Sunday, March 2, 2014

Roar

This is one of those sewing projects that took me all weekend. Four hours on Saturday and 8 hours today and I only just finished the Issy top. Anything that could go wrong, did. I had difficulty figuring out how to alter the pieces. I had difficulty figuring out how to put them together. I had difficulty sewing the rayon jersey (you know how rayon jersey can be). I'd finally figure something out (something nit-picky and critical) and realize that my bobbin was shot. My entire body is in knots.

But I fucking love this top.


Don't you love the drape of the neckline??
See these gathers? I set them by pulling basted stitches and then basting the front gathers to the back gathers. Then I serged. It took a while...


OK, here's the lowdown:
  • Next time I'm making this in a solid colour - there's too much fabulousness in the construction to obscure with (an admittedly fantastic) pattern.
  • I fucking nailed the alterations. I'm a convert to the sloper concept. Yeah, it took hours to figure out where exactly to remove the fabric from but I did it and the shoulders are perfect.
  • Yeah, this pattern fits smaller than the envelope measurements but I still needed to pull out almost an inch in the shoulders, remove a bit of fabric from the arm circumference and to raise the armsyce by another inch. I didn't make any other alterations. It fits in the boobs. It fits in the waist. It fits in the hips. I appear to be a consistent size 10 in StyleArc knit tops - with alterations, of course. I might be able to get away with an 8, based on experience, but then I'd have to fit by increasing the bust and waist (and doing other things potentially that I cannot predict). I'm happy using the 10 as a starting point.
  • If you don't like people staring at your tits, this probably isn't the top for you.
  • Some have mentioned that they're not nuts about the asymmetric hem (in addition to the asymmetric neck and asymmetric gathers). I LOVE it. I even love it at almost tunic-length, which is the length of the garment currently. I might shorten the next version (for a different look) but this would be great with leggings or skinnies.
  • This looks like it would cost $150.00 at some cute boutique (or $500.00 at Holt Renfrew). It's TOTALLY au courant. I cannot say enough about StyleArc from the vantage point of chic and modern design. Sure, I've had a few challenges with the company (largely because of business-growth, growing pains), but you cannot fault the silhouette. And much of the time, the drafting is very good also. This is why I joined the Club and will likely order mainly from StyleArc for a good long while.
  • The instructions are more fulsome than they generally are with StyleArc, but I trashed them by ironing the thermal paper, so it was a slog for me. And really, I was not at my spatial best. What can I say? There's a reason that Anne has a blog called the Clothing Engineer and I do not have a blog called the Clothing Civil Servant.
  • Given all the challenges I had figuring out the construction, this fabric took a beating and the inside is not my neatest work. Mind you, I worked out the glitches and figured out what to do so, next time, I should be able to produce a neat interior.
  • The rayon jersey is lovely and the stretch factor is optimal for this top. If I'd understood things better, I would have used my seam interfacing strips along the entire front and back neck to stabilize things. Then I'd have had a chance at stitching the underturned back neck, in the ditch, from the right side. As it is, I had to use a short zig zag on that area and it's not gorgeous. But no one but me will notice it, I'm sure.
No question, I will be making this again. I mean, after all the time I spend on alterations, it would be crazy not to make everything at least twice.

So, whatcha think??

46 comments:

  1. It looks fabulous dahling!;). I'm a big fan of using patterns more than once...especially since you've worked out all the alterations. Well done!

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    1. Why thank you! And I'm getting on the pattern re-make bandwagon!

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  2. Great! Well done using the sloper to get the fit right. I have attempted this (results still to come), and I definitely had no idea what I was doing! Definitely make this again in a solid. It would be a crime not to :)

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    1. I think you don't know what you're doing until you do - and then, if you try and apply the sloper to a complex pattern, you don't know all over again!

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  3. That top is HOT! And it will be great in a solid colour too.
    Some days it's nice to put on a 'hey, look at my boobies!' top and just work it. :)

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  4. It looks killer! The soft cowl-esque drape across the bust is just lovely, and the pleats in the side seam must look fab on you! I'm so glad it was worth all the work! (Bonus: Now you've done the work and you can hopefully relax while making the next one!)

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    1. Thanks G - but let me tell you, it was a slog - esp. this weekend as I continue to eat my body weight in carbs and pray for the spring. :-)

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  5. HOT. if it took you all weekend, it was WORTH IT.

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    1. OK, I'm going with that! Thanks. xo

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  6. fabulous! i definitely love the a-symmetry happening--it's interesting but not "trying too hard" if ya know what i mean. you must make this another time or two!

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  7. Gorgeous!! I am in awe of your focus and fortitude!

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    1. Thank you TinaLou! I wasn't feeling the focus today, so I had to make up for it with the fortitude :-)

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  8. Super hot!! Makes me want to try style arc pAtterns too.

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    1. Why thank you! And you definitely should try them. What's to be lost?

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  9. What do I think? I LOVE IT. I'm also a fan of the asymmetric hem, I think it works really well with the neckline and side gathers.

    So now you're addicted to Style Arc patterns too...

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    1. Thanks A! I used your post re: "neaten" meaning turn under and top stitch. That's about the only thing that didn't go wonky while I was making this. :-) But all's well that ends well.

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  10. Gorgeous. I love the top, your write up and point 4 on your list of Notable Things.
    I agree with oonaballoona.
    Are you gonna model it for us?

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    1. Probably, but I'm in one of the 3 weeks per month where I feel (and feel I look) hideous...

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  11. Oh yeah and I received my first patterns on the new paper, last week. So far all I noticed was that the instructions are in teeny writing (only a little reduced in size but somewhere around 45 it starts to matter). So thank you for the ironing alert. I would have munted the pattern for sure.

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    1. I am so glad I mentioned it! Oh, and those instructions are ridiculous. I think they're meant to be scanned and read - but honestly, who makes a pattern with point size 4? No one can read them. And God help you to try reading after melting the ink...

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  12. I think we need to go to the swankiest bar in town, seat at the bar, and order martinis (maybe scotch for me) and you need to wear that!!!!

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    1. I will come too, and I will up the ante: we ALL wear leopard!

      Love this top - can't wait to see it on you!

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    2. We are TOTALLY doing this. Don't forget to bring the leopard!

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    3. Um... I don't OWN leopard! Oh, wait, I own leopard shoes and a clutch. Does that count?

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    4. That totally counts! In fact, it's the chicest way to do leopard!

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  13. LOL - I think that I'd like to see it on you.

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    1. Oh, just wait till I feel less hideous. You know how this perimenopause shit is.

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  14. It's fantastic - love the front draping.:)

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    1. Thank you! Isn't that draping special?? Love the design.

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  15. Fabulous! And so glad you got such a great payoff for all your hard work. Gorgeous draping -- I'm sure you'll make this is a variety of colours, and they'll all be in regular rotation.

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    1. Oh, thank you! I am definitely going to make this one a staple. PS: I got your reply email. I'm just mulling things over. But I will respond. Thank you!

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  16. Love this! RAWR!!!!!!!!!

    Totally pinning the pattern to my sew sexy inspiration board.

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    1. Not bad for a gal who's feeling rather mojo-free, huh? :-)

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  17. Gorgeous top - definitely looks like something you purchased at a high-end shop. The hem and the cowl - can't decide which one I like more.

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    1. THanks so much Susan! I can't decide which I like better either. I think it's the ruching at the side seams :-)

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  18. Fabulous top! I love the look of it in this print. I bet it will be just as awesome in a solid color. (And I swear I already left this comment before but that may have been the day Blogger wouldn't save any of my comments at all.)

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    1. Thank you! It would look terrific on you! My blogger commenting has been fussy lately also. Perhaps they're having a bit of an issue...

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  19. Love, love, love, love. That just about covers it, I think ;-)

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