Closet Case

In case you think I'm joking about everything in my wardrobe being some shade of blue or grey, behold my current closet:

This includes summer hangables on the left side, my only aim at colour. That weird pants hanger came with the place.

In addition to this, I have a chest of drawers (could we not come up with a less arcane way of describing this furniture? Is it 1682?) for yoga clothes, lingerie (a huge component of the wardrobe), jammies, sweaters and skin care components (what? that's totally normal). My current bras are no longer fitting, due to loss of inches, and my rainbow of other sizes is packed up in the house being renoed. Like, behind a boarded-up door. So I'm not being minimal on the bra front. I've already had to order 3 new sets. :-)

I've never been a true minimalist. I don't throw everything away if I haven't worn it in 5 years. Some things only get worn every 5 years. But y'all know I'm not a hoarder in the remotest sense. This recent move was an opportunity for me to pack up only the most relevant (as I saw it) clothing for 3 seasons.

Now, all of you (fortunately) living in California (and Italy and Australia etc.) likely do not understand what 3 seasons really means - esp. if one of those seasons is winter and another is "spring". In short: It means a shit ton of clothing is required because you never know when it's going to snow, pour with rain. sleet or hail, be 40C in the shade, have wind gusts of 100 km an hour or be hot/cold (an interesting TO phenomenon wherein it is both hot and cold simultaneously and for which it is impossible to dress) for days at a time. There is NO fucking way to predict the weather here. To wit: Yesterday, as it poured relentlessly for 10 hours - the kind that trashes your shoes in a minute and potentially kills the cherry blossoms in High Park for the second year running - I observed an hour of wet snow flurries. People, that's not ok but that's how it is here. Our trees are still bare, if starting to green. We've had a reprieve from the months of gray but that goes as fast as it comes and then the most terrible melancholy rises to the surface. We all feel it. It's a cultural phenomenon as distinct as this weather pattern. When I say that people in TO go insane when the spring (sort of) hits, I'm not joking. We're a people in the grip of unknowable, but miserable, weather for fully half the year and by March we are done. Note: Since we rarely experience storms that cause millions in damage, we don't see a lot of air play. But this weather is spirit-crushing. Read any Ontarian blog from early March to mid-May and you'll see what I mean. That's when we full-on lose it.

I own upwards 10 coats - all of them are still in regular rotation. This doesn't include the rain gear.

Anyway, long diatribe aside, I decided to use this move as an opportunity to experience my inner-minimalist. I only brought half of my clothing. In truth, I recycled 50 per cent of the other half because I do that occasionally...

If you check out my IG, yesterday I did a bit of sale shopping. Now, if you know anything about this move (which we did ourselves, like college students?!, because my husband would not relinquish control), you'll know that we do not want to bring back one thing more than that with which we originally moved. Except an 80 lb espresso machine.

But my current 2 pairs of denim leggings are both too baggy and frayed at the inner upper thigh. My staple, a striped T shirt, needs seasonal replacing as those really get worn to shit.* My "lounge" wear has become hideous through overuse. I wish that those Gap crew T shirts weren't out of stock everywhere, including online, because there won't be another shipment till after the summer, according to the SA. And, on that topic, OMG people. We need readily available long-sleeved t shirts all year long! Everywhere in the world. How can they stop making these in February??? M and I have been sharing a pair of rain boots for a year because I gave my Hunter wedges away (too heel-like, too heavy). Then our shared pair died. I went all out crazy and bought 2 new pairs because, hey, I figure the rain is never going to end if I don't. Also, they were so on sale I couldn't believe it.

Short story: I have thrown out the ratted T shirts (they have holes!), the frayed leggings, the rubber shoes with tears. And I replaced them all-too conservatively. Partly cuz I don't want to have to move shit and partly because I couldn't find the requisite number of t shirts for lounging and sleep.

On that topic, since I cannot shut up about it, I went to Kit and Ace to seek out other Ts and there were some fantastic options. They cost 148.00 CDN before 13% tax. Sorry, I can't do it. Not for a T shirt I'm going to wear to watch TV. No high-street store had anything remotely useful. Nor did The Bay?! I'm actually feeling T shirt-drought anxiety!

So, today's questions: Is everything in your closet the same colour? Can you tell me where the hell to find a fitted, hip-length, crew neck, long sleeved, black/grey/navy T shirt at this time of year? (Under 40 bucks before tax pls! I trash those things.) Am I the only one who still has denim leggings in rotation? And, if you live in southern Ontario, how's your mental state at this point? Let's talk.

PS: Last day of vacay here, and what a truly necessary and health-affirming holiday this has been. I do hope I'll have the opp to continue to post more regularly once I return to work because, really, I love this space...

*FYI, while I have no use for J Crew (so bland, so badly made), they've come up with a short-sleeve T shirt style this year that is extremely flattering given the cut and fabric. I do recommend you try the style. The sleeves are longer than others (half way to elbows) so if you like arm coverage, this may be the T for you. I really like the neck-line and length. Size down. This knit fits large given a copious amount of stretch with great recovery.

PSA: COS is in the 'Hood

Y'all know how I love COS - that Swedish brand that's a bit like Club Monaco but much more deconstructed (for the most part). The prices are better too. Well, COS was only available to me in Europe till a couple of months ago when it moved into Bloor Street. (I know the brand has also expanded into the US recently - for example, there's one in NYC.)

What I love about it, mainly, is the asymmetric and interesting design and fabrics which are very wearable and much more luxe seeming than the price point (merino comes to mind).

At any rate, though I'd read about the shop opening on Bloor, I didn't think much of it because I hadn't yet run across it so it was basically just a fairy tale. Today, however, all that changed - completely by accident - and I'm thrilled to tell you that it's just as good in TO as it is in Barcelona (in fact, it looks almost identical). I'm particularly pleased that one can actually afford to buy something there before it goes on sale (though sales are preferable, natch).

To wit:

COS Asymmetric Merino Top - $125.00 CDN

I know, the photo make this thing look like a chic convocation gown. Don't be fooled - it's fantastic.

This photo does no justice to the beautiful quality of merino wool of which this garment is made. And really, what is this garment? It's more of a dress on me than a top - but if you were tall it would be more like a hip length top. Or is it a poncho? Who cares. It's stunning and, as much to the point, interesting - and it looks like a million bucks. One arm gets a full, fitted sleeve and the other gets a little opening where the arm goes through (like a cape). It's very warm though, even as it's rather slim in the gauge, because it's comprised of a lot of really warm fiber and it's cut high in the neck. Dress it up, dress it down. You're going to look rich either way.

At any rate, I recommend you get your butt to COS. You could also buy online - though not sure how expensive that would be.

Today's questions: Do you know the brand? Have you got some COS in your wardrobe? If yes, does it make you feel Swedish when you put on those crazy cocoon shapes? Do you feel the need to wear a black stacked boot while donning the crazy cocoon shapes? Let's talk.

Fall Shopping: Head to Toe

I have a lot of things to do this weekend. I just finished having a brief moment of resentment about this, even though, as I work my way through the list I know I'll feel productive and pleased. Gardening (the thing that's tormenting me in the back of my mind) will not be on the list because there's a projection for rain. Tomorrow, when the cold front moves in, it'll be 10 degrees cooler but sunny again. I suppose there's time enough to get into the weeds (literally) then. But I've also got tons of stuff on the agenda for tomorrow and I'm loath to leave the least fun of the activities for Sunday morning. Could this paragraph be more boring?

So let's move on to something endlessly interesting: new clothing. I've had a bit of a shopping moment lately (in addition to sewing and knitting moment). Truly, I'm in a stage of renewed interest in being chic, updating my style choices and going for something novel. Can't say my bank account is thrilled but in the spirit of that Marie Kondo book (which I did not read so don't take me to task if I'm misconstruing), I'm going with the things that thrill me. I do wish I'd beat her to the punch and written a best seller about going for the things that thrill you (and getting rid of the other stuff) cuz I've been doing it forever.

For starters - DO NOT go to Club Monaco if you don't want to have to put down 60 things you love (and which would look fantastic on you) because they happen to cost 795 bucks each. I hate how they've raised the prices by 100% over the past 5 years, but I cannot quibble with the quality, fashion-forward nature or deliciousness of Club Monaco goods.

I've always been experimental with pants. I was wearing the harem pants 2 years before anyone found them tolerable (again). I led the skinny-charge. Cropped jersey pants, check. Culottes (I did that sewing series). Gauchos (yeah, they're diff than culottes), I've done those too. Sexy sweatpants - a fave. Oh, and lets not forget Danskin body suits (that's what I wore to yoga in the 80s, before yoga pants were freakin' invented). Y'all know I was first on the scene when they started small-batch producing that new style of "lounge and fitness wear". Point is, I don't eschew the new styles and I'm glad of that - because pants are fun (especially if your challenging fit area is tops).

So I've been watching the cropped tapered tulip pant with interest. And yesterday, at CM, I found a pair that may be a very useful wardrobe addition:

Odiel Wrap Pant

What you can't really see is the wrap front (thanks black fabric) which is quite sassy. The fabric is a very strange, slinky, slightly stretchy viscose (3% elastane). It's got excellent drape and I cannot be unhappy about the elastic waistband because a) so comfortable and b) it doesn't appear to be a fashion faux-pas anymore.

One of my new style directions is to be a bit less "fitted everything" and a bit more industrial "Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" - but the luxe version and without the tattoo. I used to feel that would be a terrible waste of my god-given curves - and I don't regret maximizing those for a quarter century - but it's not like I'm at my most knowable shape ever (trust me, if you can't see it it's because I'm masterful at bamboozling!) and I'd rather maximize great fashion - well-applied - than continue to work a look I did better in another time and place. Note: I'm not suggesting that I won't return happily to highly fitted looks on a regular basis, but I want to have equally chic options.

I am entirely committed to feeling and being as gorgeous in my 40s as I was in the other decades. It's a gift and responsibility to myself (to sound totally therapy-plus) - and let's face it, it's stupid to be otherwise.

In case you feel like I'm taking the boxy look too seriously, here's the other item I got at CM:

Club Monaco Wylda Top

One of the reasons I bought this (and it looks really good with the boobs) is because I intend to copy it in the future, with some of my new-found bamboo jersey.

But where I did the real damage made the most novel impression was at Marshall's?! I'm not a lover of Winners (my only discount store of choice is Loehmann's - the one in West Palm Beach). But I gave it a go, on a whim when I found myself in the building. Lord - the shoes!

I found Ash wedge boots (a polarizing choice, if all of the peeps I've shown them to are anything to go by). I can't find a stock photo of the ones I purchased but they're not dissimilar to these except that mine are tougher looking - and more streamlined - because they're black leather from top to toe (including the sole). Mine have the same basic lines, though (and velcro!) and this brown pair shoes off the details well:

Ash Wedge Ankle Boots

Ash is a Dutch brand and those people know the shoes. Let's just say that the brand does not design for sunny car culture which is why these will serve me well through much of the winter. Mine are real (if not fine) shearling. While they're technically heels, I find wedges are walkable in moderation (i.e. one way to work rather than there and back).

Finally, I spent a lot of money to get the deal of the century (ain't it always the way?). I found one lone pair of these Stuart Weitzman 50-50 knee-high boots in olive suede. Amazingly they were in my size, though I didn't bother to look before trying them on. They're lined in leather:

Stuart Weitzman 5050 Suede Olive

These are spectacular because the calf (back portion of the boot) is stretch fabric so the hug one's calves and ankles perfectly - a rare feat when one has skinny calves and ankles. And when the universe sends you hella sexy flat-fucking-boots, you buy them.

Let me save you the trouble of looking up the absurd price on Nordstrom. They cost 900 bucks in Canada, before tax. I got them for 300 bucks, before tax. Yeah, that's pricey, but even in the States these cost 2 and a half times that amount USD. I'm viewing this as kismet because they go perfectly with all kinds of fall skirts and dresses. And they're hot (do not let the photo deceive you).

So, that's where I'm at this September. Curious to know if you're in the midst of a change in style (or fashion). Whatcha think of my new pretties? Let's talk.

I Don't Know if this Counts as Doing Something

This weather is turning me into a crazy-person. It's so fantastic that I feel like I'm actually on holiday - like somewhere fantastic - and it's bringing out my spend-instinct.

Having said that, I do love the spend-instinct - especially in others. Last night, out at my friend Hilly's for dinner, she had so much fun looking at my new loot and listening to my shopping exploits, I wanted to charge her a little fee :-) She told me the fee was dinner, and to get the cheese plate from the dining room table.

I decided to go out mid-aft, just to look around in the shops and to people-watch. My, was the watching good. There were chic ladies in embroidered caftans (like we live in Palm Beach), trophy ladies in bandage dresses (like we live in Miami Beach), young ladies in bikini tops (um, seriously? like we live in freakin' South Beach?). It's so bizarre when the weather warms up here. People lose all sense of proportion. And by that, I do mean that most of those outfits were too small.

I felt so dull wearing jeans, a stripey top and and a black waterfall sweater. Sure, I was over-dressed for the heat (I was going to be out well into the night so I needed to plan for the temp drop), but I default to outfits for October. Note: I did wear my orange bag and my Arche sandals (purchased in Eur last summer) and, by nightfall, I looked entirely adequately mid-May. Other Note: I realize that those sandals are hideous in that photo (see link above), but on one's foot, they transform. I swear! Plus, it's like walking on a cloud.

Anyhow, can you blame me for feeling drawn towards Anthropologie? That place is like summer in 5000 square feet. Every time I ask someone at work where she got her new, cute item X, and she replies "Anthro",  I'm intrigued. But I never purchase at this shop. It's too boho for me. The set up is too crowded (so a lot of cute items aren't readily visible). It's also, dare I say it, it's a bit "young". I mean, how many shoulder buttons and sleeve ruffles can a girl wear to the office?

Mind you, the shopping goddess was on my side yesterday. Also, I was in it for the crazy so I tried on everything in the store. May I just reiterate, this place would be much better if it took a minimalist approach. Garments inevitably look crappy when there's no white space.

I got these pants (which cost more in Canada):

They're so NOT me. But I'm getting sick and tired of what is me. (You know how that happens...) So I'm branching out.

I also got this top, which totally is me:

I bought it in black, because almost-white grey makes me look dead. But this colour shows off the beautiful line and drape of the garment.

Then I ambled over to the Gap - cuz who doesn't want to mingle with the entire universe, frenzied by the chance of half-price shorts, all at once? Note to People: They're cheap to begin with. Don't smack into me like it's Filene's basement on Boxing Day!

I found this dress, on sale for 30 bucks??:

Weirdly, I'm drawn to black right now - a shade that rarely impresses me. What does impress me about this dress - and frankly it looks better on me than on the gorgeous lady above - is that it highlights all of my slender toned bits (neck, shoulders, arms, legs) and you cannot begin to guess the state of my lower abdomen. Or whether I've eaten BBQ in the last 2 hours. Plus dessert. It also looks great with skinny jeans underneath - a look we have more use for in Canada, than that depicted above, at least for 9 months of the year. Also, in case you're thinking - wow, that's short! - that woman is approximately 8 inches taller than me. But it is a short-ish dress. Show off your legs, ladies, that's what I say. One other thing, in case you're interested in buying it online, the sleeves are quite snug. I bought a small, after trying an XS. The two sizes fit the same in the body (hello sack!) but the arms were notably snug in the shoulders and arms in the XS.

When I took it out of the bag to show Hil, she was momentarily horrified and could not believe that there might be a chance in hell that it would look anything other than horrid. (I will warn you that it looks ridiculously bad on a hanger. Those are the things I secretly enjoy trying on. There's so much potential for excitement.) But I put it on and she was shocked - in that way I love to shock people - and agreed that's a perfect basic.

I followed this up with a cocktail at the Holt Renfrew restaurant. I do love sitting at the bar and chatting with the peeps. I had this hilarious-named fresh juice called Holt's Happiness, which is marketed to rejuvenate and "youthen" the drinker, what with its composition of beet juice, acai, grapefruit etc. Naturally, I directed them to booze it up; with a bit of vodka and Cava it was a delight! I felt both youthened and aged at the same time! Gotta love a neutral.

After a bit more window shopping, I picked up some double-cream blue cheese, hopped on the subway and went to Hil's. And what a beautiful evening it was.

A Few Good Deals

It's been a while since I've gone shopping (at least in stores). I've needed a few basics; the ones in my wardrobe are tired and I don't have much time to sew right now. So I decided to take a Friday lunch (rare treat) to hit up Winners (Cdn version of Marshall's).

I'm not usually as lucky as I was this time around. Must have arrived along with new stock and I could easily have continued my excursion, to good effect, if time hadn't precluded it.

I got this adorable jersey top, which feels very luxe and fits perfectly in the shoulders. And it's animal print. Need I say more? What I particularly like about it is the (hard to see) collar knot. It's also drapey and not fitted below the bust. Totally strange line for me. But flattering, for all that. And these days I'm disinclined to highlight my midsection...

Not bad for 25 bucks.

This T shirt was, like, 15 bucks and, sadly, it's nicer fabric than anything I've ever been able to purchase in our garment district, or online - and many of those yardages cost more than this completed top. The periwinkle is totally cheerful and, again, flattering. The shoulders are another perfect fit. You know they say if it doesn't fit in the shoulders, walk on. Can't tell you how much I subscribe to this philosophy. If those seams are falling toward the arms (or are too snug and pulling towards the neck), the outcome is just shoddy seeming.

I'm amazed to have found this large, rectangular scarf (really substantial) for $30.00. The pattern is beautiful - interesting without being loud - and it feels terrific. It's an excellent evening scarf for spring and summer, cuz it does cool down here after dinner.

These jeans are the exciting purchase. They're 3x1 and they'd have been 250USD had I got them in the actual NYC store. I do like that they were made in the US (nice to see a bit of manufacturing persists in the first world), hence the list price. I got them for 80.00.

The wash is awesome. There's a ton of stretch in these and they are quite snug, but so comfortable with the amount of natural give.

Best of all - they are truly high-waisted. None of this mid-rise stupidity masquerading as high. It's delightful to feel contained by jeans and not as if they're sliding away from one's muffiny parts.

You know that I wear jeans, like, constantly. I chic them up with good accessories, cute shoes (at work, anyway) and high-quality knits.

This over-exposed shot shows the imperfect placement of the pockets. You can't see it when these jeans are on. I mean, you'd have to stare at my ass for 5 minutes while I pointed it out, but I do find it interesting that they charge 250 bucks for workmanship I'd be dissatisfied to have produced myself.

Given how this denim fits, I'm willing to overlook it.

I also got a black waterfall cardigan - my others are really long in the tooth. It too fits perfectly in the shoulders. It's terrific in terms of the amount of fabric that falls over the full-bust and really interestingly knit (there's a sort of peacock or fan pattern on the back torso panel). Alas, black cardigans photo like shit, so I've opted to leave that one out.

All in, I spent $215.00 including tax. On the one hand, it's disturbing that I can buy so many things at such a low cost. If there's one thing I've learned over the past few months (well, I've been learning it for years), it's that quality costs. If you're going to pay people, presumably you have to charge. That's what the US-made jeans corroborate. On the other hand, I managed to score some very wearable, and useful basics at a price I can get with. And really, how is this any different from buying anything at the Gap or Banana Republic.

What's your take on this? Exploitative or smart shopping? Let's talk.

Bras in the Time of Pain Management

This post has a little something for everyone (well, except for pain-free guys who don't like shopping). If you're into bras, we've got it. Like to purchase vicariously? Check! Have you been dealing with some pain? I sure as hell hope not but, if yes, there is definitely some useful intel below.

For starters, I don't think one needs to worry much that very snug bra bands will cause chronic pain (particularly if the cups of the bra fit well). And, as I've said 8000 times, for proportionately large, heavy breasts a taut band is the secret to "lift" that those with less large and/or heavy breasts need not concern themselves about. Mind you, if you're in pain (for whatever reason, but especially if it's musculoskeletal or neurochemically motivated) and that pain happens to live in your mid/upper back, the likelihood is that a taut band is going to torment you and, sadly, exacerbate the underlying issues.

I can't tell you how much this pisses me off. Especially since I have 4 drawers of bras in 30 and 32 bands that I simply cannot wear at the moment.

One thing's for certain, though, you may feel like shit but you can still look fantastic and, take it from me, it's important to care about looking fantastic until you're cold in the grave. It's what sets us apart from the animals.

After 2 weeks of wearing an ugly bralet to work, I felt so demoralized I could barely stand it. Happily, the problem was resolved, via online and in store methods, just yesterday. But before we check out the loot, let's talk about the plan...

Kristin's Guide To Buying Bras When You're Managing Pain Exacerbated By Wearing Bras:

• Know when it's time to bite the bullet. If you keep waiting for the problem to resolve so that you don't have to spend money on bras that you hope won't be required for very long, you're going to suffer for longer than you have to. You might even find yourself wearing a bralet to work.

• Shop locally. I know I'm big-time down with the online bra shopping - though I have resorted to an online purchase in this instance - but, unless you are seriously competent in the ways of buying bras online, you gotta manage this in a boutique. The secret to ensuring that you'll end up with a bra that works is to try on 8000 of them, of all styles and brands - and in numerous sizes within each style. This isn't workable online. Yeah, it's going to cost more.

• Make sure you understand your pain and where it originates from (to the very best of your ability) before you go shopping. Is it neuro-muscular (and this shit's a bitch that likes to hide)? Are you managing an acute injury that isn't healing quickly? Did you just have an operation? Are you in treatment for breast cancer? If you're pain is referring on account of wires, you need to go wire free (if at all possible). If it's worsened by pressure on straps, you've got to find some wider straps. Meditate on the issue - and I know that's not difficult when all you can think about is the pain you don't want to think about.

• Be prepared to spend. You're in pain. Buy the bra that works, even if it's out of the budget. Your very being will thank you. And the comfortable bra will pay for itself many times over.

• Be upfront with the SA about what's going on. Explain your issue clearly. Ask to work with someone who's knowledgeable in this arena. Don't be afraid to say: No, this one doesn't feel right either. I went into the store with the following objective, which I expressed immediately: I need an attractive bra that provides support, recognizing that a band that puts any significant pressure on my back ribs is a no go. Though my under bust is 30.5 29.5-30 inches (just remeasured for kicks) in circumference, I'm interested in trying 34 or even 36 bands (if the brand runs very tight in the band).

• Get over your fears (about buying a bra under these circumstances). This is a solution-oriented exercise. If a 36 band is ridiculously loose, you'll move on. If a bra hurts, you'll put it back. Trust me, there's a bra out there that will work for you and that will not worsen your problem.

• Give extra consideration to brands that focus on wide bands (to displace weight) of 3+ hooks and eyes. If a long line works, all the better. Sport bras can also work, but compression can be a problem over the long run and, man, those bras are not pretty. (Nor can you wear anything lower than a crew neck while you're in one.) A brand known for super tight bands (Cleo, anyone?) likely isn't the one for you. Sure, you can go up 2 band sizes - but then the proportions of the cups is likely to go all wonky.  

• Also, remember that the minute the band rides up, the bra doesn't work and it's likely to contribute to pain in the long run. You've got to walk a fine line between a band that holds things in place but that doesn't cinch things. Ordinarily, I espouse that the band size should more or less mimic your under bust size (accounting for things like a very muscular frame). If your under bust is 30.5", you probably want to wear a 30 or 32 band. When back pain is an issue, you might need to go with a +2-3 band (2-3 inches larger than the under bust). That veers dangerously close to the debunked "plus 4 method" but you only need to do this while there's pain.

• Don't go for the skinny straps (they can cause or worsen trigger points). Go with the snuggest band that doesn't worsen pain and then use an extender when you're having a particularly bad day.

I wish I could tell you the best styles for managing your particular pain but, here's the thing, I'm new to this gig (and I'm not intending to be here long!). Furthermore, your pain is as unique as mine and everyone else's. This is a trial and error exercise that requires your sincerest engagement.

Here's what I opted to do: I decided to supplement my regular bra wardrobe with 2 new offerings designed to help when the pain is in flare: a basic (but pretty) beige bra and a basic (but pretty) black bra. Both work well under all outfits. Each is a bra I'm either very familiar with (through years of wear in other sizes) or the brand is one that works well for me. I went for each in a 34 band (which means I had to size down in the cups). I have colour coordinated extenders, which I use, as necessary. These match with any beige or black undies (though I've bought more in both colours) so that I don't have to wear unmatched sets in this challenging time. Unmatched sets are the worst.

Fantasie Smoothing Underwire Balconette (4520)

I so wish I could find a version of this bra that actually fits the model, but this one's a toughie on many figures. It either works or it doesn't. And, happily, it works for me - though the proportions of the 34 back are a bit odd. The wires are trending slightly too wide and there's a bit of rippling in the (molded but soft-cup/unpadded) fabric because it's slightly too full in the upper cup for me in the new size. Mind you, there's lift and separation happening and the lines of this bra are very attractive on me (which is why I've been wearing it as my standard T shirt bra for more than a decade). The 34 band is adequately snug so that there's no riding up (but not in a way that makes the pain worse). Wearing this with an extender is tricky because the proportions are already a bit wide for my narrow frame. I'm not opposed to unhooking it at 3pm when I'm sitting at my desk and no one's around. The straps on this bra are quite comfortable (but they don't look wide) and the under wires are very firm - so they support. Of course, if under bust pain is your issue, you've got to be careful about overly firm wires.

I bought this online, given my longstanding experience of it. It was 50 bucks all in. A bargain, IMO.

Empreinte Melody Full Cup (0786)

Here's the thing about Empreinte bras - the brand is French. Those people don't do full-cups. They do full balconettes and call them a full cup. This is a molded bra (like the Fantasie above) - unlined /unpadded.

Silver lining!: I've always wanted this bra but, in the 32 band, the cups aren't the right shape for me. Remember, molded bras don't have seams (which allow for better fit). So a molded bra either fits or it doesn't. Empreinte changes its wires with every band size and cup size. Because a 32F doesn't have the same wire size and cup proportions as a 34E (the way most brands cut costs and "sister size"), every combination of cup and band size is a new opportunity for the shape to work.

So, in a 34 back, this bra works and, as per most of Empreinte's offerings, it looks fantastic on Kristin. Here's a video that shows it on a real person, fitting pretty well (except for a bit of weirdness on the upper side band which is truly not problematic for the model). It really looks that good.

Empreinte makes angled bands, to ensure best alignment on the back, and as a result, they don't need to be tight in order to be supportive. There are 3 hooks and eyes and, as a design feature, the straps on this style are wide and slightly padded. As always, the wires and gores are narrow but this shape is not as projected as some of the other styles. Molded bras are never as projected as seamed bras, one of the reasons that women with projected breasts either swim in them (in a size too large) or bust out at the upper cups.

The silhouette is lifted and round. No, it's not boobs on a plate (the photo makes that clear) but it is very elegant and sophisticated. This isn't a "youthful" bra but it's not in any way frumpy. It's understated and sexy and it's designed to ensure your comfort (if you're pain-free) or to facilitate comfort when you're working with pain.

This one ain't cheap. It was 200 bucks all in but it's a gem. It isn't easy to spend that amount when one is trying to save money - and given that the goal is to not need to wear it for long. But I'm following my own advice. It's worth that price to feel gorgeous and comfortable at a time when those things are elusive. And even when this pain goes (mercifully we're making strides, peeps, but I can see it's complicated and it's going to take time), I'm well aware that it is likely to recur, at least until menopause.

So, there you go. Whatcha think of these bras? Or my methodology? Or the brands? Or the spree? Let's talk!

All Wrapped Up

While I have no interest in English royalty - nor the dresses certain ladies wear on announcing their engagements - I have to say I'm in the grip of this top:

Banana Republic Issa Collection

In fact, I only bought it by accident - ok, I did understand that I was buying it - having popped into BR to return a recent (and poorly-thought-out) cardigan purchase.

What can I say? It was the day they were putting this collection out onto the floor. The top, might I add, was a wrinkly mess from having shipped flat in a plastic bag. I have no need of a new jersey top that mimics a wrap. It looked a bit long on the hanger. I didn't see it in the petites section and the only size out was a regular medium (almost always too big).

I was walking out. I was not going to stop. I did not have time to try on a shirt. And yet the colour compelled me. Oh Lord, it is gorgeous. Futhermore, it makes my eyes look like big ol' emeralds. And the fit is delightfully small in that the shoulders, in the medium, are perfect - and the top is most definitely cut for a woman with a rack. Finally, with a pencil skirt, it almost looks as if I am wearing a fancy dress (though with jeans, I am a chic urbanite).

I can see why the Duchess likes this brand.

It's taking all of my will not to go back and buy the whole freakin' collection.

Moreover, when I purchased (having been convinced I would not purchase), I did not bring one of the 8000 coupons BR had already sent me that day, offering me 25% off the new collection. Amazingly, I called when I returned to the office, the SA took all the receipt info (and the voucher code) and refunded 20 bucks to my Visa card on the spot?!

This top cost the exact same price (to the penny) as the cardigan I'd just returned.

Look, I can go years without buying something at Banana Republic. It's the Ikea of clothes stores, IMO. But sometimes, they do things very well - at a super-fine pricepoint. This collection is one of them. I highly recommend you check it out. (And make sure to bring your coupon.)

This Is Like Six Posts In One, But You Should Read It Anyway

Yesterday was one of those utterly excellent days, including: caffeine, booze, dessert, friends, lingerie and shopping. That's like 6 of the top 10 great things in the world. :-)

N and I started our day of "bra rejuvenation" at the Holt's Cafe, eschewing actual food for treats and wine.  This was ostensibly to purchase lingerie for her, not me, but fret not - of course I bought stuff. I am, after all, me.

(Side note: I am over the edge with the food and drink these days. Partly, it's a component of my spiral of "life affirmation". Partly, I'm freakin' depressed by this winter and these substances are effective mood improvers. Partly, I really just like food and alcohol, under any circumstances. After this fall, I will never begrudge my feisty appetite again, but I will have to live with its impacts. Fucking consequences.)

OK, having experienced the food-service luxury of the wealthy-lady set, we moved onto the lingerie department which, frankly, was not as good as usual. 

(Other side note: N is a very easy person when it comes to bra-shopping. You might even say she was blessed by the lingerie goddess at birth. She has a straight frame with "balanced", small breasts, neither full at the top nor at the bottom, which are very symmetrical and impervious to gravity. Obvs, not everything we tried worked. But, in truth, she had MUCH choice.)

Can't tell you how much I love bra-fitting. It's so enjoyable, so brain-taxing. Who doesn't thrill at improved wardrobe and enhanced self-esteem? 

I realize how much I've learned, in the last two years, about bra fitting for women with all types of bust shapes and sizes. Some ways in which I approached this differently than I would have a couple of years ago:

• I now know that women with less body fat on their torsos often need slightly looser bra bands than the same size as rib cage, give or take +1 (or else they're apt to be in pain, rather than slight discomfort, when stretching in that new band).

• I recognize that the need for a longer band is also related to the relative ratio of band vs cup in a woman with small breasts. Think about it. When your breasts are smaller, they sit more centred (in general) on your chest. The span of band this shape of woman needs, to go from the under wire edge to the bra clasp at the centre back, is apt to be longer than that of a woman whose breast tissue is more voluminous, requiring wider wires which end closer to the side of the torso. 

• I've learned that wire width is especially important on women with small breasts as they often have a wider breast root.

• I've learned about how top fullness and bottom fullness impact the fit of a given style of bra on a given wearer.

Allow me digress and tell you a whole other story. BTW, if you like photos and you can't wait, scroll to see my loot but please do come back to hear the tale.

Of course I bought things. How am I expected to spend 4 hours around silky smalls without caving?

(And, sort of on that topic, I have a lovely English friend who has saved my butt on the shipping charge front on a couple of occasions recently. To wit: I have another Lola set in Confetti colour, winging its way to me. It was purchased for less than half the outrageous price that the set would have cost me here. You'll recall that Empreinte does not allow EU online vendors to ship to North America so my friend has really done me a great favour.) 

The upshot is that, in the last month I've spent a fuck of a lot of money on new lingerie, but my body has gone through change this year (encroaching middle age, weight fluctuation due to illness) and I need some new product. OK, there is actually no planet on which I can't manage with what I currently own, but life is short and I get so much pleasure from undergarments that I don't see why I should deny myself. Except for the need to preserve some economic common sense. Which has never been my strong suit. Let's move on...)

I thoroughly recommend the Bra Bar in Yorkville for an elegant and potentially affordable experience. It sells many of the same bras for somewhat less that the place I won't name, but the brands it sells are not inexpensive. Luba, our SA, was wonderful to recognize that I would be playing the role of fitter-du-jour and, once she realized I know my shit, she kept the gorgeous bras and undies coming. Let me say, she's not warm and fuzzy. She's old-school European. But she was friendly, increasingly so as our visit wore on, and I suspect she knows what she's doing on the fitting front.

So here's where it gets interesting... 

I asked her what she had in Freya and it appears this place doesn't go through that brand quickly. (Bra Bar appeals to a more "french, sexy and rich" aesthetic vs. Freya's "young, adventuresome and sassy" one. Yorkville's market is most definitely geared towards the former.) I was able to find a few "old Freya styles" in my "old Freya size" and, man, the fit was spot on. The lift was incomparable. The wires firm. The fabric architecturally sound. It was just like the old days. So I simply couldn't leave empty handed. Rule one of bra shopping: When the bra goddess smiles upon you, buy it all. You never know when a trough is coming. 

Sensing I've just emerged from a trough, I purchased the 2010 Summer Fiesta and matching thong - an exuberant floral, perfect for spring:

Photo from here...

I also purchased some very excellent merch from Gap Body, of all places. Really, for black and beige undies, you can't beat them. I actually think the quality of lace that Gap's used lately is the best ever. Where else can you get good-quality lace for 10 bucks a pair (once you get the deal and the discount, as there's always one to choose from)? I also got 2 body suits which will work perfectly as smoothing slips under dresses and tops but which act primarily as simply, slender, slip-weight camisoles made in a silky fabric over which everything will skim. What I love about these (and N kindly bought me one in black, so now I have one in both neutral shades) is how simple, well-made and retro-styled they are. The bottoms are cut to sit under one's derriere and the front leg is straight across (vs. high at the hip). There's a centre back seam and a little button (for show) at the top of that back seam. It's vaguely like a girdle, but in the skimmiest fabric. Not industrial by any stretch, but not frilly.

Here are some gratuitous pics:

 

I can't begin to tell you about the great things we bought for N, though I can say - having purchased quite a bit of basic lingerie (seam free, in some instances, but not firm-molded) from the Gap lately, given that the line works well for my daughter too - if you're truly within the range of a 32 - 34 A - D, the offerings are very sweet, structurally sound and very nicely fitting. Plus, they're affordable. Please note, however, if you're simultaneously above a 36 band and a B cup, I suspect you're going to walk out in a bra that doesn't provide adequate support unless you get lucky or you're very young. What I mean is, this brand's 38DD bras are almost certainly not a good choice. (Note: I can only say this from looking at the construction and touching them. I haven't seen one on.)

Here are a couple of the fab things for ladies in the 32 C range:

Gap Body Flocked Dot Wireless Bra

Simone Perele Pompadour in Lilac

So, today's questions:

• What do you think of Simone Perele and Gap Body, if you happen to be in the 30-34 A-D?
• What do you think of the Freya situation? Weird, huh?
• Do you buy Gap undies and, if yes, do you think the materials have improved lately? 

Let's talk!   

Food for the Sole

It's amazing what you can blame on the lack of light, for example, my newest purchase:

Liuba Boot by Lamica (never heard of this brand but I think it's German, though the boots are made in Italy). There's not much about the company online. I got mine at Browns

In truth, I have been wanting to get a new pair of boots - not "winter-weight", but chic and leather - for as long as I can remember. For years I've rotated through pairs of the ubiquitous Franco Sarto Scala stretch boot. Those don't last more than 2 years but they're compatible with just about any outfit and, cuz they're not leather (though designed to look like it), they're durable in most weather (though not snow). Note: The Scalas are not as shiny as that link photo would have you believe, but definitely get them in brown rather than black (to minimize the fakeness).

Here's the thing. Fake leather is not my bag, but I have exceedingly narrow calves. Lots of peeps will tell you about the misery of not being able to buy boots because their calves are so prominent or thick but it's just as hard (in terms of shopping for knee-high boots that look good) for the skinny-calved among us. Look, I'm not saying that slender calves are harder in general, just in terms of finding well-fitted knee boots. And every pair I've ever found that's fit (and that's about 5 over the last 10 years, not that I bother much) has cost a living fortune.

Because the Sartos work so adequately (though I'm paying $200 bucks for fake leather aka practically plastic), I've been lulled into a state of inertia.  They really do fit my calf perfectly and they fall nicely. However, the Scala really doesn't jibe with my "buy quality" philosophy. Don't misunderstand, the boot is fine (till the surface eventually scratches off on the inner ankle and you can actually see fabric underneath???), fine enough that I've owned many pairs.

A knee boot with beautiful slouch is a non-negotiable staple, from my perspective. It reminds me of the terrific offerings of the late 60s and 70s. My mother had a pair and I thought they were so elegant. A slouchy knee-boot goes perfectly with short skirts, long skirts, jeans (wide or narrow), pants of all stripes. I mean, in a zillion years I wouldn't wear fake fur. So why I'm wearing plastic at the age of 42 is beyond me.

Today I went to Browns, which is having a fairly good sale (esp. for pre-Xmas), to rectify the situation. I knew I wouldn't get off cheap, but I hoped I'd at least find something that would fit for less than the usual $600. (Sidebar: Why there's a proportional relationship between narrow boot shafts and expense is beyond me. I mean, shouldn't the wider shafts, which require more leather, be the ones to cost more??)

The Liuma called to me. The colour is fantastic. It's the shade of brandy, seriously, and the photos above don't do it justice. Furthermore, while they could be narrower (the very widest part of my calf has a circumference of 13.5"), there's no visible gap between my leg and the boot. (Can't tell you what a hideous look that is, IMO.) And the leather is a supple, Italian calfskin that, I sense, will crease and wear beautifully. Sure, this purchase wasn't cheap (after tax they came to $340 on sale), but I wear the Sartos, on average, 4 days a week for 8 months of the year and every time I put them on I regret that I'm wearing plastic.

What you can't see in the photos, and the ones I found online don't really show this off to good effect, is that there's a cognac leather insert that runs up the back on either side of the seam (above the ankle), that both defines the shape of the ankle and provides a rich design element.

So, today's questions are these: Do you like my new boots?? (Leading question, I realize...) Do you struggle with this shape of boot either because your calves are thinner or thicker than average? Have you heard of this brand and can you enlighten me about its origins? Have you worn the Sartos and, if yes, what are your thoughts about them? Let's talk...

Something I've Been Doing

What do you do when you don't have energy to blog, sew or knit? Well (duh), if you're me, you shop.

Can't say that's excellent for the cost saving, but I've bought so little in the last year, I'm indulging that druggy comfortable feeling that comes with the activity.

Thing is, I can't show you internet photos of my gorgeous new McCardell-esque, navy sleeveless shirt dress - fitted in the waist, button-down, circle-skirted in a kind of mystery fabric (cotton and elastane) that works like mega-crisp, sticky-outy lawn, cuz the people who run the substandard Club Monaco website post about 20 items a season (nothing on Google Images either...). And there's just no way I'm motivated to stage a photo till this weekend at the earliest.

Then there are my fantastic new shoes by Sweet de Pindiere, which I also can't show you because that site sucks too. Not to mention that it took me a full hour even to locate the site in the first place, never mind finding a shot of my new, conical-low-heeled taupe sandles with mother of pearl disks covering the centre strap. They are very rich, and perfect with the dress.

Furthermore, I purchased a belt at Cole Haan that looks more like this than any of the others I could find on that site:

...only mine's black. Kinda misleading and boring (esp. as you can't even see the real thing - thanks, website) but my other black leather skinny lady belt was literally falling apart after 12 years.

I realize I could take all the shots with my nice camera all by myself. But is it so wrong to feel ripped off that the web isn't supporting me in my marketing efforts?

The belt was on sale for $40.00 (from $79.00). Given that belts seem to last 12 years, this is a pretty good cost per wear scenario, not to mention that the Bloor Street (Canadian) flagship is a very elegant store - as much a lady-shopping experience as anything else.

The shoes, bought in the 'hood at Balisi after Friday night dinner, were 20% off and came in under $125.00.

Where I (vaguely) went off the rails - at least by my own "make it yourself or, for God's sake, buy it on mega-sale" standard - was on the dress purchase. I bought that puppy for full price - $200.00 - which is somewhat out of my high-street comfort zone (esp. since, were I to wait 6 weeks, it's very possible that the price will drop). However, in 6 weeks, it won't have much wear-time left before the fall - and it's such a great piece (truly well-tailored) that I'm pretty sure - and I rarely make such predictions - it isn't going to make it to the sale rack.

Does it really matter that I need another summer dress like a hole in the head?

This is a Post About Denim Leggings

If you don't want to buy stuff, may I suggest you don't go shopping?

I've done insanely "well" for more than 3 months - not buying any new clothing. Tuesday I had a wardrobe malfunction and had to replace (and on-the-spot toss) a pair of trouser jeans that was literally falling apart (ok).

Today, I went shopping for my husband. Yeah, he hasn't bought himself an item of clothing in 15 years. It's all good. He wears everything I buy and I have great taste. Between the 2 of us, he's rocking a mid-40's hot guy thing.

I go out for him once or twice a year. It's been a year now, I'm sure because just about everything in his closet needs to be, um, retired. I found myself with 45 minutes to kill after work and decided to fill in the basics.

All was well until I quickly "nipped" into Club Monaco. I thought I was over that place but apparently I'm like a recovering ice cream-aholic. (Wait, I am a recovering ice cream-aholic.)

I thought I could check out some pants and be done with it.

Long story short, I am the new owner of my second pair of denim leggings. Please don't call them deggings or jeggings or leans or anything else. I wish I could show you a photo but the Club Monaco people are so cheap with those.

Said pants zip and button on the side. They are entirely flat front and without embellishment or pockets on the ass. They're actually practically fitted capris a la 1950. But full length and dark-wash indigo.

They are very flattering but not vanity sized - alas - and not cheap. 140 bucks later I exited the shop with an item which, essentially, I already own.

So why did I buy them?

Well, I wanted them. I know I'll wear them into the ground (much as I'm doing with the first pair, my Guido and Mary's). Oh, and I have a thing for denim. Some may call it a problem - but jeans are like shoes to me. Only I have many fewer pairs of jeans than your average shoe addict has shoes.

I wear jeans 3 - 5 x per week. That's kind of a lot. I dress them up and down. I express my inner bad ass, my demure American preppy. People tell me I look good in them.

I know I look good in them.

This isn't an item I can sew (yet). Sewing has taken a back seat the last couple of weeks (not in my mind but in application) because I've been so busy dealing with all the things I have to deal with. I guess I feel the lack of new textiles. I do love the feel of clothing. The joy of something that is new to me and flattering and fun.

So that's my rationale.

This isn't a post where I justify my purchasing in light of my no-fritter challenge. I justified it to myself, on the spot, when I made the choice to buy. I mention this because I don't intend to be one of those non-shoppers who goes guilty when she buys. It's not my way.

When I show them off with my new, handmade jacket (I know, you've totally lost faith that you'll ever see a photo of that sucker), just don't want you wondering how they came to be.

But I do intend to continue on my no-shopping path till June. So I guess it's out of the stores for me. Good to know.

The Shopping Strategy

What makes shopping valid?

I've spent a lot of time considering this lately - well, for years actually - but even moreso recently because a) I have every item of clothing I could ever need to put together attractive and functional outfits each day, b) because the better I get at sewing, the less I feel like purchasing a finished product. I want to create it! and c) because there's a lot of waste in this world that I don't want to contribute to. The money I don't spend on clothes I don't need or that I could make, is money I can apply to other endeavours. Eating, for example.

Here's what happens to me everytime I decide to leave the fashion shopping alone for a while:

• I discover a great new boutique.
• One of my fave stores opens a warehouse sale location.
• One of my fave stores has the sale of the century.
• An item I cannot live without jumps into view.
• Every fucking thing looks great on me.

I know, it makes you want to cry for me.

In light of this - and btw it started happening as soon as I decided merely to consider not shopping for the next couple of months - I have had to determine my core, legitimate justifications for purchasing new clothing in general.

Thing is, it's not good enough to say "I'll get a lot of use out of it". I'm a pretty experienced, dare I say talented, purchaser of clothing. I use everything I wear because I don't have so much of it that I can't get through it all - and because I don't buy things unless they are practical and desirable enough for me to wear them constantly.

Nor is it ok to say "It's on mega-sale". Yeah, a good deal is thrilling, but I'm starting to feel so awful about the cheapness of labour and how I contribute to the cycle (keep in mind, I am my own sweatshop lately). I just can't go there with abandon any longer.

The notion that I cannot live without something, so awesome is it and perfect on me, is a compelling one. Of course, it's one I wouldn't have so many opportunities to exploit if I weren't a stealth browser. But one could have umpteen such things, were she to find herself in a lucky patch, and at some point it's just more of the same.

So here's what I've decided - and this is for purchases after March 31 or whenever I decide I want to buy something next (see how I'm emotionally leaving my options open). I will not buy unless:

• It's totally useful.
• It fits very well.
• I love it to bits.
• The price is right i.e. I can afford it comfortably, whether or not it is on sale.

What's your take on things? I mean, we who read the fashion blogs are peeps who tend to love all elements of shopping as, if nothing else, a means to an end. There's the hunt, the feel, the kill, wearing, taking photos, collecting and the list goes on.

Do you feel controlled by your impulse to shop? Do you have new or standard systems in place to keep you confident that what you purchase is right for you and your lifestyle? Do tell.