Showing posts with label Patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Patterns. Show all posts

Friday, May 13, 2016

Can You See A Pattern Here?

The benefits of pattern-surfing can tell the story of one's current sense of style.

Theoretically, I could make any of these purportedly simple projects using fabric I already own:

Named Kielo Wrap Dress
I'd definitely shorten this above the knee, and make it in a knit.

Papercut Patterns Bowline Sweater
Sure, I've got a lot of tops that already work this asymmetrical angle (ha!) but who can't use another?

StyleArc Jessica Dress
This one is cute but runs the risk of being bulky at the twist and I don't know that it would be the most flattering .

StyleArc Pamela Dress
Interestingly, I own a rayon that would probably work well with the Pamela Dress (it calls for a stretch woven).

Special mention goes to the Toni Dress, for which I have a decided soft-spot, despite the fact that this dress is very "of a style" (and that style's name is science-fiction hippie). The likelihood that this would be VERY difficult to fit on me is high. I mean, if the shoulders are drafted wide or long, I'd pretty well have to start from scratch. And that collar could go all kinds of wrong...:

StyleArc Toni Dress
Of course, I also have a bunch of appropriate patterns in my stash which, according to Felicia, I might be using in lieu of online shopping. While I completely agree with her in her latest (really interesting) post, that window shopping catalyzes desire, not gratitude, I find it hard to begrudge the activity when it comes to pdf patterns. I mean, yes, this activity may have derailed me from using patterns that I already own, but it's also sparked my current creativity and it allows me to connect with things anew. I'm not necessarily in the same mood today as I was six months ago when I bought my last batch of patterns. I don't have to pay (or use resources) to ship these and they take up veritably no space (unless I use them). Not to mention that it allows me to support independent creative business owners. (Update: Apparently, the Pamela Dress isn't available in pdf...)

So these are some things I'm thinking of making up. Any preferences?

Monday, August 9, 2010

Faith-Based Education

There's just no getting around it. Sewing is an iterative experience. It's about the journey (ugh). It takes patience. And the yield for patience? I regret to inform you that it's recognizing the need for more patience still.

See, the universe doesn't care if you've spent 4 days carefully considering the geometrical implications of your pattern in your bid to alter it successfully. The sewing goddess does not concern herself with your fragile ego - your near paralysis at the thought that what you've been striving for, lo, 3 painstaking versions over, may never come to be.

Sewing, like so many things in this wonderful world, is an act of faith.

To paraphrase Kenneth King (big shot teacher), if you don't wreck thousands of yards of fabric, you're not really learning to sew. That makes me feel good and terrible, all at the same time. I mean, hello, I'm well on my way to meeting that goal :-). And yet, really, who has that much fortitude?

I spent the last week altering my gather dress in the following key ways:
  • Redrafted the skirt in an ML (rather than the too-big, Large), added 1 inch to the hem.
  • Grafted it onto my still Large bodice pattern.
  • Adjusted the Large bodice with a 1 inch FBA (that was incredibly challenging given a) I didn't know what I was doing with such a weird pattern i.e. where does one cut that sleeve off exactly? and b) I had to figure out where the apex was, then dart it at bust, then move the bust dart to the waist, then slide the waist dart out the side seam (of which there isn't one?!)
To keep the same proportions, while hacking at the pattern, was quite an undertaking, she says with outrageous understatement.

Then this weekend, I cut some muslin (the real, woven cotton kind - without stretch), and got to work. Ten hours - and one freakin' invisible zipper later - I tried it on to learn that:
  • The arm holes are so tight I had to open them and cut half an inch off of each immediately.
  • The bust is still way too small. Admittedly, I'm kind of an idiot - I couldn't figure out how much of an FBA to do on this pattern. Last 2 times I've increased the bust dimension, I've completely overdone it. This time, on a hunch, I was modest and it wasn't enough.
  • I think I need 0.5 inches onto the back seam (or should I do it on the fold?!), just to give everything a bit more room. Cotton has no fucking give.
Seems I traded one batch of problems for another.

When I get over the horrendous disappointment, the feelings of inadequacy, I suppose I'll redraft and try again. Gotta say, though, I loathe muslin (the fabric and the concept). I suppose I should be grateful I didn't waste a ton of time making something - and beautifully finishing seams - that was not going to fit. But I do think next time I'm going to throw some real fabric at this. I have some woven synthetic crepe that has a beautiful hand, drapes nicely and has a modicum of give. (It was on sale for 5 bucks a yard.)

I don't know if, every time I try a muslin, the fit fails miserably because I'm only doing them on the things I have true fit concerns about or because the unseen powers feel my ambivalence. I'm a pragmatist and I'm extremely goal-oriented. I do believe a garment shouldn't need 6 cycles of construction - wrecking fabric (albeit hideous fabric), and eating time as I go.

I know I'm learning a lot with every experience, but how do I find a way to be ok with this non-starting? Somehow, I truly believe that my (extreme) effort should yield results rather than my talent, knowledge and experience. Crazy, I realize.

Anyone, got some feedback for me? Maybe you sew. Maybe you do something else that's really hard? Do share your thoughts.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Without A Trace (Cutting Edge)

A while ago, a few posts about pattern cutting vs. pattern tracing were making the rounds on the blogs.

The subject drew an impassioned response from a very engaged craft-force. Even I, a new sewist who was even newer then, had a strong perspective, that being: hell can freeze over I'm not freakin' tracing my patterns. That's what the lines and scissors are for!

Well, friends, in eat make my shirt mode, I am here to tell you that I have begun to trace patterns. Like all of them.

Why? (you may ask...)

Well, I wrecked a pattern.

It was just one - it was after extensive bust alterations - but that was enough. Hours of my life were gone with no recourse. I mean, my recourse is to re-purchase the pattern. Like I'm going to do that before it goes on sale again.

Yes, I realize making massive changes (when one doesn't know what she's doing) on a flimsy piece of tissue is perhaps ill-advised. But if it had worked, I can assure you we wouldn't be having this conversation. I mean diatribe.

Moreover, now that I'm working on the Built By Wendy Dresses book, the forced habit is coming in handy. You have to trace those base patterns (slopers) and their numerous, self-chosen seam allowances, or you can't remake them in their variations.

I don't trace because it is the eco-conscious, archive-friendly, decent thing to do. I do it because the alternative is, potentially, a deal breaker.

Call me principled.