The reason I'm showing them is to give you a sense of the degree of projection I have never before managed to produce in a hand-sewn bra:
If you know of a commercial pattern that approximates this shape, please let me know. But I suspect there isn't one.
Be assured this thing is held together by paperclips and a prayer. There's some really crap stitching happening, not to mention that I didn't know how to do a number of things so, while I learned on this go round, my boning was slightly too long, as were my wires. They are not technically enclosed. Oh well.
I refuse to get all down on my technique here because, seriously, I have never come so close to making a bra that I could wear. And you can't do it all, all at once when you're on this kind of learning curve. At least I can't.
Interestingly, the upper cups in this version are too large at the top, specifically where the upper cup meets the strap side of the lower cup (to which the strap attaches). I did use elastic stabilizer but I suspect I didn't pull it taut enough. Nonetheless, the last prototype was too big there also, in just the same way, and the lace was entirely different. I am pretty amazed that I know how to fix that (at least I think I do :-)). I didn't want to shorten the lower seam on the upper cup (the seam that attaches to both lower cups). My solution: a dart. I pinned the the dart into the fabric, compared it (with ruler) to the paper piece and then made a flat pattern version (wide side at the top of the cup and the dart point on the lower seam) that followed its slightly diagonal direction. I removed the dart by cutting one of the legs (almost to the point, but not quite) and then moving it on top of the other. Then I trued up the top of the cup.
Alterations for the next version:
- Narrower gore still that makes a slight concave curve at the base
- Shorter boning with different position
- Add length to back band at closures, narrow the closure edge by 1/4 inch on either side (so that it isn't too wide for the closures
- Wider straps
- The top cup alteration, see above
So, what do you think of this weird journey so far?