Convertible is Relative

Man, when knitting fails, it does so writ large. Undoubtedly, the McCardell Convertible sweater is in the top 5 of the least successful garments I've made. And given how long it took to make, it may just head the list.

Oh, I suppose it looks ok when I tie it in front (not a great tactic vis a vis maintenance of hand-knit fabric):

But the back is an utter disaster, which I cannot bring myself to show you (read on for the deets).

Honestly, I have no idea if I'll actually ever wear this thing but I can't bear to throw it out right now. On the plus side, if I do, by some miracle, manage to incorporate it into my wardrobe, at least I won't feel compelled to treat it preciously.

We'll never know - as I don't intend to waste another minute on the pattern - if that's what sucks or if the alterations are to blame. According to this thoughtful post, my money's on the alterations:

Let's say that your pattern instructions direct you to create a sloped edge by decreasing 1 stitch every row over 10 rows, 10 times: a total of 10 stitches decreased over 10 rows. When knit at 5.5 stitches and 7.5 rows per inch, that's 1.8 inches difference horizontally, and 1.33 inches vertically, or a length of 2.25 inches forming an angle of 36.26 degrees with the horizontal. But if you decided to resize your pattern by changing your gauge to 4.5 stitches and 6 rows per inch, you'd wind up with 2.2 inches horizontally and 1.6 inches vertically, or a length of 2.72 inches forming an angle of 53 degrees.

This difference may have an impact on the way your garment is put together, causing seams to not fit together correctly, or altering the pitch of the sleeves when they're joined to the garment. The difference may not be significant, and thanks to the stretch of knit fabric, you might be able to fudge it; but there are circumstances where changing the stitch gauge and not altering the pattern can potentially result in a misfitting garment.

There are too many fit challenges to dwell on, but the main ones are these:

• The side seams pull forward towards the centre front of the garment when the front is wrapped even the smallest amount. 
• The fit under the arms is too big (Remember, this garment came together like a sewn pattern - 2 wacky looking pieces seamed at the centre back and side seams / sleeves. The sleeves are kimono-style aka part of the bodice / not sewn in.)
• The back of the garment - even when the front is wrapped - is so big, it resembles a swing coat more than anything. Not good when you're making a fitted surplice sweater. I ended up taking 2 tucks in the back on either side of the centre seam (each extending about 6 inches in length) which made things wearable, if no less dire. Of course, it looks totally "handmade" as a result. Kiss of death in my book.

I've never before felt the wrath of the knitting gauge gods, but I'd do well to choose my future patterns more wisely:

• It's going to be a while before I tackle another vintage pattern - at least one that hasn't been modernized by a skilled (read: living) designer.
• I'm never going to make another pattern with no schematic, no pattern drafter (to consult with) and no reviews online. That's just stupid.
• It's one thing to alter, for example, width gauge (up or down an inch or 2 at most), when you're working with a pattern designed on the straight of grain. Attempting it on a garment, seamed on the bias, is insane. To my credit, I didn't realize this was what I was undertaking until a long way into the project. Not being able to envision how the pattern pieces were to go together, cuz there's nothing - not even a full page of instructions - to pave the way, makes it hard to tell what's what. Not that I'm any less to blame.

Even given all of this fit badness, with most of my knitting attempts, I've learned tons from the first garment (the wearable muslin) and have successfully been able to apply that knowledge to the second version. I suppose might be able to do it again with another try at this sweater, but there are too many unknowns which may adversely affect it: the impact of the bias cut, the next batch of yarn I use (I don't much love the finished feel of the Lorna's) and the gauge that new yarn will have / its drape.

You've got to know when your skill set - plotted against your fortitude - is up to a challenge. I don't generally go the easy route, I hope you would agree. But I don't like to set myself up for failure.

PS: For those of you who are curious about the look of the finished pieces, before seaming, here you go:

Totally bizarre, no?

Another Way To Get Your Own McCardell

When I clicked on Couture Allure this morning, I knew my eyes did not deceive me.

Photo and garment courtesy of Couture Allure Vintage

That designer was most definitely the champion of the surplice. Do you see the elements of the sweater in this bodice? Look at the drape of the wrap and how it's carried into the fluted shape of the skirt.

It's a good thing this dress would be too small for me or I do not know how I could resist. It is a wearable piece of history.

On the topic of the sweater, Lord, this thing is apparently endless. I started to freak out about the amount of yarn I had left (despite my careful calculation, it was close to the wire people) and cut a few additional rows out of the second side. Of course, math doesn't lie. It was unnecessary and now I may have compromised the fit still further. I was trying to keep the faith, really I was, but I sucked at math in school and I must have had a flash-back or something.

After 3 hours I didn't account for (?!) the fabric is knitted and it's time to prep it, seam it, hem it and finish it. I have to speculate it's going to take me far longer than I can imagine right now. That's how it goes with this garment.

And quick update on the peplum top: I've cut out the muslin fabric (the taupe fabric here) in a straight 12 and serged everything, in the extremely weird event that the first attempt fits out of the box. (If it fits, with finished - if not pretty - edges I will be able to wear it instead of merely sacrificing it to the muslin goddess.) The fabric, while it didn't thrill me before I cut into it, has a lovely drape so it would be nice not to have to scrap it. It would also be nice to figure out a way to make this top without lining it, in case I want a fast garment that doesn't take up much fabric.

Initial impression: The instructions are weak. I'm almost inclined to just make the garment without attempting to follow them - and, people, I'm an instructions-follower! I don't go off-road unless I absolutely have to. There's no way to use them to make the muslin, particularly, because without the lining the order of operations (and the actual operations, natch) are somewhat-to-entirely different.

If the stars align, I'll make a muslin and finish a sweater today but, really, what are the odds of that. I don't know if I've gone soft after my crafting summer-hours or if I'm underestimating the volume of work ahead of me. Maybe I'm starting to understand that, what you don't finish today, you finish tomorrow. (There's always another project.)

So, today's questions: What do you think of that spectacular dress?? What do you think of the surplice neckline, in general?

And for the crafters, specifically: Have you been on slow-gear lately? Do you feel that finishing things quickly undercuts your experience or adds to it? Do you work more quickly in the winter?

Pool of the Week

I'm not picky, I'd take the rest of the house too...

All photos from Desire to Inspire

People, get your swim on. There ain't much longer in this season...

Tip Top

It must be the change in the amount of daylight, or the sun's angle in the sky, but my brain has really kicked into craft gear. I can't stop thinking about upcoming projects. Some might call it rumination. I like to call it creativity.  At any rate, here's where I'm at:

The Peplum Top

Since I didn't hear back from the pattern designer, I opted to cut out the Salme paper pattern in a size 12.  (Update: Elisa, pattern designer, just replied with very helpful feedback. She thought she had replied to my question but her email got shuffled to her drafts. More on this feedback in a later post.) S, my fitting friend, gave me this awesome double pencil gizmo that lets you trace the outside of your pattern while simultaneously drawing a 5/8" seam allowance. Really made that part of the job less onerous than usual. It took about an hour to tape the paper, cut the 12, tape it to tracing paper and add the seam allowances. Very reasonable, IMO.  

What I like about patterns that don't include SAs is that it's easy to see what the finished garment dimensions will be because you can actually observe the outer edge of the pattern, minus those allowances. I suspect the 12 is going to be too large, though it remains to be seen. It would appear that the shoulders will be 16" (a good inch wider than mine) and the bust will be 41" (2.5" larger than mine). Of course, how this will fit is much more ephemeral than simple flat pattern math so I'm going to have to make a muslin to check it out. (Ain't avoiding that, apparently.)

It occurs to me that, for my body - in my experience, so far  - I'd rather cut to fit the bust and then grade all the other areas down a size - exactly what the experts tell you NOT to do. Thing is, the more I learn about my shape, as it interacts with various patterns, the more I discover that I am generally the larger size in the bust only and the smaller size everywhere else. I think this is a strange feature of my narrow proportions. Maybe an FBA won't work for me because I really just need a bit more space in the bust (rather than everywhere). Anyway, this is my latest experiment, based on the learning I've done on bodice fitting in the past few months. Of course, were I draping or drafting to fit my exact size, or working with someone else (S is very occupied at the moment and we're not well set up in my sewga room with the reno) then I would likely approach this another way. But different circumstances call for different measures. And all learning is invaluable.

Moving onto the fun part, here's how I've decided to a) use my stash fabric to b) make something sassy:

Remember this garment:

It was made of 2 fairly expensive fabrics - navy lace and navy silk charmeuse. It just so happens that I have just enough left of each to make this top.  Instructions for the peplum top indicate that the top is lined (the finishing method). Lace, being see-through, will not hide ragged seams, so I will need to underline the lace with the charmeuse in order to create the fashion shell. (Note to reader: Haven't done this before so I wonder how it's going to go.)

Natch, that leaves me still in search of a lining. What to do?

Well, I'm going to use this silk charmeuse, presuming it's compatible with the weight of the navy:

It's an unusual pairing, but I'm motivated to give it a go.

In summary, vis a vis the peplum top, I've got 2 things to work on: fitting this garment (muslin-process) and then making it up. I'm hopeful I can get through the fitting process this weekend.

The Sweater

The other thing to occupy my attention this weekend is finishing the McCardell Convertible. I hope to have the final knitting done tonight or tomorrow. I've sure made a lot of progress in the last 2 days. After this, I still have to block (trying to determine which method to use), press, seam, hem, use ribbon or seam binding on the hem and insert the closure.

I have to say that the second side has gone WAY faster than the first, partly because I figured out how everything will work while making the first side (so I could apply it to the second) and partly because of the detailed instructions I wrote for myself. 

I really hope this thing is going to be wearable - though I'd be wise not to get my hopes up too high. As a distant alternative, I suppose I can hope that it will work perfectly on someone else. You know you've become some crazy-ass crafter when you'll consider your project to have been a success if it teaches you how to avoid pitfalls in your next version.

Today's question: What do you think of the strange pairing on the peplum top?

My Next Project

You know how I love the shopping online and buying vintage and handmade things. Well, Etsy really covers all my bases which is why I try so hard to stay away from it. Inevitably, every couple of months, I have a moment (aka a week where I find 8300 awesome things I must own) and it's all Etsy, all the time. 

It's a particularly fabulous resource for the home crafter. 

What I've discovered is that, if you "need" something, you can probably find it gently worn / dead stock / vintage at a very good price, especially if you're willing to do the research. I've also found the service to be incomparably professional. Often, when I email a seller to request a discount on shipping (you know how I hate mark up on that element of any purchase), he or she will offer it at cost, which can easily delete 10 bucks from the final price. Some sellers do not take returns, while others are very happy to reclaim their merchandise if it doesn't work for you. I am careful when ordering tricky-to-fit things i.e. shoes (you can get AWESOME, almost new, designer shoes for a fraction of the cost) or clothing.

The categories I have so far experimented with include: jewelry (generally vintage, sterling silver), books (so many awesome vintage books to be had. How I love these!), potions (i.e. all-natural face serum), sewing supplies and (very recently i.e. the parcels haven't arrived yet) vintage clothing and shoes. FYI, I rarely spend more than 30 bucks on any given item (including shipping) and the most I've spent on anything, by far, is $95.00. My point is that this is a place where you can have a terrific time, buy yourself something sweet and not even vaguely break the bank. FYI, you can also break the bank.

What does this have to do with the next thing I'm going to sew?

Well, I discovered this store and purchased a pattern last night:

Yes, it's one of those tape-together-for-yourself patterns, a format I don't love, but it's only got 3 pieces. I will need to add seam allowances, so I'll end up doing some extra work, however I can manage this in the evening (unlike sewing which is too energy-intensive after a day at the office).  I haven't found any reviews of this top, but I have emailed the designer to ask her what body-shape she based the sloper on, to get a sense of whether I should make the 10 or 12. As it has no sleeves to mess with the armscye fit, I suspect the 12 might work better (bust size is exactly mine). It also has side darts and darts below the bust so that I can (hopefully) easily work around my curves.

There are a few reviews online for this company, and none I can find for this top, but they're all good. However, they do indicate that the designer assumes that you know a fair bit about sewing, even with Beginner patterns. I'll keep you posted as I start making this garment.

You may wonder why I've chosen an entirely new pattern from a new-to-me pattern company though I've said I don't want to fiddle with fit. Beats me. I just can't get psyched by anything in my inventory. This top seems like a good staple that will work in 3 of the fabrics I've already got hanging around. (It calls for lining, somewhat concerningly, as I don't know if I'll need to go out and find some, or if I can just use self fabric to accomplish this task. It does raise concerns about how much fabric I have vs what I will require. Hmmm...) I appreciate the opportunity to adjust size on the basis of lots of darts. My bodice fitting project, though still in process, has taught me that my shape is best suited to a fitted woven top with vertical waist darts. I like that this pattern has already built them in. And, who doesn't love a peplum? It's kind of fancy but in an easy way. I sense the top will work well under jackets or with jeans.  As well, I'm happy to support small business, wherever I find it, so I really hope this garment works well on me. Elisa, the owner, stocks a variety of rather wearable and cute designs which intrigue me.

So, let's get the ball rolling... 

For sewists: Have you tried Salme Sewing Patterns and, if so, what do you think? How do you like the look of this pattern? Do you suppose I can use self-fabric for lining? 

And for everyone: How do you feel about online shopping? Are you an etsy-holic? What kinds of stuff are you comfortable buying sight unseen?

Let's talk!

Cycles

The last time I owned a bike it was 1989. I was at U of T and I rode it daily during the infamous, 41-day TTC strike. I was living at Clinton and Harbord then, my first apartment, in a crazy flat with floors so crooked that it was like being in a fun-house. I locked my bike to my 90-something landlady's wooden front porch (which she objected to, on the principle that it would get stolen). Sometime during the strike, it was stolen from the porch. I assure you, thereafter, she continually told me so.

My father had bought me the bike a few years earlier. It was one of those perfunctory, parental purchases when, as an adolescent, I lived in The Kingsway. Lord, I hated that neighbourhood. It was so isolated, to my teenaged-perspective. I went to school at the other end of the city. The bicycle (which I barely remember the look of, in truth) was my ticket to freedom. I remember riding it everywhere, for hours at a time. I'd zoom along while singing along loudly to my Walkman. I knew every cadence, every syncopated beat of every song on Zenyatta Mondatta. (On a side note: I remember begging my parents to be able to go to the Police Picnic, but I was too young. My husband, 6 years older than me, felt the same way in 1983. Alas, he couldn't score a ticket; it's a sad, near-miss we share.)

By the time my bike was stolen, I didn't have the appetite - or the funds - to replace it. I suppose I could have asked my father for a new one, but I felt violated by the theft. I fumed internally; it was beyond my comprehension (having grown up in affluent areas with absolutely no crime) that someone might steal something I owned (not that I'd worked to pay for it, mind you). So I started to walk - an activity that has served me well, nay saved my anxiety-prone ass with its meditative quality, for many years.

Fast-forward numerous flats and houses and decades and circumstance. When M went to visit my parents for the summer, I started to use her bicycle to get to work. It was expedient. (I can be from point A to point B in 10 minutes, give or take. My workplace is very cycle-friendly and there's a sheltered lock-up area. My route has bike paths, to increase safety and ease-of-travel.) Scott, who cycles everywhere, has been bitching at me for years to give it another go. Having never known me as an avid cyclist, he can barely believe how easily I've adapted.

Y'all know me by now. When I decide to do something, I do it.

M came home 2 days ago, and 3 hours later I bought a bike. (Scott said, as he very generously paid for it, I'm surprised it took you so long.) He'd found it for me 6 weeks ago, just after M left for North Carolina. It happens it was still at the store when I was finally ready to commit:

Fuji Crosstown 4.0. It's cream and green ombre with painted flowers!

This baby is SO DISCO. Oh, the mega-low standover makes it unbelievably comfortable for urban transport. The seat is fluffy soft. There are 7 gears (perfect for city riding). Mine has an awesome kick-stand, fenders (to keep crap off my clothes), a solar/crank front light, a tail-light - both removable. I got a great front basket, a cool (long and flexible) lock and a terrific helmet. Note: The helmet is ugly but it fits really well and it protects my brain, which I care about.

Don't misunderstand: I'm a fair-weather rider, to be sure. But I am psyched to have the opportunity to travel the city with Scott and M, to get myself hither and yon, to be just about everywhere in 10 minutes, should I so choose.

Everything old is new again, I guess. (Specifically my porch railing - metal rather than wood.)

So, what do you think? Cool ride? Do you cycle on a regular basis? If so, do share your experience...

A Review of My Fabric Inventory

The best way to figure out what you want to make, is to see what you've got hanging around. (Rachel's done it particularly well, lately.)

I visited with my stash today, pulling out the larger lots of fabric. I don't intend to get carried along on the little wings of half a yard.

Here are my best options:

Silk Crepe - About 1.25 yards (every shot was blurry for some unfathomable reason...)

Synthetic (like a heavy silk) - 2 yards

Modal - 2.5 yards

Synthetic (like a heavy silk, but with firmer hand and less drape than the electric blue above) - 2.5 yards

Synthetic - thin-gauge sweater knit with good drape - 2 yards

Insanely beautiful reversible cashmere knit, another wonderful gift from Mardel - 2.5 yards

As you can see, everything I've got in stock is best for making a dress or a top. Next up, I've got to determine what patterns I might use for each of these. But, again, if you've got any suggestions, I'm happy to hear them!