All was going very well (figured out how to do the inside binding technique that Tasia instructs in the pattern, which I glossed right over, by accident, the last time). The fabric, while it does water stain (tested on a scrap), did not shrink when steamed. It doesn't fray much. And I've figured out there's likely a very small amount of lycra in it. It has notably more cross grain stretch than any other of my other silk charmeuse. Since it's a fancy fabric, purchased from a designer who bought it from a mill, I imagine this was designed with RTW in mind.
And this, I sense, is the reason why my princess seams (and none of the others) are puckering.
- I'm using a 60 sharp (recommended needle for this kind of fabric).
- I've tested every tension on my machine (apparently lower tension is better for silk but it produced more puckering for me than higher tension - though the stitches are tight in that fabric...)
- I am using poly thread (which may be encouraging the problem, I realize, as the poly stretches in the stitching and then bounces back when sewn, but I haven't had this issue with other silk I've sewn.)
- Note: It's the slight stretch in the fabric itself which I suggest is causing the tension tug back after the sewing. And maybe the poly thread isn't helping. But I don't have ready access to cerise coloured silk thread.
- I have pulled on the seams to lengthen them. Hasn't done much good, but hasn't done any harm.
- I haven't yet pressed the crap out of seams from the wrong side - my next plan of attack, after rest- hanging the shell overnight on my dress form. I realize, short of ripping out the seams - a very risky venture with silk charmeuse - this is my best remedy attempt, unless someone has another suggestion.
Ah, I'd forgotten that lovely sewing anxiety buzz, coupled with a headache from scrunching for 8 hours. It's not ameliorated by my inability to dull it with a nice glass of wine (see here).
So experts, what say you? Please tell me the pressing's gonna work. Or suggest another solution that doesn't require ripping out the stitches or finding silk thread.