Saturday, June 15, 2013

Updated (Again): The Summer Series: Yeah, I'm Gonna Make Another Bra

Since I seem to be all on about bras, let me tell you how I'm approaching the Cherry Bomb (bra and undies set), the second sewing bracket of the Summer Series. (The first bracket, The Five in Five, is now complete.)

You may recall that this is the kit I'll use to make the set - or just the bra if I cannot perfect the fit. I don't wear unmatched undies:


I intend to make a modified version (info to follow) of this pattern. Interestingly, it's from the same vendor from whom I purchased the kit (though I've had the bra pattern for a long while).

I've made the bra before. It was a fit failure. Every bra I've ever made has been a fit failure for the following reasons (women of fuller bust, who want to make their own lingerie, take heed):
  • The materials were inferior - specifically the wires but really many of the materials are not up to the same standards as high-quality RTW bra materials. Materials available for home use tend to have too much stretch and are not designed, necessarily, to work together in the same bra.
  • My sewing skills may have been lacking - I say "may" because I've made many bras at many stages of sewing ability and I don't think that this is the case in recent bra-making. Sewing bras is not difficult, but it's finicky. It requires patience and a steady stitch. The ability of one's machine to sew through many layers equally well is pivotal.
  • I've been making bras designed for a bust of a different shape than the one I have. Sure, in the time of my pattern purchasing, I've moved more towards bras that work on a larger, deeper bust, but Ladies, they are far and few between at a certain cup size. Add in the variables provided by material ease and it's a very tricky proposition. There's a good argument to be made that I should draft bras from my own stash (I've actually done this before, and it wasn't successful - not that it wouldn't be in the future). I'd say, till you've made a few bras from a pattern, and you learn the steps / how the seam allowances must be added, it's tricky to make your own pattern. It's very easy to miss a step.
Now, the fact that I've spent the last two years intently interested in a) fit and b) RTW bras in general and c) fit of RTW bras puts me in a very good position to try again. Not that I'm getting hopeful. The variables are endless and there is NOTHING one can ever make that requires perfect fit as much as a bra. Except shoes, maybe.

For purposes of being able to picture this, here's a nice 3-piece, seamed bra:

Y'all know this is my fave bra, the Empreinte Roxane. Honestly, the curve of the side cup where it meets the strap is JUST gorgeous on this style - I may adapt my pattern further if I can ever get it to fit.
Note how the 3 pieces all converge at the nipple height. Specifically the two bottom pieces seam together at a point. The top piece floats above that seam but, of course is seamed at an alternate angle to the under-pieces, connecting on the one side at the band or side cup where it moves up towards the strap, and on the other side at the centre gore. The reason the Roxane is so supportive and able to lift (different than support, peeps) is because the strap attaches to the under cup, which also goes up the side of the breast. It's not merely attaching to the floating top piece.

Alas, on the CUPL16, the strap attaches to the floating upper cup, which will diminish the lift it's able to provide... I will aim to fix this if I ever work out cup depth. One thing at a time... Updated: I couldn't resist making this change in this version - see bullet below ** for more info.

Depending on the construction of a bra and, presumably many other features - some of which I may not be aware of - the best way to add depth is by increasing the amount of fabric where the 2 lower cups adjoin at the centre of the cup unit (aka the full bra cup). If you add the extra fabric to the outer lower cups, where they join the band, you'll just screw with band dimensions and actually find yourself making a shallower bra than that defined by the pattern you started out with. Ask me how I know.

If you increase the length of the top cup - and you're not also aiming to widen the bra / you do not have full on top breasts - you'll get gaping.

With this in mind, here are the many adjustments I've made to this version of CUPL16, may the lingerie goddess be with me:
  • I shortened the gore by 1/2 inch. Now it's at 3.5 inches in height - at the upper limit of height on my frame and given my preferences.
  • I narrowed the gore at the band base by 1 inch and tapered to nothing at the top of the gore. This is a risk, but the original version was so unnaturally wide at the base. It didn't suit my shape and it was clumsy looking. I also sense it leads to a shallower cup shape, though I can't describe how.
  • I stayed with the original back size pattern piece I'd cut for a previous version (80) because the side cup height is good with that band size and I didn't want to have to redraft every piece. Instead, I chopped 2 inches off the back band (1 inch which will apply to each side) and graded the curve towards the closure areas. Depending on how firm I'm able to make the band - Seraphinalina gave me some great Powernet that's very firm so I'm hopeful - I may have to cut more.
  • *I cut half an inch off of the top cup piece at the centre front (to match the amount I shortened the gore) and tapered to 1 inch at the side cup because, really, the top cup was too much bra for me. (See below for an update on this - turns out I didn't stop here...)
You'll note, so far, every adjustment has been to diminish the dimensions of the bra, the original version of which I've already mentioned was too small. Hmmm... To increase the size of this bra to fit me - a woman of very deep breasts that are not wide on a narrow frame aka projectile boobs - adjustment of the lower pieces is necessary.
  • Keeping in mind what I said, above, I increased 1/2 inch on each lower piece where it joins at the centre of the cup - that is to say I increased an inch in total at the vertical seam that runs towards the nipple. I presume this will increase the cup depth by an inch, without widening the cup, so the extra fabric can be taken up by the volume of my centre and lower bust.
  • Updated: OK, it has occurred to me, while all of these alterations swirl in my mind, that by deepening the centre of the cup as per the bullet point above, I will also need to increase the length of the part of the cup that attaches to the upper sides of the lower cups aka the part where the upper cup is seamed to the lower pieces. I did a little bit of seam checking by 1. pinning the 1" deepened lower cup pieces together and then 2. walking the upper cup seam (that attaches to the lower pieces) along the length of the pinned lower cup pieces - effectively I pinned it together as I'll sew it. And, as I suspected, the upper cup piece was about an inch too short. It makes sense. However, I don't want to increase the upper cup at the top of that cup (the part that supports the upper breast in the cup) because, as stated above*, I don't want too much fullness there, or any additional height. The solution I've come up with is to vertically slash the upper cup piece where it meets the vertical seam of the lower pieces (about half way along its length) all the way up to the top, leaving a little hinge (you know, like you do with an FBA). I'll spread the slash by 1" and tape some paper behind that wedge. Then, I'll tape some more paper to the top of the pattern piece (which will be distorted by the creation of the wedge on the lower side) so that it regains the original shape. This alteration, added to the initial upper piece alteration*, will give me the depth in the centre of the cup, without adding any fabric or additional volume to the top of it. At least that's my theory right now. 
  • Updated: I decided to take the plunge (no pun intended!) and to adjust the side lower piece so that the strap will affix to it, and not to the floating upper piece. I looked at my Roxane and tried to approximate the lines. Then I added .25" seam allowances to the new cut line (cuz I will have to attach the side lower piece to the upper cup piece, albeit in a new place. I really hope I did this right.
Of course, I could be wrong about this. It wouldn't be the first ninth time.

Additionally, I intend to make the band as firm as I can (with new materials) and I'm going to use wires reclaimed from an RTW bra. I've got stretch-free underlining I could use for all cups, including the upper cup I'll make from stretch lace. It's really not a problem for me to have stretch in the upper cup, as long as the lower cups fit perfectly and the strap attaches to the outer, lower cup. In this instance, depending on how I attach the strap, I may need to reduce the stretchability of the upper cup.

So, there you go. I haven't cut anything (but the new pattern pieces). I'm hoping that, if any of you have thoughts or advice about what I've written, that you might provide some useful additional info I can take into the process.

Today's questions: Bra-makers - have you ever successfully added depth to a 3-piece cup (not width) and, if yes, how did you accomplish it? Everyone: Given that bras like the Roxane already exist in the world, and the manufacturers of said bras have access to all the best materials and machines, do you think I'm insane to pursue bra-making, yet again? Feel free to be honest!

27 comments:

  1. That is fantastic K! One of my goals is to make a bra - I'm actually looking for a bra-making class. I'm a bit disappointed that the ASG Conference this summer is not offering bra-making. . .

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    1. I've heard that classes are very hit and miss - though a good one would be invaluable I suspect.

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  2. I don't think you're insane. It's an engineering challenge, therefore it must be conquered! I have given up on bra-making myself (for now) for approximately the same reasons as you describe: patterns for what I want to wear do not exist in my size, and I've had no success modifying other patterns. But it still bugs me.

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    1. It's true. It's a feat! (I do like those.) If I can crack this code - and I'm prepared to admit that it may be a long time before that happens - I will be thrilled to say the least.

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  3. Kristin, I'm sooooooo interested in reading about everything you write about bras! My last bra making class ended in such a depressive state that it put me off making a bra of my own. The bra that we made actually made me look much much wider!

    But reading your bra theories and adventures in making one makes me think, maybe someday I'll make one.

    And curious minds want to know where the firm powernet originally came from? Share please. I've been eyeing the firm powernets from sewsassy lately. Wonder if they are of similar quality as yours.

    You mentioned the place to add extra depth would be to add where the lower cups join at the centre... This was a revelation for me.. And I totally agree with that. The lack of this one is what is giving me the dreaded monoboob look in some bras! I've been doing mental adjustments on my bra as I read along your post and I think most of your adjustments make total sense and I will be needing some of these very same adjustments.

    The non-stretch lining - Is that woven? Can you share where I can get some for me please? Are bras for bigger busts ever made of woven fabrics? Say, the dotty cup from Freya doesn't look like knit.. It is a firm fabric but also looks like it's been fused with some underlining... I really want to snoop on RTW bra makers to find out who manufactures those fabrics!!!

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    1. Oops, it was http://fabricdepotco.com/ I had in mind.. not sewsassy..

      Oh dear! What have you done, Kristin? I can't stop reading about bra making since morning. lol!

      Have you looked at 4800 on this site?
      http://www.makebra.com/products-page/bra-patterns/
      It has a strap attached to the lower cup.

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    2. oh, one more and then I'll stop spamming you.

      http://www.danglez.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=46

      They have a bra pattern for large cups with exactly the same pattern - strap cut out from underbust.

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    3. I think that the powernet came from Sew Sassy - but I'm drawing a blank. Maybe Sera will weigh in... Now I've got to go and look at those links which won't be good for my wallet, something tells me :-)

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    4. Oh, Kay, thanks for that Danglez link - I've got the DB4E which is in a different size bracket but I think this may actually be a good pattern to compare against it. It might be a deeper shape.

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  4. Hey girl, you're not crazy. It might not be cheaper or better to make them, but it's just plain fun! I can't wait to see what you make from this. I am getting practice with larger busts, as I have now talked my friends into free bras. I have both removed and added depth (for myself) from a bottom two-piece cup. Seems like I've gotten the best result is by slashing from the corners of each bottom piece toward the center seam, and opening up a wedge, however much depth you need. When you smooth out the new center seam curve, you'll get more lift if the bottom part of the center seam is flatter than the top 2/3rds. This will also result in a curvier apex across the top seam of the two pieces. Hope that makes sense in words....

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    1. Well, I knew you'd say that! :-) You have some VERY lucky friends Amy. I'm glad to hear you've done the wedge adjustment. Interestingly, I made this alteration before I read your comment but I'm so glad to hear you corroborate it. Three piece construction might be better for your busty friends, fyi, depending on their shapes.

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  5. totally not insane! while i have no real need to do my own bra-making, it's definitely on my "someday" list.

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    1. Maybe when your kids are in university? :-)

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  6. Sewing your own bra is a kind of ultimate sewing and fitting challenge because you have to shape and mold that two-dimensional fabric into a closely fitted, three-dimensional shape that exactly mimics the contours of your body. Every part has to do its job or the final result not going to live up to your standards. A bit of an insane challenge perhaps, but also so totally fascinating that I can see why you want to do it. I'll be following your attempt avidly from the sidelines.

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    1. It really is! It's insane but the opportunity for impressiveness is proportional to the likely of failure :-)

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  7. It's a challenge to be conquered! ;)

    I would be inclined to add the required length to the top piece's lower seam as several small wedges rather than one big one. Otherwise---can't wait to hear how this goes. My fingers and toes will be crossed.

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    1. Oooh, that's a very good suggestion. My reason for making one wedge is because I want the volume at the centre seam area. But now you've got me rethinking things.

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  8. Not insane! You make everything else better than the RTW that you could buy and exactly how you would like it to fit/look. Why not bra's too?

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  9. I think Clio hit the nail on the head. And you do love a challenge....

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  10. I'm a bit worried about potentially inferior materials. I just purchased a couple of kits from the same vendor with intentions of making myself some better fitting bras. I've never splurged on a great bra, although I should since I have a large chest, so maybe I won't know what I'm missing??

    I'm tracing the pattern today (Pin-Up from Bra-Maker's Supply) and will be taking your modifications and suggestions into account.

    So, I don't think you're insane and I hope you're successful in getting a good fit. Thank-you for the detailed notes.

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    1. Hey Stephanie: I could write a book on this - so bear with me :-)

      If you have never worn a bra that fits (which, I realize, isn't what you've said above), I would highly recommend figuring out bra fit from RTW perspective before making them.

      Good (which is to say uplifting, supportive) RTW bras that fit are impossible to imagine till you've found one. Feel free to email me your dimensions and we can talk further but, to my eye you are very narrow. You should probably be wearing a 28 or 30 back (just judging from pics I've seen, of course). You ain't gonna find that at Nordstrom.

      Once you know the fit you're looking for, making a bra will probably be much more frustrating :-) But eventually you'll get it right - or you'll stop trying but at least you'll be wearing RTW bras that fit you perfectly.

      Point is, figure out your proper UK size first. Everyone should do this ASAP, as far as I'm concerned :-). But in the context of learning before you craft, it's particularly important for a would-be lingerie sewist.

      Now, on another topic: I have very little love for that Pin Up Rebecca pattern - which I've made and which is really quite ugly - esp. on certain shapes of fuller bust. So do keep that in mind. I also don't recommend most of the Bra-Maker's supply materials. The experience of purchasing is overpriced and unpleasant, IMO. If you can go elsewhere, do.

      Unless you like a pointy and broad shape, you'll probably want to make a 3 piece cup bra (the Danglez DB4E is a good suggestion, though the band affixes to the top cup instead of the side lower cup (not optimal on heavy breasts for lift).

      Anyway, feel free to email if you'd like to chat more. K

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  11. Every time I read a bra post from you, I am reminded of a friend who took a bra making class. She told me that inspite of making 2 left cups, it was the best bra she ever wore! (And she was not flat of chest either!)

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  12. I can't wait to see how these changes come together for you! On paper it all sounds like it should work, but there's something about bra-making that sometimes seems to defy logic. ;-)

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