OK, today I got closer on fit with my bra-making (see above) than ever before but fuck if it isn't the among the most elusive things I've ever tried to do. You know you're crazy when, at 11:30 p.m., on the last gasp of your vacation, you find yourself taking photos of the bra you spent all day making - only to follow it by writing a post immediately?!
When I finally get it - and, trust me, I will get it - I'm going to have a freakin' party.
There are so many "issues" with this one, I'm loathe to list them all but, in brief:
- My fun idea of using super expensive Mokuba lace, interfaced, was labour-intensive, but it yielded a weak final product. Weak in that it isn't going to last for the long term.
- I've still got an issue with the back hooks piece (of the clasp) popping out when I wear it. It might be the hooks piece (it's crappy) or the way I've attached it, but I've had this challenge every time and it persists. The only reason I'm finally turning my attention to it now is because I've almost got a working prototype, so no time like the present.
- I cut the channeling before stitching it shut at the centre. Big mistake cuz the wires really want to pop through - despite my Houdini hand-sewing of ugliness.
- There still isn't quite enough cup fabric so that the inner wire touches my chest wall, but it's close. I'm finally ready, I think, to experiment with altering that part of the pattern very slightly. I thought the issue might be about seam allowances and the front bridge, but I'm not sure. I did widen the bridge to allow for .25 inch seam allowances on the centre / fold side (which I hadn't before) but it might just be weird, rather than helpful.
- The band (at 75) is a bit too big. 70 cm was too small. Cutting it at 72.5 makes it increasingly tricky to grade the cup size for the customized back circumference, but I guess I'm couture bra sewing here so I might as well just go for it, yes?
Well, I'm giving this another go next weekend. Wish me luck.