My Lingerie Wardrobe: The Basics and What Taking Stock Has Taught Me

Warning: This post is endless. And it's all about bras. Proceed at your own risk.

I highly encourage everyone to do an annual inventory of the bra wardrobe. It really is an awesome way to learn more about yourself as a shopper, to learn about your changing tastes, sizes and needs. Furthermore, if you take the (non-negligible) amount of time required to enter in all of your specific bra info into Bratabase, you'll have so much good information at your fingertips (never mind that you'll be helping the world). More on how I use this database in an upcoming post...

What I've learned this go-round is:

• Pretty well every bra I own has 90 per cent of the same measurements (Bratabase has facilitated my knowledge of this fact). It surprises me how consistent this is, given that my bras come in different sizes, styles and brands.

• I need to improve my bra extender situation. I want all the colours in 2x3 ad 3x3 hooks and eyes. These aren't expensive and might make the difference between keeping a bra with a 32 band (that now I find too snug) or putting it in the "to be repurposed" drawer.

• I really don't need any more beige/neutral bras (remember the drought of 2 years ago? Well, it's a thing of the past, apparently). Note: This has not prevented me from buying 2 new beige/neutral bras. Why? I need one to fit perfectly, beautifully and upliftedly on days when I can't handle a tight band (thank you, Empreinte Daisy) and I want to try a new brand (Avocado Essentia).

• By my standards, I need a few replacement black basics. Currently I own 4 (one of which is on the edge). I've resolved this issue by purchasing 3 new ones (Avocado, Mirabelle / Masquerade, Persia / Cleo Minnie). This also meets the goal of "online bra shopping adventure". Gotta love that.

• Of all of the new bras I've purchased, in recent memory, only two of them has 2x3 hooks. I'm not into them anymore (except if they manage to hit a sweet spot, band-wise). Having done some fairly extensive research, I've learned that only Empreinte does 3x3 consistently in a wide range of sizes (not simply the large cups and large bands). Other brands are hit and miss. If Ewa Michalak and Avocado work (TBD), there are some 3x3 offerings in those brands - and they're affordable.

• I've outgrown some undies. Happily, only the ones that were on the cusp of too-snug to begin with. Have had to replace those or I won't wear the bras - ask me how I know.

• I have pretty awesome taste in lingerie - if I do say so myself! :-) I still love all the things I loved when I originally bought them. Or I've divested myself of them. But, in truth, most of the bras I've bought are, by my estimation, GORGEOUS. I give them away for reasons other than taste mismatch.

• My cup size is officially one size larger than it was 2 years ago. For a long while, I was hovering on the cusp but I'm not any longer. This will likely make it easier for me to buy. Given that (IMO) I don't require additional full bust volume (like, to improve the quality of my life), I would prefer that this were not the case. But it is. Hormonal fluctuation is a bitch. I'm going to give my body the benefit of the doubt. When I finish this phase of my life, I'm confident that things will settle (much as they did after puberty and childbirth) and that I will return to my exceedingly stable (in the scheme of things) cup size. You'll just have to stick around to see :-)

• My underbust measurement is unchanged (30 inches) - it just feels wider, probably because I can't stand anything snug.

• For my comfort, I like to have 5-7 beige/neutral and 5-7 black sets - all perfectly-fitted, natch. I've very specific about when I wear what. I have bras for briefings, bras for days when I'll spend time writing at my desk, bras to match an outfit (either craziness under monochrome or the other way around). Lately, I'm not feeling so upbeat, so I've noticed my interest in the crazy (fashion) bras has waned. Since the latest cull, I've got 8 of this sort remaining - a couple of which you might consider basic, given that they're solids / not bright. If I'm going to expand my lingerie wardrobe any further, in the next year, it will be in the fashion category. (There's an argument that it's a bit on the wan side.) Mind you, some people would consider 8 fashion bras to be more than adequate, especially with 15 neutrals to round out the story. BTW, I also own 2 sports bras. I've torched the lounge bras. I cannot wear ugliness, especially if it's not comfortable.

But on with the details, in no particular order. Note: These bras are shown without undies because, as neutrals, they're generally matchable with many brands. I'm going to rate them against each other, but keep in mind that they all fit very well. The ratings aren't about fit on me, but about how much use I get from them and which are my personal faves...

Kristin's Basic Beige / Neutral Bras:

The Outlier: Bravissimo Alana

I wrote a review of this bra here.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe? It's a totally gorgeous shade of pink - not beige! Goes really well with my skin tone. It's got terrific support and great uplift. It's got 3 hooks! Very well made. Very comfortable! Totally pretty.

Why is it an outlier? See the review for details. Effectively, it's too shallow at the centre cup (you can see that if you compare this bra to all of the others you're about to see. Notice how it doesn't puff up fabric from the centre gore - it's largely flat there.) It's got the right volume for me, just not the right shape. Also, since my back decided to stop liking snug bands, this 32 has moved into extender territory for me...

Note: You must get the matching undies. Mine are on their way from UK now. I've only worn this bra 3 times so far, despite what I love about it, because the pink is totally unmatchable.

Rating: B This bra isn't the "most" anything. But it does give outstanding lift with comfort.

The Warhorse: Fantasie Smoothing 4520

I've written numerous reviews of this bra. Here's an index...

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe? Well, it's one of the only 2 seam-free (molded) bras I own. (Note: I do not own one lined or padded bra so both of my seam-frees are soft cup with wires.) It gives a totally smooth and round look under snug tops. It never shows through. In the right size it's comfortable. It's got amazing projection for a molded bra - most molded bras are shallow - and even when they're not, they carry most volume in the outer breast. I need it at the inner breast. I generally own it in 2 different sizes (because it's not so forgiving in the cups or back).

Rating: A+ for wearability, if nothing else.

The Upscale Newbie: Empreinte Daisy

I've written a review of this bra here.

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Well, it is PERFECTION in the cups. It's gorgeous. And it's utterly comfortable, particularly in the band. As mentioned, when I need something that's going to look as good as it feels, this is the beige bra I'll go for. I will definitely replace this one when it gives out (which won't be for years, if my other Empreintes are anything to go by).

Note: You must get the matching undies.

Rating: A++ It would get 3 pluses if it were affordable to many.

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: Say what you will about this bra - it's awesome when you want a vintage look. This is the ONLY unwired bra I've ever worn that actually keeps my boobs apart. Given my inner-cup immediate projection and size, that's miraculous. It's apparently the world's most popular bra. (I can't verify that claim.) It's German-engineered. It's made of something like 54 pieces (which is why it's so contoured).

It's also insanely comfortable with 3 hooks and eyes. It gives tremendous uplift (albeit in a pointy shape - which I realize isn't popular these days). There is NO bounce. It's got the length of a midline bra, not a regular one. It's the ultimate sweater bra.

Challenges? Well, it doesn't come in small band/large cup combos. Mind you, the band is very firm (but comfortable!) so you could totally size up in the band. Even the snug-band loving Krissie would say this. It's super-warm. Not a summertime bra! It's also impossible to wear under most every neckline but the crew and the turtleneck. It's not like a modern repro - it's seriously old-school. So if you don't like that, it ain't for you.

Rating: B+ It would get a higher rating if it were more wearable. But when it fits the bill, it's terrific.

The Old Friend: Freya Phoebe

Why this bra is in my current wardrobe: This is the oldest bra I own and it still fits snugly more than 10 years later. I've gone through phases where it was my ONLY beige bra so I wore it multiple times a week. It's like a magical bra. Regardless of my size and shape, it has fit me perfectly - and it still looks new?! It's an original Freya - from back when the quality was high, and the price point was higher. Back before Freya started catering to the teen boobs and lost its edge. 

You probably won't be able to find this one on eBay. Trust me, I've tried. I've also tried to find the other styles made in the same fabric (different pattern/colourways) and same cut. They're gone, gone, gone.

The lace is beautiful, the colour is too. It's got an open shape at the upper cup, which allows one with even to full on top breasts to wear it through various monthly fluctuations. This is accomplished with firm lace, not the flimsy stretch stuff they're putting on all of the Panaches these days. The wires are a perfect width. The fabric has no give, but it's not industrial-seeming in any way. It's completely invisible under tight clothing. It's one of the first wearable bras I ever bought that made me feel completely sexy.

Rating:  A++

The One To Wear To a Picnic: Freya Lacey

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Why not, I say. Look, I don't go to a lot of picnics, but occasionally I want a girly bra - one that can go under most anything. This is a nice plunge (not too extreme the way the Panaches and Cleos tend to be). The band is quite firm for a Freya (again, this is an older model - came out as the brand began to lose it). The undies are very comfortable. This bra is fairly polarizing. Most people have a hate-on for it.

Note: You must get the matching undies. This beige is more taupey than beige and would be a nightmare to try to match - never mind with dots.

Rating: B It's hard to get excited by something this "country".

But we're not done! Now there are the black bras to contend with.

The French Mistress: Empreinte Roxane

I've written about this one numerous times. See the index.

Why is this bra in my current wardrobe: Because it's fucking sexy. It fits awesomely. It lifts, it supports, it gives great shape under clothing. It's luxe. It's sheer but strong. The band is comfortable (3x3). When you put on this bra, you're ready to take on the world - and have a quickie while you're at it. Alas, it's discontinued but if you can find it - don't be stupid. Just buy it. (Then email me to let me know where you got it.)

Rating: A++

The Pin Up Girl: Triumph Doreen

Why this is in my current wardrobe: This is one of the only bras I've got doubles of. What can I say? When I'm wearing cashmere in February, it's a good choice. It's also fun for getting my Bettie Page on. Same pluses and minuses exist with the black as with the beige (see above).

Rating: B+

The Desperate Measure: Empreinte Melody

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Well, desperation, partially. I needed a 3x3, black bra with an incredibly comfortable band STAT or I was going to lose my mind. And, given the dearth of black bra options I have in my current wardrobe, it does see its fair share of wear. Of all the Empreintes, I find this one particularly unlovely. It borders on dowdy - unheard of with this brand! It's incredibly comfortable (straps are padded?!) but it's molded - and it's not deep at the centre cups. The gore only notionally tacks. I'll happily phase it out as soon as I have a better alternative. Then, if someone else likes it (and there are those who love this style), it will find a happy new home. Note: I do LOVE the version of this bra with satin ribbon around the upper cups - it's a plunge and it's gorgeous. When I was between sizes, I couldn't get it to fit - the band was too big or the cup was too small. May give it another try soon. See - this is why you take an inventory!

Rating: B-

The Siren: Empreinte Lola

Why this is in my current wardrobe: Because it opened my eyes to Empreinte. Because I looked long and hard to find it and it was my first experience of pure sex converging with utter practicality. Because, when I bought it the fit, on me, was unparalleled. (There are few bras that give you the kind of boobs on a plate look that this thing has going on.) Because, if I were a princess, I'd have them make it for me in all the colours of the rainbow. Because the lace is spectacular. Because the band is comfortable. Because it wears like a tank.

Alas, I bought this when I commonly wore a 30 band and I think this bra is on the cusp of being too small in both back and cup. I don't think I'll be able to part with it, even if I have to retire it. It represents a wonderful moment in time.

Rating: A++

So, there you go, the longest post EVAH. I do hope you've enjoyed it.

Today's questions: Which is your fave and why? Do you own any of these? If yes, what's your experience of the bra in question? Do you think I'm a nut for having spent 2 hours documenting all of my neutral bras? Let's talk - seriously - after all this work, I'd love some good conversation. :-)

The Plain Beige Bra Chronicles: Bravissimo Alana

Update: Thanks so much to Jill and Amanda and Elizabeth and Gillian and Julianne and Somisawhel for finding this lost post in her reader and saving me from having throw my computer out the window.

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I haven't even started to write this post but I can feel it's going to be involved.

The Brief Back Story: Y'all know I'm desperate to find a replacement plain, beige bra that will fit smoothly under clothing and that isn't lined or padded. Easier said than done.

The Latest Attempt: Bravissimo Alana

The Findings (to be followed by an in depth analysis of bra shape and the universe):

• This bra is terrific, IMO. It's a lovely pink beige. The fabric is very firm and not scratchy (as some others have suggested in reviews). It's not luxe, but it in no way feels cheap.

• The shape is round, but with a slight point at the apex. This is how I like my bras because, to me, it highlights a genuine form. Some people say it's pointy. It's not. It might be pointier than they prefer but, I can assure you, I know from pointy. There is a slight down-slope from the upper cup to the apex. It's not intense. I suspect that this, coupled with the firmness of the upper cup lace is what makes the bra tricky for full on top breasts. 

• It's very supportive AND very lifted. Tough times finding both of these features in the same bra, much less a plain, beige version. I am thrilled to say that these features coexist in this style. Furthermore, it brings the breasts forward on the frame, without any side sling or vertical seaming. To some extent, this is because the fabric is strong.

• It's ridiculously comfortable. Honestly, I wore it all day and it was as pleasant as could be. The band is awesome, frankly. It's thick, firm but also quite malleable. The straps are on the wide side, but not unattractive, especially given that they're nicely set on the bra. I got the 3 hooks-wide version because I sized up - and it's the widest 3 hooks I've ever worn. In smaller sizes, the band is only 2 hooks wide, but I suspect they'd be about as wide as that of your average 3-hook bra. The wings (side band where it meets the cup) are high, as is the upper outer cup. Mind you, the wires aren't overly tall, IMO, nor are they particularly narrow nor wide. It's not one of those bras that cuts under your arm, is what I mean, though some have suggested that it does for them.

Now Let's Dig Into The Fit Details (which includes info about how it fits me, specifically):

There is but one challenge for me with this bra and for me it's cosmetic. Note: This challenge - which I'm about to discuss in detail - is generally a fit deal-breaker in that it denotes bad fit most of the time. In this particular scenario, one of the few I can think of, it does not. But pls. read the deets, to understand why. 

•  Given the cut of this bra, on me, the gore does not tack. This is to say that I can fit a finger between the midline of the gore and my breastbone. This does not extend to the base of the gore. The base of the bra is firm against my body everywhere, as it should be.

You might be thinking, Kristin, a gore that floats means the cups are too small. Trust me, I've tried many a bra wherein the gore doesn't tack and it was because the cups were too small. In this case, it's because the inner upper cup/inner lower cup unit are cut slightly too shallow for my breast shape.

To wit: the wires sit perfectly beyond, even, where the gore begins its vertical rise. The upper cup is not tight - in fact, it's a bit loose on my smaller side - with a notable absence of the "quad boob" so many have experienced with the Alana. The outer cup fits perfectly against my breasts. Neither outer cup nor upper cup fullness conspire to pull the gore away from my breastbone. The gore is not wider than the span between my breasts. The straps could not be better situated for my shoulders. Honestly, this bra is FREAKIN' perfect on me in every other way.

In no small irony, this is the very thing I can't figure out when making my own bras. The minute I've got a tacked gore, the upper cup is a disaster of looseness.

I'm so taxed to understand... Whatever I struggle with in bra fit (and in fitting hand-made bras that much more), has to do with very fast projection at the inner breast, from the breastbone.

What I mean is this: My breasts are an average, over both sides, of 11.75 inches deep (measured from inner breast, where the gore would tack centrally, to the outer breast). Although my nipples are centred on this sphere (aka, my breasts do not splay to the sides), the projection from my breastbone is immediate. This isn't because my breastbone protrudes. I sense, it's because my breast root is proportionately wider than it is long. My breasts don't start high up on my chest, nor do they extend (at the root base) particularly low. This means that they don't cover much body length and yet they still manage to achieve a significant amount of depth. They go straight out, fast. In fact, were gravity not playing a role (at this point) they'd be rather in your face, so to speak.

The cut of the Alana, at the inner cup, is not conducive to this. In terms of my breast volume, the cups are more than adequate and the wire width is great. But this bra is putting that extra volume I need into some other spot. Upper cup or outer cup, I can't quite tell. Which is probably why I can't make a bra that fits. Needless to say, I've got to consider this shape carefully against my Cleos and Empreintes (which work amazingly for narrow frames and large breasts having short roots).

The Alana does not widen my shape because it's not fighting my shape. It's simply not perfectly conforming to it in one specific spot.

In my considered estimation, I could wear this without any problems - no damage to breast tissue, no potential "migration" (not that I necessarily buy into this concept), no smushing, no pulling.

But here's the thing...

I am an order-driven individual who associates non-tacking gores with problematic fit. Though you probably wouldn't even notice the gore, if I didn't point it out to you, I am all too aware of it. To me it spells imperfection. For me, a tacking gore - which, btw, mitigates cleavage substantively - is the bellwether of fit. I'm one of those people who, wearing a bra one-size too small (note: the Alana does NOT fall into this category), sports cleavage resembling a teenager's derriere. I don't like that. I think it looks cheap.

So...

I'm probably not going to buy another of these - though I sure as hell am going to wear it till I find a better alternative. A propos of this, I've ordered 3 more styles of plain, beige bra (more info to come) and I'm going to order the Bravissimo Melrose - another plain bra, this one with vertical seaming. I wonder if it will provide more inner cup depth. Of course, I have no idea whether to size up or not. Depending on (relatively few) reviews, it's anyone's guess.

Today's questions: What do you think? Will you try this bra on the basis of my review? Do you share my breast shape (size notwithstanding)? Do you think I'm an insane control freak who has stupid views on butt-crack cleavage? Let's talk!

Is This The One?

I'm so grateful for all of your recent suggestions about which models of beige bras may fit. Though my latest online purchase hasn't arrived yet, let me tell you how it's going on the hunt to find a new "plain" bra.

Thanks to an anonymous tip, I have purchased the Bravissimo Alana:

It's a bra I've read about many times, on many blogs, and somehow, it just missed my purchase radar.

Mainly that's cuz Bravissimo has always seemed to me to be like an unnecessary, expensive version of Figleaves. Of course, the one way in which they meaningfully diverge is that Figleaves doesn't sell Bravissimo-brand bras (of which the Alana is one) and Bravissimo doesn't sell Figleaves-brand bras (aka Midnight Grace, Just Peachy). To clarify: I know that, if you live in England, you can visit bricks and mortar locations of either store and get good deals on all kinds of things. I'm speaking here as a colonial.

While the Alana is a fairly inexpensive bra (£26.00 regular price - and hilariously it just went on sale today for £20, though not in beige), the £7.95 shipping seems excessive. I mean, they're just going to pop an unlined aka flat bra into an envelope which, undoubtedly, they send at a high-volume discount. When one pays overage of @30 per cent of the garment-price on shipping from a major online vendor, something is wrong. 

OK, rant over.

If the bra fits beautifully and does the (very necessary) trick, I will happily buy 3 of them at once - thereby reducing the relative shipping price considerably. 

What I determined, in the course of my research, is that the bra is apt to fit my shape well. I've also read, like everywhere, is that it fits very small in both cup and back. (Women with full on top shapes often find that the fixed-edge, upper cup trim cuts into breast tissue.) To be on the safe size, I ordered up a size in each.

I can't tell you more at this point. Will it fit? Will it be unobtrusive under clothing? Will it be comfortable? Will it give good shape under slender fabrics? Will I have to return it?! (Oh, please no!)

I will keep you posted though.

Meanwhile, any of y'all who've tried this bra - what do you think??