Not Coming Up Rosie

So the latest attempt at the Rosie Top was not a success. Mind you, I did have the meaningful opportunity to alter the pattern yet again! (Yeah, you can infer sarcasm.) It's going into the magic cupboard, where it will stay till after I get back from hols. There's only so much masochism one girl can take.

What went wrong? Well, though the last muslin (made of voile with very little mechanical stretch) fit well (once I altered it), the much more mechanically stretchy silk crepe version was somehow too small. As for next-wave alterations: I've increased the full bust volume at the side bodice, yet again, given myself another inch in the waist (it was prudent if not strictly necessary) and increased the peplum hem by 2 inches. I don't know what's up with that hem but I cannot seem to get it right.

I'm really convinced that next version will be the one that works, but I've said that 6 times now and, frankly, I don't have enough weekends in a row to keep at this thing.

I can't tell you how much I want to go out and spend a fortune on a silk crepe top right now, just to subvert the misery of yet another failure. But I'm on a tight budget and, something tells me, there will be a bit of Euro-retail therapy when I get to Barcelona.

In the meanwhile, my only recourse is to knit.

Here's the Karner Wrap pattern which I'm making with the Americo Abrazos (45% cotton and 55% bamboo):

This pattern comes with the Americo Abrazos yarn purchase. There's no way to buy it separately.

Let me say that this yarn is quite a trip. It's not quite kitchen string but it sure is moving in that direction. Having said this, the fabric it creates is appealing. It's like a burnout, lace effect. And the colour is superb. That photo doesn't do it justice.

Here's another of the yarn:

Even that photo isn't true-to-shade, it makes the yarn look much more grey (and less blue) than it actually is in real life.

Anyway, the Abrazos is, without a doubt, the thinnest yarn I've ever seen. It's like knitting with double-weight sewing thread. Occasionally the nubby part of the yarn comes to the fore and then it goes from thread-weight to sport-weight (I estimate). I'm really glad that my first foray with this yarn is making a stockinette rectangle with some rib at the edges. It's quite easy, despite careful attention, to drop stitches - particularly at the edges. If you're a loose knitter, like me, well - be that much more careful. I've had an issue already that I've opted to fix on the fly. Otherwise I'll be knitting this till the end of all time. As it is, I'm going to be knitting the 1028 yards for quite a while. I put in 2 hours last night and got a mere 20 rows deep. It doesn't make a dent in the skein. That's how skinny this yarn is.

Gotta say, it's perfect train knitting. No pattern required, no fitting necessary and, although the loops are loose (and that's after I went down a needle size!?) purling and knitting seem to be of similar complexity. It's not like the purl rows are slippery. The tension, which is lacy and weird, does seem consistent - even as it's unlike any I've knit before.

After the Aisance, still blocking BTW - Lord that thing absorbed a lot of water! - I need something binary.

I'm intrigued to know if I will learn to love knitting with this fiber or if I'll find it a necessary evil. I would never have bought the pattern if I hadn't seen how gorgeous and unusual the finished garment looks in real life. I do realize that this foray is a hop, skip and jump from linen (the yarn du jour, it would appear), but it in no way motivates me to move further in the direction of wiry, stringy yarn.

Today's questions: What do you think of linen? Or cotton? Or cotton-bamboo blends? Have you used the Abrazos or any other Americo yarns? What's your perspective? Oh, and while we're at it, what's the highest number of muslins you've ever made for one garment? Did you prevail in the end? Is that sucker still hiding out in your closet behind the tennis racket? Let's talk!

On Top of the Top?

OK, I'm getting somewhere with the Rosie Top. I almost qualified that. I'm the kind of girl who likes qualifiers. But I decided to go confidently. I mean, if nothing else, 6 muslins should buy one a little confidence, no?

I spent a couple of hours on the weekend (all the time in the universe I seem to have these days) making another muslin. A real muslin. Like the kind that only includes the bodice. The kind where you accidentally sew on seam inside out but it doesn't matter cuz you're just going for fit and you're going to rip out that seam anyway. I didn't want to take this route, but I knew in my gut it was the smart way to proceed. In the final analysis, I'm really glad I listened to my intuitive (if irritating) self, cuz the fit wasn't there.

Mind you, it was close.

The only thing I had to fix this go around was an excess length of fabric at the under bust. There was a section of about 3 vertical inches that was way too large. I think I shaved an inch of width off the under bust seam, in total, evenly from both sides of the "princess" seam. I know I just wrote about the need for me to remove fabric from the front piece only, but I've have altered this many times and added and removed fabric as many times as there are muslins. Furthermore, this seam is an inverse princess seam. My goal, in the end, was to keep the seam aligned with the bust. My fix does that.

The crazy thing about this pattern, as evidenced by photo (below), is that - given my short waist and proportionately projected bust - there are only about 2 inches of vertical ground between bust apex and the high-natural waist seam aka the base of the top (where the peplum begins):

The centre top piece is the side front bodice. The little bump out is the bust apex. Is that not the weirdest thing?

 Look, I'm fine with being short-waisted, but that's just crazy, even by my standards. It would appear that, because of the way the seams run on the front of the top, you can pretty well throw out all of the images you have in your mind about where things should, theoretically, stop and start.

Weird fact: This 5-piece, cut-on sleeve top is surprisingly tricky to alter.

But let's get back to confidence. The Hepworth Dress, which mysteriously taught me how to alter a standard-issue armscye princess seam to fit my body well, has (perhaps less mysteriously) also taught me lots about how I need to view bust fitting on all closely fitted woven garments.

OK, I'm not going for hubris here. I have much to learn about the fitted woven bodice as it pertains to my specific body, but I have made many strides of late.

Here's my point - and I'm talking to my future self here: Keep on. Even when you meet seemingly-endless disaster, keep on. Even when your fingers hurt from picking out stitches (and you still have to throw the thing in the bin), keep on. When you're motivated by the gorgeous end product of someone else, use the impulse and keep on. When you go through 6 yards of muslin fabric and you have to wait till more arrives (be grateful for the reprieve and) keep on.

Right this minute, there's likely some element of sewing that completely eludes you. I empathize. But I am absolutely certain that, in the absence of utter tenacity, non of us will prevail.

(And feel free to remind me of this if my next version doesn't work.*)

*Should that occur, this thing is totally pyre fodder.

Summer Crafting: The High-Level Plan

I could probably craft from now till October and not finish all of my imaginary projects. Alas, one's got to make choices - even with the leisure activities - so I've put together a list of sewing and knitting to take me from here till summer's end. 

Sewing

Hepworth Dress (Sinbad and Sailor):  

OK, this one was NOT on my list until last weekend. But, having made Allison's dress, and finding that the fit was unintentionally close to my dimensions, I cannot resist giving it a go. It helps that I've got a fabric I believe will work very well. I'm going to lead with this garment since I've just tackled a version and it's fresh in my memory. Also, it's very useful for summer weather. With a cropped cardigan, it's perfect for work or weekends.

Fabric:

Rayon Challis with 10% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Rosie Top (StyleArc): 

Well, you know this one's been in play for quite a while. I ran out of fabric, then I had to make the "bridesmaid dress" (if we can call it that)... But it's time to return to this "reverse princess seam" top. (Note how the lines are convex rather than concave to the centre front of the top.)

I'm at the next muslin moment but, if this top fails again, I may well put it away for the summer. I'm not interested in arguing with my creative endeavours. Five muslins is enough, IMO.

Fabric:

Silk Crepe with 15% crosswise stretch from Fabrications Online

Originally, my intention was to muslin use the rayon crepe (above), and I likely still will. However, my intended fabric is a beautiful silk crepe, reminiscent of the one gifted to me by S, my fitting friend. Be assured, I will not cut into this until I'm confident about the garment fit.

Rachel Comey Pants - V1323 (VoguePatterns): 

These are the pants I've been dared to make by Sara. In truth, I like them, so I'm game. Really, who doesn't like elastic waistbands when they're used intentionally, and as a design feature. My hope is that the fitting isn't too tricky given that I've done some work on crotch curves with other stretch woven pants patterns.

Fabric: 

Royal Blue Stretch Broadcloth with 50% crosswise stretch

This broadcloth has a lot of stretch, though it is a woven (so it's suitable for these pants). As it happens, I am not overly thrilled with the weight of the fabric, or the quality. But I think it will work well for pants that need a very light hand.

Leather Tote (Making Leather Bags Craftsy Course): 

Well, I've talked this one up a lot. Now I've just got to make the thing! All of my notions, materials and gizmos are amassed. I'm truly excited to use my new roller foot. It's like Lego!

Materials:

Read more about these materials here...

Leather Skirt (from TNT high-waisted pencil skirt V8640): 

I've decided to cut my teeth on leather (as it were) with the bag (above). But once that's done, my goal is to make a sexy leather skirt. What better pattern to use than my standard high-waisted pencil? No need to reinvent the wheel...

Materials:

Read more about this lambskin from King Textiles in the Garment District

This absurdly gorgeous leather has a LOT of give because it is very soft lambskin. I do intend to line the skirt (at least partially) but that adds another element of complexity.

And if there's time...
 

My bonus pattern is the compelling Nettie body suit, which is SO my scene:

I seem to be very into the electric blues, lately, because this is the (long-loved) stash fabric I would likely use:

Jewel Blue modal (really, it's more purple than blue...) from Fabric Mart (I think)

Knitting

Aisance Cardigan (Kristen Johnstone): 

As you know, I'm currently working on this cardigan, a pattern I hope to complete before the end of June. As such, I'm including it in the Summer Crafting category. I figure, it spans the gap between spring and summer - and it is a substantial project.

Yarn:  

Shibui Staccato in Caffeine

Karner Wrap (Americo Original Design Team): July will be a wildcard month for me, from a crafting perspective, due to some interesting adventures I'm not at liberty to discuss (yet). Nonetheless, I do hope to have this stockinette shawl to keep my hands busy. Apparently it takes a very long time since it uses 1000 yards of laceweight yarn... Really, the pattern is not exciting. Mind you, the yarn is spectacular…

Yarn: 

Americo Original Abrazos Lace in Blue Ink from the Americo store in TO (the only one)

I never realized what a hub of amazing knitting options Toronto happens to be. Really, when it comes to yarn and leather, we have it going on! Americo, a store I've gone into on a few occasions, has never called to me the way it did on a recent visit. In the past, textured fibers have been a turn-off - as has cotton (a prevalent fiber in Americo yarns).  But I've lived to regret saying never, craft-wise, on a variety of occasions. Let's call this one of them.

See that amazing texture built into the yarn? It creates a distressed, almost burnout effect. And the colour is special - moody grey with blue subnotes. As you know, cotton is my least favourite knitting material on the planet (other than linen), but somehow, this cotton/bamboo blend has a beautiful drape (without being limp). It also has a nice feel – it’s not stringy.

And if there's time...

I'm utterly intrigued by this (small) garment, even if it is lacework:

Die Cut Vest by Sara Morris from Knit.Wear (the only knitting mag consistently worth buying, IMO)

It calls for a linen. That's not happening. I hate linen. It's like knitting with kitchen string. So who knows what I'd use instead? 

The Proviso
 

Needless to say, I reserve the right to change my mind. I mean, it's my freakin' hobby. In fact, since first I envisioned this list (a month ago), I've added to it, moved stuff around and removed the outliers. And who can say? I may decide that I don't feel like working indoors if the weather actually one day goes summery. 

Today's questions: Do you make a list of summer crafting projects? If yes, do you stick to it? And, while I'm asking... What do you think of my chosen projects? Which of these is your fave? Let's talk!

Spring Sewing: Rosie Top - All the Other Muslins to Come

Do not think I've lost my interest in fitting the Rosie top, though truly I am coming to hate the process (as I always do). This is fitting a woven bodice, after all.

Fact is, I ran out of the burgundy fabric. Instead I used some butterfly charmeuse, alotted for lining. It has about the same stretch and it's drapey - but in every other way it's all wrong. It was a bitch to sew, it's shiny and slippery. Ugh. Really, 90 per cent of the time, one should use stash fabric for the purpose intended.

Needless to say that the butterfly fabric version is yet another muslin. Which it would have to be, even if I liked the fabric, because the fit is nightmarish in a whole new series of ways.

Seriously, when I read posts about pants-fitting, and the fitee in question is losing her mind because the scenario (given her proportions) is so challenging, I feel nothing but empathy. That sewist's developed upper legs or wide derriere or shelf-hips or sloped waist or thick calves are analagous to my boobs (which seem to pop off the front of my chest like alien creatures as soon as a woven fabric is involved) and my super short/high armscye.

People, this is painful and I don't know how it's going to end. I can simply say that I'll keep going...

So, what happens next?

Well, I just spent 45 minutes on the phone with Fabrications (best customer service ever, not joking) ordering 5 yards of silk crepe and rayon challis (both of which have the same amount of stretch as the burgundy fabric that is, so sadly, gone). That's enough to make 3 more Rosies. Theoretically, two will be muslins and one will be a beautifully-fitted, finished garment. But I'm prepared to accept that they may all be muslins. I have to wait for my fabric to arrive before I can make another of these - a week I suspect.

(Side Note: My sister is in the wedding party of a mega bridezilla who made her buy a dress on Etsy that is a) hideous and b) horrendously fitted. My sister's hysteria, bolstered by photos that show the truth of things, has inspired me to refit the dress in advance of the upcoming wedding. Point is, as soon as that dress, and a bit of extra fabric, arrive in the post, it's going to be all sewing for others, all the time - if with short turn-around.)

What I've Learned from Muslin 4:

• I had to lower the bust apex by another inch. Ahem. Let's not discuss this.

• I had to do my ever-present "small bust adjustment" above my "large bust adustment". That means that, given my full bust is 38" and my upper bust is 33.5", I get a lot of fabric pooling above the full bust to the neckline. I've had to take 0.5 inches off of each princess seam above the full bust. Don't know if this will be enough but it's a start.

• I had to adjust some seam lines - I forgot that darting the side front would shorten the armscye. Given that there's a kimono sleeve, I've just opted to shorten the back sleeve at the underarm. Of course, this might not be optimal, but we'll have to wait and see.

Potential Alterations that I won't be able to confirm till I make the next muslin (you can't do too much at one time or you can't keep everything straight):

• I also might have a big problem - but I'm not going to know until I make this round of revisions: I might need to pull out more fabric from the armscye in a dart that, currently, goes to the bust apex - effectively spanning 2 pieces. I don't know how I'll do this on the front piece in such a way that I can actually close the dart. This would be less concerning on a garment that doesn't already have a (conflicting) princess seam joining two pieces together.  

• I suspect I'm going to need to make the waist smaller again.

• I might need to make the peplum longer.

• And finally, those princess seams really are trickily positioned. I might have to realign them (closer together - by removing width from the front piece, Lord help me).

So you can see, I'm basically making my own top, with some nice bits of pattern paper from StyleArc. You can take comfort knowing that this will certainly be easier for anybody else than it has been for me.

I should disclose that I'm not looking at fitting books during this process. I find them confusing. I've come to realize that I need to make things and fit them on my body, as many times as it takes. Flat pattern alterations are meaningless to me if I can't see how they come about by draping the fabric over my own body. I'm pleased to say, though, that I've picked up a lot by reading when I'm not in the sewing fray: lowering the bust apex, for example. (Well, I'll disclose that I didn't look it up but I remembered how to cut the too-high apex out of the pattern piece (in a little box) and lower it to the desired height.)

If I choose to view this process as a weird experiment that takes a bunch of fabric, lots of time and the creative impulse, well, then I cannot lose. I promise I'll keep you posted.

Till then, I've got a knit to sew up.

Spring Sewing: Rosie Top - The Next Muslin

I don't know what made me think I'd only need to make one muslin of this Rosie top but, man, it is a production. By contrast, I'd rather muslin pants any day of the week...

On the plus side, it's a fascinating process. Really. My bodice proportion is SO renegade.

I'm am grateful to have just about enough of my burgundy fabric left to give it one more go - because so much of this fit is tied up in the beautiful crepe. Part of me is horrified that I may sacrifice it all to muslin but, really, this fabric is doing yeoman's work and we're in it together. Were I to use a new fabric, I'd practically have to start from scratch. Do not be misled, my next life plan is to find mega-drapey, top-weight woven (crepe - silk or otherwise) with 20-25% mechanical stretch (or lycra - I'll take lycra!). And then I'm buying it, shipping be damned.

But let's have a look at the insanity, yes?

Rosie Top modified as per dictates of muslin 2. This is the pattern for the next muslin (or wearable top?!)

Alterations as per the info provided by muslin 2:

• I added back all the width of the original pattern at the peplum hem (the pattern refers to it as "the skirt"). Mind you, I didn't add it all back at the waist.

• In fact, this time I had to take out an inch, over all, from the side seams at the waist. I've decided I want a fitted top, nay, I require a fitted top, so I'm going to insert a side zip at the waist. I suspect, if you are hourglass shaped and you desire a top that isn't shapeless in the waist (to allow you to get it over your bust), you're going to need to do a side zip or make this in a true knit (like ponte).

• I lengthened the back skirt to reflect the 2 inches I removed from the back waist. It was coming up too short.

• I lowered the bust apex by 2 inches. So much for "it's not cut high in the bust!". Note: I did dart at the armscye (between muslin 1 and muslin 2) so that raised the apex artificially - though not by 2 inches, I'm sure.

• The full bust was ridiculously tight. When I vertically slashed the muslin, to see what would happen, I discovered I need another 2.5 inches of extra width at the apex of my bust.

• This time, the princess seams were ridiculously wide - splayed to the outside of my breasts. I can see how someone else had this issue. If you have a small bust, chances are that all you need to do is make the front piece (top left of the photo) narrower. However, as I seem to have to add another 2.5 inches to the full bust (I know, it's insane) this makes things that much more tricky, given that I want that seam to go over the bust, or very close to it. My only recourse is to add width onto the side front piece (top centre of the photo). First I removed some volume I'd added to the front piece above the bust (unnecessary). Then I lengthened the front piece by 0.75 inch to account for the extra length required in light of the alterations of the side front piece.

• I realize that the new bust curve on the side front piece looks insane, I'd prefer to create it over 2 seams (front and side front), as is the usual technique, but that's not going to narrow the princess seams.* I mean, it's going to be an interesting exercise in easing, if nothing else. Thing is, the waist on this is high (not empire, but definitely at the "real" waist). Given that I've got a short waist and large tits, I don't have a lot of room to maneuver. The way this will work for me is in that it will be incredibly fitted under the bust (see that dip below full bust moving towards the waist).

• Updated to reflect further consideration: While I didn't narrow the front piece from the centre (see asterisk below), given that I'd already widened it by an inch (wherein it went from being a good width to too wide), I removed the extra inch and added it, where? Well onto that side front piece. So now it looks even more curvy insane than it does in the photo above. But the princess seam should sit where I want it to.

By the way, I have no idea of what the next muslin will reveal. I felt confident that I'd resolved the issues on the (last) garment but it was destined to become muslin 2. So, I take it, I've got to keep an open mind. What does it matter how long it takes me to fix this? If and when I do make a woven top that fits, I'll have that much more information at my access - which will only help me when next I decide to tackle a woven bodice.

In the meanwhile, that's why we have knits.

Thoughts?

* It just occurred to me that I could have narrowed the front piece at the centre (removing inch, for example) and then adding on to the front piece side seams on either side. That would have allowed me to put the extra space on either side of the princess seam. But that seems unnecessarily convoluted. Of course, it may have displaced the volume better and would make the sewing of that insane princess seam less complicated...

Spring Sewing: Rosie Top, The Muslin

I made a muslin of the Rosie Top and it's actually very interesting.

As it happens, I might have been just as well off making the original pattern in lieu of my very altered one. It would have been better in some ways (though worse in others).

What I altered in the muslin:

• I removed a 2-inch, horizontal wedge of fabric from the centre back.
• Narrowed the shoulders.
• Narrowed the waist circumference, over a variety of seams, by 6 inches.
• I decided to forgo the facing, in favour of self-made bias binding around the neck. I loathe facing.

What I need to do next time: 

• For starters, I have to replace a good 4 inches of the six I removed in the waist. That was a sound alteration, but I totally overdid it given that one's supposed to be able to put this on like a T shirt (and that waist seam was not going over the boobs!). Note: I'm willing to put in a side zip if it gives me a fitted look I prefer...
• The centre back alteration worked really well. I might need to refine it (once I see how everything else plays out) but I sense that's a good plan, in general. The bias binding also works very well in lieu of facing.
• Although the shoulder shortening is not unattractive, it does make the sleeves a bit shorter than I'd like. So I have reversed that alteration.
• Additionally, somehow I still have to add 2 inches to the full bust circumference so I added this at 1 inch over both sides of each princess seam.
• I also added a dart at the front armscye (on the side front piece, slanting towards the bust apex). I've discovered that this is de rigeur with woven bodices. In order to get the full bust to fit, I often need to add volume at the side bust. That's fine, but it over-impacts the armscye given that my armsyce is very high and short.

What I really appreciate about this top:

• My disbelief notwithstanding, it's a beautifully drafted pattern. The shoulders are not wide, even as the technical drawing makes it seem that they might be.
• It's super simple to construct. You can make and use bias binding practically as easily as cutting and sewing in the facing.
• The bust apex isn't drafted stupidly high (like for flat-chested teens).
• My crepe fabric is a perfect choice for this top - it has a good amount of mechanical stretch and a gorgeous drape. The colour is rich - although not one I often wear (burgundy). It sews beautifully and serges just as well.
• You can make practically the entire thing on your serger, with the exception of top stitching a few seams. 
• It's very neat on the inside, because it's simple.

I'm not insane. I deliberately decided to tackle this woven top very specifically. It has a back seam, to facilitate fit in the back waist. I used a drapey, naturally stretchy woven, not a thick, stiff fabric. I made a muslin (in the same fabric as the finished garment will be made in) to avoid fabric variables on the next attempt. I used a pattern with princess seams - which are relatively easy to alter to increase the full bust circumference. I used a pattern with a defined waist. Even if made to fit "loosely", the waist seam provides definition.

And, as a result, although I'm not sure that the next one will be perfect, I do hope that it's wearable.

This top is chicer than I thought it would be. It will look great with a suit or with jeans and it nicely covers the part of one's stomach that one might choose to downplay.

Today or tomorrow, I intend to finish the next version. Stay tuned for more...

Spring Sewing: Rosie Top and Lady Skater Dress (And Another Issy)

I've got an extra long weekend and I'm trying to make the most of it, sewing-wise.

Yesterday I put together another version of the Issy top (photo to follow - I can only do so many things at once and I'm overwhelmed by the tracing and cutting and marking and sewing etc.). Alas, it was a miserable process. The finished top is wearable, but has the wrong-side look of drunken mice at work.

I have to say, I will not be making the Issy again any time soon. This is my third one. The first is a massive hit, which is why I threw caution to the wind of my crap spatial reasoning to make the second (with alterations). The second was a failure for a bunch of reasons, not least of which was alteration-related. This time, I went back to the original pattern. In my coral rayon jersey, it fits in the neck perfectly and doesn't do what the leopard-print does (neckband falls backwards slightly over time). The good news is that the issue, I believe, is in the leopard-print fabric rather than in my construction. The bad news is that, nonetheless, I had to go through the same, hideous pain this time as I've experienced in the construction of each Issy top. My brain just doesn't understand what the fuck is going on. The instructions (stupidly basic to begin with) are useless cuz I trashed them with my iron. So the whole thing is like a nightmare of endless attempts and ripping out. Doesn't make me want to wear the finished garment but I hope that I'll get over it.

On the plus side, the coral fabric is truly delicious - soft, perfectly drapey and stretchy enough to hide the worst of it.

But moving on, I have plans to make 2 other garments this weekend:

StyleArc Rosie Top

and

Lady Skater by Kitschy Koo

It appears that practically no one's made the Rosie - last month's free pattern from StyleArc. Admittedly I wouldn't have bought it (given that I rarely wear woven tops). On the other hand, there's no one left who hasn't made the Lady Skater...

Thoughts About The Rosie Top:

This one is truly a wild card. I have NO idea of how to alter woven bodices to achieve the desired outcome. That didn't stop me from spending 2 hours altering the size 10 down to something in the neighbourhood of a size 4 ??? May I remind you that I don't make woven tops because I'm super small in the shoulders and far less small in the bust? Thing is, I did the math (ok, potentially incorrectly) and this would be a tent in its original format. Natch, I didn't make the bust any smaller!! But I've taken 6 inches out of the waist and an inch from the shoulders. It's a loose-fitting garment but 46" at the waist (for a size 10) is absurd.

Now, I'm not hopeful. It would be stupid to be hopeful given my lack of experience with wovens and the seemingly-incomprehensible sizing of the pattern. Mind you, gotta start somewhere. And the pattern was free!

I'm going to use a crepe with some stretch, recently gifted to me by S (my fitting friend). It's very light fabric in burgundy. We'll have to see how it goes but I've got enough to make a muslin and then another version - always the best plan of attack when you don't know what you're doing with fit.

I'll go into fitting in detail once I've made the Rosie, if it isn't an abject failure, but the main thing I've done is to remove a wedge of 2 inches from the centre back waist-length. I can do this because there's a centre back seam. Effectively I just took out a horizontal dart and closed it (adjusting the base of the bodice to maintain the lines). I haven't touched the length of the front bodice because I have to assume (as with all tops), I'll need more length there to compensate for the boobs. Mind you, the side seams are the same length, front and back, so one hopes (even if the proportions are off) that the alteration is sound.

Thoughts About The Lady Skater Dress

I scarcely know what I can say about this that hasn't been said already. OK, I'm game: The envelope drawing is a real deterrent to purchasing this pattern. I'm glad that so many others have shown that it's a lovely finished garment. Furthermore, it's a pdf download. I'm more willing than some to tape 22 pages (especially if it means I don't have to trace) but the lines were somewhat off, which really offended my sense of order. I mean, it's fixable with some attention to the grain, but really... On a side note, it appears that the newly-released Colette Patterns Moneta is pretty-well the same pattern. I'm intrigued to hear about how people feel one compares to the other.

I reviewed the unaltered Lady Skater pattern against my T shirt sloper and I had to make massive changes to the armscyes and sleeves. My sleeves and armscye are actually a size 1 (smallest) while the bust and waist remain a size 4. I had to change the angle of the shoulder seam dramatically - and to cut about an inch off the depth of the armscye and sleeve head. Happily, I knew this before cutting into my fabric. Slopers for the win (we hope).

Now, thing is, the dress requires about 2 yards of fabric for the size 4, 3/4 length sleeve version. I've got a 1.5 yards of stripes. It's going to take some serious layout skill to make this happen while pattern-matching striped fabric. Having said that, my version is really more of a size 1 than a size 4. And I'm willing to fuck with the volume and grainlines of the skirt as I have to.

Ridiculously, I don't have 2 yards of any T shirt fabric in the stash. The minute I buy it, it's gone and I cannot justify buying another piece of fabric till I've used at least 8 yards of the stash. Why? Cuz it's only economical to buy 6+ yards online (re: shipping) - which is where the best of the T shirting comes from. And I don't have space for that volume in the cupboard at this point.

At any rate, please tell me what you think of these pattern choices. Do you like them? Have you made them? Did you find either completely nutty size-wise? Let's talk!