In Which I Mimic The Colour Palette of the Great Outdoors

Hey y'all - it's quiet times here cuz things are just so busy everywhere else. And really, a girl needs a blog break every once in a while.

Just want to say a quick hello - and to let you know that normal programming should be back in a week or so.

In the meanwhile, here's a photo to show you a) my finished Aisance cardigan and b) my (soon to be blogged about) skinny sweat pants from Roots.

(I really am making an effort to show my face here even when I'm not feeling gorgeous...)

Mega thanks to Andrea for taking lots o' pics and for so excellently hosting me and Sara at her new home in the County last weekend.

Summer Crafting: Finished Object (Aisance Cardigan)

So I finished the Aisance Cardigan, as I mentioned recently. While my goal was to show you a photo of this on my actual body, I'm so truly occupied right now that it just won't happen till it happens.

In the interest of documenting something, however, please see obligatory photos on sub-optimal-dress-form-that's-too-wide:

Honestly, my shoulders are a good 4 inches less wide than these - and my arms don't pop out in that bizarre way just below the shoulder. It's hard to tell how nicely this would fit a frame of the correct proportions, but please do try... 

While the front panels look wrinkled, it's an illusion - I swear.

What I can say, now that I've blocked and worn this garment is that, while it really does nothing for the dress form, it's rather attractive on a human being. Not that you should take my word for it.

Final thoughts on the garment:

• It grew in length more than I would have liked, and I sense, given the drape and heaviness of the front panels of fabric, it may continue to do so. Sure, I can steam it to shrink, as necessary, but I wish I'd taken another 2 inches of length out of the front panels via more stringent short-rowing (I mean, over and above the short-row shenanigans I did engage in, see Ravelry notes). It would have been easy to do (and would have saved me yarn and time). The reason I didn't go harder is because I'd already removed so much length from the garment (as per pattern directions) that I was scared to overdo it. Sometimes, it's best to listen to your intuition.

• I called the horizontal measurements and other proportions perfectly, however. Given that this sweater tends towards the large in all directions, I do feel happy about this outcome.

• The yarn, for it's length-wise growi-ness, is just gorgeous. I'm not sure if you can detect it's silk sheen, but it looks like a million bucks. I will definitely use this yarn again - though I hope it doesn't tend towards pilling (which only time will tell).

• The success of this garment, overall, will be in the wearing. Alas, this isn't going to happen until the fall (I suspect). Do I love it as much as I hoped I would? No. But I can't complain. It's a lovely, minimal, elegant, luxe cardigan and if I can manage to wear it often, I suspect I'll learn to appreciate it fully.

So that's one project down. Next up, more on the Nettie assembly line experience. Thoughts about the Aisance?

Summer Crafting: A Finished Object

Don't get too excited. I can't show you a photo of the Aisance (my latest finished project) till it's done blocking, which won't be for at least 36 hours, what with the humidity, yarn properties and dimensions of the garment.

Mind you, I can tell you about my experience in this post, and wow you with the photos in the next :-)

As a reminder, here's what the cardi looks like:

Oooh, pretty back shaping!

But first let's talk about the yarn...

Shibui Staccato

I like to think of myself as the ambassador for Shibui Staccato, cuz it is fine. I think it's fair to call it silk blend perfection, which is high praise coming from someone who doesn't like silk yarn.

(Side Note: I hate it when I have to concede that my long-held opinions aren't founded. Well, apparently I don't hate it that much, cuz somehow I do it on a regular basis.)

In fact, I was so psyched by the yarn (and the swatch really spoke for itself), that both Sara and Andrea opted to work with it on this project as well! A propos of this, the Aisance is another of those projects that Sara, Andrea and I will make together (but separately) as a knit along. Sara finished hers last week. Andrea is still waiting on her yarn (and is exceedingly occupied doing serious work on a new home in the County) and, well, now you know where I'm at.

The only thing I don't like about this yarn is that, in flat-worked stockinette, it's challenging to tension. I'm not one of those knitters who observes a difference in tension between knit and purl rows, but with the Staccato, it was very tricky to keep the purling as firm as the knitting. That's a feature of the slippery texture of silk (along with metal needles and cold weather) and my own skill as a knitter. I certainly wouldn't avoid it for that reason - unless you struggle with tension on a regular basis.

Staccato (like any silk yarn) does grow a bit (though not as extensively as other silks), particularly length-wise, when blocked. This is a consideration when making a cardigan with long front panels that are weighty.

Which takes us to a review of the sweater itself:

• I went down a needle size to get horizontal gauge (after blocking). I didn't even try with vertical gauge, I adjusted that on the fly.

• Nonetheless, the pattern is very large - it's drafted for 0-2 inches of positive ease - but I could easily have made the smallest size, on a smaller needle, and got a well-fitting garment (particularly after blocking). However, I made the second smallest size (32.5) for the body and the smallest size (30.5) for the sleeves, and it seems to be fine. To clarify: I went down 3 sizes in the body and 4 sizes in the sleeves and it fits, potentially slightly too large. Again, post-blocking will be the real test but I planned for some growth of the yarn as it sets and blooms during drying. Sara feels that the sleeves are oversized, as written, and suggests sizing down.

• Furthermore, the pattern suggests WAY more yarn than one requires at size. I used 400 yards less than the pattern calls for. That's an expensive pattern glitch, dare I say it. I spent 40 bucks more in yarn than I needed to. I used 6 skeins, vs. the 9 I was advised I'd require.

• Quince patterns aren't badly written, but they're not my fave. They're no Brooklyn Tweed. Perhaps the most annoying element of the entire construction process was using the errata correction, in the back shaping set up, only to discover - after the fact - that it's wrong?! The errata is in errata. Not cool, people. I have a booboo on the back body that I couldn't fix after the fact without seriously fucking up the tension. It's small, but it irritates me.

• As I wrote in a previous post, this isn't a difficult pattern, but I would change things if I were to make it again: I hate provisional cast on and I'd prefer a true seam at the back neck (vs. the weirdness the pattern suggests). This sweater has an easy way about it, construction-wise, but it does turn into a stockinette slog (and then a stockinette meets rib slog) once you get to the point that you put the sleeves on waste yarn. Having said this, the end result is a substantial, if simple, sweater with architectural lines.

As mentioned, shortly I'll post photos of this when the blocking is done - maybe even photos of me wearing it (gasp)! I do hope that I like it as much as I did when first I saw the pattern photos.

So, today's questions: Have you made this sweater? If yes, how do you feel about the end result? Would you make this sweater? Thoughts about Shibui Staccato? Let's talk!

Summer Crafting: The High-Level Plan

I could probably craft from now till October and not finish all of my imaginary projects. Alas, one's got to make choices - even with the leisure activities - so I've put together a list of sewing and knitting to take me from here till summer's end. 

Sewing

Hepworth Dress (Sinbad and Sailor):  

OK, this one was NOT on my list until last weekend. But, having made Allison's dress, and finding that the fit was unintentionally close to my dimensions, I cannot resist giving it a go. It helps that I've got a fabric I believe will work very well. I'm going to lead with this garment since I've just tackled a version and it's fresh in my memory. Also, it's very useful for summer weather. With a cropped cardigan, it's perfect for work or weekends.

Fabric:

Rayon Challis with 10% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Rosie Top (StyleArc): 

Well, you know this one's been in play for quite a while. I ran out of fabric, then I had to make the "bridesmaid dress" (if we can call it that)... But it's time to return to this "reverse princess seam" top. (Note how the lines are convex rather than concave to the centre front of the top.)

I'm at the next muslin moment but, if this top fails again, I may well put it away for the summer. I'm not interested in arguing with my creative endeavours. Five muslins is enough, IMO.

Fabric:

Silk Crepe with 15% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Originally, my intention was to muslin use the rayon crepe (above), and I likely still will. However, my intended fabric is a beautiful silk crepe, reminiscent of the one gifted to me by S, my fitting friend. Be assured, I will not cut into this until I'm confident about the garment fit.

Rachel Comey Pants - V1323 (VoguePatterns): 

These are the pants I've been dared to make by Sara. In truth, I like them, so I'm game. Really, who doesn't like elastic waistbands when they're used intentionally, and as a design feature. My hope is that the fitting isn't too tricky given that I've done some work on crotch curves with other stretch woven pants patterns.

Fabric: 

Royal Blue Stretch Broadcloth with 50% crosswise stretch

This broadcloth has a lot of stretch, though it is a woven (so it's suitable for these pants). As it happens, I am not overly thrilled with the weight of the fabric, or the quality. But I think it will work well for pants that need a very light hand.

Leather Tote (Making Leather Bags Craftsy Course): 

Well, I've talked this one up a lot. Now I've just got to make the thing! All of my notions, materials and gizmos are amassed. I'm truly excited to use my new roller foot. It's like Lego!

Materials:

Read more about these materials here...

Leather Skirt (from TNT high-waisted pencil skirt V8640): 

I've decided to cut my teeth on leather (as it were) with the bag (above). But once that's done, my goal is to make a sexy leather skirt. What better pattern to use than my standard high-waisted pencil? No need to reinvent the wheel...

Materials:

Read more about this lambskin from King Textiles in the Garment District

This absurdly gorgeous leather has a LOT of give because it is very soft lambskin. I do intend to line the skirt (at least partially) but that adds another element of complexity.

And if there's time...
 

My bonus pattern is the compelling Nettie body suit, which is SO my scene:

I seem to be very into the electric blues, lately, because this is the (long-loved) stash fabric I would likely use:

Jewel Blue modal (really, it's more purple than blue...) from Fabric Mart (I think)

Knitting

Aisance Cardigan (Kristen Johnstone): 

As you know, I'm currently working on this cardigan, a pattern I hope to complete before the end of June. As such, I'm including it in the Summer Crafting category. I figure, it spans the gap between spring and summer - and it is a substantial project.

Yarn:  

Shibui Staccato in Caffeine

Karner Wrap (Americo Original Design Team): July will be a wildcard month for me, from a crafting perspective, due to some interesting adventures I'm not at liberty to discuss (yet). Nonetheless, I do hope to have this stockinette shawl to keep my hands busy. Apparently it takes a very long time since it uses 1000 yards of laceweight yarn... Really, the pattern is not exciting. Mind you, the yarn is spectacular…

Yarn: 

Americo Original Abrazos Lace in Blue Ink from the Americo store in TO (the only one)

I never realized what a hub of amazing knitting options Toronto happens to be. Really, when it comes to yarn and leather, we have it going on! Americo, a store I've gone into on a few occasions, has never called to me the way it did on a recent visit. In the past, textured fibers have been a turn-off - as has cotton (a prevalent fiber in Americo yarns).  But I've lived to regret saying never, craft-wise, on a variety of occasions. Let's call this one of them.

See that amazing texture built into the yarn? It creates a distressed, almost burnout effect. And the colour is special - moody grey with blue subnotes. As you know, cotton is my least favourite knitting material on the planet (other than linen), but somehow, this cotton/bamboo blend has a beautiful drape (without being limp). It also has a nice feel – it’s not stringy.

And if there's time...

I'm utterly intrigued by this (small) garment, even if it is lacework:

Die Cut Vest by Sara Morris from Knit.Wear (the only knitting mag consistently worth buying, IMO)

It calls for a linen. That's not happening. I hate linen. It's like knitting with kitchen string. So who knows what I'd use instead? 

The Proviso
 

Needless to say, I reserve the right to change my mind. I mean, it's my freakin' hobby. In fact, since first I envisioned this list (a month ago), I've added to it, moved stuff around and removed the outliers. And who can say? I may decide that I don't feel like working indoors if the weather actually one day goes summery. 

Today's questions: Do you make a list of summer crafting projects? If yes, do you stick to it? And, while I'm asking... What do you think of my chosen projects? Which of these is your fave? Let's talk!

Spring Knitting: Aisance Cardigan

It would serve us well were I to put together a detailed post to tell you all about my spring and summer crafting plans. But that would take organization, and I'm more busy doing things than writing about them these days.

Needless to say, there will be sewing and knitting and this summer, my express goal is to learn new skills. The leather bag is one sewing project (techique: sewing with leather). Completion of the Rosie top (one that fits) is another (technique: fitting woven bodice sloper).

As it happens, I am overwhelmed with creative ideas. Maybe it's on account of moving from the kind of dead winter that wracked the back off of my century home (let's not talk about what that entails and how much it's likely going to cost to fix) into a spring that still feels a bit like winter (but with more light). Maybe it's because I haven't had a headache - of any description - for 3 months, the longest I've gone without being addled with head pain in more than three years.

I'm loath even to mention that because I cannot bring myself to get attached to a pain-free head. But just to keep it real, in the exact moment my headaches disappeared (on a dime), I discovered a new symptom on the bumpy road of perimenopause. I've been dealing with rather wretched digestive issues that impinge on my physical freedom in a totally new-to-me way. Estrogen balance influences serotonin levels and serotonin lives mostly in two places: the brain and the gut. On the plus side, everyone agrees that it's better to go from having crushing migraines to digestive misery than the other way around. And we have a game plan for dealing with the latter.

But I digress...

Here's the sweater I'm knitting right now:

Aisance by Kristen Johnstone

After finishing the Svalbard - a sweater I had misgivings about on the basis of shape - I realize that it's my go-to hand knit these days. Sure, the shape may not be my most naturally flattering, but it works in my wardrobe.

This is another yarn hog pattern - one which I have not cheaped out on. I've gone with this silk-merino blend:

Shibui Staccato in Caffeine

BTW, this is another project that Sara and Andrea and I will undertake as a mini-KAL (in our own time). They've also bought this yarn, which is phenomenal, for what it's worth. I have to wait to see how it wears, before I weigh in definitively, but the bloom and drape of the fabric it makes are perfect for the Aisance. It's fantastic looking yarn that does not grow overly when blocked, that doesn't get cloudy (a propensity of silk yarn which I hate), and that looks like a million bucks.

On the topic of local sourcing, the three of us got this yarn from Ewe Knit (our LYS) which stocks an array of colours (intriguingly, at the best price we've been able to find for the brand). Claudia, the owner, has special-ordered out-of-stock colours for Andrea and Sara, which is why I've got the head start.

A couple of things I'll say about the Aisance:

This pattern is delicious to knit - a bit interesting, but not overly. Perfect for TV or chatting with friends... I will say, however, that I wish I hadn't followed the directions at the start - those for making the neckband. As far as I'm concerned, provisional cast on is a terrible method to use with rib - as, by nature, it always creates a jog in stitches (see this useful post for information about why that's the case). You won't notice it with blocked stockinette, but this method is totally observable on the rib back-neck of this sweater - in much the way a seam would be. Mind you, at least a seam would make the join strong! Furthermore, this method means that one creates two different slip-stitch edges on each side of the cardigan - something that offends my sense of order completely. I've strongly recommended to Sara and Andrea to simply seam the centre back,which will mitigate both of these issues. Too late for me, alas.

Re: provisional cast on - and I taught myself to crochet for the privilege of completely irritating the crap out of myself - I can imagine that there are times when this method is just the thing. However, I think those times are far and few between. I've used it twice in the 3 years I've been knitting and I've been unimpressed both times...

Having said all of this, I do appreciate the way the sweater comes together - not dissimilarly to the Svalbard in its construction (though FAR more easily). You don't need to knit the band at the end - a very tedious way to finish a sweater, I assure you - instead you knit it as you go. And the back of the sweater has both rib stitch and shaping, to give it an excellent stability and an elegant line. I'm really hope I called the size right, and that this finished garment will become a summer staple.

Today's questions: What are your thoughts about provisional cast on (doing it, the result it achieves etc.)? What do you think of this sweater pattern? And have you worked with Shibui yarns? Thoughts or feelings? Let's talk!