Poly Crafting

I've had a productive weekend so far:

1. Started the Tubey Sweater. I've changed up the instructions to do the following:

• Alter the long bell sleeves into fitted 3/4 sleeves
• Leave off the provisional cast on at one shoulder, choosing instead to knit the whole shrug in one pass, from sleeve hem to sleeve hem. The two sleeves will be knitted in the round using magic loop. The back, upper body piece between them will be knitted with the same circular needles, but flat. Man, this knitting-speak is gobbledygook.
  
• I've got to shorten the upper back (underarm seam to under arm seam) because my dimensions are smaller than the Small size I'm knitting. In fact, I think they may be smaller than the XS. (I tell you - my frame is narrow.)
  
• Why don't I just make the whole sweater proportionately smaller? Cuz the tube body (knit stretchily in rib stitch) is the part of the sweater that contains the bust, and I am definitely in need of the pattern's increased dimensions for that.
• The challenge will be to pick up stitches for the small (the size I am notionally making) - where the shoulder and upper bust shrug piece (from which I'll be picking those stitches up) will not be a pattern-drafted "size small". Short story, is I'm going to have to do some fancy footwork there too - but I have a plan.
• As I've mentioned in other social media venues, my goal here is to obtain a great fit.
• This sweater, if knit without careful consideration for sizing - esp. given my body shape - would likely be a bust (ha!). I've got gauge but I'm not being cocky. I've been there before and had a bad outcome. However, with that sweater (the ill-fated Wispy), there were other issues going on.

2. I'm also knitting my third version of the Cable Keyhole Scarf. You know I'm making this scarf for everyone as Xmas gifts. Each one I've knit in different yarn on size 7 needles. Scarves don't really require strict adherence to gauge, thank the knitting goddess, but I'm intrigued to see how they all look and feel somewhat unique.

3. I spent a lot of the afternoon (oh, 2 hrs or so) altering, tracing and cutting out the paper pattern for the Clover pants. Why am I pattern adjusting, before making a muslin to see how the original pattern actually fits my body? Well, I've learned that certain of my alterations are somewhat standard, pattern notwithstanding. This doesn't mean my altered pattern will produce a perfectly fitting muslin. I suppose I could create a whole new set of fit challenges by this theory. But, since I'm willing to work the muslin till I get the fit I'm looking for, I feel there's no real harm in starting from my formerly successful vantage point.

• My crotch length is short in relation to most patterns - much as my waist length is. I have removed an inch from below dart markings (and above the crotch seams). This pattern doesn't provide a shorten line so I had to wing it. I hope I did the right adjustment in the right spot.
• Furthermore my crotch depth has it's own, interesting proportions, which seem to transfer from 1 pants style to another, quite accurately.
• From (admittedly minimal) past experience of Colette Patterns, I am assuming that this pattern will fit on the roomy side. Given that I prefer 3/8 seams to 5/8 seams, my finished products tend to grow a bit that way also. Having said that, I have slightly less difference between my hips and waist measurements, than the pattern measurements. I graded the size 6 to an 8 at the waist. Interestingly, my crotch depth shape adjustments (see above) accord somewhat with the size 8 also. I'm working under the premise that I'm a 6 in the legs and hips but an 8 in the waist and crotch due to the very special shape of my lower abdomen.
• I find it strange to make changes to something I've only ever seen in 2 dimensions. I guess this is the path of learning how to three-dimensionally "read" flat pieces of paper. At least, at this point, I have an awareness of how the pattern pieces produce the 3 tubes that create the pants (2 legs and torso) - and of how they stitch together. But it's all such a guessing game.

Given my 2 latest projects, I can see that I'm at a new juncture in my production of garments. I really want to understand fit - so much so that I'm not afraid to jump right in, practical knowledge or skill notwithstanding. You can only get from nothing to something by starting, right? That's the way I'm approaching this phase. And by embracing math. If you knew me in high school, you'll know how shocking that is.

Totally off topic update: If you're looking for some utterly awesome, very reasonably priced, vintage cashmere, run to this post. And if you buy the flower cardigan, I want to hear about it!

Recalibrating the Recalibration

So, let me get this started by advising that - while technically I'm almost a week into Phase 2 of the recalibration - I am not following the "half a unit of alcohol daily with bubbly water" thing. I really tried, if you count thinking about it excessively as trying, but I just couldn't get past the engrained perspective that a spritzer isn't worthy of my personality. How then, you might be wondering, is Phase 2 different from Phase 3? Well, more or less, simply inasmuch as phase 3 includes swapping up "good carbs" on occasion for "yummy carbs" i.e. couscous for cake. That latitude is not built into Phase 2.

Furthermore, as I did my "trying", I was increasingly able to clearly articulate what not drinking did not do for me. (Only in my mind, obvs, cuz this sentence is an inarticulate disaster.)

Not drinking alcohol for the better part of 2 weeks did NOT:

• Improve my skin
• Improve my mood
• Improve my experience of food - or anything else, for that matter
• Melt pounds of fat from my midsection (or even half-pounds)

It did however:

• Give me a good opportunity to consider the nature of deprivation - something I generally avoid at all costs, though there are lessons to learn along that path; and
• Facilitate an experiment I've never before tried, designed to a) determine how I'd feel without alcohol for a (semi) extended period which isn't pregnancy - BTW, that's a torturous time to have to give up booze... and b) determine whether de-puffing and/or fat loss, in my body, would be motivated by a lack of alcohol (remember that's my mother's theory).

If nothing else, the reduction of hard-to-metabolize, non-nutritious carb calories has arguably led to the beginnings of my return to desired proportions. But, frankly, I was surprised it didn't have more of a notable physical affect. Apparently, 2 - 3 glasses of wine, for an extended period, is likely no more responsible for my de-toning (at least at this age and stage) than all the pastry I combined with it.

For me, the choice is to continue to abstain - which is the psychic equivalent, to me, of living with food allergies. If you know me well / my relationship to this topic, you will know that I am regrettably intolerant of food intolerance (and by this I mean no offense to the people who struggle with it legitimately) - or to drink real glasses of wine (and by that I mean ones not watered down by Perrier - a soft beverage I do respect in its unadulterated form).

Since my return to Boozlandia, I have had 1 drink a day (5 oz, clearly measured) of red wine. What does it do for me? It complements my food, which I choose so carefully for its correlative and aesthetic qualities. (I am a staunch LOVER of food, peeps.) It makes me feel like I'm a "regular person" not a "dieter". It tastes good. It relaxes me after a long day at work. It's something I associate with friendship and good conversation and travel and freedom from daily responsibility. Does it actually produce those things? Of course not. It's a freakin' glass of wine, not a framework the likes of which I've worked my entire adult life to create.

Nonetheless, that's where I'm at. Apparently, the second edition of my best-selling lifestyle recalibration will have an option in Phase 2.

For what it's worth, I spend very little time thinking about exciting food I'm not eating. I ingest excellent, protein rich things, don't snack, and eschew all sugar but from occasional fruit and a small dose of chocolate. (I'm pretending I'm Jennifer Aniston.) And I do feel it's having an effect.

What about you? What does alcohol mean to you? Or "dieting"? How do you relate to perceived deprivation? What foods / drink can you give up reasonably easily? Which ones leave you fixated on lack?

Rolling in Clover

Just a quick post to tell you about the loot that arrived by post for me today (Peeps, when it rains, it pours :-) Speaking of which, I bought a camel-coloured, short rain cape a few days ago, on sale, at Banana Republic - I tried to find a photo but (of course, it being big box) I couldn't... It may be part of that Mad Men line. It's definitely retro. And, though I rarely go into BR, I found it by accident about a month ago and waited patiently for it to go on sale for half price! It's got an internal belt, the only cape style that works on me - but man, it works well. Sidebar out.

Getting back to the loot that arrived... have a look at two books that my knitting enabler suggested for me:

Knitting it Old School by Stitchy McYarnpants (HILARIOUS author name)

Fitted Knits by Stefanie Japel (the woman who does the excellent Craftsy course)

Then there's the Clover Pants pattern:

I know, this is sewing gold! And I've already read through the instructions, which are outrageously clear. I do think it's excellently presented in all ways. Of course, I haven't made them yet so I can't speak to the finished product, but I am so impressed by Colette Patterns and by Sewaholic Patterns. These women-crafter-owned companies design great garments and present them in a way that's so relevant.

Finally, I'll end with a shot of a sweater that's got me excited! I was alerted to it by my other knitting enabler:

This is the When Sampson Met Lila pattern and it's free!

C'mon, is that not SO me?! Alas, I've already got another sweater and 6 scarves lined up first. But next time I buy yarn, it's for this baby.

Holy Cow!

One of the best things about having internet-found friends is that you get to know dozens (hundreds?) of fantastic people who share your philosophies and interests. These are not friendships of environmental convenience. We choose our blog friends; they're relatively easy to abandon. So when said friendships last for years, and span numerous topics despite distance or age or circumstance, that's more than amazing. It's heart-warming.

It's a stupid understatement to say that I am incredibly fortunate to have many such friends and one who's particularly stand out is Mardel. She's a fascinating woman (People, she went to Vassar!) who has been elegantly managing a significant life challenge, to put it mildly, for the last couple of years. You can read about her many hobbies and perspectives on her blog. Mardel brings a considered perspective to everything. She lives in a gorgeous house on the Hudson (though soon she will embark on a new life in the South). She loves gardening and sewing and reading and knitting with equal measures - as far as I can tell.

As a newbie sewist, I relied on her heavily for advice. I seem to recall an email I sent in the early days with the subject heading "Desperate Sewing Emergency".

A while back M mentioned to me - or was it on the blog? - that she had a few pairs of boots she no longer wears, but which happen to be in excellent condition. I joked that I would take them and, lo, recently she emailed to offer them up. I believe, at that point, I may have sent back an email with the subject heading "Um, Hell Yes!".

Today, they finally arrived - so beautifully packaged with boot shaft shapers (I use magazines when I can be bothered) and tissue paper and some utterly gorgeous Versace fabric.

Yes, there are pics below, but let me stretch the suspense by telling you that M sent 2 pairs of boots - a Walter Steiger pair in animal pattern pony skin - take a moment to digest that. I'll wait. - and another pair of quilted leather Hermes. I know. It's awesome.

Now, the universe obviously didn't want me to get too excited, lest my heart act up, so regrettably the Hermes ones don't fit me. (Note: I may have more to say about this soon. Stay tuned.)

However, these babies fit like a glove:

Yes, those are sexy zippers on the back!

And here is the Versace silk:

I don't suppose it's necessary for me to point out the "Made in Italy" on the selvedge? Or that, it's not so often that I come into the possession of anything Made in Italy.

What a parcel!! (Thank you, Mardel.)

Wrap Up

I've been threatening to post on this gloriously successful knitting project for a couple of weeks...

Anne Hansons' Cable Keyhole Scarf, Knit in Berroco Ultra Alpaca - Brown Rice (6202, Dye Lot 910)

I can't count the number of ways I love this thing but let me give you a few deets:

• It takes about 60 g of yarn i.e. under 1 skein, and 6 hours (if you're me).
  
• You don't have to worry about gauge. It is a scarf, after all.
• You can even substitute yarns of different composition and weight, though I think a worsted is best, for warmth and heft.
• It's not hard. I read up on how to cable (online) and this is what came of it.
• All that's to say, cabling, if finicky, is not scary! I know it looks difficult. It looks fancy and special. But people who've been knitting for 3 months can figure out the technique simply from posts on the internet - and accomplish a successful end result.
• It's totally flattering - I've had many compliments and I've only worn it once.
  
• Last week, I bought enough yarn to make 5 or 6 of these for Xmas presents. Sorry, those of you who know me IRL, your getting a jump on the surprise.
  

Shout Out to the Knitters: I'd love to make another of these scarves with the remainder of a skein of the Brown Rice coloured yarn (shown above), but I don't have quite enough left - and I've checked every store in the city and it's all gone. I've even put out a request on Ravelry though so far I've had no luck.

If anyone has a skein of Berroco Ultra Alpaca, Brown Rice - 6202, dye lot 910, I would so appreciate the opportunity to buy it or trade with you. Please let me know!

Less is Less*

What do you want first - the good news or the bad news??

Right. Good it is, then:

V1166 pants are finished (unlined cuz I don't like lining / the wool has stretch, the use of which would be nullified by lining). Peeps, the construction is just freakin' gorgeous. For any of you who suggest that I'm a perfectionist who can never see the excellence in my own handiwork, let me disabuse you. I made these flawlessly and I rock.

For starters, observe the inside (you know, the part with the visible seams):



Here's the full garment (right side):

And a shot of the hem (the equivalent of subjecting you to photos of a beloved baby doing something cute - it's meaningful, for the person who took the photo):

OK, on with the bad:

I followed my many notes and guidelines - this is something like the 7th time I've made these, not including the muslins. But I did one thing differently. Instead of leaving the outer leg seams unserged i.e. giving me the latitude to rip them out and alter the leg width, as necessary, I serged that seam too. Why did I do this? Cuz it's prettier construction, IMO. And I've done my time with this pattern (so I thought) to be able to take a nervy step. Note: I did baste the pants together first, to ensure they would fit. And, at that point, I did think that the 4 inches I removed from the outer leg (2 inches on each side), was slightly excessive - so my goal was to leave a little excess by serging to the outside the baste line. That line would then be removed to reveal a slightly roomier seam.

Alas, I didn't eyeball the serge line well enough and I ended up serging the pants to more or less the same width as the baste line i.e. I didn't build in my margin. Y'all know, you can't put that fabric back on, right? (Insert diatribe about how knitting has this all over sewing.)

As a result, the pants are too tight in the hips. Not hideously, not enough that I'm not going to try to wear them and enjoy their abstract beauty, but enough that you can see notable pull lines at the crotch - and my thong is too visible through the (admittedly drapey) fabric for my liking.

This may be the moment to qualify my perspective on modern pants-wearing. Have you noticed that a majority of the younger generation - yes, I did just write that and I do mean those who are younger than 30 - wear their pants too tight? I'm not talking about jeggings and skinny jeans. I mean pants one wears to work, to the lawyer's office, to funerals. I don't want to see the peach-like outline of one's derriere, even if it is youthful and high. And note: The zipper shouldn't pull.

Well, I'm about to flout my own dressing guideline for the potential pleasure of wearing great new fall pants (though it does remain to be seen how much the hip whiskering is going to torment me).

You may be thinking: Kristin, how about the recalibration? Isn't that leading you to a land of relative slimness? Well, the answer is, probably. But not yet (I'm not dieting, just eating moderately). And furthermore, the issue with the pants is in the hips - an area I rarely lose any mass in, because I don't have much there to lose. I mean, I'd have to be very skinny to note a change in hip size. Though losing volume in my butt would likely ameliorate the situation somewhat.

Thoughts and feelings? Do share...

*Something tells me I've used this title before...

Miscellany

1. Kid has lice (again). Don't tell my husband I'm telling you this or he'll flip. He feels that, every time I mention this, I defile our child's reputation.
2. That's outrageous. (The nits, I mean.) Where did they come from (this time)??!?!? Well, it's a toss up but I'm pretty sure they're from the summer camp she went to for the last 2 weeks of August.
3. This turn of events has driven me to drink, and I don't mean a spritzer.
   
4. I went 12 days without alcohol. Last night - while out with friends - I had a Caesar (tomato juice, clam juice, lime, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, celery - yeah, and vodka.) Tonight I've had a glass of wine.
5. Tomorrow I'll officially start phase 2 of the recalibration. That means spritzers for 3 weeks. I wonder if that's going to fly...
6. I'm not judging my failure to go 14 days.
7. I finished a pair of pants today (my sloper pattern). I made them in wool pinstripe that has a tiny bit of stretch. They're really well-constructed, dare I say it.
8. Alas, I may have serged off slightly too much fabric on the outer legs.
   
9. Don't panic. I need to remove my basting stitches in order to determine what exactly has occurred.
10. Sergers are binary, people. Once you slice off that 2 inches on either side, it ain't growing back.
11. I went out on Thursday and bought $2oo.oo of yarn?!?! I got some Rowan Pure Wool to make everyone fabulous Cable Keyhole Scarves for Xmas (more on that to come, promise).
    

And then there's this Debbie Bliss Rialto Aran:

I haven't quite figured out what I'm going to make with it, but it's going to be a sweater - which is why I had to buy 12 skeins.

12. In closing, I really want to live here:

Photo from Desire To Inspire