Slippery Sloper

On the basis of a couple of comments yesterday (thank you!) and an email exchange with S., I had this moment of sewing memory lucidity...

Remember these? (Please ignore my deathly sick look...)

Well, they just happen to be pants made for a stretch woven. Sure, they're the jeans version of leggings, but note that I made those with denim that barely stretched. I mean, it doesn't stretch at all which is why I haven't been wearing them lately...

For kicks, I took out the pattern. Egad, that seems almost "sloper comparison-esque".

Here's what my altered version it looks like:

Seems that I had to a) lengthen the denim leggings at the hem but I didn't shorten them in the rise tremendously much and - note this with interest! - I actually raised the waist-line twice to get them to sit at my real waist.

And here are the relevant pieces of the Claudia pattern overlaid:

Fascinating, yes?

There's not a tremendous amount of difference between these curves. Sure, there's the need for refinement in length and depth - and the first try might not work perfectly - but I am starting to see how this pattern is not cut for an Amazon.
This bonus photo shows that the length of the Claudia pant is about 0.5" longer than the denim leggings sloper, but that's before any refinements...

So that's where I'm at right now. Strangely grateful for a sloper of sorts, to potentially have saved me from slicing and dicing the Claudia (I traced it! It wouldn't have been a disaster!) in accordance with a loose-fit pants sloper designed for wovens.

Whatcha think?

Much Better

Mercifully, I remade the denim leggings with some alterations and they worked. What I mean is, I know they look as they're meant to. I'd show them to you on my dress form but, wait, my dress form is useless to me in its current state. Even my kid came into the sewga room and said: That doesn't look anything like you. There's nothing like spending a bomb of money and, yet, being in limbo. It's moments like this that I wish I had thousands of bucks to blow on a Wolf custom form... BTW, can you believe that company has the nerve to charge so much given the crappiness of its website??

(Incidentally, two things you shouldn't ask me about the status of for the next week or so: the dress form and the bra. The form is in process, but will likely await the purchase of batting and the receipt of extra boob foams. The bra is something I just keep putting off because I have other things to do. I really don't know why I'm avoiding it so effectively. I don't feel stressed by it. Maybe, on some level, I sense that I might be traumatized by another failure learning experience. Maybe it doesn't matter when I do it, and I get that, so I'm just being chill. Really, the jury is out.)

But back to the denim leggings. This time here's what I did:

• I cut the small - and man, was that a smart idea. I don't care if it does say the small fits a size 26 waist, I can tell you that's not true.
• I still had to shorten the crotch length by almost 2 inches.
• I also recreated my "sloper" crotch depth curve on front and back seams.
• I didn't insert the ankle zippers (I wasn't going to waste my time if this version was a fit bust) and the ankles are very snug - when putting the pants on. I have super slim calves - I was going to call them skinny, but I feel that "slim" makes them sound more exotic and lovely - so it's not a problem for me, but it could be on someone more "average" in the calf width.
• They are definitely not long. Esp. once one removes 2 inches in crotch length. If you were tall, you'd need to add length from the get go, crotch length shortening notwithstanding. I'm 5'3" and my hem was a mere half inch. I serged every edge so this was just fine for me.

Thoughts and feelings:

• I don't know that I love them at this moment, though I will give them a fighting chance. They do fit really well in the leg and I suspect they'll look great with tall boots. Having said that, I just can't enjoy the elastic waist vibe. It screams "leggings" rather than "denim". I guess I have a prejudice. I think that elastic waistbands are the purview of the older woman.
• Having said that, I know that the elastic waist will be totally comfortable and will diminish the likelihood of "muffin top". The elastic is 1 inch. I suspect, if your stomach were a challenge-area, you might be able to alter the top of the pants (increase them by 1 inch at the waist) and use 2 inch elastic. How supportive would that be??
  
• I can't advise you if you're a pear - Lord knows, I don't understand you women :-) - but if you are an apple, def. cut one size smaller than your measurements. This pattern fits large.
  

Anyone else made them at this point? Any thoughts or feelings??

Don't Believe Everything You Read

I haven't been able to get the denim leggings debacle out of my mind. Maybe it's all of the hope I invested in this - particularly practical - garment. Maybe it's the fact that I did a ton of work and it sucked in the end and I don't know if I should blame myself or the pattern.

Who cares? Well, I do. Because if the pattern sucks, I should warn everyone away from it and throw it to the curb. However, if this is about me sucking, then I should suck it up and try again.

Don't you love how many times I've managed to say suck in this post so far?

Here's where I'm at on the hamster-wheel of my mind: I've got to make them again. And this time I have to make the small.

I put the Kwik Sew pair against my Guido and Mary's (so close to the end, my friends), and saw that the KS's are about 2 inches wider (an each on each outer seam). Interestingly, the crotch length and depth (inasmuch as one can tell in reviewing finished garments, which is difficult) seems similar on each.

But there's no way I would have done this at start of the project - hell, I'm still reluctant - because the waist on the small is supposed to be 26 inches. Which, needless to say, mine is not. Having said all this, have you ever seen a pair of too-large denim leggings with an elastic (rather than yoked "jeans") waist? OMG - it's like something out of Golden Girls. SO HORRIBLE! Somehow baggy and bulge-revealing, all at the same time, in all of the wrong places.

It was almost enough to make me feel bad about myself.

But don't take my word for it. Please, someone else make these and do a post on sizing and issues and guide me on my path.

Pioneering is such hard work.

Get a Leg Up

Meet Kwik Sew 3807:


This is one of the most exciting patterns I've ever come across - if only for its sheer wearability in my particular wardrobe.

And it just arrived at my door today! Seriously, there is no garment I don more happily (or, potentially, more frequently) than denim leggings. With tunic tops, big sweaters, asymmetric cardigans - they're fantastic. Warmer (and edgier) than tights or "regular" leggings, they fit like a glove, but with substance.

I am happy to be the guinea pig for this pattern - as I can't seem to find any reviews...

For those taking notes: Contrary to my usual "one-at-a-time" protocol, I am currently working on 3 sewing projects simultaneously - the Pendrell top, these denim leggings and the bra. (Some new lingerie supplies arrived today, and while they're great, I think I may have to alter the size of the wires. Fortunately, I have had excellent service - and superior product - from Dini at Danglez.)

I'm intrigued to see how I'm going to manage a busy period at work and a truly full sewing schedule. Happily, I'm very engaged by all of it, so how bad can it be?