Grown-Up Clothing

Yesterday I wandered into Black Goat* without the slightest intent of purchasing anything - I went with my friend (who bought a gorgeous knit casmere poncho that she is NUTS about). Not sure if you're familiar with this Canadian brand... The Toronto shop opened last year but, till recently, I wasn't aware that hails from out West (Vancouver) and that there are 3 other stores - 2 in Van and 1 in Victoria. Here's the thing: While the Western Canadians have it all going on with the textiles and design (especially the chic technical/athletic all-weather garments), before now,  I really didn't think to pair "insanely delicate Mongolian cashmere" and "Vancouver" in the same sentence. I mean, cashmere is one of those things you don't want getting misted by regular rain showers and drizzle, right?

No mind, some nice BC lady is obviously very knowledgeable and very well-funded and now we have Black Goat to add to the Canadian fine knitwear scene, spearheaded by the stalwart, ça va de soi. It's a worthy competitor and, while the prices are in no way discount, Black Goat's quality and cost are entirely well-aligned.

So I had no plans as I walked into that pretty, nice-smelling store, but - to pass the time - I tried on a gorgeous wrap and, before I knew it, I was transfixed. It was love at first touch. I have never felt cashmere like this before. Take a moment to consider that because I feel all the cashmere in all the places where it can be found. I knit with it, I own it in scarves, sweaters, shawls, and the slimmest Ts. Sometimes, I seriously consider raising a cashmere goat and harvesting its fiber. I search for it on bolts at textile stores, to no effect.

People, I have never felt a piece of fabric that rivals this. It almost melted in my hand. It made me want to cry. Its pattern was utter perfection - colours cool and saturated simultaneously. No photo can do it justice, alas, but here's a shot of the print from the website:

Black Goat Printed Shawl in Orchids

It was at that moment that I realized that, if you love gardens, you should probably wear them, preferably close to the face, where deep and muted hues will no doubt conspire to make you look dewy and fresh.

But I walked away because what do I need of a mind-blowingly delicate cashmere shawl that's 200" x 65" on a freakin' ecru background? What am I, a lady of luxury? A fashion mag editor-in-chief?

Alas, the heady desire to feel and admire that fabric persisted. All evening I scoured the website. I did the tax math in my head. I imagined scenarios in which I might wear it in different ways, with different outfits (Breton stripes, other florals, pale solids). Eventually, I pulled out my ever-trusty, endgame excuse to justify every potential inexcusable purchase: I don't own a car! So really, I'm saving zillions of dollars a year!

And then I went back to the store today and bought the fucking thing because I didn't want to live without it - because I knew that outcome would only yield regret:

FYI, I'm 46. I don't do regret anymore.

*I urge you to check out all of the shawl colourways, if just to see the array of options. Everyone of them is fantastic in its own way.

My Sweater Is Blocking Is Blocking*

There are red-letter days: When, as an adolescent, you go out shopping and for lunch with friends for the first time. When you kick ass in an interview and they offer you the job on the spot. When you make a fancy meal for your new boyfriend and it's totally awesome (and then, 5 years later, you get married).

Today is a red-letter day.

Today is the day that I can finally say I have made myself a "vintage", slim-knit, 100% pure cashmere sweater. For some, that might be simply an interesting occurrence. But for me it is a culmination of so many loves: knitting, fitting, cashmere, ultra-soft textiles, an era gone by.

In truth, I finished it yesterday and it's still blocking (drying in shape). Apologies for a horrid blocking photo, but one that shows you that a) I really do wear shearling slippers all the time and b) I seem to be getting a lot of use out of those much-maligned, handmade socks.

What are my final thoughts about the Princess Jumper?

• It's a very nice sweater that shouldn't be too onerous if you don't decide to fuck with the armsyce length.
• I made the 34, though that was designed with the appropriate ease (so says the designer) for a slim-fit on a 36 bust.
• It would have been way too big in the bust if I'd made the 36 - probably the more "accurate" size for my 37.5 inch full bust circumference.
• Once again, if you're narrow, I have to recommend that you go for a minimum of 4 inches of negative ease in the bust.
• The shape of this sweater is beautiful and the sleeves are surprisingly easy to insert (once their length is determined).

About the seaming?

• I recommend that you find some Knit Klips (which are no longer manufactured, but still able to be found on sites like eBay) to facilitate set in sleeve sewing. Apparently they keep everything together with precision and easing is much easier. Can't confirm that yet, but I have bought a packet for the next time.
• I know that many knitters back stitch when they do their final seaming. Gotta say - and it took me 7 hours to finish this thing, so maybe you want to reconsider my advice - but mattress stitching the seams together (vertical i.e. side seams, horizonal i.e. shoulder seams and combination i.e. sleeve curves) creates a beautiful finished product that, due to the thread weaving, has a maximal amount of structural integrity.
• I'm always amazed to read about the unwillingness of knitters to mattress stitch at the end of a project on the basis that it's too fussy or scary or hard. I can assure you that it is fussy - but in a fun way that will appeal to your OCD, it isn't scary - once you make your peace with it and you set up the seams carefully before beginning and it's sure as hell is not hard. If you can knit a freakin' sweater, you are more than up to seaming it well.
• Seriously peeps, there are SO many free online resources to get you through the finishing phase that you will be amazed. If you've been a back-stitcher to date (and I do know there are times when that stitch is the most appropriate one), make this the year that you switch it up.

About the yarn?

• Oh, cashmere, it is a wonder to touch. Alas, 2-ply yarn, knit on US size 1.5 or 2 needles is a challenge. I'm not going to lie.
• Fingering weight projects take too fucking long, IMO. I can assure you, after the 6 weeks I toiled away on this, I'm going for something worsted next :-) Or at least DK.
• The Jade Sapphire 100% cashmere is delicate. It does develop integrity via knitting, but it's very easy to break it with a wan tug. If you are a tight knitter, I don't think this is your best choice.
• Happily, there were no knots in the yarn so I didn't have any mid-knit joins for that reason.
• However, somehow there were so many loose ends, it took me an hour to weave them in. And that was not easy given I was working with soot-coloured yarn having teeny-tiny stitches.
• I recommend this yarn and I think the finished garment will be greatly enhanced for it, but I don't think it's necessarily worth the expense if you knit tightly or don't adore cashmere.

This marks the end of the Gauge the Situation knitting series, in which I discussed the merits and detractors of knitting 5 sweaters in 4 gauges (fingering, sport, DK and worsted).

I do intend to summarize my findings of this experiment - which weight was my fave, which sweater I like most, which I wear most, what I learned etc. But for now, let's just be grateful that I have finally completed a daunting - if utterly educational - task, with some fabulous wearable garments. Is is scary that I can't remember, off hand, what they are??

Here's hoping you can :-)

Today's questions: What was the subject of your last, crafting "red-letter day"? Which weight of yarn do you prefer to work in? Do you always knit sweaters in the same weight?

I'm so hoping that this will dry by tomorrow - it takes a while in the cold - so that I can wear it in the world for the first time. No doubt, photos are to follow. I'm psyched about this one.

*Props to those of you who know this reference on another red-letter day - that in which 30 Rock's last episode will air.

Gifted

I just received the most awesome gift.

(I will post a photo, but in the interests of telling you about it right this minute, you'll have to imagine it...)

Mardel - she of impeccable taste fame - has sent me a yard (though it seems like more) of reversible cashmere knit fabric - slate grey on one side, fuchsia on the other. Imagine a sweater you might spend a zillion dollars on at Neiman Marcus. It could be made out of this knit. It's probably the nicest fabric I've had the pleasure to own.

Now I just need to find a) the perfect pattern and b) the courage to cut into it.

This post is a kind of preamble to a great giveaway I'm going to tell you about very soon. All I can say is that it has something to do with Mardel and something to do with an item you will want to own.

PS: Can anyone tell me where to find very high-end knit fabrics that can be purchased online? Preferably ones that won't cost 50 bucks in shipping alone...

Clip Trip

The inimitable Patty wrote a great post today that reminds me of this one I wrote back in 2009. You know, I just wore my Cashin sweater this week. It's not something that sees a ton of action, but it makes semi-regular occurrences. I love it tremendously with every wear. That's intelligent fashion.

EuroLoot: Coral Cashmere - Paris

Why save the best for last, I say?

This is perhaps the most fantastic cashmere I've ever bought. Three-ply and insanely soft, there was NO. FUCKING. WAY I was leaving Paris boutique, Sandro, without it.

Ever heard of Sandro? It's a Paris-born chain (for want of a better term) that's gone Europe-wide (and will go international soon). The link shows photos of the very place I shopped - and it doesn't do it justice. What a pleasantly adult experience.

I've rarely spent more on a single item of clothing than on this, but on those I have, they were also cashmere - or fur. It's a perfect, vibrant coral - and I don't even like coral!? - that goes so well with my skin tone it floored me. Hell, it floored the sales associate, a friendly though reserved, totally attractive French guy who (frankly) didn't have the acting skills to fake his reaction.

Check out the asymmetric front on this thing, and the side vents. To me, it says: "I have so many other pieces of glorious cashmere, I've decided to go with the most insane cut and colour that a turtle neck has ever seen".

I love the rib and those little holes that sit atop it. They give a luxe texture to the knit.

And here am I, at De Kas (the best restaurant I've been to in a long time), having just finished a glass of Champagne with lemon verbena sprigs, unsure of what would come next - but certain I would not be disappointed:

Not a bad backdrop, huh?

Cashin In...

How freakin' gorgeous is this candy-pink cashmere sweater? I almost shrieked when I saw it while shopping with Hilary this weekend. I tried to get her to buy it (note: she bought some other incredibly cool vintage including a fantastic asymmetric blazer thing from Romeo Gigli circa 1989) but she could not be convinced. So I knew I'd have to give it a loving home. My friends, it was designed by Bonnie Cashin - pioneer of American RTW. Is that not awesome??

Check out the colour and the cropped sleeves and the cylindrical buttons!

It was made for the chicest of Holt Renfrew ladies, in Scotland by Bonnie Cashin at Ballantyne, in the early 60's. She designed there from '64-'68.

See the ribboning at the seams. That's why it's kept its shape for 45+ years.

It's even under the armpit - talk about dedication to the art of sweater manufacturing.

Apparently, the buyer for I Miss You, undoubtedly the best vintage store I've ever seen anywhere (you'd never know it wasn't new stuff except it's all one of a kind), got it along with 3 other fab sweaters at an estate sale in Rosedale recently. I can only imagine what this little swatch of cashmere has seen.

Each of the sweaters was utterly darling - and flattering. One, in camel (by Pringle), had a gorgeous bow at the collar. Another was pumkin-coloured. And all of them were cropped in this way. (Apparently, their former owner knew what she liked.) I would happily have bought them all (you know I am telling the truth) but, alas, at $110.00 each, that was not in the cards. Unfortunate really, as they are perfect pieces; cheap at the price, though pricey.

I've been shopping at I Miss You for years now. Every time I take a friend - and I've taken many - she comes out with at least 4 stunning and life-changing pieces.

Hilly and I discussed how much the vintage reminded us of her incredibly stylish mother, a woman who was wearing Yamamoto with Hermes almost 25 years ago... What a lovely day we had.

Achilles Heel

Club Monaco Italian Cashmere Collection

It's Italian and it's cashmere. How I haven't run off to Club Monaco to buy the whole freakin' line is beyond me. And though I've been back twice, to check out the gorgeous long sweater / short tunic with pockets (circled above), I've resisted so far. Cuz the only thing better than getting cashmere is getting it for less than the original price of $169.00.

Let me be the first to say that, if I didn't already own so much cashmere it's obnoxious - or so much grey that it's verging on black - I would snap this baby up at retail. The price is by no means unreasonable for the quality.

The colour is very soft and flattering, the Vneck so plunging as to necessitate a cami (unless you are flat as a board and nervy). And it fits like a glove, hovering against every delightful curve and rendering each more delightful still.

Lord, I seem to be talking myself into this. Stop it. Now.

Somebody please go out and buy it and send a photo. I appear to have a problem...

Beige Turtleneck: Bloomingdales circa 1990

To call this piece ubiquitous is kind of understating it. I've had this Bloomie's sweater forever. It cost $50.00 on sale at Xmas almost 20 years ago. It has weathered many seasons, fluctuating weight, every trend you could imagine. And it's still here...

Necklace: From Ewanika. It's two separate stones on either end of a chain, which you tie.

Short outdoor/indoor wool jacket, 3/4 sleeve, inset belt by Club Monaco

3/4 black wool wrap evening coat by Kenzie. It's weird poodle-y fabric. Shoes: Vintage YSL

Grey Square Neck: Laundry circa 1998

This is one of the first "designer" pieces I ever bought. I got it at Loehmann's in West Palm Beach when my parents lived nearby. It cost a fortune by my standards at that time - approaching $80.00 at a discount store 10 years ago! Man, that store was always good for a great buy...

This pullover is a very slim knit and cut. After I had my daughter I could barely fit it over my arms - much less my chest! It took until a couple of years ago before I could wear it again (and it's a bit shorter than I'd like given my current "figure challenges" read: stomach).



Here it is (seen below) with amazing new vintage jacket I bought a couple of months ago. The jacket is very fitted, wool with a flare at the waist. You can't actually see any of that in this picture, which is why I'll post about it again another time... Oh, and the belt (seen above) is metal - from Anne Taylor about 10 years ago. It was $50.00 - which also seemed steep - but look, I'm still wearing it.

My husband likes to call this my "political bio" photo. Ha!

Oversize Oatmeal Cardi: YaYa Aflalo circa 2006

This piece is so warm, so deliciously amorphous. But it does add volume... (I discovered this particularly while looking at about 10 photos I deleted instantaneously!)


The funnel sleeve is my fave element - or maybe it's the shawl collar. This piece feels amazing with a cashmere cami underneath (not that I appear to be wearing one). But, yes, I own one of those too...

Brown Cable Knit: Ca Va de Soi circa 2007

I know these aren't the best shots ever, but I'm trying to show you the versatility of thick cashmere (albeit in a fitted style) to create a long, slim silhouette.



This Ca Va de Soi sweater (cashmere and merino), from Ewanika, was on sale for about $100.00. It was very well-priced, IMO, given its original price was twice that, and the cashmere isn't flimsy in any way. It's got give but it snaps back.

Its greatest strength may also be seen as a bit of a flaw: It's a very bizarre, potentially hard to manage, caramel colour. Given how well it fits, I'm sure this is the only reason it ever made it to the sale. But with my new, crazy highlights (and my propensity to mix yellow with anything) it works particularly well.

Looks great with skinnies and leggings too...

'Shmere Campaign

My husband came up with this title and he'd like you all to be aware of that. :-)

At any rate, y'all know (if you've read this blog at least twice) that I'm a bit of a freak for cashmere. There are few substances in the world that thrill me as much. It's so soft, so fluffy, so slim, so durable, so insanely warm. And it comes in so many deniers. I own cashmere that's thin enough to be translucent. I own cashmere that's thick enough to be cable knit. I own scarves, glove sleeves, hats and - natch - sweaters. Practically zillions of them - or maybe more like 10. Of course this doesn't include the many sweaters I have that are constructed of merino wool.

I suppose now's a good time to say, please don't judge. I live in Canada peeps; it's frickin' cold here! Besides, never has a girl taken such good care of or enjoyed every element of buying, owning and wearing the stuff. So it's all good.

Recently, I came up with this idea. It includes:

• 2 pairs of shoes
• 1 skirt
• 3 jackets and
• 4 cashmere sweaters

What I've decided to do over the next few days is post photos of me in (basically) the same outfit - working a few styles of cashmere to (I've gotta hope) good advantage.

To kick things off, here's a couple of shots of me in that new - admittedly not cashmere - Club Monaco V neck I profiled last week. Talk about getting your money's worth in photos and copy!

But there's more...

Last week saw the purchase of a few great wardrobe essentials which manage, I hope, to turn basic on its edge slightly.

In addition to that Yaya maxi-sweater, I also found this merino/cashmere blend fitted, cropped turtleneck in a slate-y jewel-toned blue. Paired with new, spring shoes (some nondescript brand I've never heard of and can't remember the name of) - which were on sale for $40.00 - I hope I've got a youthful, but luxe, thing happening here. The sweater (Karoo by Mark Eisen)was $300.00 on sale for $79.00. Oh, and those are the H & M wide jeans I was going on about a couple of weeks ago...

Did I Mention I Love Cashmere?

I know, it's hardly cutting edge - but it can be edgy. The evidence: My newest addition to the K cashmere family - a knee-length, cool grey cardigan by Line. Unfussy elasticized ruching - that runs from the collar to the hem - endows it with a very modern appeal. And the tie that runs along the hem facilitates shortening this garment to a hip-length blouson. Admittedly, that's more how the kids are wearing it. Which is precisely what I love about this piece - It's so deliciously soft, so beautifully (which is to say slim-ly) tailored and modular. It says, you can be prim and sexy. And you can be warm!

Now the $400.00 pricetag kind of shook me. No joking, I do not buy retail if there's anyway around it. I went back to Mendocino 3 times over the course of about a month, each time observing the (already small) stock dwindle. Just before Xmas - when, arguably, I should have been saving for the loved ones - I caved and bought. But I am delighted to report that I have not had a moment of regret.

(Still figuring out how to take pics that aren't fuzzy so please stay tuned.)