For those of you who like the Cashmerette design aesthetic (and I do - I mean, I've bought all of the patterns and I love that Washington Dress) but who may be smaller than the size range, here are a few of my considerations to date:
- The vertical dimensions are pretty much aligned with mine - at the short waist, high hip, neckline - except for the armscye. This is quite a bit longer than what I require so I'm going to have to do a bit of pattern surgery. It's obvs designed for someone who's got a long, high-bust span (in addition to a full bust). I can see the appeal of this drafting - the bust will fit a wider array of sizes and shapes (even within each bust size category) because it finds some ease above the full bust which can be utilized in addition to the width provided. But if I've interpreted this correctly, it's quite unsuited to a short, curvy (i.e. proportionately large-busted) person who's not plus-sized. Especially one with high-set breasts, having short roots, and a really short shoulder height. BTW, I personally hate the term plus-sized. What are other people? Minus-sized? Is anyone really any size when one takes all dimensions into account. I'm "plus-sized" in the full bust but super small in the shoulders. Where does this leave me?? And, just to make things even more complicated, I don't much like the term curvy because it's equally meaningless.
- The horizontal dimensions are interesting. As you know I'm looking at making the medium length size 12 in a C/D (smallest provided) but my current sloper (self-drafted) fits well inside the 12 at all points. While I know my sloper is more fitted than I'd like, at the moment, I do feel that making the pattern, as is, will yield a finished item that's just too roomy. And, natch, how can I make any pattern - even a simple t shirt - without changing everything. That would be too easy. I'm still considering my options but I think I'm likely to split the difference between my pattern and the Concord dimensions. I may keep the Concord bust ease (just to see how that works out when paired with more waist and hip skim) but I'm going to have to remove an inch and a half or so of circumference in the waist and about 3-4 inches in the hips. I want skim but I don't want loose and this pattern is drafted for a woman with proportionately wide hips.
- I'm going to have to narrow the arm circumference substantially (haven't measured but maybe by 3-4 inches overall). This isn't so surprising. I often have to narrow arm circumference even on patterns that are skimpy with ease. I have compact arms and small bones.
Admittedly, I haven't made this yet so I have no idea if it will be love or disaster but, already, I think that Jenny should consider tapping into the large-busted, hour-glass-meets-apple petite person. I think it would be a fairly easy jump from her current drafting-model and she'd really increase her market-share with one or two smaller sizes than she currently provides. Note: I'm not suggesting that she cater to everyone! Also, I sense my issue with the design may be that this pattern line drafts for robust skeletal frames, not simply additional padding, hence my potential arm width and upper bust height challenges with the original pattern.
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I'm surprised you are using the C/D cup, and I'm curious how it turns out! I sometimes use C/D on Cashmerette patterns, but just as often go for E/F for a better fit at the armscye. My thought on the arm measurements is that a full bicep adjustment is something a lot of larger women need to do - I think because when the arm is compressed at the side of the body, the tissue spreads out and is relatively larger than a smaller woman's arm. Fat tissue spreads more easily than muscle tissue - according to the one plus size fitting Craftsy class I've taken, at least!
ReplyDeleteHave you decided what fabric you are using? That will affect fit a lot!
Oh, that's fascinating about the arm dimensions - I never thought about that but it makes perfect sense! I have fairly toned arms (I do a lot of freakin' chaturanga dandasana) so maybe between tone and small skeleton, that's why I end up making most sleeves narrower...
DeleteI was all prepared to do the E/F but seriously, my sloper was well in the lines. I may end up making things different next time out, but for starters I don't want to go very different. Also, I had to narrow the back neck considerably (that was quite an alteration that I kind of winged by moving the armscye towards the centre back. Lord knows if that's even an alteration technique.) And I did raise the armscye by shortening the curve. I'm going to take a photo of my sloper next to my modified Concord. It's really interesting. The line of the Concord is so much softer. I'm intrigued.
I'm going to repurpose the fabric from a dress I made (did I blog about it?!) in that electric blue bamboo. It's a gorgeous colour and the dress looks awful - it didn't start out good and now it's too small in the waist. I might as well get some use out of that hideously expensive fabric! It does have tremendous drape. Also, that fabric in a dress is seriously bright. I look a bit like a peacock head-to-toe. I think this is a good experiment.
I gave the back neckline so much side-eye when I first saw it - I generally think a straight back neckline is the worst sign of amateur drafting. Oddly, it does work for me! I'm much broader through the shoulder then you though!
DeleteI think the neck could work now that I"ve narrowed it. We'll know soon enough...
DeleteAlso - sew the wrap dress already! You are going to love it. I just made another one, to be blogged soon...
ReplyDeleteLook - I bought all the patterns and I intend to make them all - the designs are so chic and easy to wear. Next up is either the wrap or the Washington. I love that wacky yoke on the Washington.
DeleteThat yoke truly is wacky. I have not figured out quite how I would rock that look - but i trust that you can make it work!
DeleteIt could be bad. I mean, I don't know how it's working, but it's really chic on those models.
DeleteHmmm... This should be interesting. I have a larger frame, but not a lot of padding ( I always thought big boned was a euphemism, but I was in a drug trial that wanted it measured. It was interesting how much variation there was between women of a similar weight). I'm going to try sew it up pretty much as is, but use 1/2 or 5/8 seam allowances. If it doesn't work out, I guess I can go back to fiddling with the SBCC Tonic Tee I have traced out...
ReplyDeleteIt's amazing that 2 women can be exactly the same weight and look entirely different in every way. I say, give it a go as is and if you need to change it, it probably won't be too difficult to do.
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