Finished Object: Charlie Skirt (A Legitimate Saga)

Lord, people, I have no idea where to begin with this drama-filled skirt saga, except to say that I've spent 4 fucking days making a pull-on garment. A faux version of a real thing. And I want my money back.

For starters, do NOT buy this pattern. Not if you're experienced, not if you're a newbie. Buy any other StyleArc Pattern, buy any other pull-on denim skirt. Just stay away from this one. While I generally find StyleArc instructions to be benignly inferior, these instructions are actually harmful. In full disclosure, I eventually threw them away and started using my brain because a) they made NO sense b) the only 2 other online peeps who have written about making this corroborate my perspective (and these are experienced sewists who often sew StyleArc) and c) the instructions produce an end result that actually catches the waistband facing and the side seams and the elastic in the waist seam allowance. In what universe is this good construction?? Non-sewists: This means the waist area would be a bulky mess.

Having said this, I am in no way dissing the drafting, which I actually think is pretty great. Too bad.

Let me cut to the chase: This experience was a successful failure for 3 reasons:

1. I made the skirt too big and I used the wrong fabric. The end result produced a skirt that was too big in a minimal, but most unattractive way - and unfixable, short of taking apart the entire fucking skirt for a third time. Not gonna happen. I also used the wrong fabric, as it happens. Too much drape, not enough heft. I'm going to need real denim to make this skirt work. The other 2 bloggers who've made this both indicated that the pattern is way too snug for size and that, as a result, it emphasizes the abdomen and hips. I don't quite agree. I actually would have had a perfect fit, minus 4.5" of length, with 20% stretch fabric and an unaltered size 14 (I made an altered-up version - let's call it a 15). Not to second guess these excellent, experienced sewists (and really stylish ladies) but I think the reason that they feel that it's snug for size is because it's a style that totally calls attention to the midsection and they, like I, used relatively light-weight fabric with more stretch than strength. I mean, this garment is pegged. Why on earth I'm making it is beyond me. I'm certainly not looking to emphasize the waist area. But my hips are fairly proportioned and my legs work well with this shape so I am committed - after 30 hours - to get this thing to work.
2. The construction methodology was whack, but I prevailed! I figured out how to assemble the waistband/elastic such that the end result is as it should be - elastic free from seams, seams clean, facings folded over the elastic on front and back waist. Feel free to ignore this section but below are some notes on it because I've spent a lot of time figuring it out and now I want to see if I can turn it into something wearable. 
3. Finally, I really learned a LOT. I mean, top stitching (which I'm not good at but which I'm so much better at than I was at the start). My workmanship was pretty good (best hem I've ever coverstitched). My on-the-fly fixes were considered and they worked! I'm better at this craft for having made this skirt. Let's look at a few pictures!

C'mon - this is the freakin' inside of the skirt!!

This is the interior of my coverstitched hem. I free-styled this!

Top stitching is far from perfect but it's acceptable...

FYI - I'm not convinced that I shouldn't just redraft the waistband altogether and affix it differently (like the version I use to make Hudson Pants - I've done a tutorial on this, fyi, just search for it if you'd like to know more). The reason I'm not going to do this is because I'm not entirely sure it would work with a back yoke. I think it would but no harm in trying my modified method one more time...

Readers, please skip over unless you're making this thing, in which case, you're welcome!

Charlie Skirt Order of Operations:

• Sew darts. Attach back waistbands (yoke) to the top of the back pieces. (Could prob make this easier but it's likely easier to sew the patch pockets on with this order...) No need to serge. Press seams up. Top stitch.
• Attach the pockets - use lots of fusible tape.
• Serge back skirt/waistband units to one another, wrong sides together. Press right. Top stitch.
• Attach faux pockets to the skirt front by sewing. Note: before sewing, serge the pocket curve for more neatness. Also, clip and notch before sewing to ease the curve. 
• Attach the front left and right pieces: Carefully serge from waist, around the faux fly curve, down to the top of the split. Or serge in the other direction if that's easier...
• Sew the faux fly stitching (chalk it for alignment). Top stitch the front down to the split.
• Double turn and sew split on each side. Use tape to facilitate.
• Cut elastic to preferred size. 1"-wide, use soft elastic... Stitch it into a loop.
• Chalk 0.5" seam allowances on the side edges of the front waistband. Note: I've altered this piece so that it aligns with the back waistband (yoke) height. It's 1" less deep than the pattern calls for.
• Fold the front waistband in half, wrong sides together, and press. Chalk the centre line for better visibility when sewing. Affix the elastic such that you stretch it slightly and STOP stitching at 0.5" seam allowance. This must stay free. This side of the waistband represents the side that will face in i.e. into the wrong side).
• Sew the front facing part of the front waistband to the front skirt, right sides together. Top stitch with the seam pressed up. Note: The inside-facing waistband is left unattached. At this point you have the back yoke affixed to the back skirt and the front yoke affixed to the front skirt - but both "inside" halves of those pieces are still unattached.
• Align the side seams of the front and back skirt pieces. Carefully ensure that the waistband top stitching is matched. Make sure that the front and back waistband pieces are open. Pin the right sides together. Sew each side from where the waistband is affixed to the skirt (topstitching area) up to the top of the fully extended waistband interior. It will fold over soon but now it's full-height. Avoid the elastic.
• Serge the side seams from top of the extended waistband to hem.
• Serge the long edges of the free waistband pieces (front and back). Do not remove any seam allowance. This is just to neaten the edge but you need the full depth. 
• Ensure that the elastic isn't twisted. Fold down the interior waistbands with the elastic enclosed. Pin the inside waistband pieces (the ones you just neatened) with precision. Stitch in the ditch to sew down the waistband on the inside.
• Top stitch the side seams.
• Stitch in ditch to hold down the elastic at the sides and back seams. This will be invisible and will not add bulk.
• Coverstitch or top stitch the hem at 1".

A few thoughts about the sizing: I actually find StyleArc very true to size. In the past I've made modified 10s and 12s when sewing tops or dresses in jersey. I'm glad I cut the 14, in this instance, because my denim has only 20% stretch and I'd prefer to use a firmer fabric with a larger size pattern than a stretchier fabric with a smaller sized pattern. I mean, I'm the same size either way and I want a firm fabric to support the protrusion of my stomach. In fact, next time I make this I'm going to use more robust fabric and I'll insert a fucking stay! Why not. This is effectively what they do with RTW jeans pockets to keep everything sucked in. I have no idea of what fabric to use for the stay (maybe a stretch twill that is strong but thin?) Anyone else done this? How does it work or where does one find info? I increased the size of the 14 because a) I'd read that this thing fits tight and b) I measured myself and estimated that I'd want 0 negative ease given that I don't like things tight. What I didn't consider is that a pattern that's a bit too big made from a drapey fabric without much heft is, well, inclined to exhibit one's stomach bulge.

So that's my long weekend in a nutshell - well, except for the knitting (which is the topic of my next post). You may be happy to know that the knitting, it went unreservedly well!

Charlie Skirt - The Drama Continues (Or, if You Prefer, Help Me to Choose My Next Knitting Project)

Brief check in to tell you I've never spent so long making a skirt in my life. And this pattern isn't even lined?! At any rate, I have either made some sort of late-stage mega mistake (though my review of the pattern pieces doesn't lead me to believe this) or there's an error in the 16, pdf version. I think I can fix it but it's going to take ripping out a lot of top stitching at the front waist and cutting down the waistband depth. FYI, this issue was not caused by my minimal, horizontal side seam alterations (which were carefully paired). Having said this, the other two blog people who've made this (I believe in the same size Correction: I made a modified 14, I believe they made the 16) did not note this issue. Could be that I did something wrong, construction-wise, but I don't think that's the case either.

The point is that I've got to put down this project and let my mind unconsciously review the situation. I don't believe this is a foregone failure and I do believe that this version will fit in the end (if not awesomely, first time out). I pin basted it to confirm. I'm just not sure about this waist band/back yoke - not the drafting of the original pieces OR the construction method OR what the final fit will be. It seems like there's too much fabric at the back waist... Might have to alter the yoke next time.

I also have to remove, like, 4 inches of length from the hem. It's crazy. Could have saved myself that fabric! My legs aren't short, even if I am, so I can tell you this pattern is designed with a tall person in mind.

I'm putting it down till tomorrow (I actually stopped at 1pm) but this now leaves me at loose ends on a long weekend! I guess I'm going to have to find a new project to knit as I've finished the Bias Wrap (it's blocking) and my half done pair of socks is at the office. Man that wrap was a fast, terrific knit. Wanna feel productive? Use bulky-weight squish-ball yarn. It disappears like a wet dog in water. But as it's drying, you can see its reconstructed, bloom-y potential.

So here are my next-step knitting options:

Option 1: The Cozy/Chic Fall Topper

Modern Wrapper by Churchmouse Yarns and Teas

Modern Wrapper Fine by Churchmouse Yarns and Teas

These 2 patterns are supposed to be versions of one another but, from all photos, they seem to be quite different in more ways than simply proportion. The Fine version is meant to have more size and fit options (the original is one-size). But the Original seems to have a sleeker silhouette with those fitted arms beneath a dropped shoulder. I think I'm going to have to buy both patterns (10 buck USD each) to see how the construction works in each. Then I can determine which is the better bet. Right now I'm leaning towards the original pattern made on a smaller needle size with a couple of horizontal and vertical edits. If you've made either - or even if you haven't! - please chime in with feedback.

I'll use this yarn, the bamboo/alpaca Briza by Americo:

Briza in Bark

As long as it's not too fuzzy (and the store sample of this yarn was not), I think that the design will look quite good in the Briza. Have I mentioned how much I love having 1500ish yards of yarn for every project. It increases my options tremendously!

Option 2: The asymmetric sweater that could be awesome - or bland:
 

Sweet Jane by Amy Miller

I've got this yarn earmarked:

Quince and Co. Chickadee in Kittywake

In case you thought I was joking about my irrepressible tendency toward grey and neutrals, think again!

But then there's the pretty, fitted Arrow pullover (below). The Arrow is technically designed for fingering-weight yarn, though the Chickadee I have earmarked is sport-weight. I think it might work well nonetheless:

Arrow by Megh Testerman

Thoughts?

But finally...

Option 3: The Hipster One that Karen from Fringe Association would make

Nancy's Vest by Carol Sunday

The wildcard here is the boobs. I'll have to find a way to knit this just big enough or it could be a tent. I'm impressed that so many of the versions on Ravelry, made for peeps of different shapes and sizes, have turned out to be flattering. That's a mark of a good pattern, in my experience.

To make this, I'll use my fab Icelandic indigo merino, gifted by Nic:

So what's the delay? Well, partly I'm feeling conflicted about which choice is the best. If you have thoughts about what I should make first - do let me know!

Moreover, the part of me that doesn't much feel like doing a ton of sweater-math is not jumping on any of these - and I have no idea which will be easiest. I'd say the Modern Wrap, but it's just huge on everyone so I'll need to modify its size, for sure.

Then, it's not lost on me that all of this knitting is stockinette. And most of it not in the round! That means I'm headed for another couple of months of knit one row, purl the next. Having just done this with the bias wrap, I can say that it does get old. Mind you, I much prefer, and find it much more ergonomic, to knit on thin needles with thin yarn, which is what most of the patterns in this next batch require.

BTW, I've been on a roll when it comes to finding gorgeous knitting patterns on Ravelry. Check out my favourites page for some great ideas, dare I say it myself! Somehow those photos show all samples knit in grey?!

Work In Progress: StyleArc Charlie Skirt

I realize, as I'm sewing the Charlie skirt (at a glacial speed), that I still have no idea of how this is going to fit for a whole bunch of reasons:

• I rarely sew skirts. Moreover, I haven't ever sewn a StyleArc Patterns skirt.
• I rarely sew with wovens or stretch woven fabrics. Show me a jersey and I'll tell you how to alter the pattern to ensure it'll sew up so it fits. I use wovens for 1 in 10 projects. Maybe. So I don't have much in the way of perceptual memory here.
• Every stretch woven is a little mystery - How will it drape? How stretchy is it, functionally?
• To some extent, I'm trying to refine fit (pre-alter) in lieu of having a sense of how the original design would fit. (I find this generally works better than sewing a pattern straight out of the envelope, but it means that there are that many more unknowns during the making of the original muslin.)

It's all the more piquing for miles of top-stitching - this is a denim skirt in spirit if not in construction. Do you know how precisely NEVER I take proud photos of my top-stitching? Um, that's cuz I never do it so I'm not very good at it so I never do it (repeat). Furthermore, it would probably be a good idea to find an edge-stitch foot. Because my machine is vintage (from the 70s), not sure how easy it'll be to find said foot. I'm kind of amazed that I've spent many hours making something the fit of which is still totally unknowable and the visible stitching of which, while better than I've managed in the past, is not exactly approaching perfection.

I'm feeling rather kindly towards myself today. (I know, whack!) So I'm going to be grateful that this is good enough:

I know that these look differently positioned but they're accurately aligned in real life!

Can you believe that this blue rayon denim is the same as the one in the photo below? Weird.

The deep blue of the fabric is actually more accurately shown in the photo above.

Of course, StyleArc isn't taking your money to provide you with decent instruction. Oh no. With this brand you're paying for the RTW-sensibility and generally good drafting. If you don't know how to do something, look it up. I have only once before sewn patch pockets and it was a fucking disaster. This time I went through the following steps, which I made up as I went along (though they're all quite standard, I'm sure).

• Chalked the patch pockets onto the wrong side of the skirt back pieces. (Who knows if these are the right size or correctly placed to suit my derriere but I can't pre-suppose that everything must be changed or I'd get nowhere.)
• Pinned the chalk lines so that the shape would be outlined on the right side.
• Heat fused the facing of the pocket to the wrong side of the fabric to hold it down, prior to stitching.
• Top stitched the pockets - boringly, but at least it's clean enough. I do not know how peeps manage to top-stitch outrageously complicated curves?!
• Heat fused the raw edges of the pockets under.
• Heat fused the clean-edges of the under-turned pockets to the right side of the skirt - the pockets in alignment with the pins.
• Top stitched the pockets down. Yeah, my needle got pretty gummy from all of the fusible tape I'd used to hold things in place without pins. It was fine though.

Did I mention that I'm not twin-needling? I'm doing each row of stitches independently. I find that twin-needles tend to tunnel as often as they don't and that makes me insane and puts me in a sewing state of persistent agitation. I mean this thing sews slowly but only because of all of the visible stitching. And consider, it takes twice as long to sew each stitch separately than it does to use a double-needle.

Also, didn't realize till half way through that you're not supposed to anchor the ends of top stitched rows by machine back-tacking. Oh well.

I don't have 3/4" elastic. Frankly, I find that width too narrow for everything. Instead I have some firm elastic that's 1 inch wide and some soft elastic that's 1.5 inches wide. I'll use the wider, presuming it'll work...

Oh, and while I'm disclosing the "let's think more about this next time" things, I should have serged, not sewn, the back yokes to the back skirt. Plus, gotta figure out how to serge or pre-finishe the faux-pockets and associated part of the front skirt pieces because those seams are, yeah, safely top-stitched down, but still vaguely frayish on the inside.

I truly hope that the fit is modifiable at the last step - the moment at which one sews the side-seams up (in a really strange way that apparently catches the elastic in the side-seams that might be unsightly or bulky. This is yet another thing I can't bring myself to turn my attention to while sewing a first version.) It's only at the last seam that I'll have a sense of whether the amount of fabric I cut is destined to actually fit my body with tweaks - either increased or decreased side seam allowances... Such suspense! If only this were a reality tv show!

But never mind me - how's your top stitching? Really, are you crazily good at it cuz you were born with great spatial skills (or you have great tools)? Do you get someone else to do it for you (or sew a lot of casual knits)? Do you avoid it cuz you don't have much initial aptitude (that would be me)? Let's talk.

The Sisterhood of the Elasticized Waistband

Starting Friday, I'm taking an extra long-weekend, the primary activity during which will be sewing.

(Brief sidebar, in case y'all are wondering: We're going to wait on the reno till March/April of 2017. The crew was actually organized to start next week, but with all of the stuff going on with Scott's parents - and all of the prep work we've yet to undertake, it seems prudent to defer until then. Scott was the one who pulled this trigger but I can't disagree with his motives. Mind you, I have informed all involved that - if this fucking renovation doesn't start the moment the ground thaws next spring - people are going to perish and/or get divorced. Metaphorically, I mean.)

But back to the sewing. I recently came across the StyleArc Charlie skirt:

Here's the genius: It's a skirt made from a stretch-woven fabric, faux front pockets (I hate front pockets) and patch pockets on the derriere. The best part? The back waistband is elasticized.

Don't judge! What's the harm in wearing a pull-on skirt if you can't tell that there's an elastic waist (the front is flat and sports a faux fly)? I've got some woven rayon denim with @20 per cent stretch and I think it's going to do the trick.

Alas, I purchased the online pattern in a multi-size 10-12-14 (these three come in the same batch though they're not nested) and there's a point to be made that I might have purchased the 14-16-18 pack. How I wish they offered a 12-14-16... I also wish that StyleArc gave better sizing information on the website (or even on the pattern/in the envelope).

Here's the thing, I do not sew without making alterations, so any size I bought would have had to be altered. In this instance - having heard that the Charlie fits snug - I took my latest hip/waist measurements and compared them with those of the size 14 the pattern. I mean, I didn't just look at the envelope. I measured all of the seams, minus the seam allowances, did the math and altered (pre muslin 1, that is). I'm glad I did because I cannot stand tightness around my waist or hips right now. I need skim. And that means it was prudent to add an inch to the finished hip measurement and 1.5 inches to the waist. Sure, the stretch in my fabric may pick up the slack, but I'd rather have larger seam allowances than a muslin that feels like casing.

I'm not going to get into it, but yesterday's measurement experience was a shock. I haven't noticed huge increases in my dimensions when regularly measuring (simply small encroaching ones) but it appears that my hips are @2 inches larger than they used to be and my waist is a good 4 inches larger than it used to be. By used to be, I mean 4 years ago. Fuck. To clarify: When I took these measurements, I was not bloated. I had not just eaten.

Here's the situation, Ladies: When you go through the Change - the never-fucking-ending-eternal process of perimenopause,  you may observe no meaningful transition in your body, in your mental capacity, in your physical well being, in your sense of self. And if you fall into that category you are either truly blessed (and you have ALL of my envy) or you're totally unaware (and you still have my envy).*

You may, however, expand disproportionately in some areas of your body. I regret to inform you that it's probably a foregone conclusion based on your family genetics. Those also of Puerto Rican and Italian heritage, you have all of my apple-ish-shaped empathy.** Sure, you can starve yourself. I have a friend who eats, shall we say, lightly - but she doesn't particularly enjoy food and she's struggled with digestive issues for her entire life. But the truth is, you may be so fucking beside yourself, half the time, that food and wine will be amongst the only things that you can still relate to.

I'm having an interesting ride - as you know - though my cycle continues to be of German-precision, if changing. I've got the trifecta of midsection thickening, intermittent chronic pain (rather bad right now, sadly) AND sometimes I feel as if I'm going crazy. When I was a teenager, I remember a family relative, by marriage, was admitted to an institution because she'd come unhinged in midlife. When I asked my mother what could possibly have happened, she told me it was menopause-related, that many of this woman's close blood relatives had experienced the same thing. (Note: They have all recovered and have gone on to live happy lives after an extended stay in hospital.) At that time, I told my mother that she was obviously misinformed -  that it couldn't possibly be so. But right about now, I kind of get it.

Don't misunderstand - while I am totally having a midlife crisis, I am not down for the count. Though I'm struggling - because pretty well all of my internal stability has been perfunctorily upended - I still view this as reintegration via disintegration.

But once again, back to the topic at hand...

I'm going to spend the weekend figuring out how to make a spectacular pull-on skirt that looks totally legit and hangs beautifully. I'm going to sew the shit out of that thing. And when I'm not doing that, I'm going to practice my strange version of yoga/bodywork to ameliorate pain, have some meaningful conversation with my husband (as the kids are calling it these days) and eat and drink less than I might like (but more than perhaps I should).

Stay tuned. It'll be interesting.

* And just to reassure you, or to scare you, I (the poster-child of hateful perimenopause) am rather grateful to say that I don't experience many of the dozens of unfortunate symptoms that can inform the perimenopausal experience. Point is that even I fall somewhere on the "it could be much worse" continuum.

**To clarify: I know that I am within weight and height norms. I realize that I am not technically overweight, even if my waist circumference isn't at the healthy low end (according to some possibly fallible medical association). I realize that norms and "scientific" standards are neither normal nor standard and that we are all unique. I realize that all shapes can be beautiful (or not - it's very person-specific) because of and despite weight, shape and size. I know that youth is as it does. I know that age levels the playing-field. I know that style is timeless, but one's style may change. 

All I'm talking about here is ME. I'm talking about how I used to look a certain way that I liked and that I could relate to. I used to feel good in my body, not wracked with pain. I used to feel capable physically and predominantly healthy, not afraid of what may come. And I am not that person right now. But I assure you, I'm doing my very best to be a new person - one with much more insight, intelligence, agility and self-acceptance than I currently feel.  So when I speak of my body issues, they are mine. Don't think for a minute that I extend them to anyone else.