side to 16" of length, and the long to 23", and I might have gone a bit longer (by an inch) on either side. I actually undid the finished hem at the end - such a pain in the ass once I'd bound off 200 plus stitches in rib - and I added another 5 rows to the rib because it really was shorter than I liked. I'd add another inch still, above the hem short rows, were I to make this again.

• Obvs, this garment has no waist shaping but the pattern instructs A line shaping under the bust. I opted to go straight down from the bust (i.e. 38" all the way) and that toned down the volume. If you are a waif - or you have a small bust - then the true A line may flatter. If you have proportionately large breasts, I suggest you tread carefully with the dimensions. I'm still on the fence about whether I love the fit through my mid-section but I'll have to see how my opinion changes with wear because, one thing I've learned: My relationship to my handmade clothing changes as a garment becomes familiar. I become less critical (and often more pleased) over time. Unless I never wear it, that is.

• I always find it ironic that the hardest sweaters to size are the ones without shaping. Remember the 80s, peeps...

• Unless you have very long arms, you're going to want to cut a number of inches off the length. If I'd worked as the pattern instructed, the ribbing would have covered half my hand (and the instructions are for a 3/4 sleeve?!) Others have corroborated this on Ravelry.

In terms of the yarn (which I've written about many times before):

• Quince Chickadee is a very springy plied yarn. It manages to walk an usual line between "nice" and budget - almost like Cascade, but of somewhat higher quality (not that Cascade is in any way low-quality, but it is mass-produced at a certain price point). This makes it quite a good choice for projects requiring lots of yarn. Quince colours are infinitely better than Cascade's, IMO, and the post-blocked hand of the fabric is firmer. There are no synthetics added to the wool. There is no super washing. Quince holds its shape. It's durable. It's doesn't stretch out notably after blocking. In fact, it tends to shrink a bit. I really love whatever sheep are used to produce this yarn. Unsurprisingly, it has a more Northern feel than a Peruvian yarn. There's nothing halo-y or drapey about it. But it isn't at all like that woolen-spun, toothy/crunchy thing Brooklyn Tweed's got going on. 

• Quince works well for many of the kinds of patterns that appeal to me. It's entirely soft enough to wear against the skin but it doesn't bag out. It's particularly good for cowls, mitts, gloves and hats, btw, because it keeps its shape, it's got great stitch definition and it's warm.

• What I don't love about it is that it's quite robust for weight. The fingering feels like sport to me. The sport, like DK. The DK is almost like worsted. And because it holds its shape and springs back - it's not delicate. It can seem a bit thick. You might wonder why I don't just size down when I use it and, you know, I've considered it. That's probably what I'll do next time. If it were easier for me to buy (I have to order it online), I'd experiment. I wish I didn't have to purchase in large batches to justify the cost (which is still acceptable to me, even with the exchange rate). America-dwellers: You can often find it in store - or with very reasonable shipping - and the price point is fantastic. For you, this yarn is a terrific bargain and I urge you to support your economy.

• Never put this in the dryer unless you want a child-size result at the end. You can machine dry it briefly, when almost air dried (to block it to a smaller size) but be careful.

What I did differently this time:

Usually, when I knit a sweater, I weave in the ends before wet-blocking, because I want a finished garment as soon as its dry. But, as you know, I really don't wear any of the dozens of sweaters I've made (some have been given away, 10 sit in my closet). Once you weave in the ends, unraveling a sweater becomes a very unpleasant and challenging task - like it wouldn't be already, what with undoing a hundred hours of work?! This time, I wanted the option to just rip it back immediately, if the fit wasn't right or if I felt I'd never wear it. Then at least, I figured, I could restash the yarn.

Alas, I have issues with this concept. Even more depressing than sacrificing time, unknitting a newly-complete garment is not appealing on other levels. It feels like mending / alterations to me. Or like watching reruns. I don't like to revisit the past, even if it is ecologically-minded. How can I buy NEW soft, delicious, addicting yarn if I still have masses of it in unwound projects? I mean, if I just unravelled the sweaters in my closet (some of which I do have a strange, sentimental attachment to - if only as learning experiences), I'd have so much stash yarn, I wouldn't know what to do with it. And part of my issue with some of those sweaters is the yarn itself! It may have knit-up nicely but I didn't like working with it.

I recall reading about some guy who actually unravels his latest garment whenever he wants to make a new one, because one is enough. Who has this kind of fortitude and obliviousness to novel tactile experiences?

I did opt to weave in the ends, in the end, because I do think/anticipate/hope this pullover might be worn semi-regularly - not in spite of its plainness, but because of it. It's a neutral-toned, blank slate with interesting lines. Which is generally what I wear. What I can't say is whether my perception of its chunkiness (you know I wear FINE denier, RTW cashmere most of the time) will preclude me from choosing it. And if that happens, really, I'm not making any more sweaters. Not until I get a knitting machine and teach myself how to use it (and given my current lifestyle, this may be many years hence). Famous last words, I realize. But let's see how this goes.

I was concerned that blocking first would produce more visible woven-in ends that wouldn't stick as well (given that water and drying didn't integrate them into the main fabric). I needn't have worried. I actually think it was a bit easier to weave in this order - and the final ends are completely invisible / stay put.

So that's everything I have to say about this project. But what about you? Do you like it? (Feel free to be honest - I mean, I'm not the designer! :-)) Would you wear it? Have you made it? Any thoughts on Quince yarn? Let's talk!

A Word About Knitting and How I Am Insane

Darlings, talk about a horrible Blogger glitch. It was kind of like the apocalypse, but it did give me time to knit without feeling like I should be commenting on all of your awesome posts! It's like that working mother conundrum, just to make an extremely ridiculous comparison: When I'm blogging I want to be knitting. When knitting, I want to be blogging. I always want to be sewing. Strangely, the urge to parent rarely interferes with any of this. :-) Don't worry. The kid makes her needs known.

But this post is about my latest crazy knitting moment.

BTW, before we move on to the new let's do a quick review of the sweater I'm still currently working on. I've finished the back and fronts and I'm now on the sleeves. I don't intend to make the belt (I don't like it), so I'm nearing the blocking stage. Of course, every stage I near fills me with equal parts excitement and trepidation. I've talked with a bunch of long-time knitters, none of whom do complete immersion wet blocking. They feel that iron steam or spray bottle blocking has the same impact. I do want to hear your opinions pls... Oh, and don't think that I haven't considered posting photos of my current work. The thing is, it's really boring to look at a swatch of stockinette stitch. I am confident the finished product will be much more impressive.

OK, onto stories of crazy knitting (or simple craziness)...

I discovered, on Ravelry, that this sweater (which doesn't appear in either volume 1 or the soon-to-be-released volume 2 of A Stitch in Time) is being offered as an enticement to pre-order volume 2:

The Jan Sweater

OMG, really who could live without obtaining this pattern?? I spoke with the knitonthenet people who advised that pre-order of the second volume is non-negotiable for access to it (even if you just bought volume 1 two weeks ago).* Since I do intend to buy the book when it is released, it wasn't too painful to shell out the $53.00 now. And the Jan pattern arrived 5 seconds later!

This is my next project and I am so making it in yellow.

*FYI, there's a UK magazine called The Knitter which will apparently contain the pattern instructions in the next issue, to be released in a few days. I know I want the second volume of A Stitch in Time, so I don't feel like paying $20.00 for the mag now, only to buy the book later. Esp. since the Jan pattern is mine either way. Having said that, you might want to go from the mag.

Shop Versus Drop

The Svalbard is almost finished wet-blocking - a state for which I am grateful because knitting it drove me to distraction. In full disclosure, I am at my most compulsive in late winter (just before the spring arrives). Alas, in 2014 this may bode particularly badly as the winter is likely never to end and then I may have to insane-craft forever. My body needs a break, to say nothing of my brain.

On the plus side, I knit up an advanced-design in 3 weeks.

Photos to come, natch, but while I wait for the creature to stitch-set, I'll tell you about a few new purchases. Remember when I got pertussis and all I did for 3 5 months was to online shop by way of making myself feel like I would live to see another year? Well, I'm not quite at that state of shopping to mood alter*, but this winter is so phenomenally demoralizing that it's all I can do to stop myself from buying a new house in an entirely different country. When you consider that kind of damage, buying some yarn and shoes doesn't seem so extreme.

For starters: yarn. Look, I love to buy small-batch hand-dyed yarns at the LYS or at online boutiques but I knit a lot and so I choose to stock the basics. When I purchase for a specific project, I'm apt to buy very specific yarn. But I need sizable stash for when the mood strikes to, say, make a sweater on a whim. I try always to have 1000 yards of fingering and sport/dk on hand, in chic neutrals, for those moments. Since I just knit 2 sweaters, using stash yarn, I'm in the market for a top up.

My go-to yarn, for this purpose, is Quince and Co. - specifically Chickadee (the dk/sport weight) and Finch (the fingering). The yarn is reliable, strong, well-dyed (if not hand-dyed), comes in numerous beautiful colours, does not have a halo, does not tend to pill, recovers to size after blocking and supports a local economy (if not mine). Furthermore, the price is very reasonable. It's the highest-quality yarn at the price-point, IMO. And the shipping charges are reasonable.

Which is why I bought these:

Finch in Petal - when you see this knit, it's a very pale pink...

Finch in Twig

Petal isn't a colour I would generally go for - it's a very cool, ballet pink. But I think it will go perfectly as an accent colour for the Twig - and with these, I can make another version of the yoked Indicum Pullover (a sweater  I love, even though, last time I made it I used the wrong yarn). I can also use the Petal to pair beautifully with the extra skeins I have of Slate and Lichen. And one of these days I'm going to have occasion to knit another baby gift. What colour yarn could be better for that?

I bought the sport/dk weight in Storm, a blue tinged grey (as opposed to Slate - which used for the blocking Svalbard - a grey-tinged blue):

Chickadee in Storm - when you see this knit, it's a grey...

Additionally, and on a whim (since you know I am an online adventurer), after considering the Ferragamo bow flat for a long while, and then seeing it look totally chic on a woman of my age at the coffee shop, I decided to take the plunge with these:

Etsy Vendor: Feelz Like Home

Note: I love buying mega-$ shoes on Etsy, pre-loved (or even vintage), because I can try out a venerable brand (one that's supposed to produce long-lived goods) at a fraction of the cost. Ain't no way I'm spending 600 bucks on a pair of bow flats. (That's how much they sell for here...) I mean, I may not even find a meaningful way to include them in my wardrobe. But at 50 bucks (for a very gently used version), I can experiment with little repercussion.

Having said this, these shoes may not fit me in the end. The label indicates that the shoe is narrow and, though my foot measures a scant 0.2" wider than the shoeprint - and I strongly suspect the soft leather will relent - I might be wrong. Note: The Ferragamos I bought about 18 months ago, also via Etsy, have the exact same width measurement and those shoes do fit. I don't often wear those, however, because the heel is just too high for walking to work.

Finally, since I seem to be on a ballet pink kick, I purchased some more pretty buttons:

Etsy Vendor: Add Vintage

Sure, I hate making clothing with buttonholes, but you can never have too many pretty vintage buttons, right?

So, North Americans compatriots (stuck in a polar vortex): How are you managing not to kill yourselves over the misery of this weather? Are you shopping? Eating? Traveling? All of the above? Are you just made of grit and fortitude? I wanna know!

* To clarify, shopping to mood alter is not stupid shopping. I continue to subscribe to the belief that one should aim to buy the meaningful things. For me, those are craft building-blocks, things that are sustainable or edible (ahem) or things that enrich one's ability to live in the world (books). And lingerie is always fair game.

The Sweater Tee Update

In full disclosure, there are no photos of the SNCS Tee yet cuz the freakin' sweater pin still has not arrived. I'm almost about to get worried. But not quite.

This post is to tell you a bit more about the pattern - what I did right, what I could have done better...

Overview

• I decided to make the XS (thank God cuz this thing fits very large by everyone's estimation). I don't understand how all of the measurements from the schematic matched up mathematically in accordance with gauge - and still the overall outcome is large. Note: I was knitting slightly tighter than the gauge, so that outcome is even less comprehensible. All I can say is that most people on Ravelry note the same concern. So beware...
• I used Debbie Bliss Rialto DK - which goes insanely limp as soon as it hits water. It's totally disturbing. Add that to the large fit factor (see above) and this XS fits, well, suboptimally.
• Given that, in accordance with the schematic, the XS was supposed to be 34" in the bust (as opposed to my 37"), I decided - after much debate and recognizing that I basically had no choice - to sew horizontal bust darts using short rows.
  
• While the link (above) shows you how to do the wraps and turns that comprise short rows, they don't tell you how to determine the number or placement of short rows within a garment. That's a big-time process that took me a few hours with a calculator and I could not have done it without the bonus tutorial in this Craftsy course. Seriously, if you have large boobs and you knit, you need to take this class.
• It's well worth it to learn the method for inserting horizontal bust darts (an additive process in knitting, rather than the reductive process that sewn darting employs). Even though you'll need to figure out the specifics for each pattern, the premise is the same - as are the baseline calculations. I'm choosing to believe that it's hard the first time, and progressively easy thereafter.

The Good

• I am super proud of myself for taking the time to figure out all of the convoluted details involved in creating the short rows. They worked well: They look good and the depth of the darts is just right.
• I also shortened the sweater from the bust to waist and waist to hip - and increased or decreased the stitch count to create curves that match my own. Really, I redesigned this pattern and it worked!
  
• The yarn knit very nicely - relatively little splitting (though it is known for splitting) and excellent stitch definition.
• I determined how to make the trim a bit slimmer and to ensure that the facing (the inner hem) wasn't too long. See my Ravelry post for more technical deets.
• I think that the camel/black colour scheme is rather chic.
• I found the perfect sweater clasp and, if it ever arrives, I'm sure it's going to work well at the neck...

The Bad

• The yarn did not respond as planned to the wet blocking. I suppose I should have blocked my swatch. Live and learn. Now I have to decide if I ever intend to use this yarn again. Or, if I do, how I'll make future garments adequately small to accommodate the yarn-grow.
• When knitting the yoke (the top part of this top-down garment) I artificially altered my tension to get gauge. (My natural tension was slightly tighter than it should have been.) This totally screwed with the fabric and created unnecessary lumps and bumps (which, thankfully, largely blocked out). As soon as I realized this, I stopped trying to work my will on the fabric. They tell you not to try to change your gauge -and now I know why...
• Never mind how things grew in the blocking, the pattern is dowdily large-fitting. I made the smallest size and it was still large. I don't know that I'd recommend it - even though the model looks great...
• The yarn - which I did love till I blocked it - and which looks great even after being heat dried (size notwithstanding) - does seem to show the transition from skein to skein. This is despite taking special care when aiming to weave in the ends seamlessly. Not a selling feature.

So, have any of you worked with Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (or any of the other weights of this brand)? If yes, what was your experience of the yarn? Has anyone made this pattern with similar results? Have you short rowed to insert horizontal bust darts? How did it go? Let's chat...