Getting Somewhere

I may have had a lot of trouble establishing the centre cable panel, but once I figured it out, this sweater really picked up speed:

It isn't blocked yet - nor is it finished - so it looks wonky...

Here it is, as yet without sleeves, modified as follows:

• Size small with 6 extra stitches (1.3") backwards loop cast on at the base of the armhole
• An extra vertical cable (those diamond shaped things in the centre of the sweater are the ones of which I write)

Were I to make this again, and I probably will, I will include the following additional modifications:

• Depending on how this blocks, I might add 2 more stitches at the base of the armhole.
• I'll knit the ribbing through the back loop to give the kind of tension and profile I achieved on this sweater.
• I'll add another 5 rows to the ribbing (for extra length and to highlight the rib).

Of course, I'm about to start the sleeves now, which are knit with short rows (a technique I've grown to appreciate rather than to fear), to give sleeve cap shaping.

My interim thoughts are these:

• The pattern is very nicely constructed, though I would not recommend it for new-to-cable knitters. I had a couple of (simple) cable projects under my belt and I was very stymied for quite some time. BTW, if you are a newish knitter and you need some support in establishing the panels, email me. Lord knows, I've considered them in just about every conceivable way.

• Other than the cables and the short rows, it is a fairly simple sweater. And with ready guidance, it's probably within the ability of a newish knitter (one who's made a few other sweaters).

• It's got a very modern shape. No question, it's the sexiest cable knit sweater I have ever seen. The waist shaping is extensive, which is to say, you shave 8 inches between the bust and waist. I LOVE that. But if you are straighter in the waist, I'd suggest modifying those decreases.

• Most notably, this sweater is very short. Um, how often do you hear me say that? I take a minimum of an inch out of the waist on practically every pattern. I needed an extra vertical cable repeat i.e. 30 rows and I still think my version could be longer. I did get vertical gauge, 6 rows to an inch, so this means I added 5 inches to its length. I think I could add one more inch and that would just take the sweater to my high hip. Important note: I haven't blocked this thing yet so that could really relax the knit and add the extra length I'm looking for. Other note: My gauge swatch didn't really change when I blocked it, but I didn't try to alter it...

• It's key to keep in mind that my bust most definitely ate up a lot of the sweater's length so, if you're busty, consider that you will likely need to an additional cable repeat.

I'm very pleased that I took the time to figure out the shaping. A medium would most certainly have been too big and the small, not big enough. In truth, I might move more in the direction of the medium (depending on blocking), when next I make this sweater, but only by a few additional stitches.


 About Finished (Post Blocked) Sizing

This is a good place for me to mention that I have struggled repeatedly to attain the right size on hand knit garments because yarn is so unpredictable when you a) knit a large volume of it and b) then proceed to wash it. I have only made one sweater that is too small. The rest have been varying versions of too big. Of the six full sweaters I've made (I'm not counting shrugs), which come from different eras and designers and with very different styles, that's not a great track record. And I always do the math! (This is why I make sweaters twice with the same yarn. It gives me a workable muslin, aka gift for a friend, and then on the second try, I am able to "perfect" the fit on me.)

I also generally make what aligns with the second smallest size (usually a small), although I alter bust and waist shaping as necessary. My challenge has nothing to do with proportion (my math and sense of my size and shape appear to be standing me in good stead on this account), it's about the ease that develops after blocking.

Indeed, my knowledge of yarn is not extensive. These outcomes could be a factor of the types of yarn or brands I've come across to date. For sure, Debbie Bliss yarn (my apparent fave) is the grow-iest yarn in the land. And definitely, Cascade 220 keeps its shape pretty well. But, just on sweaters, I've used six different yarns, of different composition, weight and from different manufacturers, and I've observed the same tendency in all of them.

So, today's questions:

• What yarns truly do not grow? Which are the worst offenders?
• Do you have this problem too?
• Are you making this sweater and, if yes, how's it going?
• What do you think of my version with its extra cable? Does it change the vibe of the sweater, as far as you're concerned?
• Oh, and please do check out my recent post wherein I ask for your feedback on the sport-weight sweater I intend to make soon. I'd love to know which sweater you like best!