tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post6685439220024491207..comments2024-02-27T07:37:46.350-05:00Comments on K-Line: The Tailored Suit: Tailoring the Jacket FrontK.Linehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-78005203736355951112012-04-16T18:20:17.908-04:002012-04-16T18:20:17.908-04:00Thanks Victoria! It's interesting that you hav...Thanks Victoria! It's interesting that you have had more trouble with the welt pockets than with the buttonholes. You know, that lapel alteration is totally simple. Next time you make this (and by then you'll have ironed out all the kinks) you can easily adjust it in no time. I believe I rasied the bottom edge up (towards the neckline) by 2.25 inches (don't quote me). The net result is that the role line angle changed and the lapel got smaller. Remember though, it will necessitate repositioning of your buttons in order to get the front to align properly. (That's also easy...)K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-53986401107579650902012-04-16T18:17:33.080-04:002012-04-16T18:17:33.080-04:00That's high praise from you! Thank you!!That's high praise from you! Thank you!!K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-65635375948102367632012-04-16T10:53:46.639-04:002012-04-16T10:53:46.639-04:00Your jacket is looking great. Dispite your woes w...Your jacket is looking great. Dispite your woes with the muslins, you are making great progress. The buttonholes look great. I think for your fabric the pockets aren't necessary. I HATE to have no pockets, even if they are rather wimpy ones, so I have added them to my jacket. I have to say that the pocket process is simillar to the buttonholes, but I had more troubles with them. Fortunately, the welt covers some of the issues. I wish I had thought of moving the lapel up before I did the tailoring on the lapel. I think it would be a better look for me as well. All in all, things are looking great.VictoriaRnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-44008857876544555292012-04-16T10:35:49.741-04:002012-04-16T10:35:49.741-04:00That's hardcore with the pockets! I never use ...That's hardcore with the pockets! I never use them, myself.<br /><br />I love how everyone suggests we make our own patterns. It's funny how non-sewing people assume that, if you can make something, you can design it.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-81522056028096022312012-04-16T10:15:30.367-04:002012-04-16T10:15:30.367-04:00Wow! Your buttonholes look beautiful. Well done!...Wow! Your buttonholes look beautiful. Well done!!!!!!Couture Allure Vintage Fashionhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10381287774029728350noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-20140673693740236192012-04-16T00:57:01.429-04:002012-04-16T00:57:01.429-04:00I think i'd add the pockets, but that's pr...I think i'd add the pockets, but that's probably because i hate not having pockets so add them to everything i can (even my pyjama bottoms have pockets!)<br /><br />I wholeheartedly agree about the small frame/big bust pattern thing! I was actually having a conversation with the boy about pattern drafting the other day and his comment was "well why don't you learn and make your own patterns that fit like that canadian girl has done" (referring to Tasia of Sewaholic). Proof he at least sometimes listens to what I say if nothing else. Sadly I don't (yet) have the skills to draft patterns in anything other than my size.<br /><br />I'm interested to hear your percolated thoughts and feelings on the subject thoughRachelhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03205271379351276007noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-44793205680482440262012-04-15T23:14:51.601-04:002012-04-15T23:14:51.601-04:00That's the way to go, I think. I'll get th...That's the way to go, I think. I'll get there in time - just have to make every kind of pattern that's out there :-)K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-43602832790911037712012-04-15T23:14:22.747-04:002012-04-15T23:14:22.747-04:00I'm starting to get there :-)I'm starting to get there :-)K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-85179898952965664542012-04-15T23:14:09.609-04:002012-04-15T23:14:09.609-04:00I have decided on leaving them out. Thanks!I have decided on leaving them out. Thanks!K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-52078694432643445622012-04-15T23:13:38.445-04:002012-04-15T23:13:38.445-04:00You're fortunate to have figured out slopers t...You're fortunate to have figured out slopers that work for you. I'm getting there, but I still have far to go.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-66248015796134087142012-04-15T23:12:59.126-04:002012-04-15T23:12:59.126-04:00See, this is what I mean - it's a relative mea...See, this is what I mean - it's a relative measurement that dictates the need for those big alterations. And, yeah, I figured it out this time - but I shudder to think of the next time :-)K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-26331670792908099562012-04-15T23:11:27.384-04:002012-04-15T23:11:27.384-04:00I should go back and look at that series of posts....I should go back and look at that series of posts. Thanks for your buttonhole compliment! I should try my hand at pattern drafting, but still have a lot to learn before I take that plunge.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-26717000022164367372012-04-15T23:09:55.518-04:002012-04-15T23:09:55.518-04:00Thanks!Thanks!K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-87379404670631652882012-04-15T23:09:46.215-04:002012-04-15T23:09:46.215-04:00Every sloper I've come across designs for a re...Every sloper I've come across designs for a relative bust volume to upper chest measurement that is of a lower ratio than the one I require. So, in order to accommodate my chest I either have to adjust the pattern substantively or buy a pattern that fits in the bust but is 2-3 sizes too big everywhere else.<br /><br />If someone made patterns with relatively small under bust measurements (28-32 inches) and relatively large full bust (7 - 9 inches larger than the under bust) measurements, that would be a lot better than assuming that the only women with large chests are relatively large people.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-55077161192857258022012-04-15T22:31:18.299-04:002012-04-15T22:31:18.299-04:00Could you elaborate more about the bust sizing? Do...Could you elaborate more about the bust sizing? Do you mean they increase the shoulder size in the larger cup sizes, somehow? I haven't used those patterns and I'm very curious.Hannah Jeanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14852218099792289394noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-50398196691353124082012-04-15T10:22:07.858-04:002012-04-15T10:22:07.858-04:00I did something similar (more extreme, actually) t...I did something similar (more extreme, actually) to the lapels on my Lady Grey jacket, and it worked out fine---if you've tested it on the muslin I think there won't be a problem. I do think it'll be a nice look for you with the shorter lapel and lovely buttons---the buttonholes look great! :)<br /><br />PS why not try your hand at pattern drafting? There'z a zillion texts out there, even online, and I think your (slightly) obsessive precision would be well-suited to the job ;)Tanit-Isishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15824217102632813598noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-39964980728643739212012-04-15T09:17:52.962-04:002012-04-15T09:17:52.962-04:00It's looking absolutely gorgeous! You're i...It's looking absolutely gorgeous! You're inspiring me to start making my Starlet :)Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01054640961472954823noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-85797410994625909292012-04-15T09:15:55.131-04:002012-04-15T09:15:55.131-04:00I know - work on that please. I'd like some go...I know - work on that please. I'd like some good patterns tailored to our shape. :-)K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-49972524993643150282012-04-15T09:14:48.706-04:002012-04-15T09:14:48.706-04:00Thanks K. I sort of tested it on the muslin. What ...Thanks K. I sort of tested it on the muslin. What I mean is, as I was creating the muslin - and working with S to improve the fit - we pinned it in a certain way (which resulted in the smaller lapel because we assumed a higher top button). Also the addition of volume at the bust does kind of change the profile of the jacket. I also didn't change the start point of the lapel, just the bottom part. The idea being that the collar position will not be impacted in any way. But I guess I am taking a chance. I did have a moment of - should I do this? Mind you, my buttonholes were already cut so I had to respect their position.K.Linehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15350615302797686048noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-61051312584102854832012-04-15T05:13:01.469-04:002012-04-15T05:13:01.469-04:00This is looking really good. Your seam is perfect...This is looking really good. Your seam is perfect. I like the inner details as well. I hope the new lapel size words - thats a brave decision but I assume you must have tested it on your muslin?Katyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04652602198760195318noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-9497539316822309382012-04-15T01:34:58.276-04:002012-04-15T01:34:58.276-04:00You would not believe how often I think about star...You would not believe how often I think about starting up a pattern company for large-busted women. But the whole having no clue how to design seeing patterns kind of gets in the way. Oh well. :-)ms. modistehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17538521450859920972noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-9914931919896984902012-04-14T22:01:52.876-04:002012-04-14T22:01:52.876-04:00Wow, this really looks nice! I don't have a p...Wow, this really looks nice! I don't have a particularly large bust, but I have a very small frame, so I have to make all kinds of annoying adjustments to patterns to get them to fit through the upper chest and back. Blech! At least you've been able to figure out what you need through all this fitting hell.Gingerhttp://gingermakes.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-63502339296204791342012-04-14T21:19:46.422-04:002012-04-14T21:19:46.422-04:00P.S. Oh, that's why Colette patterns fit! I ...P.S. Oh, that's why Colette patterns fit! I now use my own sloper to create and/or redraft patterns exclusively (especially in the chest and shoulders).Pamhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13197442485237029218noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-64353559562308017922012-04-14T21:07:31.051-04:002012-04-14T21:07:31.051-04:00It's really looking nice! You've come a l...It's really looking nice! You've come a long way in a short time!Gailhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11189513869927434997noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1606088928583067206.post-15719083871794287542012-04-14T20:47:03.526-04:002012-04-14T20:47:03.526-04:00Looking fantastic - the material is brilliant. ...Looking fantastic - the material is brilliant. I do now after seeing this - again concur with leaving out the pockets. . . Of course until you put in the lining you don't have to make a pockets decision:) I recommend glasses of wine while you contemplate this!Pamhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13197442485237029218noreply@blogger.com