Friday, April 25, 2014

Weekend Bound (And a Diatribe of Sorts)

I'm looking towards the weekend, as it pours with rain and hovers at 7C. This year has been hateful, weather-wise. At this point, I believe that it is actually affecting the ability of most to function normally. It's like we've all be stuck on a ship in the middle of the sea for 7 months. (That, for what it's worth, is the amount of time during which I've been wearing gloves.) People here are so crazy that every fucking patio in the downtown core was open for dinner yesterday (an unusual day in that there was sun) - as it hovered at 10C. I saw crazy Canadians removing their gloves to pick up forks. And I could almost get with it.

No doubt, affected by weather-induced malaise, I've got a few things to report:
 
Neither my new fabric (for the next round of the Rosie top) nor my sister's dress and fabric (for that hideous bridesmaid experience) have arrived this week. That means I've got nothing doing on the sewing front. I could sew, but I busted my ass for 5 days last (long) weekend and it was not easy sewing. I don't know that I've got the fortitude to hole up again.

My final sewing goal of last weekend, while it was no more enjoyable than any other sewing activity of that weekend, was a tremendous success. The Lady Skater Dress is all that and a bag of chips. It's nicely drafted and, once I altered the armscye, arm width and sleeve head, everything else was perfectly proportioned for me. That's to say, I do believe this is drafted for a short woman with a short waist and curves. I think it's also well-suited to the larger ladies because the unaltered pattern version of the arms and armscye unit are not cut small and narrow. This is corroborated by the versions, made by plus size bloggers, which look terrific.

To give you some sense of it, after I spent 30 minutes altering the arm unit (as per my knit top sloper), I did not make one other alteration. The arm unit is a size 1. The rest of the dress is a size 4. The waist height was perfect. The bust depth, perfect. The skirt length, perfect. In my world, this was a pretty seamless process.

OK, in truth, this garment came close to being eaten by a serger more times than I'd like to say - and I managed to fuck up so many ways by reading instructions when I should have just done things the way I knew they would work. Don't misunderstand, the instructions aren't bad, they're just too detailed and too fussy. Here's what you do: Make a T shirt. Add a skirt. Don't overthink it by looking at fussy photos.

What's utterly miraculous - and I will tell more of the story when I take pics of myself wearing this insanely flattering garment (to follow when the weather permits me to wear it) - is that I had only 1.5 yards of striped fabric (65" wide) and I still managed to get a 3/4 sleeve dress with no skirt shortening. And I pattern-matched like a fucking star.  Honestly, this is a coup.

I'm also saving the photos because I've opted to use this dress as my contribution to Clio's Sew Sexy Sew Along. It may be simple but it looks terrific because it fits fantastically. It brings out the sexy!

One final thing I'll say right now about the Lady Skater (man, I wish they'd chosen a better name...): At this point, I would recommend it over the new Colette Patterns Moneta.

How can I say this authoritatively, having not set eyes on the Moneta pattern? Well, I've sewn a lot of Colette Patterns and I've always felt that the drafted fit leaves much to be desired. While the instructions are good (and the marketing superb), I find the drafting clumsy. Of course, any brand is apt to work better for some than for others but, really, I've seen too many unflattering versions of too many Colette patterns on too many differently-shaped people. As the cult of Colette takes tighter hold, I feel I've got to tell it like I see it. (Furthermore, I'm entirely prepared to mea culpa if I start to see a zillion gorgeous versions of the Moneta. Not that it will change my opinion about lots of other Colette offerings.)

By contrast, I have not seen one bad version of the Lady Skater on anyone.

I don't find the Moneta attractive on the plus-size model (an obviously gorgeous woman) - so I don't have much hope that, unaltered, it's going to fit the average lady much better. The bodice veers too closely toward empire to flatter those with large breasts and wide rib cages. The gathers at the skirt are juvenile-seeming and they add bulk.

The Lady Skater is a very sleek fit. It works wonders to disguise the lumps and to highlight the curves. The drafting of the skirt produces a perfect hang. Natch - use the best fabric you can find! If you use crap T shirting with no recovery and little stretch, it's not going to end well... The trick with T shirt dresses is to spend a FORTUNE on the fabric. Trust me.

I mean, if you're game, please buy both the Lady Skater and the Moneta, make the both and tell me how it goes! But I don't expect I'll be undertaking that experiment for myself.

I have a lot more to say on other topics(what else is new) but I feel I should leave it here and pick up in another post. This has been a lot of words (and no pretty pics).

But before I go... Today's questions: Which appeals to you more - the Moneta or the Lady Skater? Have you made either or both? Do you prefer one over the other? Let's talk!

31 comments:

  1. I'm so glad you like Lady Skater! I was slightly worried when you said you'd bought it, because in truth, I HATED the ponte version I made! The waist was too long, the shoulders too wide, the whole thing was just MEH. I gave it to Sara, who gave it to someone else.... On the other hand, I'm also unconvinced about the Colette dress... for me, a gathered skirt would just be all wrong. I guess i need Sewaholic to come out with the perfect knit dress for pear shaped women! ;)

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  2. Wait - did you post on that ponte version? I'm having a moment where I cannot quite remember and I can't find it on your blog. But I seem to recall getting the pattern all because of you?! And, I agree, someone needs to come out with the perfect knit dress for the pear shaped woman. I'm keeping my eyes open.

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    1. NOpe, I never posted it... but in theory it totally is the sort of pattern I *should* love!

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  3. I was so excited to hear you were on the Lady Skater bandwagon! I can't wait to see your striped version :)
    I wholeheartedly agree with your description - I've made two (as my only venture into knits) and they are by far the most flattering thing I've ever put on my size 14/16 hourglass figure! Although the ponte version is definitely in second place.
    I would LOVE to hear what you think about the options for using a stretch poplin for the skirt - I'm thinking patterned bottom and plain top, to look like separates.
    Thoughts?

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    1. OK, I've never worked with stretch poplin, so it's hard to say how it would hang together with a knit bodice but I think it's a really good idea and you should totally try it! You might want a bit more drape in the skirt (maybe cut it on the bias?) but with stretch in the poplin, that might create challenges. Let me know how it goes - you might start a whole trend!

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  4. Love the lady skater to the point where I have zero interest in trying the Colette Moneta. I've been wearing a Lady Skater at least twice a week since I made my first one and I have plans to make a few more...If only my kids weren't growing and making me have to focus on their wardrobes right now.

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    1. Cari - I've just spent the last 20 minutes looking at pics of your adorable children. Your photos with your daughter are so sweet! And I'm seriously impressed you have time to sew anything for anyone - much less yourself - much less knit, with 3 little kids!

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  5. I'm Team Lady Skater all the way!
    I thought it was interesting that Colette's first foray into knit patterns was basically duplicates of 2 successful designs - the Lady Skater and the Magic Pencil Skirt (though there are variations in the Colette skirt pattern that aren't in the MPS, I'm going to stick with the MPS - I don't entirely trust a knit skirt without elastic in the waistband).
    Oh, and if you think the name Lady Skater is bad, consider that the original name was the Big Girl Skater (a play on the kids dress being the Little Girl Skater, I think). I seem to remember she changed it because too many people thought it was a plus sized only pattern. :)

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    1. Isn't that fascinating? I'm not impressed by two very simplistic patterns, executed better recently by other designers, being heralded as the best thing ever. It's weird.

      And I cannot believe that dress was called the Big Girl Skater. I could barely bring myself to try it with the name "Lady Skater". This designer needs some of Colette's marketing skill.

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    2. I can live with the pattern names - I wish she sold high quality 4 way stretch knits in either plain colours or 'non-kid' patterns. As much as I love the fabrics she carries, I have a hard enough time maintaining a quasi-professional image at work without wearing a dress covered in rainbows or tiny vikings! :)
      I think her niche is interesting. She seems to have primarily been a designer of kids patterns, but she listened to the moms who wanted adults sized versions of some of her 'greatest hits'. I must admit I'm glad I have a son - otherwise the urge to make mother and child matching outfits might overwhelm my better judgement. :)

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    3. Lord - I spat out my water reading about dresses covered in tiny vikings! Hilarious! (And that's a fabric I need to check out - though not to wear...)

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  6. I've made 3 Lady Skaters (so far) and I LOVE this pattern. The only alteration I needed to male was add about 5 inches to the length because I'm not good with knee length. I wanted to like the Moneta (because Colette patterns come from where I live), but I'm with you on the gathered waist. Ugh. And the gorgeous plus model looked like her dress didn't have enough room for her boobs.

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    1. I feel that they really gave all of the good offerings to the slender model - also a gorgeous woman. I'd have loved to see the skirt in the right size on the plus sized model. I bet it would have been great.

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  7. Have you noticed the Out & About Dress by Sew Caroline? Of all the simple knit tee with a skirt slapped on patterns, this one had my attention. The version made on True Bias sold me, I think I will cave and buy it bc it looks like it will actually suit my body type.

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    1. I've seen that dress and I like it - very California-chic maxi dress! But it's a bit too flowy and not fitted enough for my shape. I do love the True Bias version!

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  8. so glad the lady skater worked for you! i don't know why, but it's such a simple and universally flattering shape. i have such mixed feelings about CP lately. i don't mind a gathered skirt (though they would have been smart to include a non-gathered option--for the price they charge, a totally reasonable thing to expect) but like you said, other designers beat them to the punch. i've seen defenders point out that the CP version has a lined bodice but... one can add a lining to any dress. i do understand that perhaps they went with these simple designs since other designers don't include the plus sizes, and if they're starting with the building block basics, these are good places to start. ultimately, i was underwhelmed by the patterns, and kinda disappointed in the book, which i did buy. i really hope sewaholic comes out with some knitwear, or even CP with some more interesting knitwear.

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    1. I hear you trying to be fair to CP - and I applaud that. I'm feeling less kind about the recent offers than you. But maybe it's the start of more interesting things...

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  9. I haven't done the Lady Skater, but I've made several of Dixie DIY's Ballet Dress, which is the same thing, and which I've altered to it's a TNT. And you've reminded me I have some fabric to make a new one for spring. Must get on that!

    I agree completely with you about the new Colette offerings, and the brand in general.

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    1. I like that ballet dress too! Hope you've been busy today - I sure have (and it involves buying leather...) Shhhh.

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  10. Totally agree with you with regard to CP. From what I've seen on the blog she writes fantastic instructions, but I've seen lots of people struggle with the Clovers. Plus the styles are just too twee for me. I much prefer the more modern and grown-up styles of Style Arc, Marfy, and Burda.

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    1. Those Clovers were a disaster on 99 per cent of people. I mean, I actually made a pair that fit alright - but bottoms aren't my nemesis. And I'm sick and tired of everyone looking like they're 12 in 1962. Let's go a little au courant.

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  11. Yup, Lady Skater for me too. I had it before Colette's patterns came out, and don't regret that at all. I haven't made up my first yet (started muslining and then had to travel), but I do plan one in fabric with tiny knights all over it, if not vikings. I mostly sew things for work, so I wanted a dress that's definitively NOT for work.

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    1. Did you see the exchange above with Birdmommy? You have got to show us the vikings fabric dress - that Lady Skater will be SO unique! Weekend wear at its best!

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  12. I love the drafting on Colette patterns, and have only had to tweak the fit on my Macaron, and only then because I insisted on making the upper bodice in a knit. So I will be glad on completing both makes, especially since I already bought the pdf of the Moneta, because gathered skirts are my go-to, and a gathered skirt in a knit will be way less poofy than the many dresses that are my me-made go to garments. I have no doubt the LS is amazing too, because circle skirts are a flawless no-brainer.

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    1. Thanks for sharing your perspective L! I look forward to seeing how your new knits work out. Maybe you would like to make the LS as well and give us a comparison? I agree, a gathered skirt in a knit is the best way to experience that design feature.

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  13. I love this discussion! I was extremely underwhelmed by the latest CP offerings, in fact the more they put out, the less impressed I am. But these last two were just re-hashes of what is already available and neither were flattering on their stunning plus sized model.
    I am firmly in the Lady Skater camp having made four now. I love that it skims over my curves (read: lumps and bumps). The Moneta neckline is too high to be flattering on a larger bust and the gathered skirt would only be ok in a very light knit which then would cling everywhere else.
    Don't get me started on the tube skirt offering! I get that they are appealing to the beginner sewist, but that is almost patronising

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    1. Thanks! It seems we completely share the same perspective on this Lizzie...

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  14. I agree with you, the Moneta does not appeal to me, it reminds me of a 90s sundress. I bought the Lady Skater pattern and taped it together but haven't had time to make it yet. Now I'm a little afraid that the fabric I planned to use won't be nice enough. Hmm, wearable muslin with a cardigan I suppose

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    1. Oooh, the only thing worse than a 90s sundress is an 80s sundress :-) Don't worry about the fabric. Just treat this as a wearable muslin, as you've suggested. And have fun choosing another fabric that you'll love...

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  15. Actually, I bought the Moneta because it reminded me of those knit dresses I wore in the 80's. OMG, I had a black one that I loved so much and when I told my friend I bought a black sexy dress and she saw that, she looked at me like I was the saddest person in the world. But, I loved it, felt beautiful in it and wore the heck out of it, as did my friend who had a similar one in bright red.

    Of course, that was 80 pounds ago....let's hear it for the 80's. Heh heh heh.

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  16. I wish that I had seen this post back before I had bought the Moneta. I've made 2 and try as I want, I am not loving the gathered waist either. Skater all the way for me. At least my feeling meh on Moneta saved me from buying the Myrtle. I, too, hope Sewaholic comes out with a kick butt knitwear.

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