Summer Crafting: Finished Object (Nettie Bodysuit x3)

Oooh... Have a gander at my new rainbow pretties!

Three versions of the Nettie Bodysuit: Animal print and blue modal are 3/4 sleeve and coral is short-sleeved 

(On a side note, does that first sentence make me sound vaguely like a mid-century Cockney washerwoman or a Disney character?)

Honestly, could these things be any more fun? Like if I tried?

I have written quite a tome about it already, here. But, darlings, we've only just begun. Cuz I have so much more to say...

For the record, these Netties are, essentially, a hybrid: the top portion of the Lady Skater (or, should I say, the top portion of the Lady Skater as altered to match my T shirt sloper) merged with the Nettie pattern bodysuit bottom.

What I'll Do Next Time(s):

• For sure, next time, I will alter the neckline, just for kicks. I think a lower scoop could be just the thing for summer evenings - though I wouldn't wear it in the sun (and really, a scoopy scoop neck runs the risk of being rather risque on me). I also think I'll make a sleeveless version, which I could easily do with a solid half metre of 60" wide fabric.

• I will also experiment with changing the leg line. I believe that something higher (or at very least not banded) would work a lot better under clothes. The leg on these is vaguely visible under skinny jeans. That's not a win, in my books. I see some picot elastic and a little redesign in my future.

What I Can Say About Fabric Choice and Grain:

• Well, I ran the gamut with this project. I used a thick modal with great recovery, a thin rayon jersey in a solid print and an in-between, animal-print rayon jersey. What's my take? I know it's not rocket science, but if you have anything to hide, go with the thicker fabrics. Note: prints also hide a multitude. In a best case scenario, go with a thick t shirt fabric that has a good amount of Lycra. It will recover optimally and will cling without highlighting bumps. A substantial rayon jersey is also fine, unless you're really aiming for camouflage. I can't emphasize this enough: Some (albeit very cute) painted-on pattern, mid-weight cotton with mediocre recovery is probably not going to do the trick. This is the time to spend if it's in your budget.

• I felt no compunction about going crazy cutting along every possible grain line (given that I was working with ends of stash fabric). Sure, I took the greatest number of liberties with the fabric which should have been most carefully considered (the coral, thin jersey) - and I knew that wasn't wise - but it was a calculated risk. And you know what? On slender days, or with a cardigan, that coral one is going to work just fine. What I'll say for the coral is that the recovery is very good.

• In terms of the crotch construction, I recommend that the stabilizing piece (that against which one applies the snaps) be made of very durable, not overly fussy or luxe fabric. I suggest it should be something with NO mechanical stretch. This piece needs to keep its shape in order for this garment to last because you're going to be tugging at the snaps every time you hit the washroom. And, on the topic of the snaps, I urge you to get the kind that hammer together. Sew in snaps will likely give, eventually, on a part of the garment taking this amount of stress.

A Bit About Each Version

Jewel Toned Modal: Well, this was made from the fabric of the century, which is no doubt why I discovered 2 tiny holes (one more of a pull) in the upper arm (thankfully back arm by armscye). Why is it that the likelihood of fabric booboos is inversely proportional to one's love of a particular fabric and one's inability to replace it? I darned the holes (the existence of which is a complete mystery, those holes weren't there when I cut the fabric, I'm sure). It was too late to recut a sleeve though I had enough fabric. Unstitching a serged seam from the bodice (which was cut to size by the serger during the first sleeve attachment) would have likely left me with more issues than simply fixing the holes. I don't think anyone will notice them but I do. And I'm irritated. Other than that, this fabric was a dream to work with and the relatively dark and saturated colour is figure-flattering.  

Coral Rayon Jersey:  I do like this short-sleeved version more than I thought I would. And, given how willy-nilly I cut this thing (some on bias, some on straight, some on cross grain), it's a miracle it's wearable. But I can feel the fit issue in the back bodice, which isn't as stretchy as the front bodice. Furthermore, the end result is just a bit too flimsy to call it excellent. Interestingly, this jersey wasn't too flimsy for the Issy Top, which I also made with this yardage. But it is for a garment that's exceedingly fitted and doesn't have any distracting features to call attention away from one's body in all of its gorgeousness. Oh, and word to the wise, light colours really do highlight imperfection.

The Animal-Print Jersey: This one was cut on cross and straight grains, but not haphazardly (I had more of the fabric in a better format than in the case of the coral version). It's also a stretchier rayon jersey than the coral, and it's got more heft. Add this to the fact that the pattern both highlights good features and somehow yet distracts and, I have to say, I think I like this version best. I wouldn't have thought that this garment would be better in a print than in a solid but I can really see how it ups the excitement factor (and tones down the form). If you've got a serious rack or if you're an old-school professional in a conservative field, making this garment using patterned fabric could be just the thing.

As I intend to wear these often, as soon as the weather permits (which, dubiously, could be much of the summer - I wore the jewel toned version today with a cardigan?!), no doubt there will be photos of me wearing them. This batch may be a bit harder to style than I imagined because the leg opening bands are observable under some of the bottoms I favour. So I would recommend, if not first go around, then second time you make this: Consider altering the cut of the leg openings and/or the method of binding them.

And that's this project. For now. Thoughts or feelings?

Net Fantastic

OK, I love the Nettie. I knew I would, which is why I bought it 30 seconds after it became available. My goal was to tackle some involved projects this summer, prior to the sorbet that (I hoped) the Nettie would be. But fuck hard work. I'm not into delayed gratification.

Or moderation.

Which is why I have an assembly line going:

But let's begin at the Beguine. Yesterday I invested the work in taping, cutting and altering the pattern before cutting out the remainder of my animal print rayon jersey (truly a wonderful fabric), which eventually produced this:

I know, I'm not wearing it even though, on me, it looks all kinds of HOT. But I am too hideous this weekend for the camera.

Ooooh, fun snaps! Read on for more about these...

My Pattern Alterations:

Note: I made the size 12 but as of the May 10 pattern redraft, the size 12 I made is equivalent to the size 10 in the current pattern. Point is, I'd have been better off cutting the size 14 but I still would have had to alter it, if not as extensively. 

• I shortened the bodice equally on front and back by 1 inch.
• I increased the bust room by sharply widening the upper front (just under the armscye) significantly (maybe 2 inches on each side).
• I shortened the sleeve cap and raised the armsyce (standard issue Kristin) - even though this is cut high already.
• I modified the neckline.

End result: Perfect fucking fit.

Some Thoughts on the Pattern:

• What a coup to create a wardrobe staple that hasn't been on any designer's radar. Well played - esp. since I buy bodysuits as frequently as I can find them (which is rarely these days).

• The instructions are excellent and the pattern goes together very easily though I do think it's much cleaner to insert binding bands while the garment is still flat. Mind you, that's a personal preference thing that's addressed in detail here. IMO, what comes easily generally goes more smoothly and produces a cleaner outcome.

• It's apparently cut quite narrowly. I modified it so much that I can't really comment but, since my back is narrow already, I didn't find this problematic at all - even though I cut the wrong (too small size) to begin with. I do think, given that the only place I needed to add significant fabric was just under the armscye at the full bust height, that it is probably drafted for the narrow amongst us. If you think about it, it inclines one to be able to wear that scoopy craziness without the garment falling off quite so easily.

• I did not go with scoopy craziness. I cut the high back (modified) and a mid-scoop at the front. As mentioned in the last post, I used neckline of the Lady Skater. It really is superb. In fact, between my t shirt sloper and the Lady Skater pattern pieces, the upper bodice I made is quite different from the Nettie pattern options. 

• The arms are drafted really long, so consider that when cutting. Don't waste your fabric unnecessarily - measure your preferred length first.

• The leg opening is very, um, modest. I think those with hip and upper leg thickness concerns will appreciate it. But it's quite retro and it may not be the optimal cut in terms of concealing panty-lines under tight clothing. The bands add bulk. I think a picot edge might work better but I sense one would also benefit from changing the cut of the legs to achieve less visibility under thin bottoms. It's extremely bathing suit-like, which given Heather Lou's previous pattern forays, is not surprising.

• I didn't follow the snap insertion instructions exactly because I have a gizmo that does hammer-in snaps (with a pretty finish so I didn't want or need to cover the caps). That gizmo, while it can produce a very good end result (and I think it does here), is challenging to get the hang of. In fact, I frequently bamboozle my husband into inserting snaps, as necessary, because it hurts his brain less than mine to accomplish this outcome. Plus, you get to use a hammer and he likes that.

About the Next Versions: As per the photos at the top of the page, I've got 2 more ready to go. One is a coral rayon jersey with short sleeves and the other is my beloved jewel toned Modal with 3/4 sleeves. 

Coral Rayon Jersey version: Because I only had 0.5 yards of the coral rayon jersey - ?! what was I thinking - I had to do cutting surgery. Lord, I cut this fabric along every grain. I was all high on myself for managing to cut the pattern out of 0.5 yards until I realized that I cut the back crotch at half the width required (it was one of those "on the fold" issues...) Um, oh well. I'm going to try to make the Nettie-thong version and see if it works. Ain't no getting 3 snaps on this crotch :-) My other concern, with this fabric, is that it might be too thin. But whatevs. If it doesn't work, I will have tried.

Amethyst Modal version: Oh, this fabric is some of the most gorgeous I've ever found. The drape, the hand, the recovery, the colour! It is DELICIOUS. Made this with 3/4 sleeves because I didn't want to waste any of the yardage and there's not enough left to make anything else. Plus, with this fabric, more is more.

Today's questions: What do you think of my leopard-print Nettie? Have you made this pattern? If yes, what version did you make and does it work well in your day-to-day wardrobe? Let's talk!

Glassy-Eyed

So it's slow here peeps - cuz it's fast everywhere else - but I thought I'd check in to say a few things...

1. I got new glasses. Everyone says they look terrific - that I seem younger and French - but I feel vaguely clownish. Moreover, I am middle-aged clownish, having been prescribed (and having purchased) progressives. If you don't know what these are, then count yourself lucky. Effectively they're trifocals, designed to allow me to see my knitting on one plane, my computer on another, and the world at large on the third. That's the idea, anyway. Alas, I don't seem to be able to see anything at any distance (not an uncommon thing when introduced to this style of lens that, among other things, diminishes peripheral vision notably) and my depth perception is on a drug trip. This would be less concerning if I hadn't spent so much money on them that you'd be utterly horrified. Seriously, I'm rarely horrified and I'm horrified. More to come, natch, but (happily), despite the prescription change on all fronts, they aren't causing headaches.

2. Unfortunately, just cuz new glasses are not causing headaches, it doesn't mean I'm not totally on the edge for hormonal reasons. I've got my whole body muscle spasm prodrome going on. It's been tough on this front for the last month or so, but that's how it goes. I refuse to suffer in the name of pain. Pain is my body's resistance to its temporary reality. So be it. I've decided to approach all of my experiences with gratitude because this is the only life I have, the only body I have and I will not wish away the time. It's humbling to find that I cannot even lie over a bolster or do a forward bend that isn't stabilized by 2 cedar blocks under my head but it's a lesson in acceptance. If only I could accept the look of my stomach these days... (I'm working on it.)

3. And, a propos of body acceptance, I'm making the Nettie bodysuit. I couldn't wait. It's quite slow going cuz a) I'm slow and b) what's the rush? I had to modify the pattern, per my shape, extensively. I cut the 12 (recognizing that I should have gone up a size re: info from Heather Lou about sizing on the pattern purchased before May 10). It's fine, though, cuz I used my sloper pieces and I simply changed all the relevant bits. In shoulders I was a modified size 12 (10 in some parts, 14 in others) In the bodice, I am veering towards a 14 (I think) that goes to a 12 - and even a 10 - as I near the derriere.

I sense this pattern is quite forgiving, given that it's designed for very stretchy knit. But it is not drafted for someone of my proportions, out of the envelope, which is why I'm so grateful to know how to alter knit patterns to fit me. This one's a wild card because it's a bodysuit that snaps at the crotch. I recognize that I'm making a muslin and that's cool. Despite constant fabric purchases of the early part of this year, I have so little rayon jersey lying around that I had to cut my fabric in every direction possible. I'm ok with that. It's 4-way stretch and I'm not going to waste "almost enough" good fabric. Especially since this is a test garment. Apparently, I can't stock jersey fast enough... I did manage to cut the garment with about a yard of fabric, vs. the 1.5 yards that the pattern calls for.

I'll write more on this when the garment is complete, but I've made modified 3/4 sleeves (I didn't have enough fabric for longer ones) and a neckline that straddles the high and scoop necks that the pattern provides. I copied the Lady Skater neckline which, frankly, is the most flattering home-sewing pattern neckline I've found thus far. I also shortened the bodice by 1 or 2 inches (can't remember), equally on both front and back.

More to follow on this when I have an outcome.

Every time I mention that posting will be slow to non-existent, it seems to presage a phase of mad writing, but I'm going to say it anyway since, for the next 2 weeks, I've got much to accomplish that has nothing to do with sewing or knitting.

Once the vacay starts, I imagine I'll be so amazed by my new environment that there will be much to say.

Till next time...

Body of Work

How often do I promote a pattern 12 hours after seeing it online? (OK, other than with Brooklyn Tweed offerings...)

I have a very good feeling about this:

Closet Case Files - Nettie Skirt and Body Suit

Fun fact: Heather Lou, the designer of this fab pattern, lives in Montreal (on the Plateau, if her outside pics are anything to go by). Nothing screams Mtl more than a body suit. Peeps, it's the ultimate layer. And it's non-negotiably chic, as the Mtl ladies must be.

Look, I'm the original body-suit (aka body, for those of you living in the UK!) wearer. I freakin' love the long, sleek line.

Why does the body suit flatter?

• It maximizes length of waist and minimizes waist bulk.
• It creates the sense of waist curve, even on straight frames.
• It's sleek.
• It's an excellent layering piece.
• It's so disco - in the best way!

Unless you carry rolls around the waist - and as long as you wear an EXCELLENTLY fitted bra - the body suit flatters practically everyone. Really, don't fuck around with the bra. If it fits badly, you'll look hideous in this style of top. Natch, if you're towards the flat end of the spectrum, make the backless version and go braless. I'm not trying to interfere with your small-chested fun.

Because I have a summer's worth of projects lined up (post coming soon), I don't think I can queue this quickly, but I'm watching for all of your versions and feedback and posts. And I do imagine it's going to be a late summer weekend project for me. I can see this becoming a staple.

So, whatcha think?