This post is to tell you a bit more about the pattern - what I did right, what I could have done better...
- I decided to make the XS (thank God cuz this thing fits very large by everyone's estimation). I don't understand how all of the measurements from the schematic matched up mathematically in accordance with gauge - and still the overall outcome is large. Note: I was knitting slightly tighter than the gauge, so that outcome is even less comprehensible. All I can say is that most people on Ravelry note the same concern. So beware...
- I used Debbie Bliss Rialto DK - which goes insanely limp as soon as it hits water. It's totally disturbing. Add that to the large fit factor (see above) and this XS fits, well, suboptimally.
- Given that, in accordance with the schematic, the XS was supposed to be 34" in the bust (as opposed to my 37"), I decided - after much debate and recognizing that I basically had no choice - to sew horizontal bust darts using short rows.
- While the link (above) shows you how to do the wraps and turns that comprise short rows, they don't tell you how to determine the number or placement of short rows within a garment. That's a big-time process that took me a few hours with a calculator and I could not have done it without the bonus tutorial in this Craftsy course. Seriously, if you have large boobs and you knit, you need to take this class.
- It's well worth it to learn the method for inserting horizontal bust darts (an additive process in knitting, rather than the reductive process that sewn darting employs). Even though you'll need to figure out the specifics for each pattern, the premise is the same - as are the baseline calculations. I'm choosing to believe that it's hard the first time, and progressively easy thereafter.
- I am super proud of myself for taking the time to figure out all of the convoluted details involved in creating the short rows. They worked well: They look good and the depth of the darts is just right.
- I also shortened the sweater from the bust to waist and waist to hip - and increased or decreased the stitch count to create curves that match my own. Really, I redesigned this pattern and it worked!
- The yarn knit very nicely - relatively little splitting (though it is known for splitting) and excellent stitch definition.
- I determined how to make the trim a bit slimmer and to ensure that the facing (the inner hem) wasn't too long. See my Ravelry post for more technical deets.
- I think that the camel/black colour scheme is rather chic.
- I found the perfect sweater clasp and, if it ever arrives, I'm sure it's going to work well at the neck...
- The yarn did not respond as planned to the wet blocking. I suppose I should have blocked my swatch. Live and learn. Now I have to decide if I ever intend to use this yarn again. Or, if I do, how I'll make future garments adequately small to accommodate the yarn-grow.
- When knitting the yoke (the top part of this top-down garment) I artificially altered my tension to get gauge. (My natural tension was slightly tighter than it should have been.) This totally screwed with the fabric and created unnecessary lumps and bumps (which, thankfully, largely blocked out). As soon as I realized this, I stopped trying to work my will on the fabric. They tell you not to try to change your gauge -and now I know why...
- Never mind how things grew in the blocking, the pattern is dowdily large-fitting. I made the smallest size and it was still large. I don't know that I'd recommend it - even though the model looks great...
- The yarn - which I did love till I blocked it - and which looks great even after being heat dried (size notwithstanding) - does seem to show the transition from skein to skein. This is despite taking special care when aiming to weave in the ends seamlessly. Not a selling feature.