Monday, April 7, 2014

Finished Object: The Svalbard Cardigan

You can tell how ambivalent I am about everything these days because I finished this thing 2 weeks ago, and I haven't bothered to take pics till now.

Here's the Svalbard cardigan:


No two ways about it, this thing does not photograph well. If you want a sweater to look cute in a photo, make sure it has waist shaping. Or wear it (which was never gonna happen what with how I look today.)

See how sweetly the ribbing mitres at the curve? That's some nice drafting...
You can see a bit more of the structure in the flat shots...
And here's that cute heart detail on the back yoke... I think you would agree, the error that cost me hours (while not gone) is not noticeable.
In the final analysis, I think this looks best on Andrea - but she swears it looks terrific on me.

Points of Interest
  • I could not have altered this to fit me any better. The shape is what it is - which is to say not hourglass. I made this as small in the shoulders and arms as I could (smallest size knit on yarn of smaller gauge than called for) and that's why it's not a total freakin' tent.
  • As it happens, though you can go crazy modifying the pattern any way you want: unadjusted, the sleeve width is dependent on the yoke size. The reason most people find the sleeves too large is because said sleeves are wide relative to the shoulder-width. Note: Altering the sleeves at the pick up row involves some tricky stitch pattern modification. I wouldn't do it. Since the whole garment seems to fit most people too large, I'd fix it at the get go by making a smaller size overall.
  • Know the properties of your yarn. I've knitted with Chickadee before so I know that it grows a lot when you wet block it, but it rebounds. With this pattern, you do not want to work with a yarn that doesn't recover well. In fact, the sponginess of my yarn will either work to give this garment a long life of shape-constancy, or it may work against it. There's a point to be made that a very stable yarn would be good. Note: There will be impacts of this choice, if you go with a smaller size.
  • I've said it before and I'll say it again: Unless you have a wide shoulders, a broad back and/or thick upper arms, you probably want to make the smallest size. Not a smaller size, the smallest. Or, if you can't bring yourself to do that, knit least 2 sizes smaller than you would normally.
  • Once you get past the underarm gussets, the rest of the pattern is very simple, if not totally quick. Mind you, getting to the underarm is fucking tricky. I don't know that the end-result warrants the effort, honestly, though I'm glad I undertook this challenge. It was a very interesting knit.
  • If you are short, squat, square, busty or very broad, chances are this sweater will not be the most flattering shape on you. Hey - I fall into one of those categories and I made this garment, nonetheless... And I like it, even if it's not going to be my go-to garment. It's chic with skinnies and boots.
So - what do you think? Would you make this? Would you wear it? Let's talk!

20 comments:

  1. I think it looks terrific on your and it would be a sin if you don't wear it, especially after all the effort that went into it. I so want to make this for myself, and in the exact same colour you made yours. My queue is a mile long so it will have to wait.

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    1. OK - I've worn it twice! Which is more than I can say for some of my sweaters :-)

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  2. It looks very pretty! It's definitely not one of my preferred shapes but I'd like to see it on you. Maybe I'd change my mind.

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    1. Thanks Alexandra! Not my preferred shape either but it does have its uses - especially with the narrow bottoms.

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  3. It looks beautifully finished, professionally executed, and I'm guessing it will get a fair bit of wear. I'd never make it after reading all the trouble you had with it, but mainly because it's not a shape or style I'd usually choose for myself (short and short-waisted, so I'm disqualified from it. . . ).

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    1. Oh thank you Frances! Such a lovely comment. I do hope it will see wear. One way or another it will - if I don't end up putting it to use, it will certainly find a good home.

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  4. It DOES look terrific on you! Please don't do anything crazy like give it away!

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  5. I trust Gail and Andrea - keep it, wear it, and be fabulous in it! Sometimes it's nice to try some different shapes out.

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    1. It is good to be different on occasion. Keeps life interesting...

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  6. I think the sweater looks great, even lying flat. Beautifully made and the colour is gorgeous.

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  7. Ha! What makes you think I'd do anything so rash?? :-)

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  8. It looks lovely and structured yet soft. I wouldn't wear as it's not my style but it does make me crave a nice dark grey! Well done!

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    1. I hear you. And it's interesting that you see it as grey - it's a blue with grey in it (but most definitely blue). Thanks J!

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  9. i would wear a sweater like that all the time! looks great from your pics.

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    1. Thanks Lisa - I think it would look great on you.

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  10. Hmm, it is a beautiful sweater and looks to be very professionally finished and beautifully executed. I can see how it is not your preferred shape, but I also see how it could be very useful as a layering piece and see how it would work well with some of my newer skinny bottoms, were I to make one. I do think that a sweater such as this one needs to be very well-fitting at the shoulders and bust, at least the upper bust to be flattering to the wearer, and agree that the versions that are too bulky in that area are not flattering unless one is lanky and long. I accept that this could be my eye, but on my figure at least, which although long through the torso, is busty (to a lesser degree than you) and small through the shoulders and upper chest, (at least for my height), excess fabric at the shoulders and bust, for the most part, is not flattering. There seem to be exceptions to every rule, but I would never make this sweater with 8" of positive ease. Just me.

    Anyway, I think it would look good on you, and I know you must pull it off with panache. There is room for pieces that are not perhaps the "best" shape depending on how they are used with other pieces, and although I've just caught up with the difficulties of knitting this piece, I think it would prove to be a workhorse in the long run.

    Who, knows, I may be tempted.

    I'm definitely intrigued by your reviews of chickadee, a yarn of not knit with but am looking at seriously at the moment.

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    1. If you look at all of the versions on Ravelry, it's amazing that almost everyone is wearing this thing sizes too large. I mean, who am I to suggest that someone's wearing something oversized "too large", but I think you know what I mean. 8 inches of positive ease is insane in any universe - especially 8 inches of HAND knit. This will look excellent with slender bottoms so you should consider adding it to your wardrobe :-) My latest order of Quince just arrived (3 weeks later - ah, shipping to Canada...) and all of the yarn is so awesome. I don't think there's a bad colour or a bad yarn weight. It's all fantastic. Note: I've only tried their worsted, multi-plied yarns. The woolens might be quite different. I would like to try those next.

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  11. Gail and Andrea know their stuff so I'm convinced you look fabulous in this. Plus it's a great colour and beautifully knitted so I'm calling it a success!

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    1. Why thank you E! They are quite sincere that it looks great, so I've decided to believe them.

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