Wednesday, March 20, 2013

The New Look

I'm no fashion historian, but I understand that M. Dior's New Look was a well-won "fuck you" to post-war fabric restrictions - and very likely to the recently-ended war itself. (Ha! Having re-read this sentence, there's absolutely no question that I'm not a fashion historian!)

I have always been enamored of the flouncy, but clean and appropriate lines of the this style. It's all business, but with a dirty-little-secret. One imagines some outrageously sexy lingerie lurking beneath the correct and splendidly-fitted jackets. I also love the attention to hips, provided by the designs.

Though I spend much of my time talking about fit as it pertains to breasts, I actually am most attracted to an emphasized, curved-hip silhouette, the likes of which is the emblem of the New Look. Who doesn't love a nipped-waist graciously expanding towards soft, feminine hips??

Which is why, when I found this jacket I was a bit in its thrall:

Advance 6921
Admittedly, it's the wearable, 1950s suburban version of a theatrical, late 40s original. More business. Less flounce.

I love the side-dart / vertical front-dart combo. This is a very smart way to achieve good fit for a bust that is proportionately large on its frame. The shawl collar is the essence of elegance. I do love me a shawl collar, be it modern or vintage. IMO, it transcends the concept of "era" though it's less ubiquitous in modern fashion than it was in days gone by. Note: You can always find a version of this neck in high-end RTW. Knit-wear designers know that a shawl collar is exceedingly chic - and youth-giving - on a woman of a certain age (and neck).

The jacket ends at the high-hip, an attractive visual cut-line, especially when worn against a full skirt having upwards of 8 yards of fabric.

Has there ever been a time in history since, when so much draped-fabric has produced such a compact silhouette?

At any rate, this pattern, gorgeous though it is, does not come with printed markings. It's of a vintage that markings are symbolized by perforations, clarified by a legend. You can imagine how, in my current state of mind, and having maybe a gram of oomph (at most, in the middle of the afternoon), I'm not in the market to learn this new skill just at the moment.

But it'll be there for me when it's time.

Today's questions: What do you think of the New Look? How do you like this jacket's riff on it? Have you ever made a jacket of this era / having this vibe? Do you enjoy working with unprinted vintage patterns - or are they a pain in the ass? Let's talk

18 comments:

  1. I think that jacket would look great on you. Do not be intimidated by unprinted patterns! The perforations mimic the printed lines perfectly -- so, for example, instead of a printed "v" for a dart, you'll see a series of perforations that, if connected (think "Connect the Dots") would form that same "v." After a while your eyes adjust. Plus it's all explained in the instructions, which always include a key. I say go for it!

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    1. Why thank you Peter! And that info is super useful. I think I just have to get over the fear. I have a few unprinted patterns but they all sit there waiting for the day I get up the nerve :-)

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  2. LOVE the New Look. This is a beautiful jacket. You should make this one ;-)

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    1. I suspect I will make it, but I'm on muslin 2 of the Burda jacket (which is looking promising). So let's hope I'll make this vintage one on my next jacket undertaking :-)

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  3. Unprinted patterns are totally easy once you get the hang of the legend :) And if you still find yourself flailing, just trace the pieces and then write on the tracings (I know... we're supposed to trace anyway. But I don't! Not if I'm not slashing and taping the pattern, anyway). If it helps, I have two unprinted patterns that are missing their instructions, and I'm still going to try to waddle my way through them - bought the fabric in NY & everything. We'll see how that turns out, ha. But yes, that jacket is lovely and the style will look really fabulous on you!

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    1. I will trace the pieces - even though I really don't enjoy tracing! I just spent too much money on this thing to throw caution to the wind :-)

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  4. My one vintage pattern (a 1943 McCalls) was a dream to work with, but it didn't have the perforations. It was a bit more modern in it's markings.

    I love styles that create a feminine silhouette - nipped waist, curvy hips, etc. And I think the high placement of the not-too-large lapels would really draw the eyes up to the face. I think this would be lovely on you!

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    1. Thanks T! I do LOVE the emphasis on hips that the New Look provides. Very womanly, but not trashy in any way!

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  5. Check in with Super Kawaii Mama about this K - right up her alley!

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    1. Oh, she does a great job with all of the nipped-waist, vintage patterns!

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  6. It's a beautiful jacket and I love the fitted details. The shawl collar is lovely. From what Peter is saying it should be a manageable project so why not give it a go?

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    1. Isn't it pretty? I will give it a go, but not till next time - as I hope the Burda Style jacket is going to work out.

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  7. This should be flattering for you, and I agree with your comment about the dart combination.

    I don't have a small enough waist to make this work, but I look forward to seeing your iteration!

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    1. I know, it's a perfect dart combo! You know, I think it's quite adjustable for different waist sizes. It's a matter of emphasizing the hips, I think.

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  8. Oh my gosh that is beautiful! Love the shawl collar, it looks elegant. Reminds me of the shawl collar on that sweater pattern you were showing us a few weeks ago.

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    1. Thanks Pearl! It is similar, isn't it! I guess I've got a style :-)

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  9. I love the New Look and all its permutations. This jacket is divine and would look amazing on you. I'm pretty sure with your skills you'd have this pattern licked in no time.

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    1. Thanks Evie. I definitely look forward to making it, after the current jacket. It's a lovely, timeless silhouette. I'm just going to have to get confident about working with unprinted patterns!

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