Sunday, September 5, 2010
In Which I Discuss the Merits of not Discussing the Merits of Sewing aka An Update
The Bra
No joke, I utterly loathe hand made bras - at least my hand made bras. In case you're wondering, the latest attempt, the Merckwaerdigh, did not work. What a surprise (uttered with dripping sarcasm). Not only didn't it fit but it was entirely unsupportive - which given the density of the structure boggles the mind. In case you are keeping score, it is a) unattractive and b) useless in its given purpose. Oh, and it took about 10 hours to assemble and another 4ish hours to set up.
What?! Do I have so much time and energy in my life that I can continue to throw it away on wasted attempts? Oh, I know that learning is the path to success and every overnight success first slogged for years (or whatever that stupid expression is) but I am not patient and I am only as up as my latest down - a personality flaw at the best of times, never mind during the sewing times (when it's suicidal ideation-inducing).
I've got to take a class. Or find a teacher who can work with me one-on-one. Universe, this is Kristin putting it out there: Please find me a teacher who is fun and friendly and talented and affordable and in my general neighbourhood. Thanks. (Cuz till then, my hundreds of dollars of lingerie supplies are going to languish in the cupboard.)
The Pencil Skirt
My lined pencil skirt has had its share of challenges but, on balance, it's a success. I mean, I can wear it and the lining is sweet and the finishing isn't horrible (thank you Babylock serger!). Given the pattern didn't come with lining instructions, I'm pretty pleased. I also matched up the mini-pattern at the waistband and side seams perfectly.
I made the zipper invisible (not in the instructions) and it looks great - but, though I chose the right size and lined it up with the notches, it didn't fit to the top and I have had to hook/eye in a rather significant way. Did I mention that I suck at hooks/eyes and it looks rather mediocre. Fortunately, I don't think people will be staring at that detail. Until I point it out to them which I am honour-bound to do and then I'll want to kick myself for having thrown my hand because they'll see the flaw like I see the flaw. You see my dilemma?
Its "improvement opportunities": Well, it's too big. I should have cut the 12 not the 14. Note: I made a muslin and it fit well. Of course, muslin has no give and this worsted had more than I bargained for...For some reason, waistbands confuse the shit out of me. I ended up top stitching this one (not the most elegant figure an out of keeping with the formal herringbone worsted), not the end of the world, but not optimal. I also opted to cut the skirt on the width of the herringbone pattern i.e. the chevrons don't run vertically along the length of my body, but horizontally. This was intentional. I thought it would be interesting and, since I'm not wide in my lower body, I guessed that it wouldn't create the illusion of too-much additional width. Hmmm, not so sure now that it's all said and done.
Reading this, I"m sure you think "K, why do you bother?". I have to stop dissecting my projects immediately after completion because my perfectionism is beating me down. I mean, I'm not simply unfortunate enough to be a perfectionist (psychological "issue", ya know). I'm a perfectionist who isn't perfect!?!? Can you imagine my pain?
I'm going to go upstairs and take a photo of the skirt, as soon as I drink a glass of wine. Or two. And then I'll post it with the expectation that y'all will tell me it's fantastic and I'm crazy for thinking otherwise.
I've decided to wait to tell you about the retro dress (Vogue 8413) till tomorrow. I have some stuff to say, but I feel it's inappropriate to comment on a project till its complete. At that point, however, all bets are off.
Pls. stay tuned...
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Weekend at K.Line's
I seem to be in a rather sewing-fixated phase - thank goodness based on the money I'm spending on this habit - but I feel a growing urge to show you some nice interiors and maybe a new Lingerie I Own piece. So don't give up in disgust if you are totally sick of K.Line the budding sewist.
Having said that, I'm about to embark on the Sewing Long Lost Weekend (or is that Lost Long Weekend?). As I said to my friend Jennifer, it's like a regular lost weekend but with more clothes rather than fewer!
On the list of items:
- Merkwaerdigh bra (This is a pattern I haven't tried. It seems fuller in the upper cup than the others, which is where I need the fabric. I may have to revise the sizing because this pattern is geared towards a larger range i.e. I'm on the cusp. But because I've been so disappointed with the other bras, and their lack of effectiveness with upper bust fullness, I'm going to give it a go.) Let's leave it to my kid to ask the tough questions i.e., Mummy, do you really think this one is going to work? I'm doing the upper cup in underlined lace (my new fancy products arrived and I've already fused the underlining to the lace), and the lower cups in indigo duoplex. None of the fabrics stretch (except the indigo powernet on the band), so fit perfection is the order of the day. I'd like to tell you I'm optimistic, but I strive for honesty on this blog...
- Pencil skirt from Vogue 8640. I've made the jacket and I love it. This skirt will be in a taupe herringbone (first time matching stripes) and a yellow lining. The pattern doesn't offer lining instructions so I'm going to make them up. I know, feel free to laugh perversely.
- Vogue 8413, retro-inspired dress in poly doubleknit. I'm going to make version B. I bought the fabric online very inexpensively. On receiving the goods, I can see why. If this thing turns out to be a muslin, it will most certainly irritate me from a time perspective, but I won't feel like I've sacrificed the world's most perfect fabric. I bought more doubleknit in the store this week - burnt orange poly blend - much nicer hand, and I'll use it for a second attempt / second garment (depending on how it goes). The dilemma with sewing stable knits (any knits) is that you can't use woven muslin to check it out for fit. You need to use another stable knit. Preferably one with similar properties because the drape is everything. I'm still debating the value of an FBA. I think there will be enough ease given the bias-cut bodice, to give the FBA a miss. I've done some measurements and I'm fairly sure. But built in ease (an element of fabric and pattern construction) is difficult to assess from a paper pattern.
The wild card additional sewing item: a Simplicity pattern I bought months ago for M. She's finally engaged with sewing and wants to make the v-neck, short sleeve, elastic waist top. I've told her she needs to trace the pattern today, including marking, for my review this eve. We'll see how that goes. We measured her last night and I was amazed to discover that she's a size 8, measure for measure. How odd to see someone actually conform exactly to the pattern numbers! Ah, kids.
I really hope she can keep her focus and work amicably with me to put this garment together. We tend to lock horns easily and her organizational skills are still under development. Given that I have so many personal objectives this weekend, I don't want to lose my patience.
In case you think this is an insane amount to accomplish in 4 days - it is, IMO - you should know that I've spent the last 2 weeks collecting the materials and tracing the patterns and cutting the muslins and the self-fabrics and considering the best methods of assembly based on pattern instruction and other sources. So my aim is to simply SEW on the weekend, not do all the lead up and prep which should, by then, be complete. Natch, sewing is largely unknowable to me, so it may be smooth sailing or a lot of high waves. We'll just have to wait and see.
That's me. Whachoo doin' this long weekend?

