Snapshot

Here's today's project. It's my second muslin of the Salme Sewing Patterns Peplum. Since I made the first wearable muslin, last weekend, I have worn it and clarified its fit issues.

Have I mentioned lately that everyone would do well to make a wearable muslin of everything and then to wear it in the real world? You learn more about what needs to change in a day of regular wear (of a garment in a fabric the drape of which will match your "final item") than you ever will from a cotton, half-done basted thing that you try on for 30 minutes in your sewing room to gain a sense of fit.

Back to muslin 2, this new version is an interesting and rather different spin on the last one:

• Length, darts and side seams up to armscye in size 12 (the original)
• Armscye, graded the 12 to a size 10
• Shoulders and neck, graded from a 10 to an 8
• Removed .5 inch above the bust on the front (to shorten from shoulder to bust apex where I there was way too much extra length for me)
• Removed .5 inch below the armscye on the back (to address substantive pooling)

Doncha love how I was all "this thing fits perfectly, right out of the box!"? Seriously, I wonder about my judgment sometimes.

I'm very close to posting about this theory I have - not a new one - and a potential way to address bust alterations for the narrow/buxom/short-waisted frame. But I need to clarify a few things first. This muslin should give me a lot more info to work with.

Finalement, that silk is very strangely-patterned (Tracy Ellen, 2007, according to the selvedge). Part of me thinks it's chic and interesting. Another part thinks it's entirely Pebbles and BamBam. I have no idea how it's going to look on me. I guess today will tell.

What do you think of it? Feel free to say you think it's hideous. I mean, you don't have to wear it :-)

PS: Have this whole other theory about peplums and the kinds of frames that should stay the hell away from them. That'll be in yet another post coming soon.

Will This Ever Be Over (Or Wearable)?

OK, I'm just about done with this baby. What is this, my 12 thousandth post on the topic?

At any rate, Jody's information was invaluable in getting me from crap to really not so bad but still not right. First look at the Convertible sweater photos and then I'll tell you what's going on and why I think this really may not be meant to be.

Observe the drag on the lower right side.

You can see the drag again on the back though, in truth, this photo just doesn't show the back to its advantage. This outcome is a thousand times better than the last (incorrect) seam up produced.

See that gape at the front? It's a problem.

And it's still more evident here.

Egad, part of me thinks it's all stretched to shit and I just need to block it. Part of me recognizes that this is where the combo of having made it a) too short and b) of my own (i.e. not the instruction's) gauge is going to come back and bite me on the ass. Or the small of my back.

What you can't see is that I've actually attached petersham ribbon on the inside waistband to give it more structure (the instructions suggest seam binding). When I tried seam binding it looked like an accordion bellows met a ruffle foot, so I went with a thicker, more substantial binding that would allow me to maximize length by minimizing the sweater turn-under. It still ripples a lot from the easing, but it could be worse.

At this point I don't know what to do next. I can't wear it like this, the gape is hideously unflattering. It makes me look like a cylinder. I could take a couple of angled tucks/darts or something at the front right but my last attempt at something like that yielded a hideous result.

Maybe this is a terrific learning experience but it's time to move on?

At any rate, I'm putting it back out here one more time in the hopes that one of you has a genius idea you'd be willing to share. Any suggestions are very appreciated. xo

Gauge The Situation: Yarn 1 And What To Knit With It

You'll recall, I was sick, I bought a lot of yarn (on mega-sale) and now I'm going to justify those purchases by making 4 cool projects with them. (Note: I'm happy to justify them.)

Just for kicks, let's start with yarn 1: the worsted weight:

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran

This is Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in dark grey. Is it the most sassy colour ever? Nah. Is it the most useful basic in the northern hemisphere? Possibly. And it's rather rich, don't you agree, made of a combo of merino (check!), cashmere (check!) and microfibre (ok, in this context).

Y'all may know that I really have a thing for Debbie Bliss yarn. I love its hand. It's springy, soft and it knits a beautiful stitch with lovely tension. But it's not perfect. Depending on the weight, it has been known to split while knitting and, egad, does this shit GROW. I'm half inclined to knit the smallest size humanly possible for every project for which I use Debbie Bliss yarns. Some weights and blends of this yarn grow more than others. But they all stretch excessively, in my experience. So be prepared.

It's a mark of the great features of this yarn that I can't stop myself from buying it and figuring out work-arounds.

It's not so much a worsted as an aran, of slightly thicker gauge than your average mid-weight. That's to say that it knits up at 18 stitches per 4 inches vs 20 stitches per 4 inches. But I tend to knit loosely so 18 easily turns into 20. I'm going to call it a worsted for the purposes of whatever I choose to make with it, though I really would do best to consider the slightly-heavier-than-worsted weight of the yarn I've purchased.

Which brings me to part 2 of this exercise: the part where you get to provide your excellent feedback!

Here are the worsted / aran weight patterns I have favourited in Ravelry. Note: I've cross-referenced them with all of my book patterns so I've considered all of them (Other note: My link feature in Blogger appears to be totally screwed tonight, so pls. check out my Favourites in Ravelry for details on all of these. I will link in this post when things go back to normal):

Betty MiniSweater

Asymmetrical Cabled Cardigan as modeled on the lovely Katy

Bright Star

The Inaugural Sweater

Inversion Cardigan

Mrs. Darcy Cardigan

Georgina Cardigan

Notice a theme?

They're all cardigans of some description. That's because I always need a little sweater that can double as a jacket. No matter how many I buy or make, it's simply not enough!

Now, I've considered the feasibility of these against my shape. Some, IMO, are better than others. But they all seem workable, so I'm putting it to you.

In light of the colour, the weight of yarn, the drape (if you're familiar with this yarn) and the info I've provided in the previous post / what you know of my style, which of these do you like best for me. Conversely, feel free to tell me which you think would be least flattering. If you prefer another sweater altogether, please point me to it - I wanna see!

PS: I realize this post may seem self-involved, but I ask these questions in the interests of provoking your thoughts and feedback about the planning elements that work together to yield, theoretically, a successful finished product. It's not risk-laden to consider these matters on behalf of someone else, especially if this is a new approach to your knitting (or sewing, for that matter).  And, of course, I welcome your valued input! So please, weigh in!

Gauge The Situation: How I Choose A Pattern

I find knitting planning much more fun than sewing planning though, why, I have no concrete idea.

I will say that Ravelry makes everything about knitting fun. I think I've posted about this Slate article before, no? I find it fascinating that a knitting site, of all things, is held up as a pillar of social networking by a non-knitting tech writer. Truthfully, though, Ravelry really is one of the most substantive platforms I have ever had the opportunity to experience.

In case you aren't aware, you can check out my Ravelry page here. I make all of my info open to the public cuz, well, I have a whole blog open to the public, what's so secret about an inventory of my knitting projects??

I favourite garments that appeal for future reference. If I'm really intrigued, I queue them - though, in truth, that doesn't mean they're going to get made particularly quickly, if ever. It seems the items that excite me tremendously in the moment tend to flare out over time.  I also love checking out the favourites of my friends. That's how I discover many garments.

The option to buy a good 80 per cent of the patterns you come across on Ravelry, economically and easily through the site itself, is part of its mass appeal. If you can't get a pattern on this site, it will advise you where you can find it. And that ability to drill-down catalog all of the relevant deets in one lovely spot, well, it's organization porn.

I've bought a lot of books, patterns and magazines since I began knitting. But most of the things I make are individual patterns purchased on Ravelry. Why? Well, why get a book if you can buy the exact thing you're looking for at a fraction of the cost? And, moreover, I LOVE that I can check out the finished projects of other knitters, many of whom model their finished wares.

When I see a lovely sweater on a lovely model with a figure quite different than mine, of course it's aspirational. However, when I see that same sweater, knitted and modeled by regular people, then I can really appreciate how much the model, and expert knitting of the garment, contributes to the actual appeal. A lot of great sweaters look horrible on a lot of great people. It's not the sweater's fault. It's not the body's fault. It's the combo of the two.

The best thing any crafter has going for herself is the ability to know what will work on her frame from the perspective of:

• proportion (i.e. long sweaters on short people can be challenging, short waisted ones on large-busted women can be a disaster)
• fit (you don't really want me to hit this over the head again, do you??)
• style (is this a twee item?, a modern one? a vintage one? etc.)
• fabric choice (in this case what yarn you use)

When you fit these modules together, every knitter has unique requirements. But being able to see something on another woman, having a similar style and/or shape, may really save you from a lot of wasted time.

So, for the purposes of this exercise, I'll tell you about me:

• I have a small, short frame, big breasts, a relatively narrow but short waist, proportionate hip-width, a derriere that is neither protuberant nor flat. My proportion is balanced to top-heavy. When I dress "well", you don't notice what isn't balanced. When I veer into questionable terrain, well, sometimes that appearance of balance is strained.

• Fit falls into two categories: the kind of fit I prefer, and the way I wear clothing to achieve that fit. I like closely fitted, but not too-tight clothes. 3 inches of negative ease in the bodice of a sweater does not concern me, it appeals. But when I mix 3 inches of negative ease with, for example, a multi-button down cardigan, the result can be a sweater that pulls at the chest - a serious pet peeve. I'd rather a top with no buttons, than one with lots of buttons I can't use without seeming as if my clothing doesn't fit. I subscribe to the viewpoint that, if it doesn't work in the shoulders, it doesn't work. So, in order to achieve fit in many of my sweaters, I need to make the shoulders smaller than the pattern instructs while either retaining, or increasing (with short rows) the bust circumference.

• I have a distinctive, but flexible style. I like things that are classic, but not bland. I like them too look rich (in terms of tone and because they seem expensive). I'm not into ultra-vintage, ultra-modern or ultra-twee looks. I don't want to seem like a character in my clothing. I like garments that have a little something different (interesting pattern, a nice collar, pretty buttons) but that don't stand out overly. I expect my clothes to support me, not to "wear me".

• Ah, the textile. This is the way that I truly express myself. I love SOFT with just the perfect drape. Drape is one of the most appealing concepts on the planet as far as I'm concerned. Cashmere=yum. Merino is good. Alpaca can be sneezy, but in proportion with other yarns, I like it. I do not wear cotton yarn; I hate anything nubby and textured. I don't tend to like variegated or multi-coloured yarns (not on me, anyway). I'm not keen on synthetics, either, though if they support a natural yarn and add to the drape or wearability, I can get with them. I'm strangely ambivalent about silk. I don't like how it tends to drag.

Already, I know so much about the patterns I'm going to look for in any weight or gauge:

• It's going to be body-skimming but not tight. Chances are I'll use a "slimmer" yarn, something in a worsted weight or smaller. It has to highlight my shoulders, waist and chest to their best effect.
• It's going to be made of something like merino, cashmere-blend or alpaca-blend.
• It's going to have a rich tone, maybe it will be brightly-coloured but it won't be multi-coloured (which tends to highlight areas of volume, fyi).
• It's going to be proportioned fit a short frame with narrow shoulders. (How will that be clear to me? Well, the pattern model will probably approximate the right shape for the item, but the real-life models will really drive the point home.)

So, armed with this useful info, all I've got to do is review my favourites (which presumes I have a Ravelry account and I use that feature), my books in my personal library and magazines or other resources.

The best thing is, I can find info about more or less anything on Ravelry that I can imagine. All my book patterns, my mag patterns - they'll probably be listed with pics on Ravelry too. (Man, I sense this post this sounds like an advertorial but I swear to you, those people don't know who I am.)  Oh, and if I want to see every detail of that garment (from sizing to yarn gauge to yarn types that work and the amounts of each you'll need for every size) all I need to do is to click on the relevant field.

The purpose of this diatribe isn't to sell you on the site (though the knitters who have constructed its content will certainly do that while you peruse all the details), but to tell you, as a knitter you owe it to yourself to use it fully to gain its benefit.

At this point, I'm simply playing the numbers. I know where I want to go with the prospective project (what hole in my wardrobe it's filling, why it should work). I type in my parameters for a detailed search and I see what pops up.

Knitter, know thyself. That chunky, glamour-fluffy plaid knit is probably not going to work, adorable as it may be in a pic. A rich neutral (ooooh aubergine, slate blue, deep grey) in a slimming cut is the thing you'll reach for everyday. If you can't wear it at least twice a week, put that pattern down. Cuz 150 hours is a lot of time you could spend doing something else.

Updated: That's What (Blog) Friends Are For

I know I say this intermittently, and I'm focused on directing my gratitude to the specific people who have supported me as honorary professors at "Kristin's Institute of Craft and Design", but I am able to make things - sometimes sassy (IMO), sometimes impressive, sometimes close to my heart, sometimes not so successful (in truth) - because of the unerring amount of really smart, technical feedback I get from my blog friends and readers.

I've been known to start to tear-up when I talk about it at a dinner party with an acquaintance (I blame it on allergies). And you should know, there is not one piece of feedback I've ever received from y'all that I haven't accepted thankfully and seriously considered - if not actually attempted. Not a day goes by when I don't say to Scott, OMG ____ just totally explained the issue / solved the problem / provided a new spin on that snag. I fucking love this community. And he never fails to counter with, You sure are the poster girl for the positive internet experience. (I think he's a little bit envious.)

Note: I love non-crafters in a whole different way. I actually think you are saints to stay with this blog and comment when you like something, even though the weird rabbit hole I've fallen into is frequently technical and irrelevant. You make me feel like maybe I have cross-appeal :-) And, of course, I need all the perspectives to fully experience every project.  Also, you tend to see things independent of the process (that Kristin spell-binder). In the end, it's a freakin' top. You don't necessarily care about the minutiae of how it was made, but you do know if it works.

Anyway, before I start sobbing from happiness, let me tell you about a recent act of internet kindness.

You know Jody. She's the one with Couture Allure Vintage, that site I link to sometimes. She has a fascinating blog where she shows vintage fashion photos and discusses brands in some detail. She also manages to find the most AWESOME vintage clothing on a near constant schedule, which she sells online. I've been known to suggest she's made a pact with some fairies but I think it's more likely that she uses her fashion design degree, networks and natural style to stock and run a really professional online boutique.

Anyway, I can't even remember if Jody knits. But she managed to look at a photo of my finished Convertible sweater and spot what she thought my problem might be. Unsurprisingly, I put it together incorrectly. This is why you need to have friends who are a) experts in vintage McCardell and having b) fashion design degrees!

So, long story long, I spent last night pulling the sweater apart - the seams, not the knit fabric! - and I'm going to follow her advice today to see if I can produce the garment that the pattern had in mind.

In my defense, although Jody figured this out without having even read the pattern and then, when she did read it, was able to spot what I'd done wrong right away, she did say that the instructions were not good and that she could totally see why I had misunderstood them. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

So, stay tuned for an update. I REALLY hope I can salvage 150 hours and produce a successful finished garment. Even if my next attempt doesn't yield something that fits, at least I will have put it all together as the designer intended and I have experienced yet another beautiful example of blog kindness.

Update: Reader, it worked!! I mean, this thing is definitely too short, as my math told me it would be, so it may not be mine in the end. But, as I mentioned to Jody, I'm amazed that I experienced (after all of my work and faith through out this process) such a failure of imagination at the last minute. What a life lesson. I've only done the initial seaming, the finishing is yet to occur. But stay tuned for another photo soon.

A Preview of the Salme Peplum Top Wearable Muslin

Egad, I'm loath to show hanger shots of anything, much less this very drapey top, but it won't fit on my dress form (the dress form's shoulders are too wide) and I'm too wretched-looking from this cold to even dream of being seen on the internet. (I promise to take a real-life photo soon.)

So, to get it over with, here are some inferior photos of the wearable muslin I'm calling Peppy:

It's really hard to get wrinkles out of this without adding more wrinkles. You can not see them when the blouse is worn.

Here's the bias tape I made in lieu of lining this muslin

I'm pretty proud of the workmanship inside. Not bad for an unlined garment with lots of shaping. And I was working without a pattern. That blue thing is a little button.

The peplum, wrong side. I'm very happy with how it turned out - both in terms of drape and in terms of workmanship.

OK, in the end, (of course) it does not fit perfectly without so much as an adjustment. I like to get excited over the impossible.

But it's a very wearable muslin because the changes it requires are evident and none of them is too complex. Note: I haven't made the next version - which I will do in exactly the same way (unlined) - so I haven't posted yet about an alteration I've discovered in my bodice fitting travels. Stay tuned - that piece is mega-long, I mean, riveting.

What Doesn't Fit Optimally in This First Attempt (To Be Adjusted):

There's an argument to be made that I should have constructed the size 10 (I made the 12), but I have a theory about why the 12 was the better size to start with. It goes along with the post about that alteration (see above). Having said that, on the 12, here are the muslin 1 fit issues:

• The shoulders are slightly too wide and create a fall to the neckline that is slightly too long (I'm being picky)
• The side seams need to be taken in, but symmetrically. Because I was fooling around with fit as I went, I do have larger SAs on the zipper side than on the (first-to-be-seamed) other side. This won't happen on my next go around. It was an unavoidable muslin-hazard.
• There is pooling in the lower back
• I used an 8" zip (I had it on hand and this was a stash-busting exercise). The pattern called for a 10" so now I have to wiggle the waistline over my tits to get it on. Next time I listen to to the instructions.

Even with these detractors, this thing makes a fine wearable muslin and I'll get some use out of it - at least until I make a better one, which will hopefully be very soon. It's next on my list.

The Good:

• This is a freakin' gorgeous pattern that yields a versatile and elegant result.
• It works well on a small frame with large breasts.
• The peplum is very a la mode.
•  I've figured out how to make it without lining it - now I have options (I find lining too thick in most scenarios). Note that I made my own bias tape - Lord how I've resisted being lured into this. And I used Tasia's very useful method for applying it. Takes the miserable part, of tri-folding the tape, out of the equation.

The Less Good:

•  From where I'm sitting, there's not much to hate here. I know that the instructions (when I finally follow them to make the lined version) are not going to be particularly detailed. On this topic, there are few useful technical drawings so I'd say the pattern instructions are its main detractor. (Note: I reserve the right to change my mind.)
• It's deceptively simple and, by that, I mean it looks very easy to make but it's not. (See below.)

Why This Isn't a Beginner Pattern or a Pattern for a Beginner:

Rightly, this pattern is marked Intermediate, though a keen beginner might think: "Hey, there's not so much going on. I can deal with three simple pieces and no sleeves! But take heed, beginners. I do suggest you wait till you have a year or two under your belt (or until you've sewn quite a few tops) before you take this on. Note: I'm generally not one to suggest people limit their imaginations. I'm just trying to give a realistic interpretation of why this may not be a piece of cake for a novice.

I've already discussed how the instructions aren't detailed. Beginners tend to rely on instructions more than other resources, based on what I've read and seen and done, and they can't rely much on sewing technique or on the experience of the drape and fall properties of fabric and ease.

The beauty of this pattern is in the graceful fall of the garment. In order to achieve it you need a) the right fabric - having the right weight and sheen and feel and b) solid construction abilities i.e. a steady hand, a nice stitch.

Furthermore, make this too large or too small and it will really undercut the impact. I mean, you can mess with the fit a little, but its beauty is in how it displays your own form and symmetry (or the impression of symmetry if you use your excellent fitting skills). Beginners aren't universally naturals at alterations.

In terms of actual techniques you need to know - without much help from the instructions - there are all of the beginner ones such as seaming and cutting and darting etc. And then there are these:

• Lining a garment
• Cutting and draping a bias cut peplum onto a straight grain bodice.
• Inserting a zipper into the side waist of the straight grain bodice that continues into the bias-cut peplum - which means you really need to interface the seam allowances, preferably with organza.
• Hemming a very wavy peplum. This is not for the faint of heart. It requires easing a very large length into a considerably smaller length. It took me more than an hour to do and I have done this numerous times, in numerous garments, using numerous techniques. Note: If you understand how it works, it's not hard. But it's time consuming and it's a learned-skill.

So, I hope this gives you a preliminary perspective on a top that hasn't seen much play in the online sewing universe. You have to trust me when I say that, even with bad photos and required alterations, it's a very attractive garment and it's got a lot of potential.

What do you think?

Gauge the Situation: An Intro

You know when you're lying on the couch, feeling sick, and online stores send you sale notices to your email, and you have a chance to pay attention to them, for a change. And then, because you're so smart bored, you come up with an elaborate way to justify the hefty purchase of some pounds of product (in this case yarn) and a blog series is born.

Not just a blog series, people. This one is sure to go on (intermittently) for quite some time. Cuz I have practically closed out WEBS.

More on that to follow, but first let me tell you how I envision this.

My last knitting project didn't go as planned. Oh, I'm still feeling that sting, but it really taught me something about how choosing one's project wisely is half way to success. It gave me a strong sense of why many other projects I've chosen have worked so well, comparatively. I started to see a connection between particular garments and a positive outcome.  In this series, I intend to share with you my project choice rationale - the things I need to see (at this early stage of my knitting experience) in order to feel confident I have some reasonable chance of success - and the specific way I go about finding my next undertaking.

One of the things I did enjoy about the Convertible sweater was working with very thin yarn and needles. I've only done this once before. I do enjoy a tiny knit, but it has some obvious detractors. I mean, it took a zillion hours to determine that the project wasn't meant to be my finest. The project I completed just before this was the City Cardigan (my second attempt). I LOVED knitting this. Partly that's cuz I was on vacation (which didn't hurt), but I loved working with a nice worsted. Sure does speed things along, and the outcome has a nice drape. By contrast, I really enjoyed the chunky-weight Glen Haven shawl (I wear this all the time - even over jackets - and people dig it). It occurs to me that different gauges (and different types of garments, of course) bring a sort of tactile dynamism to knitting. It got me thinking about how cool it would be to work my way through a series of garments using different weights of wool. In this series, I'll show you the wool I've purchased in 4 different weights (worsted, DK, sport and fingering) against a variety of potential projects to solicit your input about which one might work best, and why.

Needless to say, this will not make for quick group of articles. I carefully considered how much yarn to buy to ensure I'll have at least enough for each of 4 projects and I'll probably have yarn enough left over to make other, smaller things - Xmas gifts, perhaps. Sometimes you'll hear a lot about this, I imagine, sometimes you'll hear a lot about sewing (which is ramping up and more fun deets as soon as I'm up to finishing some things). But natch, in this series you'll hear about my progress in knitting 4 garments, and my feelings about what's working / challenging - particularly as pertains to the weight and tactile properties of each yarn. Is there an "ideal (yarn) weight"? We'll have to see!

It goes without saying that I am not an advanced knitter. I can't add to the pantheon of technique or tutorials, but I do have a strong ability to organize projects and to get through the (sometimes anxiety-provoking) minutiae. In this series, my goal is to talk about how I manage my knitting projects - how I maintain momentum and optimism despite the fact that I am a novice at this craft and I generally have no idea of what's coming next. People often tell me that they start knitting but it all seems so overwhelming, so they hide a half-finished franken-garment in a closet and run to get their scarf at Club Monaco. (BTW, CM does awesome scarves...)

Let me leave you with one other thought: In my opinion, if I don't wear it, I might as well not have bothered. Of course, I learn massive amounts with each experience so I'm not suggesting it isn't all worth it on many levels. But what I'm saying is that I make things to wear them. I want them to function in my wardrobe as seamlessly as that cashmere sweater I bought at Holt Renfrew or my vintage Ports dress or my jeans. I also make things because it's fun and I'm compulsive and I love to learn and I'm a whore for compliments. I'm complicated.

I've discovered that knitting leads to some very practical garments and some very impractical ones. Sewn items, by comparison, seem more inevitably wearable. Let's get things started by discussing your own personal goals when knitting. Why do you do it? Of course, this inevitably leads to the process vs product knitter discussion, but I'm hoping we can skew the parameters a little. What I mean is: Are you looking for a handmade-seeming item. Is it about using chichi yarns or whatever you can find? Do you just want something to do with your hands? Are you drawn to a certain weight of yarn because you just love to pet it? Do you have secret urge to be a famous sweater-designer?

On the flip side, if you don't knit - if you're one of those people with a dust bunny in the closet - why DON'T you do it? What puts you off?

And pls. let me know if you like this concept - I want to make sure it suits you and to tailor it to reader-needs and desires.