Almost Finished Object: Cashmerette Appleton Dress

I have so much to say about the Cashmerette Appleton Dress that I doubt I'll be able to fit it all into one post. No mind, let's get started... Here's what my first - not quite finished - muslin looks like:

The seams on this are a bit crunchy (due to Steam and Seam). Once I finish altering this, I'll throw it in the washer/dryer, pre-wear.

This fabric cost a fortune ($60). In the end, even without sleeves I used @2 yards of 70" wide fabric. This is not a cheap sew if you use pricey material. But use a good textile. It makes the process so much more pleasant!

The Good

OK, peeps, this pattern is terrific. It's enjoyable to sew (save a few itchy moments i.e. when attaching the neck/binding to the bodice). The instructions are clear, the drafting is excellent (amongst the best I've ever come across in indie pattern companies), the design is timeless. What can I say? Buy it.

I will absolutely make this dress again - next time with sleeves and with a few alterations:

• This time, I debated, and then declined to do a swayback adjustment (to account for the length I generally required in the front bodice, that I do not require in the back).  I should have done it. 

• While I find the construction really lovely, I feel that the the neck and bodice bands are too thick for me. Maybe it's because I left off sleeves. Maybe it's just a proportion thing. I find that the bands look a bit sturdy. Perhaps this is just my initial perspective, but I feel it calls attention to my bust in a strange way. There's enough ease in the (beautifully drafted) front bodice so that I can trim 0.5" of band next time. I suspsect that's what I'll do.

• The front fits well - even roomily (which I can rarely say). The back bodice, however, is too roomy. I've been thinking about how I might address this - I mean, for 60 bucks, I'm going to find a fix! - and I've come up with a plan: 1 fisheye dart on either side of the centre back (there's no CB seam since it's cut on the fold. The side seams sit nicely but there's too much fabric on the back (you can sort of see it with the vertical drag lines). I've never darted a back bodice without a centre seam so I hope this works. Please let me know if it's not possible!

• I lowered the ties by 1 inch. I'm really short in the waist but, if I weren't , I'd have lowered it by more like 2". I'm not into an empire bodice - and that's what this wrap dress produces.

• My bamboo fabric is beautiful. It drapes well. It's adequately robust. I even like the colour, in the end. But it's a bit princess-y - it does love to snag. Next time, I'm going to use a less fancy fabric (till I confirm my alterations). I mean, I'll ensure that it's a good fabric. But I don't think I need to spend another 60 bucks on this until I've got the fit sorted. It did take me a good 10 hours to put together, over 3 days, from start to finish.  I worked consistently and carefully. It's not perfect workmanship, of course, but it's alright. I imagine, next time out, I might shave a couple of hours off the process.

The Rest

• Somehow I manage to vertically hem the wrong side of the skirt (don't ask me which, at this point, it's a blur). To make it right, in the end, I hemmed them both. If this was the original instruction, I didn't pay attention, but next time I'll def hem both sides. It looks better.

• I found the tie-opening instructions strange and suboptimal. I used a serger (though I did reinforce the stitches with a zig zag on either side of the opening, in addition to stay stitching) and there's really no way to cleanly topstitch, after the fact. I've got to consider how I'll seam when I make it the next time...

• It doesn't matter what pattern you purchase, chances are it's not going to fit awesomely without alterations. There are a lot of great looking Appletons on the 'net but, don't be fooled, those sewists pre-altered things to suit their shapes (or they took great photos). If you have a sloper, utilize it. I sense that a you-altered Concord T is an excellent starting-off point for this pattern. By using my Concord "sloper", and knowing what I do of fit - with the exception of the back bodice width, my fit is pretty good. FWIW, I didn't even have to cut more than 1 inch from the length of the skirt and I'm only 5'3". But if I'd cut a 12 C/D, out of the box, it would have been a bad fit. Effectively, I cut a smaller than 12 (like a self-devised 10) with the size 12-14 bust. I'd call that a @10 E/F (Note: that size isn't part of the pattern draft. I altered it).

• I have a feeling that the underside of the wrap may hang a bit long - it's unclear whether I can fix this by tying things or if I'm going to have to alter to get an even hem. Others have had this issue but, apparently, it was fixed between the test-phase and when the pattern was released. I'm not so sure.

What I'm going to do next

• As soon as I have a moment (and I do hope this happens in the next week, though who can say), I'm going to dart the back bodice and I'll let you know how it lands. 

So, that's where I'm at. Thoughts about the Appleton? I'm particularly interested if you've made major alterations... Let's talk!

Update on that Stretch Linen Top: It is Totally See-Through

Um, ok. I'm glad I got Scott to photograph me in the linen before I went out because the top is freakin' see-through. Like, not posting it online for eternity, see-through. (Gillian - I see what you mean?!) So here's my revised word on stretch linen (ignorantly extrapolating from this one sort, what all would be like):

• I'll wear this top to my local, or in my back yard, or as a beach cover up, but the fabric is only nominally fabric, as it happens.

• Furthermore, the boxiness of the drape (that's how it goes with linen) is not particularly flattering on my body. In truth, I could easily modify the fit of the finished garment (not that I can generally get it up to alter something after sewing it), but people - it's transparent. 

• Were I to use this fabric again, I'd underline it in the same fabric to improve its opacity. Of course, that might wreck the finished garment in other ways.

This project has still been a success. I've learned more about the Concord pattern, something about a new-to-me fiber, my stitch work is not embarrassing and this experience will provide me with new ways of thinking about linen, stretch or no, and what patterns it might work with in the future.

OK, update on the update: I couldn't stop myself. I just serged off about 1" from each side-seam at the hip, tapering to 1/2" at the waist, up to the armscye, to see how this would affect the fit . The shirt fits me more attractively this way. There's so much to learn about the properties of linen! Not sure if it'll box out again but this is an interesting experiment. Of course, the top's still see-through, but vaguely less so, now that it doesn't hang away from my body as much as it did. I also think I should have cut the bindings (arm, neck) on the grain of stretch. The arms and neck are too high in this version, I suspect because I used the linen on the non-stretch. God help me, I think I may actually make this one again just to see. Don't worry - I'll try not to write 3 posts about it.

Does This Photo Make My Dress Form Look Fat?*

I can't believe I forgot to mention one more "extreme" quality of linen: It sheds like a bitch. Little bobbles fall out of it, mysteriously, the minute you cut into the fiber. This thing is still leaving behind a dusty trail. I'm sure this is temporary - till all of the short fibers dislodge - but it makes an order-driven sewist insane.

So here's a shot of the linen Concord tank - more to show the see-throughness than anything else. It does not look like this on me or I can assure you, I'd throw it out:

I've decided that I like the fluttery quality at the hemline. It doesn't fit like a T shirt would, but it's whimsical.

Here's a great opp to talk about Why Bra Fit Matters:

The very lovely Empreinte Emily - which does fit me, if slightly snugly at the centre gore, does NOT fit my dress form. Its boobs are wider and shallower than mine and it's already wearing a batten stuffed bra (under the cotton sleeve) to approximate my boob shape (which pushes the Emily underwires down still further). It's under bust measurement is larger than mine. So the reason this bra appears to be too long at the under bust and a bit pancakey is that the band is pulling the wires out of shape (again, dress form = wide with no give like an actual rib cage) and the actual upper and centre cup fullness, which the bra mandates, is not happening. I should have taken a shot of the upper cup without the tank. This is what we call size AND shape-mismatch peeps and it's not doing my dress form any favours. This is the basis of my tongue-in-cheek post title.*

You know I talk to a lot of women about bra fit. They email me. I meet them at parties. I work with them. And the most frequent thing I hear, once they transition into a bra of the correct volume and band size (generally about 2-3 cup sizes larger and 2 band sizes smaller than they imagined they'd require), is that they feel thinner. Sure, they also say they feel more gorgeous (and not because they feel thinner) and graceful. But I suspect the reason that these peeps feel thinner is because their breasts aren't floating, unsupported under a boob-hat. Especially if one has projected breasts that are not self-supporting, the lift provided by a well-fitted bra accentuates a distinction between the full bust and the underbust / waist area. That almost always lengthens the silhouette.

This is a great teachable moment about how shape is as important as size in ensuring that you're wearing the correct bra fit. It can take dozens of tries before you find a bra that suits your breast shape, but when you do, you will feel gorgeous. And, once you understand what sort of bra shape actually works on you, you'll save a lot of time because you'll be able to avoid those shapes that are never going to suit.

At any rate, there is no bra that I own that is ever going to fit the form so I went ahead with this one.

About the See-Through: I think this shot overestimates the translucency of the top because the dressform is cotton-white. I'm going to wear this today and, if I can bring myself to, I'll get my friend to take a photo. I think this top deserves a bit more reality than is in evidence here, even if I am a wuss about the selfies.

I Am Talking 'Bout the Linen*

Where to begin?

I am still nowhere with the Appleton dress because a) it's too hot to tape things (not complaining!) and b) I got derailed by that piece of linen after reading about Gillian's experience.

Brief Sidebar: It's fucking gorgeous outside, given that it's hotter than hell, and I'm enjoying it tremendously, with a glass of (unfortuntately) chilled Tatone. That red is way to heavy to chill - or to drink today. Note: I'm not the one who put it in the fridge so I will complain - but I don't have the discipline to wait till it warms up. I've been sewing for a long time...

OK, back to the stretch linen. I have so many feelings about it:

• It's a weird little fiber. I think you have to view it like a plant, more than a textile. It's so natural and farm-y that it's hard to begrudge it.

• It takes everything personally, but it sews up beautifully. What I mean is, Lord, don't stretch this shit because post-stitch "recovery" is not in its skill set. In an unheard of move, I washed it again after sewing, so that I can see how the fabric is actually going to hang. Note: I did not machine dry it as that's not how I pre-treated it. I believe that linen should be air-dried. In truth, it only takes 10 minutes to go from soaking to wearable. Having said all this about the memory issues, it loves a serger, a machine, a coverstich. It's just happy to be there.

• It really is fucking see-through! I'm cool with that. When it's hot enough to wear, I'm not going to care. And my bras are so gorgeous, they deserve a bit of play. But I don't think I'll be wearing this to work...

• The stuff I bought is arguably of very high quality. There's no slub. The stretch-factor is about 40% (4 inches to 7 inches) on the cross grain. It does not stretch along the length. It doesn't get shiny with ironing. Alas, it's unfortunate that I neglected to lift my coverstitch needles adequately before yanking the yarn back to disengage the looper. But even that didn't ruin this fabric. It persevered. (A jersey would have been scratched into oblivion.)

And then there's how it sews up:

• I opted to make my 40 per cent stretch linen Concord in the same size as my others (which are 100 per cent stretch rayon jersey). My sense of linen is that it doesn't recover but it loves to stretch-stretch-stretch. Only wear will tell, but I think I made the right call. I did serge the side seams very close for a bit of extra roominess.

• Having said this, the Concord is drafted very amply in the hips so I think it might have been wise for me to have serged off more seam in that area.

• Furthermore, and I totally made this up on the fly, I opted to cut the binding (for neck and armscyes) on the length - so the only stretch achieved is from fabric ease (of which there is much). I didn't want these areas to bag out. I didn't know if this would work (so I pre-sewed and took quite a bit of time pinning etc.) but it was worth the effort. 

• I'm glad I opted to forego the sleeves. Linen and sleeves are a really weird combo that I've never been into.

• Peeps, my stitch work on this project is fine. I took 3 hours to sew a sleeveless T shirt which means I took my time and I love the end result. Of course, it's a fucking black fabric with black thread so no one will ever know!

I will post a photo of this Concord hack (prob on my dressform) once it dries, and I'm calling this project a success. Will I run out to buy 100 bucks worth of stretch linen any time soon? Um, no. Might I make up a Kielo maxi using it - next year, say? Perhaps. And I'm glad to learn more about a new fiber, even one that doesn't innately thrill me.  I actually think I'm more into linen yarn than linen fabric -and even that is something I've only forayed into once.

PS: I think I may actually have enough fabric to make one more of these...

*Unless you're Gen X or older, this will probably mean nothing to you, but there's a HIDEOUS song by England Dan & John Ford Coley (I actually had to look up who sings it), from the '70's, called I'd Really Love to See You Tonight. It's a scourge. At any rate, one of the lyrics in the chorus is: "I'm not talkin' 'bout movin' in" and it sounds EXACTLY like: "I'm not talkin' bout the linen". Once you've heard it, you'll never be able to unhear it. So proceed with caution. I guess I should try harder with my post title puns if they actually require a footnote explanation.

Vacation, Part 3

OK, today is when I cap the lid on Spendapalooza 2016. I went out today for fabric and came back with yarn (and fabric) and I didn't go to the cheap places.

What I discovered, to my shock, as I walked past Americo is that its closing its only bricks and mortar shop after 10 years. Apparently, new owners bought the building and raised the rent to twice the current amount. Happily, the owner is content to explore new distribution models - and the popular online shop will remain open. But I will miss this lovely retail space, an oasis in the ugly. So how could I say no to 4 skeins of Briza for the price of 3 - especially given that this store does not do sales? (Note: Sale is in-store only.) I have it on good authority that there will still be a place to purchase this brand, in store, once Americo shutters on August 6.  Stay tuned for more details. And no, I did not buy this (or my Charlevoix haul) with any firm plans. I realize that's not in keeping with my new knitting/stash mindset but, whatevs. It's my vacation and yarn is like sheep you can knit with.

Americo Original Briza in Bark

This neutral colourway is called Bark and it's a natural grey meets brown. The construction of the alpaca/bamboo blend is chainette, a yarn ply I've tended to avoid in the past - but which I'm now embracing for its ability to interject airiness into an otherwise dense fabric. It can be knit on size US 5 needles to produce a light-weight garment OR on a US 2.5 for a heavier end result.

After this stop, I continued 3 seconds down the block to my original destination: Chu-Shing where I bought 3 yards of this bamboo jersey (70 wide):

It looks grey in the photo above (doesn't everything I buy?) but it's actually pretty damned bright periwinkle, in a way I hope is not too twee. Here's the thing, I'd like to embrace a new colour - and a bright one - but I'm not quite in a "look at me" peacock blue mood. This fabric may meet my needs, or not. I guess only time will tell.

My goal over the next few days is to make the second of my sleeveless Concord T hacks (using a cerise jersey stash remain). It's cut and ready to go. Then I need to tape, alter and cut the Cashmerette Appleton dress. You'll recall that the reason I went to extensive mods on the fab Concord was to save myself from some unknowns when first making this wrap dress. I hope this pays off!

I think I'm going to cut a sleeveless Appleton, given the time of year and the fact that I can always put on a little sweater if it gets chilly inside. This fabric is very pricey at 28 bucks a yard - I'm sure last time I went in there it was 24. (Admittedly, this time they gave me 3 meters for that price because I mentioned my discontent about being short on fabric when last I purchased.) Point is, I don't want to use up tons of fabric on my first go round (even if the pre-modified Concord provides a protective factor). If I can get 2 dresses out of this yardage - or a dress and a top - that would be preferable.

Then, though this was not on the agenda, when I saw it, I had to buy 1.25 yards of stretch linen! Remember when I wondered about whether this exists for home-sewists? Apparently, it does! The yardage below is actually black but it's overexposed to better show the drape and weave.

And just to be boring capitalize on prior alteration success, I'm going to make yet another sleeveless Concord T with it to see if I can get with sewing stretch linen. In truth, linen and I are not natural friends, but how can I learn about new fabrics if I don't give them a try? What if this produces a gorgeous end result? I'm a bit bored by the same-y Tencel, Modal and Bamboo options I've got at my access. Alas, the linen isn't cheap either (25.00/yard) but, if by some chance I love it, I could go crazy and make a Kielo maxi with some more of it, next.

I've Instagrammed the crap out of this day, including pics of a great lunch and a better shot of the Briza, so hop on over if you want the play-by-play.

Curious to know if any of you has made the Appleton without sleeves? Have you knit with Briza? Are you glad I'm the one spending all the money here while you get to live vicariously? One thing's for certain, the yarn stash is closed. I've now replenished all the space in my yarn box and, till the new is used, there will be much dreaming about what to make with what I already own.

From La Ferme to Le Spa Kristin

It's a spectacular day where I live and I'm happy to watch it from in here. Quinoa cooks while I drink some green juice and a turmeric shot. (Damn straight that quinoa's got butter in it. What am I, an ascetic?)

The Good and Turmeric booster from Greenhouse Juice

I'm wearing my new Concord T (the sleeveless hack) and I freakin' love it, even if my pre-vacation stitching handiwork is lacking. In truth, the fabric was more difficult than I imagined it would be...

It's Spa Kristin here. I've put on a face mask. I've body scrubbed. I've slathered everything with organic potions. I've put on my essential oil diffuser. I'm considering my next yoga practice as I'm in quite a bit of pain. I'm wondering about which half-done knitting project to pick up. I'm wondering about whether it's sacrilege to watch Netflix on a perfect summer day. I sent Scott out for a very fine Sauvingnon Blanc. Dinner's going to be here soon enough and, while I'm totally working the clean living angle, one's organic broth with vegetables and pastina needs a pairing.

(I've also paid bills, unpacked, cleaned, nagged at the child to clean and organized my life to the best of my ability given that I'm not really into it. I will assure you that throwing money at things comes with a serious downside. Lord. While I will never regret having purchased my new wrap - which I wore daily in Quebec while every chic woman complimented me in French - I might have waited for a less spendy moment.)

To return to the whole juice thing, just for a minute, I do want to mention how life changing that wretched juice fast was for me the winter before last. While I will never forego food purposefully again, the experience taught me that no-sugar green juice and I are weirdly compatible. Moreover, there is no turmeric shot in the GTA that I haven't tried at this point. And, well, you know of my homemade almond milk obsession...

Lots of people look at me like I'm insane when I tell them about my propensity to drink cold-pressed juice. It's not the drinking that shocks them so much as the paying a fortune for juice that's gone in 5-20 minutes. They don't even have cold-pressed shops in Quebec, as far as I can tell (at least not that I could find). Before I got into it, I was convinced that the juice thing would last about 5 minutes and then everyone would be out of business. (BTW - that's what I thought about online shopping, too, back in 1993.) Now that I've experienced the strange, deep cell-plumping feeling, that comes of drinking really high-quality vegetable juice, I'm frankly hooked. I do not believe it is mere placebo. The greens are delicious and intense and they make my body feel lively, even as pain is hovering. Furthermore, it's a massive haul of vitamins in every glass but you don't even have to chew - nor is there any of that hideous foam that comes from home-juicing! I dislike the tree-texture of many green vegetables even as I quite like the taste. Be ware, however, of the green juices with any amount of sugar. Very quickly they devolve into a fruit drink which does not leave one with liveliness, with that vitamin-y glow. If you want to drink sugar (and I don't recommend it), I suggest you do it with a nice Sauvignon Blanc. Or in the form of a macerated date in a glass of almond milk. Either is quite good. :-)

At any rate, off to eat some organic black quinoa. Ever had it? It's actually way better than the other colours. It's much crunchier - almost like popcorn in a way - and it's got a deeper flavour than the white and red varietals. If only I had some sheep to pet.

Vacation, Part 2

So I managed to pull it back from the edge, btw, which you could not help to notice if you follow me on Instagram.

Baie St. Paul is in that class of  "most gorgeous places in the world". I cannot begin to explain how it lifted my spirits:

The view from le Mouton Noir

Someone's side garden...

Someone's else's side garden. Not joking.

Flood plain at high-tide

Is this not the bad-assest cow on the planet??

I realize that my hipster/hobby farm experience at La Ferme would put me in that dubious class of bourgeoisie that every so often gets its head chopped off, but don't let that drab website fool you. It's a paradise here. It's actually hard not to laugh every time one looks right, at a piglet, only to look left at an outdoor bath-spa. Allow me to clarify - it's amusing and entirely ok with me.

This is by no means the first time I've been to this town. Scott's grandmother comes from the area. But is is the first time I've stayed - largely cuz this is the only time in a long time that I found the will to drive and, concurrently, La Ferme was in operation. I'm not one of those small-town B&B-goers. Bad decor ruins my mood. (Yeah, I know, another of those off-with-her-head sentiments but really, I become suicidal at the sight of rain. I'm a bit of a Bronte character at this point, non?) At any rate, the eco-chic/minimal shit going down was just my scene (if they did take it a bit far) and I could easily see myself staying at this place for a week or two.

Our goal, going forward, is to use BSP as a new experience of Quebec, the province. Alas, the city, for me, is done. Don't get me wrong, if you've never gone there, go! Not this year, though. This year they're having a weak moment. But I've seen it adequately and I'm really getting into the country lifestyle. (OK, the country with manicured lawns and restaurants, admittedly, but every transition in its time.

After we headed back to QC, to grab the train, we ended up, for one more night, in Mtl:

The view from one of our window banks. It really is a spectacular room...

Huitres from Salle a Manger

Mtl iconography

The city really pulled it out for us last night, even if we did crash (in one of our many food comas) at 9:30 pm. Some peeps were playing a Robert Lepage-esque film on the wall diagonally across from ours. It was very cool.

The Gault hotel is very special, inasmuch as one doesn't go there often, but I've been throwing money at things these days. Sometimes you need sanity more than prudence, you know?

I'm on the train right now, drinking some sketch red wine, waiting for dinner. There's been a total chaos here. They oversold the car. Every stop it gets more complicated. And then there's the idiot playing loud music through the headphones two seats away. I know - at least I've got a seat - but honestly, they tell you to turn down your fucking headphones when you board for a reason.

Tomorrow begins phase 2 of this fortnight-long vacation. It's the phase when lots of cold-pressed vegetable juices come to my door at @5am. When I eat brown rice with chicken broth and celery. Don't misunderstand - I'm not on a fast! But I've eaten and drunk SO much in the last 8 days (including one, life-memorable 9 course tasting menu at L'Initiale which I couldn't begin to describe) that my kidneys are sore. I need to tone it down. Yeah, I may eat out, I may have a glass of wine - but it will be very regular-fare. I've also got some appointments to deal with my back. I really don't know what's up. It's possible I may have pinched a nerve. It's very odd... And I've got some myofascial and yoga practices planned, around sewing.

In truth, if I don't feel like sewing, I won't. I suspect I'm going to want to, though. I mean, I'm having a moment. But this next week is about introversion. I'm going to do what I will.

BTW - if you're wondering about M, she is feeling much better. I do think that her blood test will show mono, but she's most definitely not as bad off as she was mid-week. Throughout the last week,  Bill, Nicole, Sandra and Hilary have all kept her company, made sure she was eating healthy food and spent time with her.  I feel incredibly grateful to them all.

Soon we'll see if she's maintained (or reconstructed) my expectation of a Kristin-clean house. I am a dreamer, after all... Stay tuned.