When Plans Overtake Planning

While this isn't a regular occurrence, it's become apparent that I've overextended myself. Yeah, I've got a great summer crafting plan. The challenge is that I've also got SO much fucking stuff to do, I'm having difficulty fitting it into the day, and that's before the crafting.

I do not like to miss deadlines. I'm a planner to my core and I take it seriously. And yet, let's get a grip, this is my freakin' hobby. Oh, it's the most robust, tripartite hobby ever (IMO): sewing, knitting, blogging. But in the next month I've got things afoot at work, a house to summer-up (and it's not going well given my total apathy and how much the winter trashed things), a kid to get through grade 8 grad, a kid to pack up for a month to go to see my parents in NC, (theoretically) some serious house repairs - or potentially big reno - to plan (no one's returning our calls) and a really big-deal birthday experience for my husband. He's about to turn 50.

Have I ever told you how much I love being the younger woman?

I can go into a small amount of detail about the party-planning, which began before my mother's illness (she's doing very well these days, happily!), shut down as I had other things to think about and picked up again after Xmas. While I was to keep a very big vacation a very big secret, in the end, I went with the Alain Botton (highly, and likely incorrectly, paraphrased) philosophy: Travel is 30 per cent in the planning and anticipation, 50 per cent in the memory and 20 per cent in the momentary experience. I've given my husband some inkling of what's to come, but not the full story.

Let's just say, I've got secrets packed within secrets and the one he knows about is Europe. We're going to Provence, Languedoc and Barcelona for an intensely-needed recharge. But what I've got to do before we get on that plane falls within the spectrum of superhuman (given where I'm at energetically, right now).

Of course, there's much more to this story. It's an epic story. And I'm sure you'll hear the fun parts over the next month and a bit.

What you may not see much of is finished objects. Which is why it's good I call the shots in this universe. Let's think of Summer Crafting as a Summer-Fall experience. On the plus side, I won't need to figure out where to store a bunch of new-made things too quickly.

Summer Crafting: Getting Somewhere with the Hepworth Dress

OK, this dress (as matronly as I EVER intend to wear) is not perfect by a long-shot, but it is, well, wearable. Moreover, the sloper, on the basis of what this muslin has taught me, is now in excellent shape:

No, I couldn't take a good photo to save my life the other day, but I've learned that people don't really care. They just like live-action shots, apparently, gorgeous or no. Alas, vanity is such a bitch.

Intriguingly, this version was almost lawn fodder. So close to being someone else's dress because, the v-neck was too long (aka puffing away from my chest and not sitting flat). Happily, some friends referred to the fix, shown below as, ahem, the deflated upper bust adjustment:

I invested precisely 10 minutes in making the alteration and sewing in 2 pin tucks on either side, where the gape was. I didn't remove the facing (just sewed it together with the outside fabric). I didn't use a ruler (I couldn't be bothered), I didn't make the stitching lovely (you can't see it). But, man, if it didn't fix the problem on the fly!

Everyone was all: I love that neck detail!

Note: I altered the pattern, for next time, to shorten the neck (closed dart) but to deepen the V, which is really still too high. This is an area where depth and length are very different things, though they seem one and the same.

Another problem, in this version of the dress, has been corrected on my newly-minted, hard-won (and sort of accidental) woven princess seam sloper, for the next go round:

See how the back bodice is still to long at the base of the armpit? It produces that little bubble (which is nowhere near the disaster, which occurred at the waistline, in the last version). I've fixed that by taking another dart wedge from the centre back seam tapering to nothing at the armscye. In total, I've removed 3 inches from the back length of this pattern and lengthened the front by 1.5 inches. Yes, peeps, that gives me a level waistline.

Finalement, Andrea (who took these pics at our recent photo shoot) and Sara were on about the fun photos, which was code for doing crazy things with facial expressions or arms. Given that this is the first time I've shaved my armpits in about 6 months, I'm all for showing them off: 

What do I think of this pattern?

• I have nothing but positive feedback about it, despite the challenges I faced, given my shape and proportions. It's beautifully drafted. It's highly wearable. I believe it will work on many bodies. It can be dressed up or down.

• Having said that, I do find this dress on the conservative side for me. It really does suit my sister's style more than mine - particularly if made in a conservative fabric (like this rayon challis). Next go, I will shorten it by an inch or two, and I intend to use contrasting fabrics for the bodice and skirt. I'm thinking of making it in more structured (vs drapey) wovens or stretch wovens.

• This pattern is drafted for a woven fabric and, despite the fact that I like to believe this challis has 10% stretch (to make me feel like fitting will be easier), I've been advised that I'm high on drugs. All the stretch in it is mechanical and it's minimal. 

• When next I use a stretch woven for the bodice, I'll need to confirm that it has good recovery and minimal stretch. I do have a swiss dot in black that fits that description and I think it would go well with a rayon "denim" skirt (the likes of which I used to make this wardrobe staple).

• While it's not overly flattering in the photos, it is a very lovely dress in action. I got lots of compliments on it - on fabric, cut and fit. I'll wear it, if only for the novelty, until I have a better fitting version.

So, thoughts or feelings? Would you make this dress? Do you like the fabric? Do you find it ridiculously conservative? Let's talk!

Gorgeous Knitting

I suggest you head on over to Sara's blog today, to check out her latest finished object, the Channel Cardigan by Jared Flood.

In truth, it's not her latest finished object. Somehow she's knit 3 sweaters and two shawls in something like a month. She's a speed-knitter (and I'm not using the term loosely).

If you didn't want this cardigan before, you sure will want it now. And apparently it's not as challenging as the 4 out of 5 star rating would lead you to believe.

I, for one, will admire it from afar. It looks pretty damned complicated up close.

PS: There's a rare sighting of me at the end of Sara's post - in the most absurd posey-pose - photo courtesy of Andrea. As A is moving at the end of the week (sob), we had to get together to post shots of our Spring Shawl KAL finished garments. More on this to follow in three upcoming posts... We intend to saturate the internet!

Are You Afraid of Your Clothes?

Hear me out. I know you don't shrink at the sight of your closet, like, with fear. I realize that clothing is not like, say, spiders (I can barely type that word, those things freak me out so much). But I'm amazed by the plethora of posts out there about culling one's wardrobe. Secretly, if you've been blogging/reading the blogs as long as I have (almost 7 years), those posts are all popular, all the time. They're not having a special moment.

Different blogs take a different tack: There's the professional sewing blog method (organization as art form), the blogger you know who loves all of her things and is trying to come to terms with near-hoarding, the fast-sewist, her counterpart the "evolved" sewist, the non-fashion blogger who tries to make sense, existentially, of the things she cannot part with for sentimental reasons. There's the growing-family-in-600 sq feet-in-NYC scenario. It goes on...

All of these have one thing in common: They dwell on clothing and what should be kept (on attractive wooden hangers) and what should be culled and how.

Look, I'm all for wooden hangers - which you can use even if your wardrobe is bursting at the seams. But I think the art form scenario (particularly) gets lost as it's conflated with style - not clothing-style, per se, but life style.

Mind you, I'd like to consider this from a slightly different angle - the angle I am reminded of whenever I read these posts (which I love, of course, in full disclosure).

Lots of people appear to be paralyzed in the act of opening the cupboard door. Lots of people keep buying and making the same things over and over again because they're not willing/able to see what's within. I sense a deep metaphor here, but I digress.

What's the fear?

Well, I can tell you mine:

• Will bugs have eaten something precious? (This one's near and dear right now.)
• Will that gorgeous thing I've loved and worn for years actually fit me this season?

I love organizing things. I'm not quite as quick as Andrea, for example, who can organize things in 3 minutes with the power of her mind (even crazy hoarder-shit), but I have my own way: It's called compulsive orderliness. I don't recommend it, but there's certainly an up side.

The reason I allowed two seasons to go buy without taking serious stock (which I always do - I'm a one-in, one-out kind of girl) is because I didn't want to address the changes in my landscape - interior and exterior. I was afraid of what I might find.

Oh, and I was right to be afraid. A ton of that stuff doesn't fit and a small subset had bug bites.

But, y'all know: there's nothing to fear but fear itself. The net result of my ripping everything apart (including the ever-burgeoning fabric and yarn stash, egad!) is this:

• Everything smells gorgeous. That's what happens when you wash everything in cedar.
• My creativity was stimulated. I upcycled fabric to make delightful sachets of lavender - see bullet above.
• All of my beautiful garments are easily accessible on those wooden hangers.
• They all fit beautifully.
• They're all in perfect condition. 
• They're entirely aligned with my emerging aesthetic (one based on my changing shape and new instincts - got to love evolution!)

I sense that there are many issues at play when it comes to culling the closet - but perhaps the most paralyzing is sentimentality. I am extremely fortunate (IMO) in that I can (mentally and actually) recycle everything. If I don't need it, it goes on the front walk and it's gone in minutes. I don't care if I spent 200 hours making that thing (unflattering suit, anyone?), if I don't want it, it's gone.

Mind you, one has to take the first step, opening the door and reviewing, and that's where I was stuck. In full disclosure, my wardrobe was not disastrously full on the basis of the space I have to keep things. I am very tidy by nature. I don't want to make this seem like I was in for the purge of the century, as many others likely should be. When it was time, I sucked it up. A moth helped to motivate me.

And yet I got rid of 40 items with nary a second thought. Better yet, I decided that there are certain things I'm never buying or making again (famous last words, I realize). There's a time and place for the plastic-coated leggings and I feel I'm not there anymore.

So, I'd like to know if you're afraid of your clothes. And, if yes, why? Please, do let me know! It will enrich our organization post-reading all the more.

Knitting Patterns: What I've Got My Eye On

Let's switch gears and talk about knitting. Let's not dwell on the Aisance Cardigan which continues apace. (I was getting all smug about being ahead of schedule on this project until it occurred to me that I'm 33 per cent finished in 3 weeks. That means I've got to kick some butt if I want to get it finished by June 27 - not an artificial deadline. Anyway, we can dwell on the features of the cardigan another day...)

I love to read posts about new-to-me patterns. In fact, it's one of the predominant ways in which I discover designs, which I later go on to knit. On that point, other ways in which I discover new patterns include the ever-enjoyable Recently Added Patterns feature in Ravelry, the Ravelry Projects and Queue pages of my Friends, samples at knit stores, and electronic magazines (which, amazingly, one can "borrow" from the Toronto Public Library - and once borrowed they are the Borrower's forever. There aren't licenses for emags, apparently, so when you check it out, you keep it.)

But on to the eye-candy. Here are some patterns that have caught my eye, lately, not necessarily because I'll ever make them, but because they're highly intriguing:

Maja-Kiito by Marita Rolin

I love the asymmetric lines of this vest/sleeveless top and the use of colour blocking. It seems so elegant and easy to wear. Mind you, it could also make me look like a tent, if not perfectly fitted. As I appear to be moving away from my fitted-knits comfort zone - I'm tending towards the avant garde in handknits, these days - the Maja-Kiito is on the table as a potential future project.

Enchanted Mesa by Stephen West

OK, I'm never going to make the Enchanted Mesa. It's entirely nutty (click the link to see other versions). This kind of asymmetry would make me insane. But I find it interesting to see how attracted to asymmetric knits I happen to be. And it sure is imaginative. Moreover, it's a perfect design for using up ends of skeins.

Nearly Chanel Suit by von Hintern Stein

Just in case you think I've abandoned my highly-structured roots, let me introduce you to the lovely Nearly Chanel Suit. I love it. But I sense it might be more trouble than it's worth.

Mariposa Top by Americo Original

I recently wrote about my new attraction to Americo. A couple of weeks ago, when Andrea, Sara and I wandered in there (when I bought the Abrazos for the Karner Shawl linked to above), Andrea was all on about this sweater (the Mariposa, pictured above) she'd seen in the window, which was no longer on the shop floor. Happily, it was in the back and, when the owner brought it out for our perusal, we three tried it on and it looked amazing on each of our very different body types.

Andrea bought the yarn immediately - that's the only way to get the pattern btw. Americo is outrageously short-sighted, IMO, in this respect. Cuz, in the absence of the ability to touch the yarn, are you really going to pay the high-price for it - and then to have it shipped? This woman could be making a real dent on pattern sales via Ravelry and it would really increase the profile of her brand. On a related note, Americo is offering free shipping within Canada till May 31. On another related note, I am as irritated by Canadian vendors who ding international clients as by the Americans who do the same.

At any rate, it took all of my willpower not to buy 4 extra skeins of the Abrazos (I'd already bought one for the Karner Wrap) but I decided to exhibit restraint. I do that occasionally. Especially when the store is down the block. This sweater will cost 100 bucks plus tax (or tax and shipping) - probably about 120 once all is said and done - so it's not a cheap knit. But I can assure you, it's worth it.

So, today's questions: Which is your fave of these? Have you made any of them and, if yes, tell us about it! How do you source new knit ideas? Let's talk!

What Do You Call A Non-Success (When You're Not Interested in Failure)?

Work with me. This version of the Hepworth Dress is not, forgive the phrasing, worth getting hepped over.

What's worse is that the error is all mine. I altered the back bodice (removing the wedge from the centre back, tapering to nothing at side seams), and somehow thought it would be a good idea to add the length back in below the (smushed out) dart. I don't know why. I've never done it before.

So, amazingly, this thing fits pretty perfectly on me in the front bodice (sadly, not on the stupid waste-of-money dress form):

I modified the neckline to a high V. The dress, as drafted, has a very high jewel neckline.

The reason it's so gapey at the underarms parallel with the bust is that the bust on the dress form is not as projectile as mine. It's not exactly observable, but the bust needs more padding (than the dress form's) in order to fit at the side underarm.

Anyway, I'm not showing this to get praise. I will never wear this thing. My sister, if the other Hepworth fits, is about to inherit a second. Otherwise, it's lawn fodder.

Have a look at the back:

Yup, that's a dealbreaker.

Here's the thing - this (hopefully) will illustrate clearly the rationale behind my swayback adjustment as mitigator of the full bust adjustment:

• I need more length in the front bodice than the back. I actually added 1.5 inches to the front bodice and (when I redid the back alteration after this debac(k)le (ha!)) I removed 1.5 inches from the centre back length. That means that the centre front is 3 inches longer than the centre back. Of course, they come to the same length at the side seam or this alteration wouldn't work. BTW, the waist seam lies completely horizontal to the floor, so it works.

• My breasts project immediately and are very close set. My body, esp. my upper back, is narrow. They offset each other, to some extent - making my fitting issues easier than they otherwise would be. Mind you, if I were wider, the standard FBA (which doesn't work for me) would likely work much better. So maybe it's no easier...  Let's say it is a useful proportion for me in the absence of the one that suits the standard FBA.

• When I "FBA" princess seamed garments (only necessary with a woven or stretch woven bodice) I have to add a ton of extra width on the side front piece at a very specific area that quickly tapers to nothing above and below. I add practically no width to the front because my breasts are close-set and I don't want the move the seam off the apex. (Talk about nightmare easing. Trust me people, there are few who can ease a bust line seam like me.) What I do to offset the width on the side front is to is add a ton of length to the centre front. That way the seam that connects the side front to the front piece (the princess seam) is of equivalent length on both pieces. You've got to walk the seams to confirm...

I don't have a sway back at all. Years of yoga have beat that out of me (not that it was my shape tendency in the first place). But I do have a much longer front torso than back torso because my boobs are the inverse of the swayback - and then some! Sure, if I were wide or long waisted, I don't think this technique would work. But I'm not.

So, if you are short of waist, have proportionately close-set large breasts of immediate projection and you're narrow, consider this alteration and do let me know if it works for you!

But let's talk about the dress...

Now, onto Hepworth number 3. I've already cut out the fabric* and I'll sew it up next weekend. If it doesn't fit, after I threaten suicide, I imagine I'll make it again (though I really hope it doesn't come to that). I'm actually very close. And I'm simply not prepared to wear anything that doesn't fit almost perfectly. (Perfection is an illusion and I'm not into magic tricks.)

Now, do I like the dress? I don't know. It's borderline "suburban soccer mom", though (as drafted) it fits (sexily) 2 inches above my knee and I'm short. (BTW, if you are even of moderate height or long of leg - or you don't like showing off your legs - add at least 2 inches to the bottom...) Also, the V neck and boobs do downplay the suburban soccer element.

Here's the thing: I think I can work it. I don't know that this pattern does much to obviate the twee, but I can make it in another fabric once I perfect the fit. In a stiff fabric, this could look kind of Jetson. In a lace overlay, it could look very elegant. As is, with a slim cardigan and the right shoes it looks quite urban. Alas, I don't wear those shoes much these days, but that's not the point.

So here's to non-success that isn't failure!

Thoughts?

* Here's where having bought 3 yards of that rayon challis is going to stand me in good stead. Sorry to be utterly wasteful, but it's the cost of producing garments that fit well. I did have to cut out the back facing in another fabric (and I could care less, truthfully, it's the fun of handmade to be quirky). Anyway, I bought 3 yards of challis to muslin the Rosie top and I've used every square inch on the Hepworth. Hmmm...

Summer Crafting: The High-Level Plan

I could probably craft from now till October and not finish all of my imaginary projects. Alas, one's got to make choices - even with the leisure activities - so I've put together a list of sewing and knitting to take me from here till summer's end. 

Sewing

Hepworth Dress (Sinbad and Sailor):  

OK, this one was NOT on my list until last weekend. But, having made Allison's dress, and finding that the fit was unintentionally close to my dimensions, I cannot resist giving it a go. It helps that I've got a fabric I believe will work very well. I'm going to lead with this garment since I've just tackled a version and it's fresh in my memory. Also, it's very useful for summer weather. With a cropped cardigan, it's perfect for work or weekends.

Fabric:

Rayon Challis with 10% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Rosie Top (StyleArc): 

Well, you know this one's been in play for quite a while. I ran out of fabric, then I had to make the "bridesmaid dress" (if we can call it that)... But it's time to return to this "reverse princess seam" top. (Note how the lines are convex rather than concave to the centre front of the top.)

I'm at the next muslin moment but, if this top fails again, I may well put it away for the summer. I'm not interested in arguing with my creative endeavours. Five muslins is enough, IMO.

Fabric:

Silk Crepe with 15% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Originally, my intention was to muslin use the rayon crepe (above), and I likely still will. However, my intended fabric is a beautiful silk crepe, reminiscent of the one gifted to me by S, my fitting friend. Be assured, I will not cut into this until I'm confident about the garment fit.

Rachel Comey Pants - V1323 (VoguePatterns): 

These are the pants I've been dared to make by Sara. In truth, I like them, so I'm game. Really, who doesn't like elastic waistbands when they're used intentionally, and as a design feature. My hope is that the fitting isn't too tricky given that I've done some work on crotch curves with other stretch woven pants patterns.

Fabric: 

Royal Blue Stretch Broadcloth with 50% crosswise stretch

This broadcloth has a lot of stretch, though it is a woven (so it's suitable for these pants). As it happens, I am not overly thrilled with the weight of the fabric, or the quality. But I think it will work well for pants that need a very light hand.

Leather Tote (Making Leather Bags Craftsy Course): 

Well, I've talked this one up a lot. Now I've just got to make the thing! All of my notions, materials and gizmos are amassed. I'm truly excited to use my new roller foot. It's like Lego!

Materials:

Read more about these materials here...

Leather Skirt (from TNT high-waisted pencil skirt V8640): 

I've decided to cut my teeth on leather (as it were) with the bag (above). But once that's done, my goal is to make a sexy leather skirt. What better pattern to use than my standard high-waisted pencil? No need to reinvent the wheel...

Materials:

Read more about this lambskin from King Textiles in the Garment District

This absurdly gorgeous leather has a LOT of give because it is very soft lambskin. I do intend to line the skirt (at least partially) but that adds another element of complexity.

And if there's time...
 

My bonus pattern is the compelling Nettie body suit, which is SO my scene:

I seem to be very into the electric blues, lately, because this is the (long-loved) stash fabric I would likely use:

Jewel Blue modal (really, it's more purple than blue...) from Fabric Mart (I think)

Knitting

Aisance Cardigan (Kristen Johnstone): 

As you know, I'm currently working on this cardigan, a pattern I hope to complete before the end of June. As such, I'm including it in the Summer Crafting category. I figure, it spans the gap between spring and summer - and it is a substantial project.

Yarn:  

Shibui Staccato in Caffeine

Karner Wrap (Americo Original Design Team): July will be a wildcard month for me, from a crafting perspective, due to some interesting adventures I'm not at liberty to discuss (yet). Nonetheless, I do hope to have this stockinette shawl to keep my hands busy. Apparently it takes a very long time since it uses 1000 yards of laceweight yarn... Really, the pattern is not exciting. Mind you, the yarn is spectacular…

Yarn: 

Americo Original Abrazos Lace in Blue Ink from the Americo store in TO (the only one)

I never realized what a hub of amazing knitting options Toronto happens to be. Really, when it comes to yarn and leather, we have it going on! Americo, a store I've gone into on a few occasions, has never called to me the way it did on a recent visit. In the past, textured fibers have been a turn-off - as has cotton (a prevalent fiber in Americo yarns).  But I've lived to regret saying never, craft-wise, on a variety of occasions. Let's call this one of them.

See that amazing texture built into the yarn? It creates a distressed, almost burnout effect. And the colour is special - moody grey with blue subnotes. As you know, cotton is my least favourite knitting material on the planet (other than linen), but somehow, this cotton/bamboo blend has a beautiful drape (without being limp). It also has a nice feel – it’s not stringy.

And if there's time...

I'm utterly intrigued by this (small) garment, even if it is lacework:

Die Cut Vest by Sara Morris from Knit.Wear (the only knitting mag consistently worth buying, IMO)

It calls for a linen. That's not happening. I hate linen. It's like knitting with kitchen string. So who knows what I'd use instead? 

The Proviso
 

Needless to say, I reserve the right to change my mind. I mean, it's my freakin' hobby. In fact, since first I envisioned this list (a month ago), I've added to it, moved stuff around and removed the outliers. And who can say? I may decide that I don't feel like working indoors if the weather actually one day goes summery. 

Today's questions: Do you make a list of summer crafting projects? If yes, do you stick to it? And, while I'm asking... What do you think of my chosen projects? Which of these is your fave? Let's talk!