Check Me Out

I am fortunate enough to have been asked to complete a second interview with the fabulous, vintage pattern guru, Denise of The Blue Gardenia.

Please stop by and read about how I learned to sew, and other fascinating topics :-)

xo

Get a Leg Up

Meet Kwik Sew 3807:


This is one of the most exciting patterns I've ever come across - if only for its sheer wearability in my particular wardrobe.

And it just arrived at my door today! Seriously, there is no garment I don more happily (or, potentially, more frequently) than denim leggings. With tunic tops, big sweaters, asymmetric cardigans - they're fantastic. Warmer (and edgier) than tights or "regular" leggings, they fit like a glove, but with substance.

I am happy to be the guinea pig for this pattern - as I can't seem to find any reviews...

For those taking notes: Contrary to my usual "one-at-a-time" protocol, I am currently working on 3 sewing projects simultaneously - the Pendrell top, these denim leggings and the bra. (Some new lingerie supplies arrived today, and while they're great, I think I may have to alter the size of the wires. Fortunately, I have had excellent service - and superior product - from Dini at Danglez.)

I'm intrigued to see how I'm going to manage a busy period at work and a truly full sewing schedule. Happily, I'm very engaged by all of it, so how bad can it be?

Not Half Bag

Here's what I'm sewing when I'm not sewing the other thing I should be sewing*:






Today, I realized I would need a case for my Mac Air sooner than imagined (more on that to follow), so I was shopping Etsy with abandon. Finally Scott said: Why don't you just make one?, whereupon I worked actively to come up with excuses against, each one of which he summarily shot down.

To his credit, he generously helped me to construct a simple (rectangular pattern) envelope. And I have to say, you know you are freakin' sewing obsessed, when you have fusible batting (for padding), 2 types of denim fashion fabric, and numerous lining options at your fingertips. Not to mention, 8 varieties of snaps, in 2 different sizes, and a fancy little gizmo to affix them. Note: For lining, I actually went with some patterned cotton lawn that I bought for 4 bucks a yard on mega sale at FabricLand about a year ago. (Still have another 2.5 yards, but why is it sitting there gathering dust, I ask you??)

I struggled with the edges of the envelope fold over, you'll probably notice they're makeshift. But my lining idea and execution worked perfectly - and I am NO expert on lining. This thing is so nicely finished on the inside, it's practically reversible! It fits the computer perfectly, though I'm not sure how much actual support it will provide. Having said this, based on my research, I don't think it will provide much more than anything I could have bought online... I'm hoping it will work when I pack it in a (fairly formless) day bag.

I'm really impressed with what we managed to create with some ingenuity and a stocked cupboard. It's like cooking up a feast for guests you aren't expecting - what a spontaneous joy.

*Note that I have traced and cut the paper pattern for the Pendrell blouse, and I've cut the muslin. In a totally weird twist of necessity, I used up 1 yard of 2 different types of fabric ends with the required drape (the ones I used to make the Sencha blouses), to make up one muslin for this. I imagine it's going to look totally wacky, even if it does fit. Or very avant garde :-)

My Next Project

I've been waiting for the Sewaholic Pendrell Blouse sew along to begin - and the time is almost here!

Tasia, designer - and author of Sewaholic, the blog - is a fantastic example of how creative dreams can become a reality - a commercially viable one!

She is also a skilled tutorialist. Her Sewtionary is an excellent starting point for information many techniques.

You should consider joining the sew along - or ordering this lovely pattern and completing it on your own schedule. (It's a beginner/intermediate project.)

It's going to be interesting to see the fit in my preliminary muslin. I suspect an FBA will be in order, given that Tasia is designing, first and foremost, for a pear-shaped figure. (Alas, one never knows till the sewing begins.) I've had mixed success with FBAs - though I've never tried one on a princess-seamed top. It's the challenges that keep it interesting though, right?

And soon enough I'll have a Kristin-shaped dress form to drape and pin and check against!

In the Name of Science

You may recall that I have embraced a (Gary Taubes-endorsed), low carbohydrate lifestyle - if only experimentally - so I thought I'd give you a bit of information about how I am acting as my own personal guinea pig...

It seems that the best way to determine whether (at least in the case of my own physiology) insulin imbalance is the cause of abdominal weight is to change up the composition of my diet - while (natch) preserving a key control.

You know how those scientists like to use control methodology. In this case, while considering the number of calories consumed is not an element of low-carbohydrate eating (remember, Mr. Taubes does not promote any particular diet, simply the science that underpins them), it's the only variable I have at my disposal.

(Sidebar: I've debated discussing my food diary in detail - the number of healthy, balanced calories I aim to eat daily - have aimed to eat daily for years. I'm loathe to dig into this, not because I'm coy, but because it's not the sort of information I'd like to see floating eternally upon the ethernet. Out of context, it might be used inappropriately. So let's leave it at, if you'd like to know specifics - because you are a woman working to develop your own conscious relationship to food - give me a shout. Otherwise, suffice it to say that I believe in vegetables and adequate (though not excessive) energy intake. My pictures confirm that I have no shortage of body fat...)

Now, according to the low-carb peeps, I'm misguided to be keeping a record of calories at all. Oh, carbs and protein and fat grams, I am welcome to chart all day, but calories - those are so 1989. Whatevs, I like lists and food diaries like calories, so there you go.

Fortuitously, though, if I want to see the impact of low carb eating on my own body, I can change the composition of those calories, while not exceeding the upper threshold, and see what occurs.

If you happen to be an actual scientist, reading this, and you disagree that my experimental method has any value - by all means, let me know. I mean, I was an English major.

Otherwise, we'll see how it goes as I aim to eat approximately 75 grams of carbohydrates a day (not even in the realm of Atkins' extremism), picking up the slack with 100-plus grams of protein and however much fat I come across. There are no refined foods on this eating plan. There is, however, red wine - because I don't choose to live without it. As a result, a good amount of my daily carbs are going towards my evening "chill out". (Note: Depending on what you read, red wine has 5 grams of carbs per 5 ounces, or 20 grams of carbs - if you include the alcohol. Different people metabolize alcohol with different efficiency. I'm assuming, conservatively, that I fall into the "not so efficient metabolizer" category, at least for now...)

If any of you have tried this experiment on yourselves - or would like to debate the merits of high protein, high fat (non-refined) diets, comment away!

I'm going to do this for 2 months - or till I determine that it might not be optimal for my body, should the evidence arise - and see what happens. If I become more lean in my midsection over that time, I will gradually return the carbs to my diet, till I determine a tipping point. After all, I'm not eschewing rice and cookies for no good reason!

So far, it's been interesting, if a bit drab. There's nothing I want so much as that which I've decided to forgo... I don't even like bread, and now I look at it with intrigue. Ah, that's deprivation mentality for you.

In Good Form

How is it that I merely need to read a post and I'm online shopping for sewing supplies??

In case you need clarification, I did buy a dress form today. A really exciting one...

The Fabulous Fit, Pro Studio Semi Professional Misses 3/4 Form with 2 arms!!

Plus the special fitting system - the pads one uses to customize the form to the exact proportions one happens to be:
One woman I read about says she keeps a robe on hers because she's totally freaked out by how "naked her" it looks!

In truth, I have been thinking about buying a dress form for a long time - even before I thought about buying my serger. But I did some research as a (more) novice sewist and I was confused. I didn't understand the collapsible shoulders (which I opted to pass on). I didn't know if arms matter (after discussion with a bunch of peeps, I decided they do). I didn't understand whether a 3/4 was as good as a full (technically it's not, but it is affordable and entirely useful - even if one makes pants and undies) It is much more multi-purpose than a cage base (which works best for skirt makers).

My new form is pinnable and adjustable to perfection. I made a lot of calls to ensure that the delivery time is knowable (theoretically) - and that there are contingency plans. It takes 2 weeks to make my linen-covered, resin form in the size I've requested.

Apparently, one should buy a slightly smaller-than-her size and pad it up - as a too-large form cannot be made smaller. I suspect - though I didn't see this written anywhere specifically - that the most non-negotiable measurement is the shoulder span - the one that most accurately dictates one's frame size. It happens that the size I was encouraged to buy matches my shoulder width exactly. Note: The woman who helped me to choose it, went by my bust, waist and hip measurements though she did indicate that the FF forms are not wide in the shoulders. As you know, neither am I.

The form can be modified up to 3 dress sizes - and to address many changes in distribution of weight. I think this is a great feature. Women change in size and shape all the time. Isn't it great to know that the dress form you've spent tons of money on will not need to be replaced every time this might occur?

So here's my question today: Do you have a dress form? If yes, what type? How do you enjoy it? How do you modify it for changes in shape (if that's relevant to you)? Does it actually get used or does it languish in the corner as some piece of art? What's the best thing about working with a form? Do tell!

Patience, Patience

I have now fully deconstructed, traced to paper and cut new fabric for the RTW plunge bra.

Sounds good, doesn't it?

But with bras, it's always a long view proposition.

Turns out I do not have the right widths of elastic to proceed. My stash is comprised of much thicker stuff. The more I compare the pattern bras for my size, against the RTW bras I own, the less surprised I am that the handmade bras haven't fit. We've been trained to think that wider or bigger is more "supportive". It's really not true. The more I consider this, the more I come to the conclusion that it's the construction mechanism which defines support. Of course, this implies use of the highest end materials and notions. RTW bra companies have ready-access to these supplies. Home sewists trying to make large bras, not so much.

My point is, if you have small(ish) breasts and you look around a bit, you can find totally adequate fabrics, notions etc. If you've got large breasts, requiring "architectural" supplies, that becomes a much more challenging task.

For example, even having spend hundreds of dollars on bra supplies, here's what I've figured out I STILL need - stuff I'm still working to source:

• Stable, high-end wires. (Note: I have bought some I have high hopes for from Danglez. Dini, the owner, was kind enough, when I requested, to mail me 4 sets of wires in a small box for 15 euros less than 20 euros it costs to send anything from NL to Canada via Danglez. That made the risk affordable and I greatly appreciate the consideration.)
• 2 wide x 3 long hook / eye sets that aren't made of inferior quality with badly finished siding. I also need them to be 1.25 inches wide, not the 1.5 inches that the other sets I've bought have been.
• Top band elastic at 3/8 inch. I've got 5/8 inch...
• Bottom band elastic at 5/8 inch I've got 3/4 inch...
• Really high quality lingerie fabric with the smallest amount of width stretch. I've been working largely with Duoplex, a fabric with no stretch and it's limiting! I do have all kinds of stabilizers and linings and interfacing but I really don't know how to work well enough with them yet. And till I do, I need some gorgeous, stable, fashion fabric options (the likes of which all the high-end lingerie RTW companies provide).
  

I am also increasingly convinced that every sloper I've tried has been the wrong shape for me. When I compared the deconstructed RTW against one of my previous patterns (admittedly, the RTW is a plunge and the pattern was a balconette) I was SHOCKED by the difference in every single piece. I'm not yet skilled enough with the 3 dimensional thinking to explain how the shapes of the pieces speak to the shape of my breasts and frame, but maybe I'll figure it out as I go along. And then I WILL share.

Unless you're really skilled or really lucky, I sense that getting from "bra making novice" to "bra making expert" is a long and expensive road. The only thing I can say is that RTW bras are so costly, eventually the scales may level.

I'll keep you posted on developments...