Sunday, September 1, 2013

The Fall Capsule Collection: More About KS3115 V Neck Top

So, it appears that I do have a knit top sloper (though I suggested to Susan, in comments, that I do not). See, while I haven't really given much thought to my, hard won, T shirt sloper for like, over a year, technically, it does give me key info about the armsyce curve I require on a dart-free, knit top.

And really, what's KS3115, the V neck, if not a dartfree, knit top?

What I discovered is fascinating!

Y'all know - and pls. read this for more context - that I reverted from a weird small-med mash-up, back to a small for my next version of the KS, V-neck exercise top. When I was trying to figure out whether I'd have enough fabric to make shells and t shirts from my fabric remnants (post on this will follow), I ended up comparing the T shirt sloper to the size small, V neck top pattern and I realized a couple of key deets:
  • Both tops are effectively the same in width and in length - eerily so. They also have almost identical shoulder seams.
  • The only visible difference (aside from neckline, which is alterable depending on the version of a T shirt one chooses to make) is in the shape and depth of the armsyce. 
Man, those two armsyces are on different planets! No wonder KS3115 doesn't fit. Even with my reversion to the size small, the armholes are SO low and wide!

So, here's my fix (as yet untested in the exercise shell - though it does work for the, made-in-the-past, T shirt pattern):



Much as one must often alter a crotch curve (see here) one must also consider the best shape and depth of armhole. I've added about 2 inches of height to the side seam at the underarm and I've narrowed the side seams by about 1/2 inch. Having said this, and you can sort of see it in the first photo, when I reverted to the KS3115 size small, I actually left about 1/3 inch extra seam allowance on the front and back side seams as I wasn't convinced that it wouldn't be too small. (You can see it on the original pattern back piece but, the front piece is a tracing of the original so those seam lines aren't there.)

It seems that I'm slightly larger than a Kwik Sew small, but nowhere near as wide as the Kwik Sew medium - which is quite a bit wider than the small, truth be told. I love that my T shirt sloper corroborated this exactly in its dimensions. How fun is that?

So, I've cut out lots of patterns - T shirts and KS 3115 exercise tops (see tomorrow's post for more deets). It remains to be seen if they fit though, if my t shirt sloper is anything to go by - and I did spend lots of time on it a while ago - then this armhole should give me the look I want without mega-gaping at the front.

Thoughts or feelings??

11 comments:

  1. Kristin, I can't wait to read how they fit!

    I like my armholes raised up too. All European patterns (and clothes) have high armholes, whereas almost all North American patterns (not sure about Jalie) and clothes have low armholes. And those low armholes make me look like Im a couple more sizes than I actually am. And makes me feel dowdy. And I can't raise my arms up without pulling the bodice up.

    About the time/date on the post, it could be the Timezone setting on your blog profile.
    after you logged in, Click on 'Design' on the top right most corner of the window, click on 'Settings'. Click on 'Language and Formatting'. And here, check if the Timezone is (GMT-5:00 Eastern time - Toronto).

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    1. It's in the next post! Promise. But I'll give you the preview scoop - pun intended - it works. I have to check on my blog profile cuz weird things have been happening for a few days vis a vis posting.

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  2. Wow you had to increase the underarm quite a bit. It's amazing that that area is so low on so many patterns.

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  3. i hate low armholes! doesn't help that i have skinny arms, but that's an area i frequently have to adjust in big 4 patterns. it almost sounds like the original armhole was drafted to accommodate a sleeve--as in they didn't modify their block for a sleeveless top. hope the new armhole works out for you!

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    1. It does - though my T shirt sloper has that height and it's designed for sleeves. I'm really surprised cuz Kwik Sew is known for really well drafted patterns that suit a wide range of frames with its sloper.

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  4. The armscye adjustment looks right to me.

    Does anyone really want armscyes that low and wide?

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    1. Well that bodes well! And I can't imagine that anyone does want an armhole that low and wide. It's a mess!

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  5. More proof, if we needed it,of just how invaluable a well fitting set of slopers is!

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  6. I hate that gaping at the armhole on sleeveless tops, so I did something very similar. It seems like raising and changing that curve has the affect of adding an "invisible armhole dart" and I actually first read about it as a solution for those needing an fba but who don't want a side bust dart. I don't know why I need it because normally I need an sba. Go figure. It just looks better.

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  7. It is like creating an invisible dart. I don't know how that is?! And I have no idea of why it works for you, needing an SBA. Hmmm...

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