Serging Ahead

Here's Vogue 8634, the version C (tunic) length with the version B (3/4) sleeve:

Sorry for the fuzzy shot... Notice how I removed the empire horizontal seam. Such an easy pattern alteration and it improves the line of this so much!

This is probably the fastest thing I've ever sewn - 3 hours(ish), minus the stitch ripping of the hem. It was 4 seams, hem and sleeve hems. Next time, I'm simply going to hem serge the sleeves as well as the bottom and call it a day.

I've overexposed the shots to try to show detail. Please know that the sweater fabric (some mystery synthetic that looks just like wool) is actually lovely. You know how I am about texture. I cannot stand "screechy" feeling stuff.

I note in the photos that the waist looks really straight but, in fact, it sucks right against one's curves in a flattering way. It has an excellent length for a short-waisted person of 5'3" - in no way too long but still bum-covering. If you are long of torso or tall, you may want to consider adding some length. Looks excellent with skinnies and leggings.

As I mentioned in my last post, this is a deceptively large fit. The pattern sizing suggests that a small is a big 4 pattern close-fitting 8-10 (i.e. 32ish" bust). I can assure you, negative ease notwithstanding, the small fits an upper bust i.e. chest measurement of 33 just fine. My full bust measurement is 36 - 37" and the small works with no problem.

Really, you should totally make this. Especially if you have a serger!

The Sencha Blouse

Today it is so utterly gloomy and fall-like that there's barely any light to take photos with. Well, at this hour it's completely dark, but when I took these it was all flash, all the time.

I am not one of those people who revels in the grey, damp. I don't find it moody, so much as suicide-inducing. I'll take sun any day of the week - every day. I don't much care if it's cold as fuck, but rain and darkness just drives me insane.

Fortunately, I've had the Sencha blouse project to level me out:


As you know I did front version 3 (keyhole neck), and my initial idea was to make the back in version 1 (2 snaps and the rest hand sewn).

When I got started on the snaps, I was so thrilled with them that I decided the entire back would have to get snapped.



The Snap Setter is really a useful tool - and very affordable / storable. I got some fantastic customer service when I called one day to ask about a thousand questions including, does this thing actually work or is it a total gimmick? Look, the Canadian shipping fee was not negligible (what else is new) and I didn't want to waste my time.

In the past, I bought another version of a snap stamper, which I promptly returned because it was useless... Is the Snap Setter time consuming? Well, no more so than sewing button holes! And you get to use a hammer...

The Sencha pattern is a joy to sew. I don't know that I'd call it Beginner, to be honest, though, when you know nothing - as I remember from very recently - everything is equally impossible. I did interface the centre back, and I'm glad, cuz even those little sz 16 snaps are heavy when you do 7 of them.

Look at these gorgeous tucks:

Isn't the facing pretty?? (I mean, how often do you find me showing you the garment interior for kicks??)

And here's a shot of the interior sleeve:

The exterior hemming was done by hand, fyi, so it's undetectable from the right side of the garment.

The bad news is that this thing is too big. Not outrageously too big - I mean, I'll wear it soon and I intend to pair it with this:

Seriously, how handmade-cute will that outfit be?

I'm going to make the next version in a size 6. Note to those who intend to sew this - the finished product fits roomily. Also - and it would be so good if I paid attention to detail at the pivotal moments - there's a useful table on the pattern cover that actually tells you the dimensions of the finished garment. Oh well, you live, you learn.

Nonetheless, I'm thrilled with this top. It is so flattering on a woman with breasts - and so relatively easy (esp. given that it's made in a woven) because most large-breasted women will not need to do a full bust adjustment. I actually think it would be harder to work this without big tits than with - and how often does that happen (we who know about clothing and fit and why models are flat as a board)??

Anyhow, that's my review. Whatcha think??

More is More

Some people finish their fancy coats and go out for a weekend's worth of restaurant meals to show 'em off. I, on the other hand, scored an extra long weekend and so far I've spent it in the sewing room.

I know, I'm insane.

But let me tell you what I've been making! (Gonna post photos really soon. I swear. Just need daylight...)

First off, I decided to merge 2 versions of Vogue 8364:

I used the 3/4 sleeve from version B (centre) and the tunic length of version C (right). And I got rid of that stupid seam under the boobs, which doesn't do anything for the look of the garment, other than fussy it up.

I used a slate grey (with undertones of lavender) two-way sweater knit I found at FabricLand a while ago. Let me tell you, it was not cheap. I got it on sale, if I remember correctly, and it was still in the neighbourhood of $15.00 yard.

On the plus side, I made a freakin' tunic for $25.00! This pattern fits large. I made the small and it was more than big enough. The envelope sizing (incorrectly) suggests that the fit is smaller...

I decided to use my serger for the whole job, hems excepted. For starters, from start to finish (including buying fabric, re-tracing pattern, sewing) this thing took 3 hours. It was a delicious dream. I should disclose that I needed to spend an extra hour ripping out the hem (oy, on knit, what a nightmare) because it sucked. After the ripping, I serged the hem and now it looks so chic. I don't think I'll ever hem a sweater knit again. Until I get my coverstitch machine (mwahahahaha).

I also lived seriously on the edge (get it?!) and, on realizing that the back where it meets the cowl was drooping due to extra fabric, I just opted to serge it off. Free-style. And it worked.

I've already worn it out two days in a row and I utterly love it.

What I'm making right now is the Colette Pattern Sencha blouse which, it appears, every home sewist in the land has taken a shot at. Remember, I had to wait months for it to come back into stock before snagging it just before I started the coat? (What? You can't remember anything else I ever sewed - or did - before the coat? That's fair.)

I bought 2 fabrics with which to make it (there are 3 styles, I'm starting with version 3, the keyhole front). Each was on sale for a reasonable $7.00/yd.

The fabric I'm using first is a traditional cream/black leopard print, textured woven poly. It sounds awful but the drape and hand are excellent. And it's machine washable!! I'm going to do the back version 1 (the easiest back, to match the most challenging front), and I'll test out my new Snap Setter. Here's hoping it works because I loathe button-hole making.

The other fabric feels and looks like a matte silk. It, too, is a synthetic and machine washable. It's much slippier than the leopard because it has no surface texture and it's very drapey slim. It's in a rich merlot - just an awesome shade. I intend to make front version 2 with this fabric.

The pattern is well-designed - as everyone says. The instructions are quite clear and - I know this will sound strange coming from me - very enjoyable to follow. I did switch around (per everyone's reviews) the steps to (0.25 inch) machine hem the sleeves and the stitching of the side seams. It's easier that way.

I am loving the hand stitching involved. Yes, you did read that correctly, I am such a convert. The line of the blouse (which I would only make in something with good, slinky, woven drape) is gorgeous.

I'm making the 8 and (hmmm, broken record anyone?), I fear it may be too big - even in the chest! I'm technically a 6 in Colette Patterns, but I didn't feel the need to full-bust-adjust this (Sarai makes patterns for women with fulsome breasts) and I wanted to be sure it would fit.

It's one of those tops the final fit of which is totally unknowable till the last minute (when the back closures go in). I'm hoping it won't be too big, but if it is, no worries, I will simply make it in the 6 next time.

In Case You Were Wondering

The reason you haven't heard more about sewing lost long weekend project three (Vogue 8413), is that it's still not finished. I know you're shocked by this admission.

OK, it's actually fairly close to being finished but an obnoxious half-day power-out on Monday really killed my momentum. Not to mention that it ate into the time remaining to finish the dress.

What's left to accomplish is easing the pleated bodice into the darted skirt at the waistline, adding an invisible zipper and then hemming the skirt. A long-time sewist could probably finish that in an hour. I don't know how long it will take me but I need to be rested before I tackle it.

Though I was going to take a break from sewing this weekend, I imagine I'll finish this and then trace the coat pattern for the Lady Gray Sew Along. I mean, it's not going to trace itself. I'm intrigued to learn that Gertie is a cutter, not a tracer. I was so not a tracer till I wrecked (by cutting) a chichi pattern and the Presbyterian in me couldn't deal with the waste. Weird, given I was raised Catholic. Note: I did feel guilty as well as wasteful!

Now it occurs to me that I can make the garment in other sizes, should I ever decide to sew for someone else. Of course, how I'm ever going to find time to sew for someone else given my current schedule and level of disinterest is beyond me, but you never know.

To follow up on the imperfect pencil skirt, I'm actually really liking it now. I wore it yesterday and discovered that the lining has stretched (somehow) and I will need to press the hem up and stitch it shorter. But the fit is much better than I originally understood. It's not as fitted as some things I wear, but it's really comfortable and it doesn't look loose, even as it gives me some breathing space. With flat boots, it's rather flattering. Oh, and I did match up those chevrons freakin' perfectly! See, sometimes I'm an enabler of perfection :-)

I say, take what you can get.

Here's the Pencil Skirt

You know, the one you're supposed to say you can't find a flaw in? To make it easier for you, I'm only posting shots that make it look as flaw-free as possible...

You know it's rough when I spend a free evening (kid and husband out) posting about sewing rather than actually doing it :-)

Fun fact: When I bought the fabric and lining, the woman who cut them for me told me she thought the lining was utterly hideous and that it would look terrible with the taupe fashion fabric. "Big waste of Bemberg" was how she put it. Ha! I think they look fantastic together.

Just a Pool Before I Go...

...to whom it may concern.*

Photo: desiretoinspire

Let the sewing lost weekend begin.

* In case you are under the age of 40, title refers to this utterly awesome song.