My Lingerie Wardrobe: The Fashion Sets

Women cannot live on lingerie basics alone, which is why I'm always seeking out gorgeous, "special" sets. (Note: Special sets are most def in regular rotation - they're just more sassy than the basic ones.) This category used to make up the bulk of my wardrobe but, as I've outgrown them (in one way or another), I just haven't been motivated to replace them. I didn't actually realize this until I took the photos for my inventory (yet another plug for this exercise). Gotta say, this trend has to change!

How do I categorize special? Well, it's either crazily-patterned or brightly-coloured or sexy or frilly - you know, whatever basic isn't. It's also given to influencing one's persona: An outgoing floral brings out one's inner flirt. Midnight navy and lace applique whisper: you are the kind of woman who has cocktails at that chic place, with all of the mysterious people. A modernist geometric print is so London @1965, a hot floral so spicy. Take on a role to suit your mood. Special sets are playful.

You know I'm rather subdued when it comes to my clothing. I like good lines, great fit and luxe materials, but I'm not out there with colour or pattern. Undergarments are how I express my intense, extroverted style.

Kristin's Favourite Special Sets:

The Garden Party: Cleo Ellis

I've written about this one here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: I just find it so pretty and evocative of the deepest summer. In truth, I rarely wear this in the winter. It's hard to look upon it when the weather's bad. This bra is very Cleo - very Jessica Rabbit. I enjoy how the pattern belies the fit. Not particularly comfortable, I will say, so it's not in regular rotation.

Rating: B

The Japanese Tapestry: Freya Nadine

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: I didn't choose this for myself - I came by it in a trade with my bra-fitter friend Veronica. I would never have chosen it but it's beautiful - serene, but not in any way muted. It actually looks much more luxurious up close. It's also gives a lifted, natural shape with its standard-issue plunge-y balconette. The band is uncommonly firm for Freya, which I appreciate, even at this point. This is one of the bras I've not been wearing because the matching undies I purchased (sight unseen, online) never fit well, and now fit outright badly. Got another thong on the way and I'm looking forward to wearing this more often.

Rating: B+

The One to Wear to a Long Lunch, On Vacation: Empreinte Lana

I've written about this one here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Well, it really is freakin' sexy - in an unexpected, I just took off this jersey wrap dress and look what I happen to be wearing kind of way. It's innocent merged with a kind of knowing insouciance. It's there to have a good time. The details are subtle, but they give this set its edge. See how the thong is asymmetric at the hips? See the buttons? That lace is exquisitely soft and perfectly weighted. It's also invisible under most things so it functions like a neutral. You don't have to gear up to wear it. It just fits well.

One of the best features of Empreinte bras is how they melt away at the underwire. Compare this bra (at the underwire) against a non-Empreinte bra in this post and you'll see how much "sturdier" the other brands seem. (Cleos are particularly implicated.) Extra fabric, below the bust, is uncomfortable for many short and/or short-waisted peeps. At very least it adds unnecessary bulk (not visually, but in terms of compression). So, if you require architecture, but you don't love under band bulk, Empreinte saves the day, yet again.

Rating: A+

The Mod: Freya, Style Name Forgotten (cut like the Phoebe)

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Well, this is my second oldest bra (along with the beige Phoebe, see link above). It's got all of the same graces and it's unusual to boot. The undies are ridiculously comfortable and cute. I have the shortie (shown) and the thong. This bra has seen just about as much action as the Phoebe and it's holding up just as well.

Rating: A+

The Siren: Empreinte Ophelia

I've reviewed this one here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Um, do I really need to answer this question? Let me just say, when I make my arty sex film, I'm wearing this. And it's an Empreinte so everything about it is perfect.

Rating: A+

The Feisty One: Freya Summer (Plunge)

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: You know what I've been reminded of while writing this post? Freya used to make really gorgeous bras that fit very well. To wit, the Summer. The band is firm for Freya and it's got that brand-distinctive, flattering balconette/plunge happening. There's nothing practical about this pattern and yet it manages to be quite wearable. It's the kind of bra, the straps of which, you show off purposefully.

Rating: B+

The Aristocrat: Felina Conturelle

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: I found it in Barcelona, on a mission to see if it would be possible to buy a non-matrix sized bra in a regular, European department store. I succeeded, but my pickings were slim. This set is incredibly luxe. It feels expensive. It looks expensive. It's serious and you will take it seriously. The colour is moody, like the landscape in which I live. This isn't a bra for mid-summer. Although it fits nothing like any of my other styles - it produces a slightly wider, flatter shape than I'm used to - it fits very supportively. It's also very comfortable. Goes to show that you don't always have to do the same thing in the same way. The most amazing feature of this set is the undies. They are truly spectacular. I wish all bras came with undies that fit like these - high waisted (at the perfect height), low cut on the leg and fully supportive of the derriere. They look awesome - a retro shape in a totally modern textile.

Here's a close-up of the leg opening. I know it looks like the waist band but that's actually the hole for the left leg (the photo is rotated). Do you see how there's no stitching at the opening? It's like that band of fabric simply extends from the very elegant fabric of the main panty. The result is an opening that glides attractively and comfortably over the outer hip and lower butt. I don't know how they've done it exactly but this fabric was obviously carefully designed to make this particular undergarment.

Rating: A-

The Ice Princess: Cleo Lori

I've reviewed this one here.

Interestingly, this is one Cleo style that doesn't reinforce the underwires all to hell. It's also a less uplifting bra than those styles - though it gives a lovely, rather round shape and the pattern is unique. The fabric, while non-stretch, is strangely pliable and doesn't give a maximal amount of support. This style modeled on the Lucy (a bra I've still never seen in real life). It's apparently a bit deeper and more open in the upper cup than the Lucy. I imagine this is true since it fits me pretty well, and my boobs are not the shape that the Lucy is designed for. Note: if it weren't as open at the upper cup as it is, there's no way I'd be able to wear it. It's merely accommodating upper fullness, not working to contain it. Mind you, this does produce an excellent wench vibe. Furthermore, the band is veritably loose by Cleo standards (which is to say that it's true to size). The fabric is softer and more pleasing to the touch than the very thick (vaguely industrial) fabric that the brand uses to make the majority of its bras. If you're looking for a natural(ish) shape in a Cleo style, this is probably it.

Rating: B+

The Blue Sky Bra: Cleo Melissa

I've written about this bra here and here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: If I were a superhero, this is the set I'd wear under the latex. It's so truly imaginative. The red, cloud lace is unique. The mix of red lace with the bright blue floral is inspired. I defy you to be depressed while wearing this. The look is only improved by the fit, which is so boobs on a plate that I worry about my tits hitting my chin when I wear it. It's all projected, all the time, and really, if you've got mega-projected close set boobs on a narrow frame, it's all good. I urge everyone within the size range to go out and buy this set because it's sassy, cheerful and hot.

Rating: A

So there you go, every bra in my wardrobe detailed in 2 posts - 21 and counting, including 2 sports bras but not including 4 that are currently in transit. (See here for my ramblings on basics.) How many bras do you have in regular rotation? For me, I do feel that 25 is the sweet spot. Have you ever photographed every bra you own? Have you recently reviewed your own bra drawer - for content and fit and to confirm that your offerings suit your current life? If no, why not? Are you afraid? Overwhelmed? Do you have 2 bras and it doesn't seem worth the effort? Note: If you've only got 2 bras you're doing it wrong - whatever the size of your breasts. (And I say this with love.) What's your style when it comes to the frilly undies? Let's talk!

My Lingerie Wardrobe: The Basics and What Taking Stock Has Taught Me

Warning: This post is endless. And it's all about bras. Proceed at your own risk.

I highly encourage everyone to do an annual inventory of the bra wardrobe. It really is an awesome way to learn more about yourself as a shopper, to learn about your changing tastes, sizes and needs. Furthermore, if you take the (non-negligible) amount of time required to enter in all of your specific bra info into Bratabase, you'll have so much good information at your fingertips (never mind that you'll be helping the world). More on how I use this database in an upcoming post...

What I've learned this go-round is:

• Pretty well every bra I own has 90 per cent of the same measurements (Bratabase has facilitated my knowledge of this fact). It surprises me how consistent this is, given that my bras come in different sizes, styles and brands.

• I need to improve my bra extender situation. I want all the colours in 2x3 ad 3x3 hooks and eyes. These aren't expensive and might make the difference between keeping a bra with a 32 band (that now I find too snug) or putting it in the "to be repurposed" drawer.

• I really don't need any more beige/neutral bras (remember the drought of 2 years ago? Well, it's a thing of the past, apparently). Note: This has not prevented me from buying 2 new beige/neutral bras. Why? I need one to fit perfectly, beautifully and upliftedly on days when I can't handle a tight band (thank you, Empreinte Daisy) and I want to try a new brand (Avocado Essentia).

• By my standards, I need a few replacement black basics. Currently I own 4 (one of which is on the edge). I've resolved this issue by purchasing 3 new ones (Avocado, Mirabelle / Masquerade, Persia / Cleo Minnie). This also meets the goal of "online bra shopping adventure". Gotta love that.

• Of all of the new bras I've purchased, in recent memory, only two of them has 2x3 hooks. I'm not into them anymore (except if they manage to hit a sweet spot, band-wise). Having done some fairly extensive research, I've learned that only Empreinte does 3x3 consistently in a wide range of sizes (not simply the large cups and large bands). Other brands are hit and miss. If Ewa Michalak and Avocado work (TBD), there are some 3x3 offerings in those brands - and they're affordable.

• I've outgrown some undies. Happily, only the ones that were on the cusp of too-snug to begin with. Have had to replace those or I won't wear the bras - ask me how I know.

• I have pretty awesome taste in lingerie - if I do say so myself! :-) I still love all the things I loved when I originally bought them. Or I've divested myself of them. But, in truth, most of the bras I've bought are, by my estimation, GORGEOUS. I give them away for reasons other than taste mismatch.

• My cup size is officially one size larger than it was 2 years ago. For a long while, I was hovering on the cusp but I'm not any longer. This will likely make it easier for me to buy. Given that (IMO) I don't require additional full bust volume (like, to improve the quality of my life), I would prefer that this were not the case. But it is. Hormonal fluctuation is a bitch. I'm going to give my body the benefit of the doubt. When I finish this phase of my life, I'm confident that things will settle (much as they did after puberty and childbirth) and that I will return to my exceedingly stable (in the scheme of things) cup size. You'll just have to stick around to see :-)

• My underbust measurement is unchanged (30 inches) - it just feels wider, probably because I can't stand anything snug.

• For my comfort, I like to have 5-7 beige/neutral and 5-7 black sets - all perfectly-fitted, natch. I've very specific about when I wear what. I have bras for briefings, bras for days when I'll spend time writing at my desk, bras to match an outfit (either craziness under monochrome or the other way around). Lately, I'm not feeling so upbeat, so I've noticed my interest in the crazy (fashion) bras has waned. Since the latest cull, I've got 8 of this sort remaining - a couple of which you might consider basic, given that they're solids / not bright. If I'm going to expand my lingerie wardrobe any further, in the next year, it will be in the fashion category. (There's an argument that it's a bit on the wan side.) Mind you, some people would consider 8 fashion bras to be more than adequate, especially with 15 neutrals to round out the story. BTW, I also own 2 sports bras. I've torched the lounge bras. I cannot wear ugliness, especially if it's not comfortable.

But on with the details, in no particular order. Note: These bras are shown without undies because, as neutrals, they're generally matchable with many brands. I'm going to rate them against each other, but keep in mind that they all fit very well. The ratings aren't about fit on me, but about how much use I get from them and which are my personal faves...

Kristin's Basic Beige / Neutral Bras:

The Outlier: Bravissimo Alana

I wrote a review of this bra here.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe? It's a totally gorgeous shade of pink - not beige! Goes really well with my skin tone. It's got terrific support and great uplift. It's got 3 hooks! Very well made. Very comfortable! Totally pretty.

Why is it an outlier? See the review for details. Effectively, it's too shallow at the centre cup (you can see that if you compare this bra to all of the others you're about to see. Notice how it doesn't puff up fabric from the centre gore - it's largely flat there.) It's got the right volume for me, just not the right shape. Also, since my back decided to stop liking snug bands, this 32 has moved into extender territory for me...

Note: You must get the matching undies. Mine are on their way from UK now. I've only worn this bra 3 times so far, despite what I love about it, because the pink is totally unmatchable.

Rating: B This bra isn't the "most" anything. But it does give outstanding lift with comfort.

The Warhorse: Fantasie Smoothing 4520

I've written numerous reviews of this bra. Here's an index...

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe? Well, it's one of the only 2 seam-free (molded) bras I own. (Note: I do not own one lined or padded bra so both of my seam-frees are soft cup with wires.) It gives a totally smooth and round look under snug tops. It never shows through. In the right size it's comfortable. It's got amazing projection for a molded bra - most molded bras are shallow - and even when they're not, they carry most volume in the outer breast. I need it at the inner breast. I generally own it in 2 different sizes (because it's not so forgiving in the cups or back).

Rating: A+ for wearability, if nothing else.

The Upscale Newbie: Empreinte Daisy

I've written a review of this bra here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Well, it is PERFECTION in the cups. It's gorgeous. And it's utterly comfortable, particularly in the band. As mentioned, when I need something that's going to look as good as it feels, this is the beige bra I'll go for. I will definitely replace this one when it gives out (which won't be for years, if my other Empreintes are anything to go by).

Note: You must get the matching undies.

Rating: A++ It would get 3 pluses if it were affordable to many.

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Say what you will about this bra - it's awesome when you want a vintage look. This is the ONLY unwired bra I've ever worn that actually keeps my boobs apart. Given my inner-cup immediate projection and size, that's miraculous. It's apparently the world's most popular bra. (I can't verify that claim.) It's German-engineered. It's made of something like 54 pieces (which is why it's so contoured).

It's also insanely comfortable with 3 hooks and eyes. It gives tremendous uplift (albeit in a pointy shape - which I realize isn't popular these days). There is NO bounce. It's got the length of a midline bra, not a regular one. It's the ultimate sweater bra.

Challenges? Well, it doesn't come in small band/large cup combos. Mind you, the band is very firm (but comfortable!) so you could totally size up in the band. Even the snug-band loving Krissie would say this. It's super-warm. Not a summertime bra! It's also impossible to wear under most every neckline but the crew and the turtleneck. It's not like a modern repro - it's seriously old-school. So if you don't like that, it ain't for you.

Rating: B+ It would get a higher rating if it were more wearable. But when it fits the bill, it's terrific.

The Old Friend: Freya Phoebe

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: This is the oldest bra I own and it still fits snugly more than 10 years later. I've gone through phases where it was my ONLY beige bra so I wore it multiple times a week. It's like a magical bra. Regardless of my size and shape, it has fit me perfectly - and it still looks new?! It's an original Freya - from back when the quality was high, and the price point was higher. Back before Freya started catering to the teen boobs and lost its edge. 

You probably won't be able to find this one on eBay. Trust me, I've tried. I've also tried to find the other styles made in the same fabric (different pattern/colourways) and same cut. They're gone, gone, gone.

The lace is beautiful, the colour is too. It's got an open shape at the upper cup, which allows one with even to full on top breasts to wear it through various monthly fluctuations. This is accomplished with firm lace, not the flimsy stretch stuff they're putting on all of the Panaches these days. The wires are a perfect width. The fabric has no give, but it's not industrial-seeming in any way. It's completely invisible under tight clothing. It's one of the first wearable bras I ever bought that made me feel completely sexy.

Rating:  A++

The One To Wear To a Picnic: Freya Lacey

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Why not, I say. Look, I don't go to a lot of picnics, but occasionally I want a girly bra - one that can go under most anything. This is a nice plunge (not too extreme the way the Panaches and Cleos tend to be). The band is quite firm for a Freya (again, this is an older model - came out as the brand began to lose it). The undies are very comfortable. This bra is fairly polarizing. Most people have a hate-on for it.

Note: You must get the matching undies. This beige is more taupey than beige and would be a nightmare to try to match - never mind with dots.

Rating: B It's hard to get excited by something this "country".

But we're not done! Now there are the black bras to contend with.

The French Mistress: Empreinte Roxane

I've written about this one numerous times. See the index.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe: Because it's fucking sexy. It fits awesomely. It lifts, it supports, it gives great shape under clothing. It's luxe. It's sheer but strong. The band is comfortable (3x3). When you put on this bra, you're ready to take on the world - and have a quickie while you're at it. Alas, it's discontinued but if you can find it - don't be stupid. Just buy it. (Then email me to let me know where you got it.)

Rating: A++

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this is in my current wardrobe: This is one of the only bras I've got doubles of. What can I say? When I'm wearing cashmere in February, it's a good choice. It's also fun for getting my Bettie Page on. Same pluses and minuses exist with the black as with the beige (see above).

Rating: B+

The Desperate Measure: Empreinte Melody

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Well, desperation, partially. I needed a 3x3, black bra with an incredibly comfortable band STAT or I was going to lose my mind. And, given the dearth of black bra options I have in my current wardrobe, it does see its fair share of wear. Of all the Empreintes, I find this one particularly unlovely. It borders on dowdy - unheard of with this brand! It's incredibly comfortable (straps are padded?!) but it's molded - and it's not deep at the centre cups. The gore only notionally tacks. I'll happily phase it out as soon as I have a better alternative. Then, if someone else likes it (and there are those who love this style), it will find a happy new home. Note: I do LOVE the version of this bra with satin ribbon around the upper cups - it's a plunge and it's gorgeous. When I was between sizes, I couldn't get it to fit - the band was too big or the cup was too small. May give it another try soon. See - this is why you take an inventory!

Rating: B-

The Siren: Empreinte Lola

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Because it opened my eyes to Empreinte. Because I looked long and hard to find it and it was my first experience of pure sex converging with utter practicality. Because, when I bought it the fit, on me, was unparalleled. (There are few bras that give you the kind of boobs on a plate look that this thing has going on.) Because, if I were a princess, I'd have them make it for me in all the colours of the rainbow. Because the lace is spectacular. Because the band is comfortable. Because it wears like a tank.

Alas, I bought this when I commonly wore a 30 band and I think this bra is on the cusp of being too small in both back and cup. I don't think I'll be able to part with it, even if I have to retire it. It represents a wonderful moment in time.

Rating: A++

So, there you go, the longest post EVAH. I do hope you've enjoyed it.

Today's questions: Which is your fave and why? Do you own any of these? If yes, what's your experience of the bra in question? Do you think I'm a nut for having spent 2 hours documenting all of my neutral bras? Let's talk - seriously - after all this work, I'd love some good conversation. :-)

Inside Job

Y’all know I’m a fairly organized woman. I love categories, loathe clutter and I’m possessed to make things streamlined a) in a wasted effort to control the world and b) because I secretly want everything to be perfect and lovely like the inside of a design magazine.

You can see how this might backfire continually given that I live with other human beings who don’t necessarily believe it is a punishable offense to touch walls or pin up posters of Selena Gomez all over the freakin’ place. (I know, I know. The crosses I bear.)

This is a long, vaguely off-point preamble leading you to the substance of this post: my latest realization that, seriously, I must shop my closet – not because of the recession (which I am very concerned about, naturally, but entirely sick of discussing), but because it is neither disorganized nor lacking for fabulous pieces. And yet, somehow I manage to repurchase the same freakin’ sweater every year. Go figure.

We read a lot of posts advising us to organize ourselves for maximum efficiency. They are particularly prevalent at this time of year. I’ve been looking them over and appreciating their content and thinking good point and see how much better that is all fixed up. I’ve been rather occupied by work stresses lately and by the new school year (as a parent) and by the latest renovation thing I have going on in my house (a continuation of the plaster work that started this spring). Lord knows, I have neither time nor extra disposable funds to apply to new bits and baubles.

What is it with me and the neither/nor thing today?

Savvy bloggers advise that we should organize because, in the absence of clarity, we are likely to wear the same thing all the time. Also, there’s potentially tons of crap, going unused, taking up valuable real estate and masquerading as stuff you might one day wear again, . Here’s the thing, I love everything I buy (even if, a few years after purchase, my tastes change) and I’m not a crap-keeper. You look in my closets – ok I have encroached upon M’s but she will be the beneficiary someday! – and things are neatly folded according to colour and denier and time of year. How is it that I still manage to wear the same 6 pairs of jeans and 8 tops (with a few little jackets thrown in for good measure)?

I look at Sal and Wendy and Jennine (to name but a few) and I’m blown away by their creativity. Seriously, you seen a Sal photo post lately? That woman has shoes for everything. And she wears them!

It occurs to me that this is not rocket science. I have clothes. I bought them with the same sassy taste I apply to my day to day dressing. I routinely read lots of magazines and blogs. I have a good eye and I’m nervy. What’s the problem? Fatigue? Apathy? Laziness??

Here’s what I’ve decided (but don’t hold me to it – in addition to the qualities listed above, I’m wishy-washy):

• Every week, I’m going to come up with one new way of styling the same old stuff .
• I’m also going to wear one thing not currently in circulation, even if it means I have to move the stuff on the far side to the middle (and mess up my colour progression).
• If I can’t find a use for that, ahem, crazy – if fantastic - item x I bought with the understanding I’d wear it semi-regularly, I’m going to put it up for sale on Laws of General Economy (though that is quite a time-suck, though a worthy one) or give it to a friend or put it on the front lawn for trawlers.

Who’s with me? Do you think your life might be enriched by a small, creative kick in the ass?