Brave New World

It is my husband's theory that all creativity starts with a little bit of destruction.

Meet Exhibit A:

Seriously, I've owned 3 of this bra, and this is the first one that looks like utter crap on the inside. Almost made it easier to rip up...

And Exhibit B:




I may have had my doubts about this but, I can already tell, this deconstruction was a very smart move. (And Scott loves demolition so much he did half the work!)

For starters, the upper front piece (the part that forms the plunge of the cleavage) is that long skinny piece. In all of the patterns I have made heretofore, that piece was twice as fat and 2/3 as long.

The bridge (where the 2 cups converge) is about 30 per cent the size of the ones I've been making. See how mini it is? It's the tiny triangular shape on the table...

And the under wires are a totally different shape than the ones I have purchased. Much better quality than the ones I have purchased, alas. I sure as hell hope it's even possible to purchase that quality of wire. It doesn't wiggle like a tightrope, you know... Intriguingly, I've bought every size of wire you can imagine and the only one that works (albeit imperfectly) is the smallest one I've got. And I'll have to cut it at the centre front or it'll be too long for the bra shape.

The band and other elastic are thinner on the RTW bra than any of the stuff I've used in my previous work (wherein I was following pattern directions).

In an extremely strange turn, all of the materials in the RTW rip-up are slimmer and smaller, and still my previous homemade bra (from pattern) construction attempts have yielded a bra that doesn't fit because it appears to be to small. Well, that is where it's not too big.

I don't understand - but I'm gaining a lot of insight.

I think I may have to rip up that other bra (the one I originally tried to replace because it's on its last legs) after all. It's not a plunge, but a balconette, and I'm so intrigued to see if the pieces are as divergent as this plunge bra is from the pre-purchased patterns I've used until now.

Sewists: Can you tell me if there's anywhere better than Bra-Makers from which to purchase wires? Have you got a source that produces ones which rival those in bras that retail for $75.00 or more? Please say yes!

Component Parts

You know how I went back to Figleaves to repurchase my fave bra so that I could dissect an older (pre-owned) version that's nearing the end of its lifespan? Well, though that bra's been regular stock for years, the new one I purchased was too big (even though the size was "right") and when I sent it back for the size down, I was advised that there are no more to be had and it won't be available going forward.

What?!@??

That is really hard to take - even though it was equally hard to take cutting up a bra under any circumstances. Thank goodness the risk mitigator in me refused to allow the unstitching of the current bra till the new one arrived safe and sound. Can you imagine how horrible that would have been?

I'm about to make a new bra from a new bra pattern - one I haven't tried before. Who knows if it will be as unsuccessful, fitwise, as the other 2 patterns I've used, but I figure I owe this pattern a fighting chance before I try to source another repurchased version of a bra I already own and rip that one up. I'm a little gun shy...

Fortunately, I have some beautiful new supplies from Bra Components to use in this endeavour. My contact, Jen, and the owner / head dyer Craig, kindly gifted these to me as samples so that I can tell y'all about the experience of ordering and (eventually) using the supplies.

Turns out that Craig started this small, but growing, concern after 20 years of dye experience in the fashion industry. He's dyed product for lingerie companies such as Wacoal and Victoria's Secret.

What prompted me to try Bra Components, aside from curiosity and the desire to expand my network, is that I was limited - when ordering elsewhere - from getting components in colours that matched my fabric. (Components include: closures, rings/slides, strapping, chanelling (the thing that holds the wire), elastics and more.)

See, even though I'm crazy enough to make bras, I absolutely draw the line at dying fabric. I mean, it's messy! Having made 7 bras in either black or pink, I want to expand the options. Next bra, as it happens, will be indigo. Yes, it looks practically black but it's not. And, quite honestly, with someone to manage the dying, the bra-making world has become my oyster.

My newly dyed components are an excellent match to my fabric swatch (which I sent to Jen for matching, as is one's prerogative). You can also choose from a massive pantone drop-down list (if you know the pantone of your fabric, for example, or if you've got a good eye and can determine the pantone visually from your fabric.) I can also say that the service is prompt and affordable - the shipping rate is reasonable even to Canada!

I will let you know how I enjoy the straps, elastic, rings/slides and channeling as I apply them to my next project.

Now all I've got to do is master the fit and I'll be unstoppable :-)

PS: The CreativFestival, coming to the Toronto Convention Centre October 22-24, will include a couple of bra-making courses taught by Beverly Johnson of Bra-Makers Supply. If any of you are close-by, and looking to develop a new sewing skill, it might be useful to register. There are zillions of other courses to try out also, so check it out. I really hope I'll have a chance to go...