Sugar Coated

Despite my seemingly endless online purchases of late - as Xmas gifts (I work on the premise of 1 gift for you, one gift for me) etc., there are two things I needed to buy this season: boots (check) and a new winter coat.

My go-to winter coat has (so sadly, since I continue to love it) really seen its last wear. It's a first-edition Soia & Kyo, back when they did strange shapes and closures. Mine is made in a dense, waffle-weave wool in winter white (ha!) with beautiful drape and a funnel meets shawl neck. The colour goes so well with my pale, blond, green-eyed complexion. This coat is also fairly light, in the scheme of winter wear. The older I get (yeah, this is one of those sentences), the less inclined I am to reach for one of my stylin' heavy coats. Who has the interest to carry 20 extra pounds on a 45 minute walk?

Thing is, and bear with me here as I milk this story for as long as possible, I didn't think I was going to find both of my "need" items within the same 24 hours, especially as I'm not in-store-shopping this year and a coat is an investment I feel warrants buying only after trying.

My friend, Sandra, and I went to Terroni on Queen West for dinner last night. Usually I only eat at Terroni for lunch (I feel it's a better meal), but we gave it a go and we both think this ristorante institution has upped its game lately. Interesting side note: This is the restaurant where Scott and I dined on our second date in 1995?! Twenty years after opening, this place is always fantastically busy. After 7pm you'll wait in line for an hour. Last night was no exception, though we avoided this by arriving at 6:55. We sat next to a mum and her incredibly cute, 2-month old baby named Astrid. Other side note: I'm always amazed by how so many people bring their kids out for "late" dinner to incredibly noisy places. As we were leaving we saw a young boy (5ish) and his parents waiting at the back of the queue. I can't imagine that would have been a fun time for any of those peeps. Am I totally boring/old school and the only person who wouldn't even consider doing this? I mean, I won't even wait in line without a kid, much less with one. Anyway, hipster kids have mettle, apparently.

Sandra and I chose to walk to the restaurant, which gave us an opportunity to window shop along much of the length of Queen Street, going west. What with my current lack of fortitude for crowds, it was not my intention to stop in anywhere.

We stopped in everywhere.

On the plus side, everyone I know got an extra present. On the other plus side, I bought the most INCREDIBLE winter coat. (If only global warming weren't leaving us with plus zero rainy days most of the time, but that's another discussion.)

OK, here's the story: A gorgeous boutique, named V, opened 3 weeks ago and is the latest brainchild of Kaelan Sullivan (she of 69 Vintage). Kaelan is one of those people you really have to meet to believe. Seriously, for a brief moment I wanted to get all flexible with my sexual orientation and leave my regular life behind. (Note: I have no idea of her sexual orientation - I'm speaking only for myself!)

At any rate, we walked into this store, largely populated by elegant fur and old military wear, and I had to try on. I had no intention of buying a fur coat, I swear. But the first on I put on (winter white, hip-length mink and fox) looked so fucking awesome on me (really, like Candice Bergen in 1977) that I knew it was gonna be a hard walk. This fur most definitely would have cost thousands of dollars in its day. Alas, it was not inexpensive in its current incarnation.

A few facts:

• Most, if not all of the fur at V, is vintage dead stock from the Hudson Bay Company furrier cold storage. That means its been unworn and living in perfect conditions for upwards of 50 years. You could find any of these coats at Holt Renfrew (but for their styles, reminiscent of their eras), that's the kind of perfect shape they're in.

• The shop-collection is beautifully curated. Lady-like offerings from the 50s are interspersed with crazy ewok bombers from the 80s. And dresses and muffs and military boots.

• My coat is of a transitional era - the late 70s (by my own estimation). It heralds the "bigness" of the coming decade and it's incredibly practical i.e. reversible! The alternate side is made of taupe fabric and the fox collar (that runs down the entire length of the coat) is beautifully visible from both sides. This was the style for a working woman, albeit a rich one.

• It weighs approximately 4 oz. OK, I don't know how much it really weighs but I don't know that I've ever felt a coat this light, much less one that wears like a portable furnace.

• Sandra and I had a debate about this, but I do not think this is a coat for a younger woman. Sandra said that age is not a factor in wearing beautiful clothing, one's personal style is the defining element. OK, her argument sounds better than mine, so I'll say that I could not have worn this when I was younger. It's VERY luxe.

Back to the bottom line... My aim was to bargain, respectfully - this is one of my special life skills - but it didn't quite go as planned. See, the coat was mismarked (having just come back from a photo shoot). It was wearing the tag of its neighbour (a totally different animal, literally), a fact that would most likely have gone unnoticed if no one had started asking questions. I should have realized it. My coat was of a much higher quality than the price tag would have led me to believe. But, given that I was in a vintage boutique, I thought I was getting lucky.

The coat I wanted was actually hundreds of dollars more than the (wrong) tag had led me to believe. And cost on that original tag was high enough to have me angling for a discount. Egad.

Kristin of an earlier era would have left that coat behind. She had less money, sure, but more to the point, she didn't understand the most valuable of life lessons: When the shopping goddess throws you a fucking gorgeous, totally practical, incredibly flattering, completely unique, REVERSIBLE freakin' vintage fur coat that weighs no more than a cloud, you buy it.

In the words of my mother: Pay a lot for quality, cry once. Buy cheap, cry forever.

Last time I applied this principle, I got the most gorgeous wood floor anybody's ever seen and I only ever consider the price in terms of how smart I was to say fuck it, we're buying this.

My negotiation skills got me the coat for the same amount as shown on the original tag, still at the very, very, very upper limit of my comfort level, but far better than the coat's actual price which would truly have put it out of the running. I do have to prioritize many purchases in my life (not that my current purchasing habits would lead you to believe this), especially at this time of the year.

I will only show a photo of this coat on me - it's nothing on the hanger, IMO. When worn by me, however, I'm some sassy, second-wave feminist executive with a Swedish husband who looks like a Ken doll and a ski chalet at Whistler. It's quite a life, let me tell you. :-)

The Tailored Suit: Accessories

It's never too soon to start accessorizing a suit that doesn't exist. (Is this analogous to buying adorable baby clothes while pregnant?)

I couldn't stop myself from buying this brooch on Etsy:

It may not work at all, but it called to me - and it was not expensive.

Oh, and I'm so on the fence with the plastic buttons. Though they look great, they're plastic!? Y'all have made me aware of the folly of spending zillions of hours on a project, only to cap it with plastic buttons. So...

I've called Pat of Pat's Custom Buttons and Belts (no website, but see this awesome Gertie post on the topic, which Gail so generously reminded me about) and requested a catalog. I fully intend to send her my fabric fashion scraps (at least 2" x 2" for 1" buttons) for gorgeous fabric-covered buttons. Stay tuned. (And give feedback!)

Just Like Magic

I've been obsessed by the vintage magic blouse since I saw Casey's post and read a comment advising that there is a similar version to be found online.

So today I made it. Not as fast or intuitive as I thought it would be, but it wasn't hard to do:

I used the cotton jersey I bought to make a t shirt for the Spring Basics Palette. Not a t shirt, exactly, but it counts as part of the palette, as far as I'm concerned.

It looks much richer than I thought it would in this fabric. The drape is lovely and the little flower appliques are from NYC. I bought them when I was notions shopping with Mardel last year.

The back is weird:

That shawl shoulder thing is what gives the front its elegant lines, but I'm not sure about the back view. On me, it hangs better cuz I'm not covered in fabric for skin.

The thing is held together with three little snaps. You could easily use a pin or just let it hang open like a cardigan.


I didn't use my serger because I wanted a more vintage effect. I used applique scissors to trim the fabric close to the stitching and it worked fine. However, I was not looking for a fussy top with lots of slip stitching (that's what it calls for). I used my machine to top stitch everything. That means I can easily throw this in the washer and dryer on delicate.

Elegant Problem

Does the vintage excitement here never end??

As it happens, a little while ago, I read Casey's post on some family-heirloom vintage patterns she recently received. This was one of the many gems:

Simplicity 4538, image courtesy of Casey's Elegant Musings

I was immediately enthralled. How chic, how body con, how (um) boxy in the construction. Those mid-century sewists really had it going on!

I searched online. I didn't find it. I even spoke with friends about this fascinating pattern I came across that's basically a square with holes for your head and arms. Just 2 seams! It went over well...

To compound the matter, Casey actually posted a photo of the finished garment today, and I almost climbed through the computer screen to snatch it from her then and there. (That sounds violent, I realize. I mean it only in the most pacific way.)

Oh, how I LOVE it!

It looks old fashioned, but not costume-y. It's got a great line. As a person of narrowish shoulders, it's just the kind of line that flatters me.

Fortunately, one of the commenters on Casey's latest post included a link to a similar vintage pattern: the Vintage Magic Blouse. I decided to spring for the pdf ($3.99 USD) and a minute later I had a new item for the metaphoric Sew List. Note that the pdf is just 2 pages of instruction. It doesn't include a bunch of 8.5x11 pages to tape together. It just tells you how to make the top, which includes some tubular knit having 54"circumference. (Note: Tubular knit is simply a width of fabric that's attached in a tube. That means it doesn't have any side seams. It's like a big cowl, if that makes any sense. Or a tube that a knitter would knit in the round.)

OK, I thought. I can get with this. I called a few of my usual stores in the garment district to ask about the availability of fabric that fits that description. Apparently, there's no challenge finding tube knits in that size range, but they're all variations on cotton aka t shirt knit aka not chic for a vintage garment!

Finally I asked the guy at King Textiles why I couldn't find myself a nice cashmere or merino. (I've noticed, in the past, the dearth of fine textiles in tube format.) And here's what he told me: You can't find tube fabric in luxe knits in Canada because, by and large, Canada doesn't mill fabric. It imports fabric.

Can you believe that cashmere tube knit is mega expensive to import and the demand just isn't that high? Honestly, the worst thing about living in Canada is trying to get stuff. You'd think we were in Australia. (Note to Australians: No offense! You're just kind of far away, and we're right here! All 12 of us.)

So, now my immediate life goal is to source some luxurious fabric having the kind of drape that will lend itself to constructing the Magic Blouse.

Please help.

If you live in Europe or if you know of some Euro based online vendor - or even an US one that sells tube knit in high-end textiles - pls. advise. I'd love to know how to source this stuff.

The more I sew, the more I learn that I am only limited by the textiles available to me. And, being in the middle of a distribution wasteland, I have to expand my horizons.

True Blue

OK, peeps, this is yet another post which capitalizes on everything blue - for starters a great sale that Ms. Denise of Blue Gardenia is hosting - but only from Jan. 15 - 17. If you are even thinking about buying a vintage pattern in the next few months, don't be crazy. Buy it then and save a lot! (Note: you do have to buy 3 patterns to get the discount but, trust me, it will take about 4 minutes to find the perfect 3. Her inventory is extensive!) I've got my eye on a slip pattern from the 70s- like I need another?! - and a 50s dress that happens to be petite (and it has a 37.5" bust). Um, that's just like me!

But let's focus on today's slip: the Blue Ruby:

Very Elizabeth Taylor, no?

You can just vaguely see the asymmetry in the lace on either side of the centre bust. Do you see how one side (right as you look at it) has embroidered leaves and the other side has star-shaped flowers?

I'd have modeled this on the dress form but its shoulders are too wide. I can get it over my head and boobs (just), but I've already damaged the silk (ugh) by trying to get it to conform to the shape of an inanimate form.

At any rate, here's what I can tell you about this version:

• The lace cost a lot of money. Probably too much.
• And I don't love it. It's too mesh-y, which means a) it's effectively weak and b) very starkly shows a bra underneath it. And you know I'm not wearing this without a bra.
  
• The pattern, asymmetry is almost indiscernible, however.
• I've decided that I'll only sew with denser lace in the future.
• Oh, apropos of stitching down the lace seams: this time I did press both seam allowances to one side before top stitching at 1/8". The lace was too transparent to do it differently. And this didn't add any bulk.
  
• The bra straps were actually pre-made. I got them from Bra-Makers Supply last year and what good fortune. I hate assembling hoops and sliders. Hurts my brain. Also, these straps are 1/2 inch, not 5/8 inch wide - which makes the slip look more delicate. I mean, they're not holding up any weight to speak of so that width is just fine. That the straps are black is actually handy. Since I'll likely wear the slip with a black bra underneath, I'd prefer not to have 2 diff shades of straps to contend with.
  
• The silk skirt is beautiful and fits perfectly. Alas, the handkerchief hem didn't go so well. It looks great from the right side (see photo above), but the inside looks a bit gerbil-sewn.
• Once again, I top stitched (under stitched) the bodice seam allowance to the slip. But this time I didn't first serge that seam. It was too narrow.
• Here's something I didn't mention the last time, but it's germane: Because I increased the length of the bodice, the scalloped lace is now too high under my arm pit. I'm going to have to shape the pieces that abut under the arm so that they don't do this again. Not exactly sure how I'm going to accomplish this.

All this being said, I think it's a pretty good second effort. I'm glad I didn't use cheap materials. You can really feel the luxury of these fabrics.

I really do think that, for a woman of ample bust, the Ruby Slip gather bodice will be easier to fit. Silk charmeuse has a lot of natural give and I have a intuition that an underbust gather will "hug" the breasts (depending on their shape, and the gathers, natch). Silk is also stronger around the upper back and over the chest. Finally, it's easier to work a garment in one fabric, than in 2 disparate fabrics which meet a stress-bearing join. A decorative edge of lace is pretty, but not structurally integral.

As always, I welcome comments. Which of the 2 slips do you prefer? The shorter pink one? Or this one? I only wish I could present them in the same way for better comparison...

Swift Thrift

I'm calling this my "Fly the Friendly Skies" scarf. I found it at a delightful new vintage shop - what's with me these days, I cannot remember the name of anything?! - but it's on the north side of College St. between Euclid and Manning. It was 5 bucks! (It's totally poly, but still the drape is lovely and the design is so me.) I also bought a terrific, granny-chic porcelain cake stand (I've been looking for the right cake stand forevah!). It was $25.00.

Lost and Found

Leave it to me to turn one of the busiest weekends in the summer into an estate sale extravaganza. Sadly, an elderly woman up the street recently died. I discovered, while walking up the block to go to the butcher, that her daughter is selling many of her vintage treasures on this, perhaps the most beautiful day of the year so far.

Is this coffee set not the most beautiful thing EVER??:

Here's a shot of the full set of 6 - doesn't show it to its best advantage, but it captures the whole haul...

I've never owned a coffee set till now because, I've never before found one that thrills... This is in mint condition and I got it for (don't gasp) $3.00. Yes, three dollars. I seriously considered offering the seller much more money for it, but she seemed very grief-stricken and old-school Italian. I didn't want to somehow offend her...

And then there are these:


I got a full set of 6 but I just photographed these 4...

I'd love to know what these shot glasses are called (or anything about them). The metalized rims have been well-worn (to show the most beautiful patina). They'd be perfect with an ice cube and some Aperol, for example (something I intend to try in 10 minutes...). These were $4.00.

I told the seller we would be sure to toast her mother with these gorgeous glasses, whereupon (sadly) she started to cry. So, here's to a woman who had beautiful taste in china and glassware - one whom, I'm sure, enjoyed many beautiful events with these items and her family and friends. And here's to the joy they'll bring with every use.

Inflation

Couture Allure does a great regular segment on vintage clothing, priced for today - in light of inflation.

For example, these lovely dresses - which sold for $20.00 (left) and $15.00 (right) in 1961, would sell for $144.00 and $108.00 in today's dollar.

I imagine they are beautifully constructed (though what do I know, the photo doesn't clarify that) and, if I were to find them in Holt Renfrew new, I'd be paying 4 or 5 times that amount.

Nonetheless, it's fascinating to realize that $15.00 wasn't a cheap sum for clothing back then.

What do you think?

Springtime on a Dress

Thanks to Erin at A Dress A Day, I have had the pleasure of imagining myself walking the sun-dappled streets of Rome (on my way to an inexplicably delicious meal including copious amounts of affordable, yet superior, red wine) in this gorgeous vintage number, available here:

In addition to being crepe, appliqued and navy - 3 of my fave attributes! - it's also a size large, which is rare (as we know) with the vintage finds.

If the measurements accord, then snap it up. It's a beautiful piece of living history.

Teaser

What better way to ring in the new year than with a dress so neon that it is sure to get you over that hangover? I mean, it is veritably the colour of Tang circa 1962!



Of course, the outfit post will follow, but I couldn't resist showing you a little preview...

PS: Here, as on Cherie's website, the oufit looks red/pink. But in real life, it is definitely orange. Fortunately, I'm one of the 8 people in the world who actually thinks orange flatters her and who wears it, in all hues, rather regularly. Let's just say I'm going to get a lot of comments on this one :-)

In Which K Pretends She's One of the Avengers

Check out my new dress, courtesy of Shrimpton Couture:

(It will be posted today and, being in the same general area as the shipping location, hopefully I'll receive it quickly.)

Gotta say, it's a pleasure to shop on such a beautiful website - and with such pleasant client service.

I really hope this fits because I'm so psyched to wear it with black tights and boots. Please stay tuned...

Atomic Age

I had an inspired shopping experience last weekend (thank you Lawrence) at Atomic on Queen Street West. A curator's dream, this shop full of excellently preserved, cheerful, mid-century modern and pop art pieces was a delight!

In addition to a fantastic selection of housewares (mint-condition, 1960s Swedish plastic carafes, anyone?), there's a beautiful, edited assortment of modernist Norwegian sterling silver jewelry and a capsule vintage clothing collection, mainly from the late 60s and early 70s.

I bought a phenomenal ring that looks strangely like a crown to me (pics to follow).

I also got this top:




Not that I'm any expert, but I suspect this piece is from the 1970s, masquerading as a piece from the 1940s. The fabric and stitching seem more modern than the design. (And the cross-over design has such beautiful drape, it's a joy to wear.)

Whatcha think?

Strawberry Fields Forever

OK, so today it appears I could not take a good picture to save my life. Honestly, 60 photos turned into 5 usable shots - and they're all quite marginal (let's be blunt).

Feeling hideous is no fun but then neither is torrid hormonal flux and, when it rains peeps, it pours.

As it's going to be a while before I get in another shoot, and as I do think this dress - the one I got with Yulanda on our staycation excursion - is adorable (pron. with French accent, for extra flair), I'm posting these nonetheless:




I know the hem of the inner collar is riding up in pic #2 but I couldn't figure out how to fix it (more on my ignorance of Photoshop to come in the near future...) Oh, and while I'm bitching, seriously what is going on with my hair?? I'm having a Beatles at Shea Stadium moment. How regrettable that look has seen its day... (Well, maybe moptop loving WendyB can appreciate it :-))

Fascinating Facts, Courtesy of HQ Galerie + Boutique

As I've mentioned at some length, the HQ shopping experience in Montreal recently was truly enjoyable. Regrettably, I wasn't able to meet Angie or Tyson, but Judy and Amanda were excellent ambassadors and the shop was just delish.

Cut to update: Here are a few things I've learned from Angie and the HQ blog over the past few days...

1. My shell necklace has this exciting tale to recommend it:

To give you a bit of the provenance of the necklace, it is in fact vintage, dead-stock to be precise (ie. never worn). But to me the charm in this piece comes from the amazing place I found it. The location is of course a secret, but the elderly gentleman who owns the store speaks very little english, and I speak very little french, (yet) we manage to get along wonderfully somehow and he pulls special things out of his back storage for me. This lovely necklace was one of those things. I'm estimating it's from the late 70's.

Don't you love this??

2. That painted T I bought is by a small line called Urban Pigeon. You can see some great photos of their handiwork, and learn more about their handpainted prints here.

3. And, finally, while we're on the topic of textiles, yesterday's HQ post may be of great interest to you crafty bloggers out there. Spoonflower is this company that will print you up any fabric you design with no minimum. Gotta love this digital age, huh? I mean, Angie talks this up so well that I want to start designing textiles!

Bumping Lovelies

You know how, when you meet someone you're destined to um, (how to be demure in case the parents are reading), spend the night with on a whim? You never can say if the chemistry will translate from, for example, dinner table to wherever you decide to take it. But there's that tingling, anticipatory timeframe, when all is possible (mindblowing orgasms, living together in Paris, marriage, children - not that the last item is particularly sexy, in truth)...

Luckily, as I've been monogamous for lo these many years, this encounter has a shopping analogue. And I have experienced it, most recently (and quite profoundly, I'm happy to tell) with B - my great friend. We are so joyful together in shopping, it's ridiculous.

By way of history, we met when our children were very young (my one and her six!) and B was instrumental in guiding me through early parenting with a gentle, mellow perspective no one would accuse me of exhibiting naturally. I am not an earthy nurturer. Motherhood - as I came to it - filled me with a kind of anxiety I wouldn't wish on anyone. Of course, there is a complex story that goes along with this pronouncement, but I will spare you the details.) However, in watching B - as she more-or-less calmly directed children of all ages - I began the slow process of finding my own way. The painfully slow process. Of course, time is a great teacher too.

Which is how I managed to have that sleepover birthday party in April without the assistance of street drugs. Really.

But enough of the serious stuff - here's one more outfit to show off:

(PS - I got this skirt at the vintage shop across the street from Refinery. Uncharacteristically, I cannot remember its name, but I will find out and let y'all know. It's the same late-60s polyester-plus as the plaid one I got a couple of weeks ago at Apt. 909! And, it too, is lined with shorts.)

As I'm Not Getting Any Younger

I'd better work this look now. Like tonight.

(In skin tight, plastic-y leggings, shadow is your friend...)

Maybe If I Dress Like This...

Someone will take me out for a special birthday dinner...

Dilemma of the Modern Professional

And if I can tear myself from admiring those, soft-as-butter mesmerising chausseurs, maybe I'll actually make it to work for that 9:00 a.m. briefing...

OK, You Know A Shoe Is Good...

When you are compelled to bend down, a la Rumi from Fashion Toast, and pet it:

It's "OMG, I Love these Shoes" Theme Week

Ed. Note: How strange and fitting that I wrote this week of posts about a pair of new YSL shoes that blow my mind. M. St. Laurent: Thanks for your gorgeous canon of work! Rest easy in that Rive Gauche in the sky...

So...

Welcome to K does the same pair of shoes in 83 (or so) gratuitous poses. (But thankfully - or painfully, depending on how much you like this idea - it'll all be spread out over the course of the week.)

First, meet our star, the shoes:

In case you're not looking at the goldy, special inside: they are YSL. Vintage. Taupe suede - including the heel. Which is 3 inches and stacked. But like no other stacked heel I've ever seen. I got them at Apt. 909. They cost $80.00. Yes, I know, a fortune for someone else's antique footwear, but they are scarcely worn and they're YSL, man.

Then meet the shoes on the feet attached to the girl:

Do they not scream, "I'm sorry, I'd love to chat more but the car's out front and I do need to get to the opening before insert name of preferred NY philanthropist socialite here starts serving dinner. My boyfriend (subtext: filthy rich, adventuresome, well-dressed and even more well-endowed) will been so worried about me by now."?

Don't you want to see them paired with everything from shorts to tight skirts to short skirts to latex leggings and lady shifts? Good. It's settled then. Meet me back here tomorrow for the next installment.

Love, Tastefully Shod in Toronto* xo

(*Doesn't that sound kinda dirty?)