Live and Learn

OK, as I read this post, this evening, and considered my complex relationship with Brooklyn Tweed, I realized something and it's kind of shocking: I really like woolen-spun yarn.

If you've been reading this blog for any time, that might surprise you given my well-chronicled penchant for Tosh, Quince Chickadee, and Zara - some of the best worsted. Oh, and because I've felt very comfortable sharing my distaste for the granola-y fibres, in the past.

What really put me over the edge, though, was making this shawl. The fabric made from Brooklyn Tweed Loft yarn is so gorgeously refined, so endlessly springy, incredibly warm and beautifully dyed. While it may say rustic, it doesn't say Granny.

FWIW, you can learn more about the differences between worsted-spun and woolen-spun on the latest knit.fm podcast. Jared Flood also clarifies these processes in a totally approachable way.

In brief:

• Worsted spun =  dense, even, good stitch definition, sometimes luxe
• Woolen spun = wiry, airy, light, lofty, crunchy, generally rustic

Today's questions: Do you prefer one type of process over the other? Are you equally happy with the worsted-spun and woolen-spun? (I mean, I am - increasingly.) What do you look at when you walk into a yarn store and just gravitate to something on display?

Blanche Too: Making Progress (Plus Knitting Math Details and More Bitching!)

As you can see, I'm making some progress on this sweater:

Blanche Too Jumper

A few, in the weeds, pieces of info:

• I'm making the size 34 with mods. Mods include: 
• Going down a needle size on the body and 2 needle sizes on the rib to get horizontal gauge.
• Making the size 32, from a length perspective on the sleeves and sleeve heads (Sleeves are more or less the same circumference as the 34, for what it's worth.)

• My vertical gauge gets more stitches to the inch than the pattern gauge, regardless of which size I'm making, which is working on my behalf since it means I don't have to make as many changes to shorten the relevant areas.

• Having said this, I still need to add some length to the size 32 sleeve head because the combo of going down a size and knitting more rows to the inch (than the pattern gauge) means I'm still short half an inch of fabric length on those sleeve heads.

• Sleeve head depth does not align directly with armsyce depth, as I've noticed in the past. When I have checked ratios from the pattern, as written and do the math, using all of the pattern instructions and gauge for a size 32, the armscye is 7.5 inches deep but the sleeve head is 5.6 inches deep.

• I've gone with 5.75 inches of depth over 46 rows to split the difference between the sleeve head depth of the size 32 and 34.

• I made the armscyes @7.5" deep (size 32 depth) but the left is slightly longer than the other (something I tried to fix numerous times before deciding that I was apt to start wrecking things if I kept removing rows). That's driving me crazy but I sense it will block out as the difference isn't significant.

• At 7.5" armscye length, (what I went with to keep things simple since I've got to consider potential complexities with the neck band proportions), the idea was that I'd be able to just knit the size 32 sleeve (designed for the 7.5 inch armscye). One of the bullets above shows that didn't exactly work, but it was my best option short of drafting this pattern for myself.

OK, hopefully all the math has now been considered and I can just work from my notes to complete the final parts: knitting sleeves, knitting neckline pattern, seaming in sleeves, weaving in ends.

One last word on the pattern - which has once again disappointed me:

In the circular instructions, one is advised, when creating the front neckline, to cast off a certain number of stitches. I carefully followed those instructions. However, when one goes to the neck pattern instructions (which are, stupidly, in the flat pattern area - esp. given that this part of the work is done in the round whether you've made the sweater flat or circularly?!?!), those instructions advise you to pick up and knit the front neck stitches off the holder you've kept them on.

Now, I may suck at reading knitting patterns, but I've looked this over 15 times and I can't see how I'm misinterpreting things. Point is, now I'm going to have neck seam (vs. continuation of live stitches) where it shouldn't be.

That pisses me off big time.

Look, I don't really care about that seam. It might actually give more structure to the neck band, which is something I generally appreciate. The seam will really be most visible from the wrong side, though my rib pattern will not be continuous from the body. Of course, that might be me trying to put a good spin on things since there is NO way to go back and fix this without incurring hours of work for minimal gain. Work I do not intend to undertake given how I feel about the project thus far.

If it were my mistake, I'd be kicking myself. Somehow, though, since it's the pattern's error (as far as I can tell), I'm not so fussed.

See why it's a good idea to put all of your instructions, for one method, in the same section of your two-part pattern?? I suspect someone would have QA'ed that error, if there'd been a consolidation of info.

An Update on Yesterday's Post

Hey y'all. It occurs to me that I did not turn my most considered critique to the Blanche Too pattern, in yesterday's post.  I can't say why that is, exactly, but I'm going to pin it on excessive workload and mid-winter misery, both of which have undercut my ability to be as objective as possible.

Having said this, allow me to qualify a few things:

• It didn't take me 2 hours to figure out how the flat and circular patterns intersect. It probably took an hour. I spend another hour trying to figure out how to operationalize the instructions.

• On that point, I'm willing to admit that I'm perhaps not the most intuitive reader of knitting patterns. 

• Susan Crawford patterns, of which I have made 3, are not the type to hold one's hand, metaphorically. I mean, they hit all the points, but they tend towards the old-school. I do realize this, I mean I've bought many of her books. In fact, her patterns are synonymous with modernized vintage knitting, in my mind, and those books were my impetus to take up the craft. So respect where it's due.

• Alas, you're only as popular as your latest hit. I still don't recommend that you make the circular version of the Blanche Too - unless you are experienced and you read knitting patterns without issue. And if you're still considering it, I do suggest that you read the entirety of the circular instructions to ensure you've got them down. If, after that, it all seems fuzzy, just knit the sweater flat. Those instructions, while not warm and cuddly, will get you from A to B in a straight line. 

In closing, and I'll try not to harp on it any further, all of the instructions, for a particular method of construction, should live within the overarching section which details that method. That's just good technical writing. Blanche Too is a simple, short-sleeved, largely stockinette jumper. It would have been pretty easy to make this pattern far more approachable than it is.

Slow Going

I've got one of those hovering-in-the-background projects going on. You know the kind I mean. The kind that gets picked up and put down on a whim, vaguely unenthusiastically. This sort of project, as is the case for me right now, is so often of the knitting variety. Since there's no way to finish a hand knit on a whim, they're all too easy to cast aside - even for me, the self-professed, product knitter-plus.

My project in question is the Blanche Too sweater by Susan Crawford:

I started it at the beginning of January, after the hideous, Xmas gift rush, and I have to say, it's not so fun. 

For starters, though I may have said that I wasn't going to worry about fit, that I'd knit the pattern as written, I am apparently incapable of doing so. Truth is, I'm all too aware that my high-hip to waist span is short, that between my torso and base of the underarm, I require more length to serve (in the finished product) as depth.* I also know I need a shorter-than-average length from underarm to top of shoulder, where I am quite short. If you add to this the fact that I rarely get gauge (and certainly didn't with this project) - vertical OR horizontal -there was a lot of mathy thinking to do, even if it didn't amount to crazy alterations in the long run.

Moreover, the project is largely worked in stockinette stitch, knit in the round, and man, it's been boring. (Oh, and it's a bottom up knit so there's been no easy way to try for fit as I've knit.)

Having said all this, that's not even what really kills my buzz for this project. 

What really kills my buzz is how mediocrely the pattern has been written. Frankly, and surprisingly, I feel the instructions are sub par, especially given the designer's reputation. Here's the thing: She provides directions for knitting this garment flat AND in the round, all in the same pattern, which does seem like a great idea.

Alas, the in-the-round instructions are an afterthought (perhaps unsurprising as author, Susan Crawford, is a vintage knitting specialist who values the art of seaming finished, flat pieces as in days of yore). Ironically, I can get with seaming. If I'd known how meh the in-the-round instructions were going to be, I'd have gone with the flat pattern instructions.

Furthermore, knitting this "in the round" amounts to knitting the tube of the body, to the armscye, and the tubes of the lower sleeves, to the sleeve head, in the round. (Note that, eventually, in both sets of directions, one picks up and knits the neckline detail.) 

However, you still end up knitting your sleeve heads flat. You still end up knitting the armscye to shoulder "straps" flat. You still have to seam in the freakin' sleeves. Um, I appear to have saved myself mattress stitching 2 side seams (easy work, btw) for the pain of spending two hours trying to figure out where the in-the-round instructions merge with the flat pattern instructions.

See, it hasn't actually been clearly delineated where one - considering the flat pattern instructions, and having theretofore worked in the circular version - is meant to begin. And it's not particularly intuitive, though the two sentences provided on the topic would lead you to believe that it must be. At very least, would it have killed her to actually restate the flat pattern language, in the appropriate places, within the circular instructions?

 

As it is, it's only because I've gotten cozy with the math - and I've made many sweaters - that I have any idea of what's going on. Here's hoping I can finish this garment this weekend, if only to be done with it (and, optimistically, to have a new, fitted sweater from which I will get a lot of use).

Has any of you attempted this sweater? Thoughts or feelings? Positive vibes? Let's talk!

*On the topic of adding this extra length versus short row bust darts, the fact is that I'm too narrow in the torso for the bust darts to be of much use. When I add them, invariably the whole sweater gets too big. I find, and here's hoping the theory holds, that an inch of extra length from waist to armsyce tends to do the trick.

Showing My Stripes

OK, let's get the ball rolling with some photos (sorry that the dress-form is too wide for the shoulders, but it'll give you some idea while I sit here with greaseball hair):

StyleArc Demi-Drape Top - Altered from the first version I made yesterday per this post...Though I realize it looks like the hem is rolling, it's not. I just didn't organize it over the fabric cover of my dress form.

I didn't have the luxury of pattern-matching (mercifully) cuz I was working with an odd shaped remanant of this fabric. The stripes match visually across the arms and back, though, which is a happy accident.

I have so much to say, it's gonna take a while. So get yourself a snack.

For starters, I used up 3 yards of fabric in this two-phased process, which is awesome, cuz yesterday I bought 6 more. What!? I told you I'm on a binge. How can you be on a binge if you don't binge?

Which brings us to Side Bar One:

Here are swatches of what I bought yesterday, all from Gorgeous Fabrics:

Heather grey light-weight sweatshirt fabric, with flat backing

 This is for when I get the urge to make some chic sweatpants or the Victory Patterns Lola dress.

Then I got this:

Cheetah Print Rayon Jersey (a designer fabric, I think)

...because everyone has bamboozled me with Jungle January and now I feel I need animal print in my wardrobe too. I want to make this with it:

StyleArc Issy Top

Um, can you believe this is StylArc's free Feb. pattern of the month. And, I did join the StyleArc club, fyi. Got a free pattern (made replacing the Janet Jacket less miserable that way), will get a gift, special deals and 10% off each pattern. Let's see if this lives up to the hype.

Anyway, I think this top will be very chic in that fabric.

I also got more of that Soft and Lightweight Italian Jersey that I bought in two shades to make the original Demi-Drape top (unphotoed so far, made yesterday).

I really love this fabric and I'm getting more before it's no longer available.

OK, back to the Demi-Drape Top...

I made these alterations:

I added 1 inch at hips, tapering to nothing at waist. And I shallowed up the cowl to give extra fabric for draping over the boobs.

It fits perfectly. (I don't know if I've ever said that about anything I've made before.) So here's an instance where putting in the time has paid off.

Now, having said this, would it have been prudent not to make the shell in wide stripes, given that the thing is very fitted from waist to hip?? I mean, let's say you're trying to hide your perimenopausal stomach. Don't use wide stripes, is my advice. Mind you, I'm going to wear it happily, despite this.

Weirdly, that seagrass rayon I used for the underlay, manages to be 8 colours at once: it's kind of brown, kind of yellow, kind of grey, kind of green, a bit taupe... Somehow, though it's not in the colour palette of the cool blue and grey shell fabric, it works. Who can say why?

So there you go. I'm sure I'm going to wear the pants off this thing. Whatcha think??

This Pattern's a Keeper

OK, I did end up finishing the top today - 5 minutes before going out to dinner. And let me tell you, it's a hit.

The arm adjustments resulted in a pattern that fits perfectly in the arms and shoulders. The drape of that rayon jersey is amazing. BTW, I threw the fabric the washer and dryer twice, on Ann's advice, to ensure there wouldn't be any post construction shrinkage, and it's worn fairly well.

I need make only these changes to the pattern - and if I can find another fabric combo in my stash, I'm making it again tomorrow:

• Use the chain method to ensure that the cowl doesn't flip.
• Add more fabric in the cowl to allow for better drape over my breasts. Right now, the cowl overlay falls directly over the midpoint of my breasts. I love the shoulder position, but I'm going to make the curve of the cowl itself slightly shallower to get the additional fabric I require.
• Add about an inch to the hips tapering to nothing at the shoulder. I sense I need a bit more space in the waist and hips to skim better over my lower abdomen.

I made the size 10 and I have to say I'm really happier to increase circumference at the waist and hips in a slightly snug size than to make everything in a size 12 smaller. Making stuff bigger is much easier to do.  Mind you, I did spend hours today making the armscye and shoulder dimensions smaller and higher by doing all of those adjustments before cutting. So maybe every size needs to be bigger in some places and smaller in others.

In the end, my opinion is that the Demi-Drape top is a very easy pattern to sew. Looks more complicated than it is and it doesn't look particularly hard, I realize. I don't think the instructions are fantastic, but StyleArc assumes you know what you're doing. If you've got tits this is the top for you.

It took me about 2 hours to actually sew the garment, not so long by my standards. Next time it will hopefully go more smoothly because now I know what I'm aiming for.

I really love the end result and the pattern looks good, inside and out. Note: I used a serger, cover stitch and a regular machine). Photos will follow, likely with the next version, because I want to produce a better fitting end product. But I will photo the one I made today on the dress form - as long as the dress form isn't too wide.

It's really great to make something I know I'll wear.

Fast Fashion?

You know what I hate? That it takes me 3 hours (not including pre-treating my fabric) to get to the point that I can actually cut the fabric (something I don't love to do given that I have to do it - as with so much other sewing prep - on the floor).

I know I've bitched about this before but, since I'm not going to have a chance to make the Demi-Drape top by the time I go out for dinner tonight, I might as well do some writing...

How do you fast sewists accomplish this (in addition to your sewing) in 2ish hours?:

• Ironing fussy fabric
• Choosing thread and winding bobbins
• Changing the thread on your serger and cover stitch machines
• Changing the needle on your machine
• Testing fabric swatches for stitch tension
• Altering the pattern per your TNT (I know tons of you do this routinely. I do it for 2 items - any pants (I copy the TNT crotch depth and curve) and knit tops (I copy the TNT armscye and sleeve depth and curve)
• Tracing the pattern - Oh yeah, I did this today and I LOATHE it. Way to waste an hour. I know, I know, if this first version of the top fucks up, who'll be laughing then. But honestly, if it fucks up, I may be to weary too ever try again. (Drama for effect due to weariness.)
• Cutting the pattern out
• Organizing the pattern pieces on top of the fussy fabric (just this takes 40 minutes)
• Cutting the fabric
• Marking the fabric

After this, I get to sew.

You can see how there's no instant gratification which, after the Janet Jacket, I seriously need.

I'm not joking - please fast sewists, tell me how you do it.

At any rate, the difference between the pattern armsyce and sleeve is actually more different than I initially thought (having just pasted my TNT sloper atop the pieces briefly the other day).

To wit:

Altered Back Piece

Altered Front Underlay

Altered Front Cowl

Altered Sleeve

See how much higher, than the pattern's, my TNT armsyces are. At least I think so - I am relying on math and past experience which is, really, so nerve-wracking.

And here are the cut, newly altered pieces:

To remind you, I did not reinvent the wheel here. I'm not actually creating muslins and refining the pattern to determine which alterations are required - well, at least not yet... Nonetheless, there are 3 hours gone.

Oh, and btw, by the time I baste the pieces, prior to serging, I estimate the arranging, cutting, marking and sewing will take a minimum of 3 more hours. If I'm lucky. Cuz I still don't understand exactly what the (non)instructions are instructing.

Thoughts or feelings?