Win Some, Lose Some

I know I said I would not sew but I lied. After seeing Gillian's and Sara's Myrtle dresses, I couldn't resist. All I can say is, thank the sewing goddess that I made it with a couple of yards of a knit I didn't care about, because oy, it looks so mediocre on me.

I'm not going to show a pic. It's fine but I don't like it enough to photograph it.

I'm not suggesting that the problem is with the pattern. I really do think that it's a matter of shape incompatibility. This dress is cut for a very wide frame and it's difficult to narrow the excessive amount of relative width in the upper bust (cowl area) if you need to keep the depth, just below, for your boobs.

I do believe that the sizes are way off (as a few others have said). I should have made a medium, according to the chart. In actual fact, I cut the shoulders smaller than the XS and it was still way too wide. I made the rest of the dress in a small and it was a bit bigger than I'd like. I don't appreciate having had to measure the pieces to confirm a massive amount of ease.

Although I altered just about everything in this pattern (and I'm glad I did or it would have been unwearable), this dress still didn't cohere on me. I could probably recreate it more flatteringly for my shape (and let's face it - the pattern is ubiquitous) by merging a Maria of Denmark cowl with a Lady Skater skirt.

The instructions are very good - as Colette Pattern's always are. But the PDF pattern is so absurdly arranged, it's insulting. I spent 90 minutes taping and I had advance warning so I was able to save a bit of effort. It's 65 pages. I threw away 20 of them (uncut). I wasted ink. I used a full roll of tape (even though I avoided taping the areas I would cut away). (I have heard that the PDF will be reorganized, btw. So you might want to wait to make this, until the new version is out . I assume you'd be sent an updated PDF if you already own the pattern.)

Happily, I wear my Lady Skater dress constantly - it was more-or-less drafted for me (and altered to fit even better) - and people love it. So I might be ready to use my gorgeous Liberty jersey on that...

It's so disappointing to have spent 9 hours on something I won't wear.

Weekend Bound (And a Diatribe of Sorts)

I'm looking towards the weekend, as it pours with rain and hovers at 7C. This year has been hateful, weather-wise. At this point, I believe that it is actually affecting the ability of most to function normally. It's like we've all be stuck on a ship in the middle of the sea for 7 months. (That, for what it's worth, is the amount of time during which I've been wearing gloves.) People here are so crazy that every fucking patio in the downtown core was open for dinner yesterday (an unusual day in that there was sun) - as it hovered at 10C. I saw crazy Canadians removing their gloves to pick up forks. And I could almost get with it.

No doubt, affected by weather-induced malaise, I've got a few things to report:
 
Neither my new fabric (for the next round of the Rosie top) nor my sister's dress and fabric (for that hideous bridesmaid experience) have arrived this week. That means I've got nothing doing on the sewing front. I could sew, but I busted my ass for 5 days last (long) weekend and it was not easy sewing. I don't know that I've got the fortitude to hole up again.

My final sewing goal of last weekend, while it was no more enjoyable than any other sewing activity of that weekend, was a tremendous success. The Lady Skater Dress is all that and a bag of chips. It's nicely drafted and, once I altered the armscye, arm width and sleeve head, everything else was perfectly proportioned for me. That's to say, I do believe this is drafted for a short woman with a short waist and curves. I think it's also well-suited to the larger ladies because the unaltered pattern version of the arms and armscye unit are not cut small and narrow. This is corroborated by the versions, made by plus size bloggers, which look terrific.

To give you some sense of it, after I spent 30 minutes altering the arm unit (as per my knit top sloper), I did not make one other alteration. The arm unit is a size 1. The rest of the dress is a size 4. The waist height was perfect. The bust depth, perfect. The skirt length, perfect. In my world, this was a pretty seamless process.

OK, in truth, this garment came close to being eaten by a serger more times than I'd like to say - and I managed to fuck up so many ways by reading instructions when I should have just done things the way I knew they would work. Don't misunderstand, the instructions aren't bad, they're just too detailed and too fussy. Here's what you do: Make a T shirt. Add a skirt. Don't overthink it by looking at fussy photos.

What's utterly miraculous - and I will tell more of the story when I take pics of myself wearing this insanely flattering garment (to follow when the weather permits me to wear it) - is that I had only 1.5 yards of striped fabric (65" wide) and I still managed to get a 3/4 sleeve dress with no skirt shortening. And I pattern-matched like a fucking star.  Honestly, this is a coup.

I'm also saving the photos because I've opted to use this dress as my contribution to Clio's Sew Sexy Sew Along. It may be simple but it looks terrific because it fits fantastically. It brings out the sexy!

One final thing I'll say right now about the Lady Skater (man, I wish they'd chosen a better name...): At this point, I would recommend it over the new Colette Patterns Moneta.

How can I say this authoritatively, having not set eyes on the Moneta pattern? Well, I've sewn a lot of Colette Patterns and I've always felt that the drafted fit leaves much to be desired. While the instructions are good (and the marketing superb), I find the drafting clumsy. Of course, any brand is apt to work better for some than for others but, really, I've seen too many unflattering versions of too many Colette patterns on too many differently-shaped people. As the cult of Colette takes tighter hold, I feel I've got to tell it like I see it. (Furthermore, I'm entirely prepared to mea culpa if I start to see a zillion gorgeous versions of the Moneta. Not that it will change my opinion about lots of other Colette offerings.)

By contrast, I have not seen one bad version of the Lady Skater on anyone.

I don't find the Moneta attractive on the plus-size model (an obviously gorgeous woman) - so I don't have much hope that, unaltered, it's going to fit the average lady much better. The bodice veers too closely toward empire to flatter those with large breasts and wide rib cages. The gathers at the skirt are juvenile-seeming and they add bulk.

The Lady Skater is a very sleek fit. It works wonders to disguise the lumps and to highlight the curves. The drafting of the skirt produces a perfect hang. Natch - use the best fabric you can find! If you use crap T shirting with no recovery and little stretch, it's not going to end well... The trick with T shirt dresses is to spend a FORTUNE on the fabric. Trust me.

I mean, if you're game, please buy both the Lady Skater and the Moneta, make the both and tell me how it goes! But I don't expect I'll be undertaking that experiment for myself.

I have a lot more to say on other topics(what else is new) but I feel I should leave it here and pick up in another post. This has been a lot of words (and no pretty pics).

But before I go... Today's questions: Which appeals to you more - the Moneta or the Lady Skater? Have you made either or both? Do you prefer one over the other? Let's talk!

Challenge / Goal

Compelling personal projects notwithstanding, I'm officially on knitting hiatus. Not cuz I'm sick of it (strangely), but because my hands/wrists/arms/shoulders/neck need a rest. It's ok. I've largely finished the holiday gifts on my list. And baking awaits, donchaknow.

Having said this, the urge to sew gets a little stronger every day. How I miss the solitude of my sewga room, the hum of my machines.

Now's a good time to remind us all that I don't need anything. My desire to sew something is based entirely on my enjoyment of the craft and pretty new things. My intention is to make the next garment construction a stash-busting exercise, but I'm finding my fabrics on hand to be somewhat at odds with the patterns I'd like to sew (they being quick wins as we like to say in my industry). Hmmm...

The fabrics that call to me - either because of yardage or loveliness (or both) - are:

• This amazing Versace that Mardel gave me. Everytime I look at it, I like it more.
• The remainder of this orange 4-way stretch jersey.
• A bizarre, on balance, crappy beige 4-way stretch fabric that has a strange, vaguely fleece-like quality (only the "good side" is the fluffy side and the nap is more rich-seeming than that of a sweatshirt). This is one of the first fabrics I ever bought, and I still haven't figured out what to make with it.
• The top (slate) fabric, with beautiful drape, pictured here.

The patterns that appeal to me - either because they're "simple" or practical - are:

• Knit top V8323
• Knit, cowl dress V8413
• Next go 'round of the Clover pants
• This Hot Pattern skirt that threw me for a loop (re: waist facing) 2 yrs ago. It's the only pattern I started and then put away. After making a muslin.
• I could also make the ubiquitous Kwik Sew yoga pants - lord knows, my current crop of lounge pants is regrettably sad. But this isn't exactly interesting work.
  

So, I put it out there for feedback. Do you have any suggestions?

For what it's worth, I have realized a few things over the past couple of days of sewing reconsideration:

• I really like sewing and wearing Colette and Sewaholic patterns. Too bad I can't make another Sencha or Pendrell. Alas, I have a glut of them - though I do wear them all the time.
  
• I'm so glad the Colette gift set is still available today. I bought the book (with 2 free patterns), recognizing that I need a) a new, staple skirt (the Ginger) and b) a good slip pattern (the Cinnamon). See, I really feel like making a slip this weekend, but I don't have a pattern on hand.
• I'm much happier with my cache of knitting patterns than sewing patterns. I really have to find "the angle" when it comes to most of my sewing patterns. I wonder why that is...
  

Two Yards Down

Photo of Colette Patterns Clover Pants

I spent Saturday constructing my first muslin of the Colette Clover pants. Here's what I can tell you so far:

• It's a gorgeous pattern to sew. Never mind the finished product, which I haven't yet completed, very few patterns have the confluence of flow, excellent instruction and intelligent construction that this one does. I cannot wait to give it another go. Seriously, how often do you hear me wax rhapsodic about fun construction?

• My zenness stood me in good stead as I managed to produce a first garment that is SO not wearable - and for the most unexpected reason: Shortening the crotch depth by an inch transformed it from what (I presume) would be low/mid-rise to practically pubic. I've never encountered this problem before - I suppose there's a first time for everything.

• This is sad, if only from the standpoint of the fabric I have sacrificed. You may be thinking: Well, Kristin, you knew what you were getting yourself into. Why did you use fabric you'd be sad to see wrecked? The answer: I'm eternally hopeful and wanted the potential of a great end product - which it may well have been (other adjustments notwithstanding) if I hadn't created the most non-negotiable of issues - inadequate amount of fabric to cover all the areas. Seriously, what a great blog post - and real-life story - that would have made. Furthermore, I didn't remember - till after I cut and started sewing - what awesome hand that worsted had. I like to think I'm a (torched) yard and a half closer to expertise. Isn't always painful to sacrifice fabric on some level?

Poly Crafting

I've had a productive weekend so far:

1. Started the Tubey Sweater. I've changed up the instructions to do the following:

• Alter the long bell sleeves into fitted 3/4 sleeves
• Leave off the provisional cast on at one shoulder, choosing instead to knit the whole shrug in one pass, from sleeve hem to sleeve hem. The two sleeves will be knitted in the round using magic loop. The back, upper body piece between them will be knitted with the same circular needles, but flat. Man, this knitting-speak is gobbledygook.
  
• I've got to shorten the upper back (underarm seam to under arm seam) because my dimensions are smaller than the Small size I'm knitting. In fact, I think they may be smaller than the XS. (I tell you - my frame is narrow.)
  
• Why don't I just make the whole sweater proportionately smaller? Cuz the tube body (knit stretchily in rib stitch) is the part of the sweater that contains the bust, and I am definitely in need of the pattern's increased dimensions for that.
• The challenge will be to pick up stitches for the small (the size I am notionally making) - where the shoulder and upper bust shrug piece (from which I'll be picking those stitches up) will not be a pattern-drafted "size small". Short story, is I'm going to have to do some fancy footwork there too - but I have a plan.
• As I've mentioned in other social media venues, my goal here is to obtain a great fit.
• This sweater, if knit without careful consideration for sizing - esp. given my body shape - would likely be a bust (ha!). I've got gauge but I'm not being cocky. I've been there before and had a bad outcome. However, with that sweater (the ill-fated Wispy), there were other issues going on.

2. I'm also knitting my third version of the Cable Keyhole Scarf. You know I'm making this scarf for everyone as Xmas gifts. Each one I've knit in different yarn on size 7 needles. Scarves don't really require strict adherence to gauge, thank the knitting goddess, but I'm intrigued to see how they all look and feel somewhat unique.

3. I spent a lot of the afternoon (oh, 2 hrs or so) altering, tracing and cutting out the paper pattern for the Clover pants. Why am I pattern adjusting, before making a muslin to see how the original pattern actually fits my body? Well, I've learned that certain of my alterations are somewhat standard, pattern notwithstanding. This doesn't mean my altered pattern will produce a perfectly fitting muslin. I suppose I could create a whole new set of fit challenges by this theory. But, since I'm willing to work the muslin till I get the fit I'm looking for, I feel there's no real harm in starting from my formerly successful vantage point.

• My crotch length is short in relation to most patterns - much as my waist length is. I have removed an inch from below dart markings (and above the crotch seams). This pattern doesn't provide a shorten line so I had to wing it. I hope I did the right adjustment in the right spot.
• Furthermore my crotch depth has it's own, interesting proportions, which seem to transfer from 1 pants style to another, quite accurately.
• From (admittedly minimal) past experience of Colette Patterns, I am assuming that this pattern will fit on the roomy side. Given that I prefer 3/8 seams to 5/8 seams, my finished products tend to grow a bit that way also. Having said that, I have slightly less difference between my hips and waist measurements, than the pattern measurements. I graded the size 6 to an 8 at the waist. Interestingly, my crotch depth shape adjustments (see above) accord somewhat with the size 8 also. I'm working under the premise that I'm a 6 in the legs and hips but an 8 in the waist and crotch due to the very special shape of my lower abdomen.
• I find it strange to make changes to something I've only ever seen in 2 dimensions. I guess this is the path of learning how to three-dimensionally "read" flat pieces of paper. At least, at this point, I have an awareness of how the pattern pieces produce the 3 tubes that create the pants (2 legs and torso) - and of how they stitch together. But it's all such a guessing game.

Given my 2 latest projects, I can see that I'm at a new juncture in my production of garments. I really want to understand fit - so much so that I'm not afraid to jump right in, practical knowledge or skill notwithstanding. You can only get from nothing to something by starting, right? That's the way I'm approaching this phase. And by embracing math. If you knew me in high school, you'll know how shocking that is.

Totally off topic update: If you're looking for some utterly awesome, very reasonably priced, vintage cashmere, run to this post. And if you buy the flower cardigan, I want to hear about it!

Sencha, Take Two

The black currant coloured, faux-silk Sencha blouse is complete. I made a second version 3 (on the front) with my own modified back (7 snaps).

I will post photos soon (it was too dark to snap them this evening), but right now I'll just share my thoughts.

I decided not to recut to the size 6 - I stuck with an 8 but I modified it as such:

• I repositioned and added a pin tuck on each side of the back. Now there are 2 back tucks on each side of the centre back, evenly spaced from the side seams. Of course, the back closures (snaps or buttons) are angled to the right side of centre, so I wonder if it looks strange. I'm not too concerned. This alteration happily removed about .75" on each side of the back, or 1.5" overall.
• I took a bit of fullness out of the side seams under the arm. I didn't get mathematical about it - I just eyeballed the amount and cut it off the pattern - and it worked out fine.

What I realized, after wearing the leopard-print version last week, is that the bust and shoulders fit well. It was the back and underarm that were too big. I didn't want to re-trace and cut a size 6 if, in fact, that was going to diminish the full bust ease, which worked well.

Gotta say, I am very excited to make this sort of alteration. It's so thrilling to me that I have the confidence to give it a go. Not so long ago I would have run for the hills at the thought of deviating from a pattern.

Many sewing-blogger friends are directly responsible for helping me to get to this stage. I love it when I read a post that enthusiastically proclaims, it's just sewing. Do what you want. Make it up. What's the worst that can happen?? That attitude underpins creativity.

The Sencha Blouse

Today it is so utterly gloomy and fall-like that there's barely any light to take photos with. Well, at this hour it's completely dark, but when I took these it was all flash, all the time.

I am not one of those people who revels in the grey, damp. I don't find it moody, so much as suicide-inducing. I'll take sun any day of the week - every day. I don't much care if it's cold as fuck, but rain and darkness just drives me insane.

Fortunately, I've had the Sencha blouse project to level me out:


As you know I did front version 3 (keyhole neck), and my initial idea was to make the back in version 1 (2 snaps and the rest hand sewn).

When I got started on the snaps, I was so thrilled with them that I decided the entire back would have to get snapped.



The Snap Setter is really a useful tool - and very affordable / storable. I got some fantastic customer service when I called one day to ask about a thousand questions including, does this thing actually work or is it a total gimmick? Look, the Canadian shipping fee was not negligible (what else is new) and I didn't want to waste my time.

In the past, I bought another version of a snap stamper, which I promptly returned because it was useless... Is the Snap Setter time consuming? Well, no more so than sewing button holes! And you get to use a hammer...

The Sencha pattern is a joy to sew. I don't know that I'd call it Beginner, to be honest, though, when you know nothing - as I remember from very recently - everything is equally impossible. I did interface the centre back, and I'm glad, cuz even those little sz 16 snaps are heavy when you do 7 of them.

Look at these gorgeous tucks:

Isn't the facing pretty?? (I mean, how often do you find me showing you the garment interior for kicks??)

And here's a shot of the interior sleeve:

The exterior hemming was done by hand, fyi, so it's undetectable from the right side of the garment.

The bad news is that this thing is too big. Not outrageously too big - I mean, I'll wear it soon and I intend to pair it with this:

Seriously, how handmade-cute will that outfit be?

I'm going to make the next version in a size 6. Note to those who intend to sew this - the finished product fits roomily. Also - and it would be so good if I paid attention to detail at the pivotal moments - there's a useful table on the pattern cover that actually tells you the dimensions of the finished garment. Oh well, you live, you learn.

Nonetheless, I'm thrilled with this top. It is so flattering on a woman with breasts - and so relatively easy (esp. given that it's made in a woven) because most large-breasted women will not need to do a full bust adjustment. I actually think it would be harder to work this without big tits than with - and how often does that happen (we who know about clothing and fit and why models are flat as a board)??

Anyhow, that's my review. Whatcha think??

More is More

Some people finish their fancy coats and go out for a weekend's worth of restaurant meals to show 'em off. I, on the other hand, scored an extra long weekend and so far I've spent it in the sewing room.

I know, I'm insane.

But let me tell you what I've been making! (Gonna post photos really soon. I swear. Just need daylight...)

First off, I decided to merge 2 versions of Vogue 8364:

I used the 3/4 sleeve from version B (centre) and the tunic length of version C (right). And I got rid of that stupid seam under the boobs, which doesn't do anything for the look of the garment, other than fussy it up.

I used a slate grey (with undertones of lavender) two-way sweater knit I found at FabricLand a while ago. Let me tell you, it was not cheap. I got it on sale, if I remember correctly, and it was still in the neighbourhood of $15.00 yard.

On the plus side, I made a freakin' tunic for $25.00! This pattern fits large. I made the small and it was more than big enough. The envelope sizing (incorrectly) suggests that the fit is smaller...

I decided to use my serger for the whole job, hems excepted. For starters, from start to finish (including buying fabric, re-tracing pattern, sewing) this thing took 3 hours. It was a delicious dream. I should disclose that I needed to spend an extra hour ripping out the hem (oy, on knit, what a nightmare) because it sucked. After the ripping, I serged the hem and now it looks so chic. I don't think I'll ever hem a sweater knit again. Until I get my coverstitch machine (mwahahahaha).

I also lived seriously on the edge (get it?!) and, on realizing that the back where it meets the cowl was drooping due to extra fabric, I just opted to serge it off. Free-style. And it worked.

I've already worn it out two days in a row and I utterly love it.

What I'm making right now is the Colette Pattern Sencha blouse which, it appears, every home sewist in the land has taken a shot at. Remember, I had to wait months for it to come back into stock before snagging it just before I started the coat? (What? You can't remember anything else I ever sewed - or did - before the coat? That's fair.)

I bought 2 fabrics with which to make it (there are 3 styles, I'm starting with version 3, the keyhole front). Each was on sale for a reasonable $7.00/yd.

The fabric I'm using first is a traditional cream/black leopard print, textured woven poly. It sounds awful but the drape and hand are excellent. And it's machine washable!! I'm going to do the back version 1 (the easiest back, to match the most challenging front), and I'll test out my new Snap Setter. Here's hoping it works because I loathe button-hole making.

The other fabric feels and looks like a matte silk. It, too, is a synthetic and machine washable. It's much slippier than the leopard because it has no surface texture and it's very drapey slim. It's in a rich merlot - just an awesome shade. I intend to make front version 2 with this fabric.

The pattern is well-designed - as everyone says. The instructions are quite clear and - I know this will sound strange coming from me - very enjoyable to follow. I did switch around (per everyone's reviews) the steps to (0.25 inch) machine hem the sleeves and the stitching of the side seams. It's easier that way.

I am loving the hand stitching involved. Yes, you did read that correctly, I am such a convert. The line of the blouse (which I would only make in something with good, slinky, woven drape) is gorgeous.

I'm making the 8 and (hmmm, broken record anyone?), I fear it may be too big - even in the chest! I'm technically a 6 in Colette Patterns, but I didn't feel the need to full-bust-adjust this (Sarai makes patterns for women with fulsome breasts) and I wanted to be sure it would fit.

It's one of those tops the final fit of which is totally unknowable till the last minute (when the back closures go in). I'm hoping it won't be too big, but if it is, no worries, I will simply make it in the 6 next time.

Time, Time, Time

One of these days I'm going to count up the number of references to "time" on this blog - to not having it or needing it or enjoying it or wishing for more of it. I observe this in my writing all the time (ha!) - moreso than in any that of my fave blogs, many of whom are written by extremely busy people. (Dare I suggest it, they may be people even busier than me :-))

So here's another go at telling you that I have tons to say. Really, the details of my mind are so utterly fun and full you would love to take a ride on "Kristin's Tilt-A-Whirl Brain". (You do have to be a certain height though. It's not exactly PG in there.)

Meanwhile, let me give you a few sewing related updates:

• Even if you don't intend to do the Lady Grey sew along, you should bookmark Gertie's site and read along. It's totally fascinating. I'd be interested to hear about it - and to read the comments and view the Flickr page - whether I sewed or not, never mind simply not "actively" participating. I very much appreciate the opportunity to sew in a community, to the completion of a common goal. In truth, I am lonely in my sewing sometimes. I mean, sometimes it's tough having only your stealth and newbie skills for company. I rely on my sewing friends (see sidebar) for all kinds of support - emotional to practical. I am so glad to have a chance to do something that 140 other people will be doing simultaneously. I'm a big believer in group energy, so I'm intrigued to see how this is going to play out.
• It's going to be full-on coat sewing during a month when I'll also be traveling on a few occasions for work. So I wonder how I'm going to fit it all in. I mean, where will I find the time??? (please see above).
• FYI, the fashion fabric I bought for my coat is a navy boucle boiled wool (not matted like so much boiled wool. That's a look I do not like.) Still haven't found the perfect lining. Have the muslin but need to get a bunch of interlining and interfacing supplies. I'm prob going to try to do this hardcore, with the group, so I'll need to use hair canvas (for tailoring) and lambswool interlining (for warmth) etc. If I stop to think about it, I get a bit nervous. So I don't bother to do too much thinking.
• Another FYI, in case you're still considering joining this sew along, you should know the coat will have cost me about 150 bucks by the time I add in all the supplies and fabrics. That's before I spend 30 plus hours making it. So maybe, unless you're really stoked, you may want to go to Club Monaco and buy yourself something warm and chic. I bet you could work out a participatory blog experience out of that, with a little thought. And I'm likely to join, knowing me.
• BTW, don't begrudge the cost of your coats. Now that I'm making one, I don't think I could consider spending less than $500.00 on one ever again, economies of scale notwithstanding. I used to wonder how people spent thousands of dollars on garments. These days I can't believe that one can buy a pair of pants for less money than it costs to purchase the raw materials to make them.
• The Colette Patterns Sencha top is finally available for reorder: It's been out of stock forever (she says, like she's been sewing for years or something?!) because everyone in the freakin' sewosphere wants a chance at it. I just snapped it up to make with 2 woven fabrics I LOVE. One is an animal print (vaguely sheer) and the other is a merlot-coloured matte silk. Here's hoping I can pull this one off so that I look that much more elegant in my new pencil skirt.
• BTW, I'm totally thrilled with the new pencil skirt. I've practically forgotten all the ways in which it is imperfect.