K-Line

Can You Believe This?

2012-02-14T16:59:00.000-08:00

Just when I think I'm the foremost modern-era champion of home-sewn culottes, turns out that I've got company. Moreover, Lauriana, great sewist and blogger, is also pattern drafter who has designed her own culottes - a pattern which she has graciously shared with her readers.

I'm happy to know that culottes can look chic as anything on some of us! It gives me hope.

And while we're on the topic of bloggers who design patterns, my girl Suzy (the inspiration for my mad impulse to knit - which will return soon, I assure you) has embarked on a new career path:

Right now she's looking for some pattern testers but soon she'll be showing us her new designs.

Never a dull moment.

Culottes Then and Now: Knee Deep

2012-02-12T12:34:00.001-08:00

Oh, my friends, there's a fine line between culottes and clown pants - which I suppose is one of the reasons they've been a bit out of phase these last couple of decades.

Where to begin?

Well, they're not finished and I've been working on them steadily for 2 days (upwards of 12 hrs of actual sewing now). That's to say nothing of the hours I've spent tracing and altering and muslining and blogging. Which ones have I thrown my lot in with? The modern ones - with back crotch curve and darts altered like the McCalls vintage ones.

Fucking pleats! They're like sartorial instruments of torture. Between the spatial reasoning I had to develop to fold them and the fussiness of getting the seams aligned and being careful not to sew the wrong bits (or leave holes in the right bits) - not to mention that this fabric, for its many pluses, does not want to hold a crease - I am spent. I can scarcely care about bringing back the trend.

But we haven't begun to discuss how they actually look, oh no. They're a bit like something that would no doubt have me unceremoniously thrown off Project Runway - or seriously humiliated by Michael Kors.

I should have shortened the crotch length by an additional half an inch, at least. The crotch hangs halfway to my knees. Did I say that I have now taken 5 inches off the bottom (and they're still too long) and 2.5 inches out of each side seam (that's 5 inches of width, over all) and the things just continue to grow? WTF, people. How do these pants keep getting bigger?

OK, note to self: Do not accidentally cut a size up and then say it's ok cuz you're having a fat week. I should have made these in a size 12 - down from my usual size 14 - not a freakin' 16. There is SO MUCH FABRIC. The pleats add, like, a yard of it somehow.

In an effort to smallen them up, I increasingly hacked away at the internal construction, making it look like something out of a freak show. (There are internal side pockets which is why I didn't just easily serge a whack of the side seams and call it a day. Trust me, though, I did consider just serging off the pockets.)

Then there's the fact that, inasmuch as culottes are just like a skirt mixed with pants, culottes are NOT like a skirt, nor are they like pants. Instead of bringing the best of both, in this instance they appear to be a mash up of the worst elements culminating in a kind of sack-like effect. Note: It's not flattering.

Lest you wonder if wearing things large is slimming, I assure you it's not. It's absolutely as volume-adding as garments that are too small.

I've done the best I can with these so I'm going to hem them, add a hook and eye and see if all of my franken-efforts will yield a wearable piece.

OK, let's take 2 minutes to focus on the good, yes?

If I were to make them again in a size 14, with a shorter crotch and with a creasable fabric minus the pleats, I imagine they would work well.

As it is, the colour and drape of my fabric is awesome. And it somehow works perfectly with the spring palette colours I chose. It's not too brown - more mulberryish - and I love it.

I don't have to worry that they're not adequately "retro". Trust me, they're like nothing out of this century or half of the last one.

It's good to have to work one's brain in a new, painful way every once in a while. It's been a long time since I've been so frustrated and confused during a sewing project. I guess it's about time. Really, there's no learning in an easy project - just fun.

Given how many challenges I have encountered with this project, I have persisted. Every time the bobbin ran out in the middle of an important seam, every time I had to find some way to alter things half-sewn, each frustrating moment that, initially and arrogantly, I felt insulated from on account of my having made a muslin - I worked through. There's something to be said for that.

Yes, I'm going to show them to you - probably on me, if they are wearable in the end. I just can't do it today. I need to regroup.

Do shower me with your consolation and head pats. Please.

Just Like Magic

2012-02-10T12:56:00.000-08:00

I've been obsessed by the vintage magic blouse since I saw Casey's post and read a comment advising that there is a similar version to be found online.

So today I made it. Not as fast or intuitive as I thought it would be, but it wasn't hard to do:

I used the cotton jersey I bought to make a t shirt for the Spring Basics Palette. Not a t shirt, exactly, but it counts as part of the palette, as far as I'm concerned.

It looks much richer than I thought it would in this fabric. The drape is lovely and the little flower appliques are from NYC. I bought them when I was notions shopping with Mardel last year.

The back is weird:

That shawl shoulder thing is what gives the front its elegant lines, but I'm not sure about the back view. On me, it hangs better cuz I'm not covered in fabric for skin.

The thing is held together with three little snaps. You could easily use a pin or just let it hang open like a cardigan.

I didn't use my serger because I wanted a more vintage effect. I used applique scissors to trim the fabric close to the stitching and it worked fine. However, I was not looking for a fussy top with lots of slip stitching (that's what it calls for). I used my machine to top stitch everything. That means I can easily throw this in the washer and dryer on delicate.

Updated: Remind Me Not To Do This Again...

2012-02-09T17:39:00.000-08:00

OK, my fabric from Fabric Mart has arrived, and I have to say, the whole experience was a huge pain in the ass. The company has just changed its international shipping policy (yes, Canada is considered to be international, although Pennsylvania - shipping hub - is closer to Toronto than, say, half of the continental US) and, new courier firm, FedEx won't actually leave parcels at a receiver's door - even if a) the vendor and then b) the receiver indicate this preference.

I spent a good, stressful, 30 minutes on the phone with both Fabric Mart and FedEx to try to resolve this. Fabric Mart, apparently, lobbied unsuccessfully with FedEx on my behalf. In the end, I convinced the shipping dept. to leave the parcel on my porch "as long as the courier felt comfortable with the security of the environment". The alternative would have been to return the fabric as I'm not hauling ass for an hour by public transit to pick up a parcel. Fabric Mart agreed that this wouldn't be reasonable and agreed to refund my money for returned fabric - though not for the $30.00 of shipping (half of the total charge for 4.5 yards of fabric).

Every fucking time I order fabric online (twice now) or other stuff that arrives from America via courier (too many times to count), I have such a dicey experience. Somehow things never implode when I order from the UK.

Yes, I've got an axe to grind. I shouldn't have to order things to my American parents for re-post to me (USPS creates fewer difficulties). I shouldn't have to pay $30.00 for the privilege of crappy service. I blame Fabric Mart as much as FedEx. If they cared about my regular business, they wouldn't be charging me almost 400% more in shipping than they do someone who lives 2 hours drive away from me (on the other side of the Canada-US border). And they wouldn't expect me to manage the stupidity of bad courier service. Indeed, they wouldn't be using bad courier service.

In brief defense of Fabric Mart, they have recently changed their shipping method because the post office in the region is closing. And they were assured, so they told me, that FedEx wouldn't erect barriers to simple delivery. Of course, they should have beta tested that on someone other than me, no? They did say, were I to order from them again, that I could indicate a preference for USPS shipping and they'd find a way to make it happen. I wonder if they're advertising that to others, or if they'll change their newly minted FedEx arrangement in light of what they've just discovered about FedEx.

The sad thing about this situation is that the fabric I received is good. The modal is actually of excellent quality and the colour is great. It came with matched thread (for extra $). And the lavender sweater knit, while synthetic to the touch, does not look it. It's got lovely drape and hand.

But you know what they say: Challenging fabric-buying experience, good sewing experience. Or is that something I made up?

Update to respond to Kay's comment about shopping local: Trust me, I shop local more often than I order online re: every kind of item except for RTW lingerie. If I can buy a) Canadian-made products and/or b) anything from local shops I will every time - unless the prices are sincerely out of control (as is the case with RTW lingerie). When the costs are outrageous, I have to decide how to spend my money and, sometimes I will buy online. Note: Vis a vis local lingerie - I bought at bricks and mortar shops for 10 years before I got sick of the mark up. So I did my time supporting that local import, IMO.

Now, on the topic of buying fabric locally - except for 2 occasions (the latest from Fabric Mart, documented yesterday) - I have done this every time. I am frequently dismayed by the lack of good knits, specifically sweater options, in luxe textiles. I've been known to spend 30 bucks a yard on fabric at a local shop, simply to support my continued ability to purchase locally in the future.

This summer, the last large-scale Canadian fabric store (FabricLand) closed shop at the only central location they had remaining (at Yonge and Bloor), despite the fact that I spent hundreds of dollars a year there while it was around. Now there are no full-service options left that I can get to with any convenience - I don't have a car and I don't hoof it to the middle of nowhere - I live downtown for a reason.

I support King Textiles, World Sew and numerous other small shops in the garment district on a regular basis. Sometimes, I want something that I can't find in TO so I go off-road. I'm not apologizing for it. I very strongly believe in shopping locally. I also believe in getting what I want.

PS: I have routinely spoken with shop-keepers of all ilks about stocking my preferred items. Sometimes they're game - and I keep on with them. Other times they decline for a variety of economic or logistical reasons, in which case I look elsewhere. Thanks for raising this question, Kay.

Culottes, Then and Now: Two Muslins Equals Twice the Confusion

2012-02-05T09:16:00.000-08:00

Is it possible to be more confused than ever, as I dissect the muslins for the modern (B5681) and vintage (M9805) versions of the culottes?

Let me start with the requisite provisos:

The photos you are about to see are not lovely, they're functional. I'm wearing fabric in a dicey colour. The lengths of fronts and backs of these franken-muslins are not equal (I approximated when I cut the leg openings). I'm rather impressed by my "sewing documentarian" drive. I could not feel more wretched about how I looked at the moment they were taken - no doubt, aided by a hideous hormonal situation.

I thought taking photos would clearly tell the story - and indicate which pattern works best on me. I'm not sure if the exercise has yielded that effect.

In this instance, crotch curve is almost meaningless, from what I can tell. The crotch, on each pair, hangs far enough away from my own body that it is - and need be - simply an approximation of the human crotch curve.

I used 5/8" seam allowances, as both patterns instruct. Neither muslin fits small. Remember, I probably could have stood to go down a size (based on the size of my sloper), esp. if I diminished seam allowances to 3/8" or 1/4".

At first, I actually wore the McCalls pattern backwards?! Something seemed off, but I couldn't quite figure out what was wrong. Um, it's weird when that can happen.

Remember, I closed the pleats so what you're going to see is not actually an accurate representation of the final fit in the leg - just in the crotch. This is particularly germane as pertains to the vintage McCalls, which extends the pleat to the waistband. That means, should I choose to make the vintage culottes, there will be a big ole pleat right at the thickest part of my body. Not so appealing, on reconsideration. Mind you, maybe it would be chic in its authenticity and in light of its overall curvier dimensions? Not surprisingly, the modern pattern curtails the pleat at the base of the crotch on each leg. Modern designers seem to recognize that women of this era don't tend to want to emphasize abdominal girth.

OK, get out your critical sewing faculties...

As you can see, the modern pattern, on the left, has 2 darts in the front and a much narrower profile. The McCalls, on the right, is so wide at the leg opening that I question whether I like it (at least when it's lying flat).

And here you can see the Butterick muslin on me. I think the hips and legs fit well. The waist could use a little narrowing.

Here's a close up of the crotch curve. Note: You think I'd have taken more care with the sewing given that y'all are going to be looking at the minutiae, but I was really just trying to get from point A to point B. Sloppy sewing is very evident in the next photo, the shot of the culottes derriere:

I realize that I look rather asymmetrical here. That's as much cuz the pants legs are totally uneven as because I pinned the back. I did press the seams but not until after I sewed everything up (so lazy!) so the wrinkly bit below the arrow is about bad ironing.

Having said that, I wonder if the drag lines on the left buttock may be an issue. What's that about?? You'd get a better sense of things if I had put in an actual zipper but that SO wasn't going to happen. For example, the V shaped drag lines centred within the back darts is a function of the lack of zipper, IMO.

Something tells me I should make the darts less wide but I could just be grasping at alteration straws.

Now, let's move on to the McCalls vintage culottes:

OMG, I do not like what they're doing to my stomach - or what they're not doing, as the case may be. Can you imagine how dire this might be if I add in a pleat that extends to the waistband? Do you see the excess of fabric (IMO, of course it might be design) below the darts? On the plus side, the waist fits alright. Note: That's the waist I straightened slightly to the hip on the back piece. I might remove that adjustment, or diminish it slightly.

Above is a photo of the drape at the crotch. It looks quite like that of the Buttericks, as far as I can tell. Of course, the pattern pieces are practically the same at the crotch so that shouldn't come as a surprise. Note that the vintage pattern has a higher rise. It actually covers my navel, even in the absence of a waistband. I estimate this is a 10.5 inch rise. (I should measure it.)

Now, gotta say, I don't know if it's cuz I pressed this garment better, or if it's because the darts are a different width (they are definitely longer) than the Butterick ones, but the back side here looks better than the Buttericks. It doesn't hurt that the back legs are practically the same length in this photo... Or that this pair has a side opening, not a back opening, so the integrity of the back piece isn't being impacted by the lack of a proper closure.

I find myself in this terrible dilemma: I much prefer the Butterick fronts and I think I prefer the McCalls from the back. Is there any way to solve this??

For starters, please do let me know:

Do you agree with my fit assessments?
Do you have any solutions for improving the fit on the Butterick backs?
Do you think that the McCalls are a lost cause, given the front pleat situation?
Which pair would you make? Which pair looks better-suited to my shape, in your opinion?

I have a sense of how I'm going to proceed, but it's by no means a done deal. I'm curious to know if you are thinking along the same lines?

That Other Purchase I Neglected In the Last Post

2012-02-05T05:12:00.000-08:00

Y'all know I field a quite a few lingerie questions from readers. I do love talking about that topic and it seems my enthusiasm is infectious! Oftentimes, I'm asked about good brands for relatively large breasts on relatively small frames and I espouse my faves: Freya, Panache, Charnos, Fantasie, Miss Mandalay, Fauve. But there's another brand I do refer - with the proviso I've never had the chance to try it for myself. That's Curvy Kate. I have to tell you, I don't appreciate the marketing. It's tacky, in my opinion. But the bras are reputed to be very well-fitting with uplift, support and in numerous styles - many of them "sexy".

Recently, Brastop.com was having a mega sale on various styles. How mega? Well, I was able to buy a set, all in, with shipping and tax, for $40.00 CDN. (Note: Brastop, also fairly tacky, while we're telling it like it is, has the best prices on bras evah. I suggest you check it out before buying on Figleaves. Cuz when the styles are there, the prices can't be beat.)

Anyway, the style is not new - it's the Criss Cross, of which the company stocks variations regularly. I wanted a new "basic" black bra, good under most outfits, and this one fit the bill:

You can see the matching thong undies here, but only in red, for some reason... I was able to buy them in black.

This thing took 2 weeks to arrive at which point I was seriously intrigued to rip open the parcel and to try on the bra which was - wait for it - too small.

Yes, my friends, much as I have told you all again and again, the likelihood of buying a new brand of bra, sight unseen, that fits - even when you know your own shape incredibly well - is, well, slim.

It's super irritating. It makes me question the universe and my place within it. I would have been smarter to buy 2 or 3 sizes in the one order. But I didn't, so I had to return the bra I did buy for the next size up. Thankfully that size was in stock. And now I'm waiting for it.

Let me tell you: The Criss Cross fits small in the back and in the cup - at least compared with Freya and most of the other brands listed above (but not Panache, which also fits small in the cup). If you're on the cusp of either, go up a size. You know how I extol the virtues of the snug back. Well, this one was almost too tight for me to deal with. Almost - but I hate it when bands loosen after 10 wears - so I'm going to stick with the norm and give it a go. The cup, alas, the one I bought was too small. How do I know? Well, the gores didn't sit flat against my chest. Breast tissue smushed toward the side cups. Sure, the under wire was flat against my rib cage. No, there wasn't any top-cup pillowing. But this thing was too small.

All this is to say, it's all in a day's work of online bra shopping. Until you know a brand - and maybe even the individual styles within it - it's guessing. Doesn't matter how much time you spend thinking about bras and fit and the like.

What's my sense of Curvy Kate, at this point? The quality is quite good from a fit and support perspective. The materials are not luxe but they are wearable. (In truth, I prefer a higher quality fabric.) I suspect this line provides a great way to get good fit without spending a fortune. So, for all of you out there who have told me that you need support, like to wear "sexy" and youthful looks and are either unwilling or unable to spend $150 - $200 on a set, this may be for you. Seriously, you couldn't walk into a department store and find a matching set for less than $40. And while that price is on super sale, those deals are available on a semi-regular basis online.

Some Things I've Bought (And A Weather Lesson)

2012-02-04T06:58:00.000-08:00

Ah, the online vortex of consumerist compulsion... Sometimes it's so fun to fall into your lure.

Winter is very drab. I can't complain of cold; I've worn my 3/4 sleeve spring jacket with the exception of 2 really freezing days. But what we sacrifice for warmth is sun. It's the way it goes in this geographic area. Intermittent high pressure systems (cold and clear), which tend to come from the arctic, allow the heat to bleed off into space at night, resulting in extreme daytime cold - but glorious sun. When it's warmer and more humid here, that warm air has come from the south; it brings insulating clouds at night. Clouds that do not dissipate in the day. The jet stream (as part of the La Nina effect?), with all its cold air, has mercifully stayed well north this winter and has completely missed us thus far. So we're living in the endless, damp, early November. Have I ever mentioned how depressing it is in November in Toronto?

Any Canadian reading that last paragraph is smiling right now. Admit it. All we talk about here is the weather.

All of this is a propos of justifying my latest purchases, online or otherwise. When the weather sucks, trinkets bring a metaphoric warmth.

You know about my vintage pattern foray. What a great experience that has been. Most recently I acquired simple, vintage blouse instructions online, by pdf:

Many of you have tried this pattern and the feedback has been good!

I'm going to add the item into the Spring Basics Palette cuz I think it will look great with culottes!

I also bought modern patterns, for example B5681 the Culottes challenge comparator.

On this topic, you may be aware that I intend to tailor a couple of suit jackets this summer. I already own this Claire Schaeffer pattern. But I do appreciate less conservative jackets, which is where this one comes in:

Decades of Style 3009

I have to be honest, while this modern take on a vintage pattern is totally appealing, and while I experienced prompt client service, the shipping mark-up charged by this independent pattern company strongly disinclines me to ever order from there again. In brief, I had a few (polite) conversations with a contact who explained every which way that they were not going to change the policy wherein sending a USPS package to Canada costs almost as much as the pattern itself. The times are changing peeps. MANY companies are starting to realize that it's unfair to make money on Canadian shipping - when they're not doing the same extortionate thing in their native lands.

Then there's my latest online fabric purchase moment:

Navy Modal - it's a beautiful, durable fabric. Clio sold me on this!

This sweater knit has been featured at length by Carolyn (Fabric Mart ambassador :-))

Fabric Mart has many interesting offerings, but 4 lbs of fabric cost $30.00 in shipping. That's as much as the discount fabric itself.

And, while we're on this topic - how is it that I go instantly from spending a half hour cleaning out scraps from and organizing my fabric cupboard to buying new stuff I'll barely be able to fit into it??

Look, I have a rationale: The sweater knit is to make the aforementioned magic blouse (it's not in the Spring colour scheme, but whatevs). And modal is something that you should buy whenever you can find it. Neither sweater knit nor modal are readily available in my city. And, the total cost still brought my fabric to under 15 bucks a yard. Nonetheless, the shipping has put me off, yet again. I have enough access to fabric locally that, next time I feel like going far afield, I'm most likely to take a trip to NYC and buy a whack of fabric from the garment district, rather than to incur charges that irritate me.

Finally, I bought one other item, RTW at a bricks and mortar store - a very unusual occurrence for me. As you know, I have need of slightly more conservative clothing in my current role, as I attend a few meetings a month of the most formal, professional variety. Holt Renfrew was having a sale and I got the following suit (note: I got mine in the richest navy, natch):

Theory Hydric Melora Collarless Jacket, image from Polyvore

Theory Jeldra Hydric Pants, image from Net-a-Porter

Oh, I know, rub it in my face how I said suits are so cliche, so old-school. But the early-90s girl in me just couldn't get the jacket without the pants. Even though I'm kind of on the fence about the pants. They're that low slung style that the young people wear. I had to order in a larger size from Calgary because I cannot bear to wear my pants tight in the ass. And the alterers will need to remove the front internal pockets (they add bulk) and shorten them by a very wasteful foot of fabric. No, I'm not altering them myself. Even though they will charge for alteration on sale merch, I have no interest in spending a whack on pants (on sale) followed by doing my own alterations.

The jacket fit me perfectly, PERFECTLY, right off the hanger. That's almost unheard of in my universe. So, till I can DIY clothier my own suits, this one will be an elegant alternative.

Note that I do not take a purchase of this financial magnitude lightly. But I do think formal wear (and that's what a suit is, after all) should be very well-made and perfectly fitted. Theory never fails on these fronts. I'm of an age and stage that I choose only to wear what looks and feels excellent. And I am tremendously grateful to have that ability at this time.

I can't wait to perfect a couple of fitted jacket slopers - at which point I'll be able to make my own suits in every format, with relatively luxe materials, likely for under 200 bucks each.

Lord, this post has taken me all morning to construct. I have tea at the Windsor Arms this aft (carb attack of the highest order, I realize) and skating with M tomorrow. How on earth am I going to make any headway on those culottes muslins this weekend??

So, what are your thoughts on any or all of the zillions of pics and links within this post? Let's strike up some interesting conversation.

Crazy Update: Man, I totally forgot about a whole other purchase I neglected to discuss. That's going to have to be the subject of another post. This day has to start sometime...

Culottes, Then and Now: Muslin 1 Begins

2012-02-03T04:02:00.000-08:00

OK, here are side-by each shots of the, left to right. TNT, altered Butterick (modern) and altered McCalls (vintage) culottes front pieces:

And here are the altered back pieces in a totally different order: Butterick, McCalls and TNT:

Like I said, I've got to start somewhere, so I've made reasonably minor crotch depth adjustments and I've also shortened the length by 1.25 inches. You'll also notice the shaded area with the arrow pointing to it which is where I added a reasonable amount (2/3 of an inch) of extra paper to straighten the hip to waist curve slightly. Thing is, looking at it now - and comparing it agains the original curve (see the 5th of 6 photos), that curve is practically as evident - the whole area is just wider. And, according to my estimations, widening this waist isn't going to help matters.

Well, the muslin is going to tell us whether the altered waist is too big and boxy, or whether it works.

Now below you can see the muslins I've cut out from some regrettably holey (bug-eaten?) worsted wool, vintage fabric that was gifted to me. (The kind gifter didn't realize that the fabric had seen better days. Guess that's what happens when fabric sits in your basement for 40 years.)

At any rate, it gives me the opportunity to make a muslin out of a wool fabric with good drape that I don't have to be sorry to use in this disposable capacity.

Note:

I didn't cut the entire length of the patterns - I don't really care about the width of the leg below the crotch, at this point. It's not the puzzle I'm currently trying to solve. It's possible that the finished legs, as is, may be very wide. I am a person with narrow legs. But I think I can manage proportion by taking fabric out of the inner and outer legs at a later stage. I also don't have that much fabric to use in this capacity.

You can see here how I've kept the inner-leg pleat closed for the muslin cutting. I really don't know if this is going to have some unintended (read: bad) consequences. Do I need to sew that pleat in order to determine what's happening with the crotch? Or is it actually a distraction on the matter of fit (it's just an extraneous element that doesn't actually impact the crotch so much as it abuts it)? I really have NO FREAKING IDEA. I mean, the pleat does go up to the waist on the McCalls. And it isn't like I'm going to leave out sewing the darts and (in the case of the McCalls) front pleats on the muslin. Again, if any experienced sewists can weigh in, I'll gladly take your feedback. Otherwise, wait till this weekend and, apparently, I'll play the role of the experienced sewist. :-)

Here's the McCalls (vintage) muslin:

OK, you can see where I've straightened the waist on the back piece, after all...

And here's the Butterick (modern) one:

Man, this is STRAIGHT compared with the McCalls above.

So, in the abstract, which shape of culottes do you prefer? You can really see the modern propensity for straight lines, yes?

Personally, I prefer the vintage shape (even as I may have mangled the waist to hip ratio on the back piece - or not). I like the way the legs flare. It's interesting to note that both patterns are basically the same length and the rise / waist height in both version is almost identical.

Please let me know your thoughts!

Mary Richards Was Here

2012-02-02T05:10:00.000-08:00

Oh, the hipster was nascent, but these patterns show she was alive and well...

1960s:

It seems strange that Simplicity 7866 isn't from the 70s, but 1967 is the year it debuted. This pattern is the 60s masquerading as the decade it would evolve into. Dipping its toe in, as it were. I suspect, though I don't limit myself in terms of the decades I choose to wear, the 70s is my natural habitat. I was born in 1970, after all.

But look at the pants here, slim and creased, and the skirt with its short, gentle A line... Never mind the capes, each one more awesome than the last. And, you probably don't know this, but years ago I bought a couple of yards of plaid (red tones on white) in thick wool which would make an awesome short version. Of course, I'll have to match the plaid which is why I haven't used the fabric in all the time I've owned it. Maybe this will be the kick in the ass I need to undertake that challenge? Lord knows, it's taking up a third of my fabric cupboard.

In its day, the woman who made this wardrobe was sharp. She worked in publishing or advertising. She ate at a little place on Right Bank where they respectfully called her Mademoiselle. She was on the Pill.

BTW, are those envelope sketches mega-skinny or what?? I'm vaguely disturbed by the relative calf circumference going on.

1970s:

And here we are at the last vintage pattern I have purchased (so far). Simplicity 7069 is a lace-insert slip with a twist - it's for stretch fabrics! Um, given that I've got a less-than-compact collection lingerie fabrics, I'm hoping I can figure out how to turn some of them into some stretchy slips.

The (theoretical) bonus of a slip made of stretch fabric is that I can make unaltered versions for friends. Stretch is infinitely more forgiving than woven lace or silk, for example. And it's on-the-cusp-of-disco groovy.

This is how I justify the purchase of another lingerie pattern, more specifically one to make slips. Work with me.

Thoughts? Feelings? Do you own either of these? Which vintage decade best defines your style (at least right now)? Do tell.

Culottes, Then and Now: Comparing Crotch Curves

2012-02-01T03:54:00.000-08:00

Most sewists will tell you that the most challenging part of making pants - and I believe that culottes do fall into this category for this purpose - is navigating the crazy minutiae of crotch depth.

How wide to make the back or the front crotch? How steep to draw the angle on each?

To complicate matters, culottes are not exactly pants. They're supposed to hang away from the body at the crotch by a longer distance - though who knows quite how much?? They're made (at least in the case of my modern and vintage versions) with an inner leg pleat on both front and back pieces.

Will that pleat meaningfully impact crotch depth? I suspect not, which is why I've cut my muslin fabric - see next post - with the pleats closed on the pattern pieces. At the muslin juncture, my goal is to ensure the tubes fit, not to manage non-impactful design elements. Of course, if I'm wrong - and pls. feel free to let me know your thoughts - my now-cut muslin fabric will be garbage.

Most sewists will also tell you to use one of your TNT pants patterns (those that fit like a glove due to 5-odd alteration cyles) to determine how best to adjust, prior to muslining, your next pants pattern.

I can tell you that works very well when you're going from pants to pants. Pants to culottes is more challenging, in the absence of relevant experience, because I don't know how - or how much - the crotch curve is meant to differ from that of the TNT pants. I've worked hard to make them the same. But you'll see how it's almost impossible to extrapolate one from the other, cuz pants fit against the crotch quite closely, while culottes will not.

Below is a shot of the crotch-area of the TNT on top of the Butterick back piece. I've shaded the areas that diverge particularly. You'll note how much taller from crotch to waist the modern culottes pattern is than the TNT. However, the crotch curve isn't all that different, in the scheme of things. Note that my TNT and the Butterick culottes delineate the crotch line on the back pieces. (The McCalls vintage pattern does not...):

The pen lines, in the photo below, demarcate where I've cut the Butterick back piece to reflect the TNT:

Below is the TNT pattern over the Butterick front piece. There's slightly more divergence here - it appears that the culottes angle is a bit more extreme than that of the TNT (see arrow):

Note: The top of the curve on the TNT piece (no arrow pointing) seems wider than the Butterick piece it rests atop because the seam allowance of the Butterick pattern centre front is folded back, while the TNT's is not. Because I've folded the culottes pleats it's not possible for me to show this differently without ripping the pattern.

The McCalls (vintage) culottes are very similar to the TNT at the front crotch (no photo available) - ~~though I did straighten the waist down to the hip (as you'll see in the next post, which shows a photograph of all the pieces side by side).~~ I did that because the TNT and the modern culottes share that design and, as a woman of a relatively full lower stomach, I didn't want to tempt fate. I don't adjust modern patterns in this way, but this vintage one has such a pronounced curve, it makes me nervous.

Update: I actually did the waist straightening on the back piece - for some reason I forgot that. The rationale is the same, but that's where I applied it. And I'm wondering at this moment - why did I alter the back piece for straightness when the area that concerns me (and that, apparently warrants straightening as the alteration) is the front waist, as it skims over my stomach? Hmmmm...

Finally, below you can see the rather extreme way I've had to modify the McCalls vintage back piece to more closely approximate that of the TNT (and Butterick, for that matter). I don't know how successful I've been - or (given the different hang needs of Culottes vs pants) how necessary that will be... Next post shows side-by-each shots.

It would be interesting to know how much of this modification - on all the pattern pieces - was required because of the difference between garment sizes: The TNT is a modern 14, the Butterick culottes are a modern 16 and the McCalls culottes are a vintage 18.

Any thoughts so far?

And while were talking, please let me know if these posts are making sense. I'm spending a ton of time on documenting this project which, I'm totally thrilled to do if it makes sense and interests my fab readers. It's possible I need more experience before writing about sewing in this kind of detail. Just cuz I can think it, doesn't mean I can tell it! So feel free to offer up advice...

Elegant Problem

2012-01-31T03:25:00.000-08:00

Does the vintage excitement here never end??

As it happens, a little while ago, I read Casey's post on some family-heirloom vintage patterns she recently received. This was one of the many gems:

Simplicity 4538, image courtesy of Casey's Elegant Musings

I was immediately enthralled. How chic, how body con, how (um) boxy in the construction. Those mid-century sewists really had it going on!

I searched online. I didn't find it. I even spoke with friends about this fascinating pattern I came across that's basically a square with holes for your head and arms. Just 2 seams! It went over well...

To compound the matter, Casey actually posted a photo of the finished garment today, and I almost climbed through the computer screen to snatch it from her then and there. (That sounds violent, I realize. I mean it only in the most pacific way.)

Oh, how I LOVE it!

It looks old fashioned, but not costume-y. It's got a great line. As a person of narrowish shoulders, it's just the kind of line that flatters me.

Fortunately, one of the commenters on Casey's latest post included a link to a similar vintage pattern: the Vintage Magic Blouse. I decided to spring for the pdf ($3.99 USD) and a minute later I had a new item for the metaphoric Sew List. Note that the pdf is just 2 pages of instruction. It doesn't include a bunch of 8.5x11 pages to tape together. It just tells you how to make the top, which includes some tubular knit having 54"circumference. (Note: Tubular knit is simply a width of fabric that's attached in a tube. That means it doesn't have any side seams. It's like a big cowl, if that makes any sense. Or a tube that a knitter would knit in the round.)

OK, I thought. I can get with this. I called a few of my usual stores in the garment district to ask about the availability of fabric that fits that description. Apparently, there's no challenge finding tube knits in that size range, but they're all variations on cotton aka t shirt knit aka not chic for a vintage garment!

Finally I asked the guy at King Textiles why I couldn't find myself a nice cashmere or merino. (I've noticed, in the past, the dearth of fine textiles in tube format.) And here's what he told me: You can't find tube fabric in luxe knits in Canada because, by and large, Canada doesn't mill fabric. It imports fabric.

Can you believe that cashmere tube knit is mega expensive to import and the demand just isn't that high? Honestly, the worst thing about living in Canada is trying to get stuff. You'd think we were in Australia. (Note to Australians: No offense! You're just kind of far away, and we're right here! All 12 of us.)

So, now my immediate life goal is to source some luxurious fabric having the kind of drape that will lend itself to constructing the Magic Blouse.

Please help.

If you live in Europe or if you know of some Euro based online vendor - or even an US one that sells tube knit in high-end textiles - pls. advise. I'd love to know how to source this stuff.

The more I sew, the more I learn that I am only limited by the textiles available to me. And, being in the middle of a distribution wasteland, I have to expand my horizons.

Culottes, Then and Now: The Experiment Begins

2012-01-30T05:24:00.000-08:00

I've got so many things to say about the culottes experiment, I barely know where to start.

I suppose it would be useful to remind you all now:

I'm no expert at either a) sewing or b) culottes. Follow along at your own risk. I recommend waiting to see how it all goes before using any of the info I opine about at length.

I'm totally enlisting your feedback. You who are sewing experts, you who have made many vintage patterns - those of you who've made culottes (specifically) - we need your help! I'm going to say a bunch of things based on what I've read, or what I've surmised, but if you know better (or different), do tell.

I'm showing a lot of photos of the versions of Culottes (M9805 aka vintage and B5681 aka modern) and, at least for the next couple of posts, they're all displayed with the inner leg pleats folded closed. That's the only way I could reasonably compare the crotch curves. You'll see what I mean as I go on.

My Vogue TNT is a modern Big 4 size 14 pattern. The Butterick modern pattern is a size 16. Hmmm. Wonder why I didn't consider cutting the Butterick in a size 14 given that modern sizing is standardized. Size 14 correlates to waist 28", hip 38". Size 16, as I've mentioned, is a 30" waist and 40" hip. I'm somewhere, size-wise, between the two but by using slimmer seam allowances and in light of pattern and fabric ease, I tend towards 14. Interesting that I forgot this... And to complicate matters, the vintage culottes are a (vintage standard) size 18. That correlates to a 30" waist and 39" hip. But vintage patterns are sometimes said to fit small. No doubt, fabric and pattern ease are really going to factor in. I only wish, at this point, I could predict how.

So, to get started, here are a few intro photos of side-by-side views of my now-traced TNT (V1166), M9805 and B5681. I urge you to notice on the "non-crotch" sides of the pattern pieces, specifically:

How utterly straight to the waist the TNT is. (Left piece)
How relatively curvy the vintage pattern is. (Right piece)
How the Butterick is more like the TNT. (Middle piece)
How much longer in the crotch both culottes pieces are in comparison with the mid-rise TNT pants pattern.

Back pieces, side-by-side

Front Pieces, side-by-side

Even accounting for my generally necessary, short crotch adjustment (about 1.25 inches on both front and back pieces - which you'll observe has already been done on the TNT), the culottes are way longer in the rise. I think that's partly cuz they're meant to be higher waisted than the pants. And I've read, in Pants for Real People, that culottes are meant to hang away from the body at the crotch by a much further distance than pants. How much farther, alas, they didn't say. We're merging the skirt with pants, peeps. Currently, it's a mystery.

First thing first, I removed some length in the crotch on both culottes pieces - approximately 1.25 inches. I don't know if it's the right course of action, but I have to start somewhere:

Back pieces, adjusted for crotch length

Front pieces, adjusted for crotch length

I think that's enough info for this post. My eyes are starting to cross...

Any thoughts about the experiment at this point? Please weigh in!

Ladies Wear

2012-01-29T05:21:00.000-08:00

As I continue to work my way through the pieces, envelopes and instructions sheets of my new old patterns, I am blown away. What beautiful antiques.

But they're so clear. Seriously, peeps, if you can understand the arcane instructions of a modern pattern, you'll have no problems working with those of ye olde ones. They haven't really updated the technical language in about a hundred years, from what I can tell.

1960s:

From 1965, Butterick 2674 is a ubiquitous sheath with a gored skirt. The jacket is optional! (I imagine that piece of marketing is somewhere in the instructions, complete with the exclamation mark.) This pattern is a size 16 1/2 (original pattern sizing), which means the envelope measurements show the bust is 37", waist 31" and hips 41". Unless the thing is small i.e. no pattern or fabric ease allowed, I'll probably have to do a bit of amending of the hips at least. But gotta love a bust measurement on a close fitting garment that will, theoretically, fit right out of the packet.

Awesome update: The woman who owned this pattern previously, put tons of notes all over the place, including one, faintly, on the front of the envelope which - if I'm interpreting it correctly - indicates that the finished garment measurements are: bust 37.5" to 38" (perfect for me!), waist 33.25" (gonna have to grade down) and hips 40" (also need to take a little bit away, but not as much as the envelope measurements would have me believe). Ya'll know how relatively easy it is to alter a waist and hip width vs. fixing a bodice for a full bust. I'll take that trade off.

OMG - other awesome update!!! - the woman left a remnant of the fabric she used to make her garment. It's a blue and brown geometric floral!!! And she either updated her facing pieces to suit herself, or she lost them and recut them - OUT OF NEWSPAPER PIECES. The journal used was "The Rural Lifeline". There's a small add that talks about the Dayton Power and Light Company, so this woman must have lived in Ohio! Oh, other update: She was from Fletcher, Ohio.

Let's reflect on this. Another real person with a real life expressed her sartorial perspectives with this dress, a good 5 years before I was born. We will wear it as relevantly as one another.

I feel overwhelmed. I want to make all of these gorgeous garments so much but I don't know where to start.

Have you ever had this sense when working with vintage patterns? Have you ever felt sublimely connected to another person on the basis of finished garment measurements and her lady-like script from another era?

I have to reflect and recuperate. More patterns tomorrow.

Culottes, Then and Now

2012-01-28T15:42:00.000-08:00

Let's go on an adventure, shall we?

In full disclosure, it's a sewing adventure, so you might already be bored. But I'm going to try to make it fascinating, like that subtype of documentary on PBS about physics (let's say) which, on the surface, is miserably dull but, despite yourself, by the end you are sad not to hear at least another hour's worth of info about the Law of Gravity. Note to reader: Once you get down to it, everything is somehow about the Law of Gravity. And is narrated by Martin Sheen.

OK, here's what I'm gonna do. Ya'll know about this pattern:

And you know this is the culottes pattern I have chosen to make as part of my Spring Basics Palette.

Wouldn't it be entrancing to see how they differ a) from each other - one vintage and one modern pattern and b) how the crotch curves of the original patterns differ from my own prior to alteration?

I know, you're drooling with anticipation.

But let me tell you a few other things before we get started on this path that's probably gonna take a few posts (and days of work, for that matter).

Sewist from way back, Lana, advised that:

Culottes date back to the 30's and were a kind of upgraded riding gear for women of that era.
Vintage versions tend to be made for those of extremely minimal derriere.

The new culottes (B5681) are a size 16 and the vintage ones (M9805) are an 18. These correlate with envelope sizing - waist 30" / hips 40" and waist 30" / hips 39". Standardized sizing has changed over the years, just to make things challenging.

I very gently opened the vintage pattern - still in factory folds - and carefully ironed it. You might as well tell me if this is a terrible crime to vintage. On the plus side, it made it possible for me to trace.

I also traced the modern pattern, though it was a total pain in the ass for something I could buy again tomorrow.

As yet untraced, boring, modern pattern...

Sassy, as yet untraced pocket of the vintage pattern.

How adorable that you get the WHOLE waistband when you sew vintage! (In truth, you get the whole waistband with the modern pattern too...)

More modern... Note that step action where the pleat meets the crotch. That doesn't happen in the vintage version (see below)...

More vintage... See how much more A line the vintage version appears to be? The modern one looks positively straight.

I love the way vintage patterns look. This one provides an ingenious double line to cut between in order to ensure you don't slice any of the seam allowance off when cutting into your fabric. This pattern also includes stitching lines in addition to cutting lines, so you can actually see the pattern sloper (aka block). Of course, modern patterns do not.

Intriguingly, the vintage pattern tissue was in very good shape, but the instructions (on construction paper) are definitely suffering the ravages of time. Weird since I don't think the pattern was ever used.

So, whatcha think? Are you game to compare vintage and modern garments? I'm going to muslin each of these (the top parts, any way) and which ever fits better will end up being the pattern I use to make my Spring Basics Palette culottes.

Time Traveling

2012-01-28T07:30:00.000-08:00

I received my Blue Gardenia package of vintage patterns, which I bought recently during the 30% off sale. Wow.

Those of you who know me well, know that I am endlessly fascinated by things of other eras. I love shopping for vintage clothes because I believe the pieces are invested with the experience of another time. Don't get me wrong. I'm not particularly nostalgic. I don't think that time is better than this time. But it was and there's an energetic current between then and now and I love the idea that those two times can merge in modernity.

Let's face it: modernity is just another word for tomorrow's olden days.

As I was filtering through the 8 zillion pattern's on Denise's site, I narrowed my search to those with a 36 or 37 inch bust; they had half size patterns back then, for petites, which is how one finds sizing in the odd sized bust measurement.

In truth, I'm not much into the 30s and 40s patterns. I do find some of them spectacular - and time was, the best vintage clothing you could find (and it was plentiful in the shops) was from the 40s. But I always feel I'm playing to type in the 40s silhouette.

I kept it to the 50s, 60s and 70s, searching for wearable items. Nothing frothy and delicious, but with limited application. I intend to bring these garments to life on a regular basis.

So, let's get started on the tour, yes? Today we'll focus on the earliest patterns I purchased.

The Fifties:

McCall's 9805, from 1954, will assist me in my very firm intention to resuscitate the culotte. Not as silly as a skirt, not as intense as a pair of pants, culottes are the perfect solution for a day on the town! They look great with boots, in a winter fabric. Cute with a short heel sandal or ballerina flats in spring and summer. They have not gone out of fashion. They've just been sleeping in the recesses of our collective memory. Admit it: you want some!

Intriguingly, this pattern is from the first wave of those made with printed pieces (see The First Printed Pattern imprint). Before this, pieces were made with perforations to delineate instructions. As I am, frankly, afraid of those, this is my kind of 50's pattern.

It's starting to occur to me that I was so fixated on getting the right bust size, that I didn't pay any attention to the corollary waist and hip sizes. Fortunately in this pattern, the waist is 30" and the hips are 39". Alas, for the dress below, the waist is 28". Gonna have to work on that.

Butterick 8628, also from the 50s though the precise year is not identified, is another printed pattern, a whimsical "quick 'n easy" day dress. Oh, look, it's got a cowl neck. What a surprise! While "quick 'n easy" - it's not "light on fabric". This thing takes 6 yards of 35" width. (There's no mention of 60" width fabric on the envelope. Did it even exist, back then?) The dress has a waist stay, which seems very authentic.

The bodice is cut on the bias, the way many cowl neck bodices are. Intriguingly, the construction of this bodice is exactly the same as that on Vogue 8413, the dress I intend to make from the Spring Basics Palette.

Do you suppose one has to wear a crinoline (or some kind of voluminous slip) to get the skirt to fall that way?

What do you think of these? Which do you prefer? Do you have anything to add about the pedigree of these? Have you had the pleasure to sew with vintage?

Next up, the 60s!

The Sewing Continues Apace...

2012-01-23T05:20:00.000-08:00

Somehow, though it's hard to say why - see, I've really have been trying to stay low key - I've been oddly productive on the sewing front.

I'm two (or three) garments down on the six I've committed to making for the Spring Basics Palette, now that I've completed the Kwik Sew yoga pants and another version of the Jalie top. The second top isn't technically in the plan, but I had my reasons.

Yesterday I spent an hour altering the yoga pants to match my TNT crotch depth and length and I'm shocked to tell you that it took a mere 15 minutes to cut the 3 pieces and then 2 hours to put the garment together. It's a really clear design. If you've ever sewn with knits before, or sewn pants before - and you know your way around a zig zag stitch and some elastic - it's quick. With a serger, it's delightful. Of course, getting to this stage takes some time. But once you're there, it's lovely.

I regret to say that photos make this (somewhat pedestrian, let's face it) garment look utterly shapeless. It's not. In fact, it fits well. Much better than my previous versions wherein I had not yet taken an 2 inches out of the back crotch length (I took the same 2 inches out of the front piece at the lengthen/shorten line to even the hems) and altered both front and back for crotch depth:

Oooh, pretty "faux coverstitch", accomplished with a twin needle.

These cost $12.00 to make. Not bad, given that ones you find in the store often cost 4 times that amount and, often, they don't fit well.

I'm thrilled to tell you that my serger completely cooperated on the pants project and on the second Jalie top:

This is one of the ways, other than a bow, in which you can wear the ties. They're threaded through an inch wide hole that begins an inch below the apex of the V. I've top stitched the seam allowances above the hole (to the apex) to keep that area clean and stable. The pattern doesn't actually instruct this, but I think it's wise the long run. However, it does mean that you can see the stitches.

I know that this looks weird at the front arm hole. Again, my dress form is wider than me and sometimes garments pull on it, though they do not pull on me. This is one of those instances.

You're right in wondering: Wait, a second. Didn't she say that the pants were gonna be grey? And that a second Jalie isn't a part of the Spring Basics palette.

Here's the thing. I realized a few days ago that I didn't have enough of the grey cotton jersey to make the yoga pants. I had 1 yard, 60" wide. It looked like enough when I turned it against the direction of greatest stretch, but when I realized what I was working with, it just wasn't going to fly.

At the same time, I found the remainder of the orange knit I used to make this wrap dress.

(On a total tangent: I did what someone recommended (can't remember who, right now!) and just cut the facings off that dress, right close to the top stitch line that I added in an effort to keep everything lying flat. You may remember that the facings kept flipping up. Nothing worked but cutting them off - and now the dress fits fantastically, even if it does look horrendous on the inside. I will likely not make it again, too much effort, but if I were to, I would totally finish the edges with self bias tape.)

Back to the Jalie: I had just enough of the orange knit to make the sleeveless version of the Scarf Collar Top. But I did have to shorten the tie by about 3 inches on each side. That's why the pull through version works better than a bow, though a compact bow is achievable.

This knit is more stable than the floral I used for the last version. I actually prefer the heavy drape of the floral bamboo jersey. This orange jersey is rayon, I think. It's got nice drape too, but it's not quite the same. So my vote is to use very drapey fabric. Almost as drapey as it gets.

I will use the grey jersey to make the T shirt for which I was intending to use the aubergine rayon knit. One must be flexible.

Note that I finished the sleeves before serging the sides together. And I finished the hem before serging the final side seam. I much prefer to finish flat garments, when possible.

Alas, I had just enough orange thread to do the top stitching - that was even using a different colour thread in the bobbin! - and my hem top stitching is woefully terrible. I had the machine tension set too high. Oh well, there's no fixing it now. So I'm just going to ignore that aspect of things and enjoy the rest of the work.

Proselytism

2012-01-22T07:38:00.000-08:00

Wow, yesterday's bra post topic is all top of mind this week... Here's some interesting additional reading on the topic. I can't tell you how fascinating this subject is to me. I really value everyone's comments on my last post about this. Discussion (and your own valuable experiences) is the spice of life!

To those of you (and you know who you are) who threaten/promise to one day get fitted, though you haven't yet had the opportunity, let me say this: It will change your life. Don't take my word for it. Everyone I've ever ~~bossed~~ coerced into doing it has utterly concurred with my perspective. Numerous bloggers have written the same thing. I only wish I had some juicy testimonials, below to add to the conviction. (I'm half inclined to make some up and pretend my friends wrote them!)

If I could, I would invite you for a fantastic shopping day, complete with an excellent lunch and cocktails. It would start in the morning with a bra fitting (btw, I'm veritably an expert - trust me!) and then move on to shopping for clothes. Regardless of your breast size and shape, once wearing the right size bra, you would be amazed by how much more gorgeously all of your new clothes fit - how, maybe even, your clothing size would change. And, when you took off those clothes, and looked perfect in a bra that hugs to your shape in the most beautiful way - and matches with some terrific undies, natch - you would be transformed.

This experience is not shallow. It goes to the core of identity. And it changes the outside from the inside.

Admittedly, I'm religious about this. When people have the bra experience with me it is perhaps, in part, affecting because I'm a cult of one :-) Also, there's booze and dessert! But it's an awesome thing to watch someone uncover a new sense of herself.

Relatively Speaking

2012-01-21T06:49:00.000-08:00

OK, back to scheduled programming - let's talk about the arcane bra-fitting rule that seems to be alive and well (and continually promoted) by a large subset of the industry.

That rule is: to fit a bra back, measure your under bust, add 4 inches (or 5 - if your under bust is an odd number of inches) and that's your back size. Associated with this is the cup size rule that states the difference in inches between under bust and bra-covered full bust measurement determines what letter you wear. One inch different is an A cup, and every additional inch equals an additional cup.

This might have been a prudent guideline in 1940, when bra materials were much less forgiving than they are now i.e. before Lycra and numerous other textile advances, but these days, bra bands are designed to stretch to the actual under bust measurement enumerated on the tag. Additionally, modern multiple-piece cup construction in malleable fabric makes this element of the fitting that much easier.

A snug band, as I've said so many times (as have many others), is the key to structural integrity. Those straps aren't holding up your boobs. It's the confluence of under wire and band (or just band, when there's no under wire). Natch, you want to have the ultimate snugness, within reason, on the loosest hooks when you buy, because that band is going to stretch over time and you don't want to waste your money on a bra back that will be too loose in 2 months.

Let's consider the terrible disservice that the antiquated bra-back rule does, when added to the cup size rule. If one's back size is a 32 and she adds 4 inches, that would put her in a 36 band. If the difference between her under bust and her full bust measurement is 5.5 inches, that posits she'd be an E cup (btw, the inches rule is a guideline, breast density and volume have a notable impact on how the inches correlate to numbers, I'm just using some basic assumptions here.)

We know from previous posts that there's an inverse relationship between back size and cup size. Remember: 30F=32E=34D=36C in terms of cup volume. So, a 36E bra has the same cup volume as a 34F or a 32G. If one's actual band size - which bands actually correlate to these days - is 32 and yet she wears a 36 band, the volume associated with that band size is going to be about 3 sizes larger than her own. And yet, the band is going to be loose and unsupportive and the whole thing's going to be a disaster.

To recap, the woman who should be in a 32E (or thereabouts, depending on brand and a few other nuances) will be wearing a bra cup having the same volume as a 32G cup (way too big) and the band will do fuck all to keep anything in check. The horror!

How is this bra going to look? Well, it really depends a lot on the actual woman wearing it, but the likelihood is that the centre gore (where the cups meet at the chest front) will pull away from the body (there's nothing to hold it in position with a loose band) and the cups will hang away from the breasts (the volume isn't there). Additionally, the straps will likely be too wide set for the 32 back frame. The under wires will be too wide for the breasts and the wings (side band) will pucker. The impact on fit under clothing will be lumps and sag.

You don't need to be this woman.

One of my self-professed "small breasted" blog friends asked whether, by this logic, she would be a size 30D. As I understand it, her under bust is a 29, her full bust is 33. According to this logic, she would probably be a 30D. Pls. note - a 30D bra is a bra for a woman of very modest endowment. It's much smaller than, for example a 36D, which is still fairly small on the modern bust scale. Now, were she to get fitted (which I strongly advise) she'd probably try on a range of sizes - 30D, 32C, 30C. She might be pretty shocked by the snugness of fit in a 30 band, since she's been wearing a 34 her whole life. It might really bother her, or it might appeal. I love the feel of a tight band. It doesn't irritate me at all. But many other women are sensitive to the wires and hooks - particularly as they adjust, having never worn anything adequately supportive in the past.

This isn't fully science. It's not all art. Those of us who sew understand how shockingly nuanced fit is - and we're generally not fitting anywhere near ultra-close. There is no room for error here. Happily, there is no need for it either.

Do share your experiences, please! Having been fitted, did you learn your back size was way off? Did you used to hate tight bands, but now you've adjusted? Do you have a bra fitting issue you want to share (who knows, we might be able to offer up some advice)?

New Frontier

2012-01-20T05:12:00.001-08:00

I have a sense this post is going to be all over the map. In theory, it's about bra-sizing and about how it's changed substantially since the 1940s, and why. But I know it's going to get somewhat mired in my complicated feelings about a particular style of lingerie blog - I'll call it the modern lingerie blog, not to imply that if one's lingerie blog doesn't conform to the model it isn't modern.

Let's kick off with that topic, shall we?

I love the UK and its lingerie market so much I can't stand it. First nation to recognize that many women have large breasts, and small frames, and good taste, and sex appeal, I really think the British are pioneers. Not to mention that they're the only ones who seem to make great-looking things that are also affordable. And that they have awesome online resources. You can't get me off my soap box on this one.

It shouldn't be a surprise, given this British facility and the culture that supports it and has sprung up as a result of it, that bloggers would seize on the opportunity to speak about their experiences and to share what they have learned.

That's what we style and fashion bloggers do. We put on great clothing and talk about why it's great and what makes us feel good. We deconstruct the intimacy and semiotics of garments. Body language, indeed.

But to reinsert the personal into the political: No question, I'm an exhibitionist. A remarkably vain one. Hopefully, a chic one. Most definitely, a communicative one :-) Under the right circumstances, I'm also a pretty apt voyeur. I do not believe in censorship. I routinely swear like a sailor in front of my kid (who doesn't ever swear as a result, weirdly, not that I'd care). She can watch and read pretty much what she likes, as long as she asks for clarification if she has any questions. I know my way around some fairly gritty areas of the web.

My point is that I'm not opposed to sharing my image and I'm not opposed to seeing the unvarnished images of others. Be who you want to be with me.

At the same time, I'm a professional. I'm a private person. I have a career and a community and I regularly censor my content within my own parameters because I don't want to be entirely knowable to, potentially, every human being on the planet at any time between now and the end of days. At this point, I'm sure some of you are laughing. What about that post you did on childbirth?, you're thinking. In the words of one of my friends: No one on the planet talks more about her boobs than you.

I have my parameters for privacy, as does every other blogger in the land.

Why then am I somewhat conflicted about the modern lingerie blog, that which profiles its writer modeling the latest lingerie and speaking about its relative merits and detractions? This blog-type is reinforced by contests hosted in the UK such as Star in a Bra (I'll let you link to it.) These blogs are legitimately about the undergarments and how they fit. They're also about body image. Many of the modern lingerie bloggers are rather curvy. They speak about the challenges of finding good, and gorgeous, support garments in sizes upwards of 30H. Many are rather sexy. They're young (early 20s); they're sassy. They have large breasts on small frames.

I'm sorry to be the one pointing at the obvious which we may not want to consider as it moves in the direction of infringement on modernity and personal freedom, but there seems no way to show oneself feeling confident and lovely wearing merely a bra and knickers when one is young and one's chest is, relatively speaking, ultra-voluptuous without bordering on a very different genre.

I don't mean to sound like someone's mother but, what about when these women decide to work at a bank or a law firm? It's statistically improbable that every one of them is going to continue in a life of non-conformism. What about when they meet a new guy and they just want to go out on a dinner date? The ubiquitous Google search is really gonna get in the way of that.

On the other hand, it is a kind of public service they're performing (and, arguably, a new kind of performance art form). Imagine being a young woman with large breasts and a small frame and not knowing how the fuck to wear anything and to feel good about how everything goes together given that all images of sexy women, heretofore, have been either in porn (mimicking her body shape) or in fashion modeling (the world of curve artifice, having no bearing on her shape in the least). I have been that woman and it isn't nice. I have also been my own lingerie pioneer lo the last 25 years and it would have been far less lonely to have some sistahs.

Things don't change without invested parties changing them. Many bloggers, such as myself, routinely proclaim the value of well-fitting lingerie and give advice on how to find and wear it. Why shouldn't the next-wave of this information-sharing be more, um, visual? Perhaps I'm responding more to the style of photography than the photography itself? Maybe I'm having my own "When I was a girl, we walked 5 miles in the snow to school..." moment?

I'm choosing not to link to these blogs because I don't want to associate my ambivalence with what they're doing. I know they blog with integrity and in the spirit of promoting good body image. If you're unfamiliar with this style of blog you can check out Fuller Figure Fuller Bust or Invest in Your Chest. There are quite a few of these blogs around right now.

I really would love to engage in debate here. What do you think? Is what you think so clouded by your age and stage that you wonder if it's relevant :-) Would you blog in this way? Do you value the information you can gain from these sites - I sure do.

(Oh, and I guess multiple topics notwithstanding, bra-size is going to have to be the topic of another post...)

The Measure of a Woman

2012-01-17T04:05:00.000-08:00

True story: Yesterday, I wore the Spring Basics Palette spring top which I'm not supposed to wear till spring. And I don't even care. I am such a badass! I was so bright. So cheerful. So popular (as I paired it with yellow tights and a lavender mini skirt). I was the most colourful thing you've ever seen. Also, it's really attractive and it makes my boobs look fantastic! Seriously, run out and buy this thing and then give me the credit when you look so gorgeous you can't stand yourself. OK, give the Jalie people a little bit of credit too.

At any rate, as an update to my update in my last post (about why all my patterns seem to be fitting large lately), I'm regrettably wrong in my initial assessment.

That assessment was that I must be getting leaner as a) everything seems to be fitting more loosely and b) all my new clothes (of TNT patterns) are particularly roomy.

As soon as I got home I took out my handy tape measure and took some notes. Alas, the numbers are almost identical to those of 2 years ago (and then of 3 months ago) - though somewhat smaller than those of 6 months ago (when I was on the eating binge). In fact, my bust and hip measurements are identical to those of January 2009 and April 2010. Those numbers don't seem to change. My waist - it's about 3/4 of an inch larger. Whatevs. I'm working on it. And it's January. And I like wine. Leave me alone.

There are some theories:

I'm 41 years old. My body is changing in shape.
I haven't been doing as much weight-bearing exercise lately. My muscle mass may be down, affecting fit.

These are supported by the fact that my RTW clothing seems to be fitting more loosely, in addition to my new handmade wares.

However, I think the likeliest reason for looseness of TNT (and even new, handmade) garments is that I'm sewing with smaller seam allowances. I never seam anything wider than 1/2 inch allowances these days. Often, I use a scant 1/2 inch or a generous 1/4 inch. I don't see any benefit in cutting too much fabric, only to let it languish in a seam allowance which, let's face it, is generally serged away. I guess I've just got to start cutting one size down given this predilection.

I don't know why this kind of thing fascinates me no end. Point is, though, the tape measure doesn't lie. And don't sew with 5/8" seam allowances. That's crazy wasteful.

Bouquet

2012-01-16T05:07:00.000-08:00

What can I say? Jalie 2921 is all that - just as every sewist on the planet has agreed.

This is the first of my six spring basics from the palette. Strange how I made the (arguably) springiest in deep January.

I've shown the ties in a bow, but you can string them through a small hole at the front to make a very chic scarf-front. Should have shown that version in pics too...

Trust me, the dress form doesn't do this garment justice. It fits beautifully. The drape of the rayon jersey is perfect. I'm sure the pattern was constructed with rayon or bamboo jersey in mind.

About the Pattern:

I cut the 8 though technically I'm between an 8 and 9.
I also carved out some additional curves at the waist of the pattern. I felt it was too straight.
Despite making something between a 7 and 8, Jalie-sizing, it fits well - maybe even a bit large. (Remember, my dress form has slightly wider shoulders than I do.)
I'm not saying the pattern categorically fits large. There's not a lot of ease built into the 1/4" seam-allowanced pattern. But rayon jersey has a lot of drape.
The burrito construction of the collar is as genius as everybody says. Just make sure, if you're using a serger - or even if you're not - to avoid catching the sandwiched front and back pieces when sewing closed the collar/ties.
I would not want to make this without a serger. It would be much more challenging to get the stitches to hold with such a stretchy fabric. And it's the drape of rayon jersey that really makes this pattern work.
I twin stitched the sleeve hem and bodice hem before closing the seams. It's easier to sew those things flat.
Now that I've made this, I can say that (once alteration have been accounted for and paper pattern traced and cut) it's a 4 hr from start to finish project. Which is entirely awesome, IMO. That's about as quick as it gets in my universe.
I did shorten the waist and arm length using the lengthen/shorten lines provided by the pattern. As per usual, I had to remove an inch from the waist. Then I hemmed at 1/2". The length of the piece is perfect.
I will make all 3 sleeve versions of this garment. Each will have numerous uses.
Way to take a T shirt and turn it into an elegant garment! Can't wait to wear it.

About the Croquis: It was my great goal to show you a mocked up version of this using my croquis. Alas, my ability to use the computer to "paint" is woefully inadequate. The dress form version is kind of like a 3-dimensional croquis.

This piece has taught me that I really need to sew with patterned-fabric more often. I've been intimidated by the urge to match at the seams. I'm almost over it. And this is so cheerful!

Whatcha think?

Update based on some thoughts I had while dressing: It seems that every time I review a pattern lately, I'm saying it fits large. Perhaps I have to rethink the sizes I'm making? I'll write about this in more detail later, but maybe my dimensions have changed more than I imagine. Hmmm, maybe I should pull out the tape measure??

Size Matters

2012-01-15T07:44:00.001-08:00

In my continuing quest to put all breasts in the right sized bras, please read this.

Pay careful attention to the part where it's explained that the volume of 34A-sized breasts is exactly the same as that of 28D-sized breasts. You can't judge the size of a breast by its cup size. You MUST consider the relationship between cup and band size.

That is all.

Tools of the Trade

2012-01-15T04:59:00.000-08:00

Today I realized I bought something totally useful, 2 years ago - before I really had a use for it:

Fashionary Sketch Book

It was a great idea then. It's a great idea now and it's much more popular (also somewhat more pricey than it used to be). Note: You don't buy it on Etsy anymore.

The croquis template provided on each page is terrific - not to mention the reference materials sections (which are increasingly useful as I try my hand at art as well as craft). The template shape, however, is incredibly long and slim. Happily, the page is dotted so lightly with the trace lines that I can use them simply as a guide.

To complement the sewing cache, earlier this week my latest gift to me arrived by post:

Jordana Paige Crafter's Tool Butler - I bought the aubergine colour.

Let's just say, this thing was a stupid splurge as - by the time I added the unreasonably-inflated shipping - the price went up 30%. American businesses need to stop charging this way. I'll go to any lengths, at this point, to get an item elsewhere because I feel RIPPED OFF. If you're an American vendor, take heed: We Canadians actually still spend money. Don't make it hard for us.

Alas, the needle holder not stocked anywhere in TO and I wanted it, so Ms. Paige wins this round.

It's quite nice. Not sure if I'll love it in the course of time, but I needed a solution and I don't tend to like most of the knitting accoutrements out there. They always seem to scream homespun. At least this one is taking a stab at modern. Vegans rejoice: It's fake leather.

You'll note I haven't been knitting. It's weird, but I don't seem to function in the knitting and sewing head spaces simultaneously. They both take so much focus and they're very different activities. No doubt, knitting is much harder on the body. So while I've got some sewing enthusiasm going, and while I can still stand to recuperate from the physical toll of last fall's knitting, I will make sewing my primary craft for the next little while.

Weekend Update

2012-01-14T07:29:00.001-08:00

A couple of notes as I head into a day of tracing, cutting and prepping (maybe even sewing?)...

Blue Ruby Slip Update: I wore it last week and I was amazed by how terrifically it stood up to a day at work. The silk completely kept static at bay - despite my wearing it with tights! The lace was much stronger than I imagined it would be. A part of me thought this thing was going to fall apart on first wearing but it went back on the hanger at the end of the day, barely even creased. This is the only bias cut thing I've ever worn, as far as I can remember. It's certainly the only silk, bias cut thing I've worn and it does feel strange to move in it. One feels the angle of the fabric - not off-puttingly, but it's unusual. At any rate, don't be scared of delicate looking lace. Chances are, if you pay enough money for it :-), it'll hold up to its function.

Croquis: I'm having some technical difficulties with digitally drawing outfits onto my croquis (aka I totally suck at it in a serious, disturbing way) and haven't yet cracked the code. I've had a really busy time at work which is mentally tiring in the off hours, so I don't know how and when you will be seeing the version of the palette that shows P.Cro. wearing the items I intend to make. I may have made some of those garments by the time I figure out the digital drawing!? I don't see that as a problem. These are separate skill sets and I'm not going to put unnecessary time constraints on myself. For now, the sewing gerbils have moved into the domain of sketching.

Tailoring: It seems, in my work role, I have a new need for jackets. I suspect that my next project, after completing the Spring Basics Wardrobe, will be to find and make some suit jackets. I don't want entire old-school suits. I'm looking at separates - even if they're constructed in the same fabrics i.e. pants and jacket or skirt and jacket - because I was there in the 90s and I'm not prepared to go back. I don't care if you're an investment banker - times have changed and one can be as creative with professional-wear as she chooses to be (IMO). Edgy creativity and elegance/formality need not be mutually exclusive. I can't wait to see how I pull this one off :-)

Update on the update: No sooner do I decide to delve into the suit jacket that I read about Craftsy's new Sew Retro course (taught by everybody's favourite sew-alonger Gertie). Here's the promo of the soon-to-be-released tutorial:

Sew Retro: The Starlet Suit Jacket:
Gretchen Hirsch is back with another Craftsy Sew Retro class! This time she’s going to show you how to make a suit jacket to knock ‘em dead!

Um, who loves starlets?! Who loves retro? Who needs suit jackets? (I have no idea, but something tells me this will be 40s-inspired. Wonder if I'm right...) Let's just say I've already signed up in my mind.

I Love This

2012-01-11T15:31:00.000-08:00

Type is one of the few bookstores left for lazy afternoon browsing. And I have to appreciate this marketing tour de force. Books need all the help they can get, peeps. (I should know - I barely ever read them anymore - unless they have the words "sew" or "knit" or "fit" or "fabric" in the title.)

True Blue

2012-01-08T14:25:00.000-08:00

OK, peeps, this is yet another post which capitalizes on everything blue - for starters a great sale that Ms. Denise of Blue Gardenia is hosting - but only from Jan. 15 - 17. If you are even thinking about buying a vintage pattern in the next few months, don't be crazy. Buy it then and save a lot! (Note: you do have to buy 3 patterns to get the discount but, trust me, it will take about 4 minutes to find the perfect 3. Her inventory is extensive!) I've got my eye on a slip pattern from the 70s- like I need another?! - and a 50s dress that happens to be petite (and it has a 37.5" bust). Um, that's just like me!

But let's focus on today's slip: the Blue Ruby:

Very Elizabeth Taylor, no?

You can just vaguely see the asymmetry in the lace on either side of the centre bust. Do you see how one side (right as you look at it) has embroidered leaves and the other side has star-shaped flowers?

I'd have modeled this on the dress form but its shoulders are too wide. I can get it over my head and boobs (just), but I've already damaged the silk (ugh) by trying to get it to conform to the shape of an inanimate form.

At any rate, here's what I can tell you about this version:

The lace cost a lot of money. Probably too much.
And I don't love it. It's too mesh-y, which means a) it's effectively weak and b) very starkly shows a bra underneath it. And you know I'm not wearing this without a bra.
The pattern, asymmetry is almost indiscernible, however.
I've decided that I'll only sew with denser lace in the future.
Oh, apropos of stitching down the lace seams: this time I did press both seam allowances to one side before top stitching at 1/8". The lace was too transparent to do it differently. And this didn't add any bulk.
The bra straps were actually pre-made. I got them from Bra-Makers Supply last year and what good fortune. I hate assembling hoops and sliders. Hurts my brain. Also, these straps are 1/2 inch, not 5/8 inch wide - which makes the slip look more delicate. I mean, they're not holding up any weight to speak of so that width is just fine. That the straps are black is actually handy. Since I'll likely wear the slip with a black bra underneath, I'd prefer not to have 2 diff shades of straps to contend with.
The silk skirt is beautiful and fits perfectly. Alas, the handkerchief hem didn't go so well. It looks great from the right side (see photo above), but the inside looks a bit gerbil-sewn.
Once again, I top stitched (under stitched) the bodice seam allowance to the slip. But this time I didn't first serge that seam. It was too narrow.
Here's something I didn't mention the last time, but it's germane: Because I increased the length of the bodice, the scalloped lace is now too high under my arm pit. I'm going to have to shape the pieces that abut under the arm so that they don't do this again. Not exactly sure how I'm going to accomplish this.

All this being said, I think it's a pretty good second effort. I'm glad I didn't use cheap materials. You can really feel the luxury of these fabrics.

I really do think that, for a woman of ample bust, the Ruby Slip gather bodice will be easier to fit. Silk charmeuse has a lot of natural give and I have a intuition that an underbust gather will "hug" the breasts (depending on their shape, and the gathers, natch). Silk is also stronger around the upper back and over the chest. Finally, it's easier to work a garment in one fabric, than in 2 disparate fabrics which meet a stress-bearing join. A decorative edge of lace is pretty, but not structurally integral.

As always, I welcome comments. Which of the 2 slips do you prefer? The shorter pink one? Or this one? I only wish I could present them in the same way for better comparison...

Palettable: Spring Basics

2012-01-07T17:20:00.001-08:00

Your looking at the culmination of a lot of work. A freakin' lot of work. And my husband would like you to know he did half of it.

(BTW, don't bother clicking on it unless you're only interested in a larger view of the colour swatches. However, if you right click the image and open it in another tab, you will be treated to the loveliest digital artwork!)

As you can see, my spring colour-scheme is decidedly northern. Partly, this is because I live, uh, in the North. Partly it's because I just can't do the springy pastel palette. Oh, I like it. It's lovely and sunny. It just doesn't reflect the shades and tones I wear.

I've planned six garments over 12 weeks:

Cowl Dress V8413
T Shirt from my Sew U: Home Stretch sloper
Butterick 5681 Culottes (I don't care if these have been out of fashion since 1979. I'm bringing them back, baby.)
2921 Jalie Scarf Collar Top. This won 2010 Pattern Review Pattern of the Year.
3115 Kwik Sew Yoga Pants
Ginger Skirt, version 3

I've made the dress, the T shirt, the yoga pants and the skirt at least once before. The yoga pants need some pattern alteration. When first I made them, I didn't understand crotch depth and length. Of course, on reconstruction, what can't be improved?

This project is about making things pretty. Making things well. It's also about making things I know I'll wear.

Let's deconstruct the value of each piece, shall we?

V8413 dress is flattering. Every time I wear my wearable muslin, so many people comment on how elegant it is. But, secretly, it's comfortable and easy! I'm going to make it in bright orange doubleknit, a colour and fabric I do not shy away from.
Y'all know I worked that T shirt pattern hard. Just check out the 8 zillion posts :-). A T shirt is endlessly useful. Esp. one in a cheery jewel tone rayon jersey.
The grey, cotton jersey yoga pants are practical writ large. They're not exciting, but they'll probably get more use than any of the other items. If I sort out the pattern to reflect my crotch depth and length, I'll really have done myself a good turn for the future.
The culottes are the outlier. I haven't seen the pattern pieces yet (though it's on order). I considered altering the Clovers into culottes, but I don't know if it will work with my current level of experience. I would love for these to work so I can make them for all seasons. For these, I've reserved the darkest fabric - a brown-burgundy wool blend suiting. I just can't see them in a bright colour, though I will wear them with bright colours (acid yellow, anyone?). I imagine these will be an early spring garment.
The Ginger, well, this skirt is a joy. And I've reserved for the bias cut version of it the most spectacular of colours - a cerise wool-blend twill of such depth that I am overjoyed just to look at it.
The final top, with a scarf tie, walks the line between euro chic and American classic. I'm going to throw in a little bit of gamine by using a lovely rayon jersey floral that combines all of the colours in my palette.

Can you believe that I had 3 of these fabrics in my stash already? And that I still spent $150 bucks on fabric?? (That does include some stupidly expensive lace I bought for the current and future Ruby's .) I mention this a) because it horrifies me that I'm spending triple digits on clothing that isn't actually made yet and b) because I feel compelled to remind us all that sewing is freakin' expensive. But not as expensive as gorgeous RTW or designer clothing.

One other note, the croquis is much cuter than the last one, no? It's cuz I drew it from a posey photo, not from a dour posture appropriate for charting measurements. I heartily suggest you do this. I feel much more like Posey Croquis (P.Cro?) than that last drawing.

Any thoughts about all of this? I'd love to hear from those of you who have already undertaken one of these palette projects. Or from those of you who might do one soon. (I have to imagine that Colette Patterns will reintroduce its Spring Palette Challenge, as I know it was very popular.)

The Slip Saga Continues...

2012-01-07T09:14:00.000-08:00

Brief update on the blue Ruby Slip. She is now cut out, skirt hanging on the dress form.

Some things of interest:

Silk charmeuse is not as delicate as it looks. I have washed it, hung it to dry and steam pressed it (yes, with actual water) and it actually looks glossy and hangs nicely. It's not the same as its prewashed self, but growth is good, yes?
Bias cut silk charmeuse is its own animal, people. OMG, what a princess! I can tell there's going to be some finagling with the hang.
OK, this one is baffling - turns out my new blue lace, scalloped on both edges of the 60" width fabric (also 30 bucks a yard, fyi, and I used almost a yard), has a different motif on one scalloped side than the other?!?!? How can this be. Admittedly, I didn't look at it closely as it was being cut - I never in a million years imagined this might occur. The motifs are complementary (as they would have to be) but the flower pattern is obvs deliberately different. One half of the front of my slip is going to have one motif. The other half will have the other. I'm going to call it an interesting design feature.
One other thing about cutting the lace. By the time you get to the lace, the cutting part of this project can be overwhelming. It really is the most tedious element. (I find cutting tedious at the best of times.) This time I decided not to be so matchy-matchy hardcore (obviously). The motif on this lace is airy. I just lay the pieces right next to each other as I cut them. That has to work, by logic, right? Even when you take seam allowances into consideration, there will be alignment. Or not. But it didn't torment me for 90 minutes this time.

Spring into Action

2012-01-06T19:16:00.000-08:00

Oh, I am somewhat overwhelmed by my imagination. So many ideas - not so much digital illustrating experience. And yet I want to show you what's in my mind the way that many other sewing bloggers do.

I also have this schizophrenic, if creative, perspective on my reasons for wanting to story board. That's the subject of another post. A really long post.

However, this post is to tell you that I intend to do a Spring Basics Palette over the next 12 weeks and here's what it will entail:

6 garments - 4 of which have been sewn with success before. This isn't about reinventing the wheel. It's about nicely finishing and newly interpreting some standards for a new season. The garments will include a dress, a skirt, a pair of pants, a t shirt, a top and a pair of lounge (aka yoga) pants. Pattern names and numbers will follow...

A fun, digital, fashion story board to show colour schemes and renderings of those garments on my croquis - likely not the one I've shown you already, but a new one (traced from another photo) which is more sassy. Having never yet tried to paint clothes on top of my croquis, I have no idea of how this is actually going to work. Palette experts, you may be getting some emails.

I'm going to give more details as soon as I can pull them together but I'll leave you with a few thoughts:

My colour choices are really whacky. I don't know if they'll cohere in a palette, though I'm not concerned that they won't cohere in my wardrobe.
I've already bought the fabric for 3 of the pieces and I have the fabric for 2 others in my stash. That leaves one garment to purchase for, unless I have some changes of heart.
I've spent about $150.00 on the fabric and notions for 3 of the 6 garments. The fabric I already purchased for the other 2 probably cost me $30.00. I speculate I will spend $200.00 and 6 weekends over the next 12 weeks to produce my spring wardrobe.
I estimate I would have to spend upwards of $600.00 to purchase these items RTW. Of course, that would take about 2 hours.
Recently, Peter wrote asked the interesting question "Are you a practical or fantasy sewer?" This didn't take more than a moment of consideration for me. I am practical. Of course, who can say if my version of practical is someone else's whimsical, but no mind. The Spring Basics Palette is so named because I anticipate the pieces to work interdependently - and day-to-day.

And to close the loop on the topic of the next version of the Ruby Slip and the fabric I've treated:

I heard you all re: concerns about the properties of guipure. I went out today and bought 2 new types of mesh-based lace - one piece in a light navy and another in black. I will make the next slip using one of these. (And for the one after that - the gathered bodice version - I'll use the other piece.)
In the end, neither the guipure nor silk swatches I hand-washed yesterday either a) bled colour or b) shrank in the least. Intriguing. The silk did change texture somewhat (not that I've ironed the swatch as yet, so the change may not be as pronounced as I'm currently imagining). Even with texture change, and slight loss of sheen, I opted to wash the rest of it by hand because I'm really not prepared to dry-clean. If fading or mega-shrinkage were in the cards, or if the fabric were to be fundamentally destroyed by water, I'd go that route. But it's just not the case. Will the silk look unaltered by this treatment? No. But you've all given me the confidence to try this method - and to recognize that there's not just one way to view silk.

So, if anyone has words of encouragement or advice (anything technical is welcome :-)) please chime in. If you've done the Colette Palette Challenges or a similar version, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Interim Update: Prepping Delicate Fabrics

2012-01-05T14:43:00.000-08:00

Thank you so much, everyone, for taking the time to share your experience and expertise re: caring for delicate fabrics.

Here's what I can tell you so far:

Marina, I take your point about the challenging quality of guipure. The key (or so I think at this point) is to make sure that one cuts to the outside of the stabilizing grid that contains the lace, otherwise it really starts to fall apart.
My goal is to use those grids as the anchor for sewing it some stabilizing underlining. My current options are some black power net with stretch 2-way stretch, some navy bra "wing" fabric (the stuff that makes the sides of your bra that attach to the cups on one side and the closure on the other) and some black mesh with no stretch.
The best drape is in the power net with a firm, 2-way stretch (but I'm not sure if I should be aiming to use a stable fabric with no stretch). I just don't want the underlayer to make the very drapey lace fall stiffly. Thoughts?
There's another alternative - that I might use the guipure to make the lace border for the gathered bodice version of the slip. This would minimize its structural element, while retaining the beautiful border.
I have hand-washed 2 swatches: one of the silk and one of the lace; both are currently air drying.
Neither appears to have bled much colour at all into the soapy water - maybe the guipure released a bit of dye.
Both seem as dark as they were, but they're wet.
I'll let you know about shrinkage/hand/sheen etc. when they dry.

Shout Out to the Experts: Prepping Delicate Fabrics

2012-01-03T16:34:00.000-08:00

I'm mentally (and technically) preparing myself for the next iteration of the Ruby Slip. This is the one that will use guipure lace and the most lovely, navy, silk charmeuse I've ever seen. Really, the hand on this stuff is awesome.

(Brief aside, for those who are unfamiliar with guipure - count me amongst yourselves: It's a rather sassy lace - it's not backed with netting in the way of "regular" lace. The stuff I bought is quite robust. I am concerned about the volume, but I love it so much, I'm going to throw caution to the wind.)

Here is my question with rationale (broken up into numerous sections?!):

I've looked through Claire Schaeffer's book to determine the best way to treat these fabrics. My hope was to wash them by hand before sewing as they both tend to shrink quite a bit. Alas, Ms. Schaeffer advises that dark-coloured silk tends to fade when hand-washed, and the satin shine dulls. Deal is, it will likely wreck that extremely luxe thing it's got going on.
I don't like dry-cleaning. I used to dry-clean everything until I realized it was poison and it doesn't so much clean your clothes as toxify them. I also don't like paying for the pleasure. And really, I've had some clothing ruined due to harsh handling when dry-cleaned, though not recently.
But I don't want to mess with the fabulous sheen and fall of the silk, the drape of the lace.
How would y'all procede: suck it up and dry clean (infrequently)? Or hand wash and risk disaster?

Side question:

Any of you who've sewn with guipure, please provide your insights. I believe it's popular in bridal tailoring (which is likely why Sherry, formerly a creator of wedding wear, was able to enlighten me about it's pedigree). What are your feelings about it? Is it a challenge, a pleasure - or something in between.

Slip Half Full

2012-01-02T14:46:00.001-08:00

If you can make heads or tails of the meaning of this post's title then I salute you!

But never mind you, friends. This is all about a little lady named Ruby... (Grab a drink, this is going to take a while):

I understitched the bodice to the skirt to give it a bit more structure, and to help to stabilize the lace.

See how much longer my bodice is than the original version? That's what happens when you add a bunch of inches to accommodate a full bust.

(All the best slips have mood lighting.)

I actually think the dress form looks a little sexy here. Is that possible??

Can you say gratuitous self indulgence??

The Good:

It's a wearable muslin, which is more than I can say about any other lingerie garment I've made before.
It's really pretty.
It's not hideously made - but I used cheap materials and you should never do that if you want something to turn out well. Note: If I'd used expensive materials and this thing fucked up, I'd want to kill myself, so it was a calculated trade off.
The thread could not have been a better-matched shade if I tried (it was in my stash?!). It means some of the dubious bodice seam sewing looks just fine when it really should not.
My franken-version of an FBA didn't work out half bad!

The Bad:

It really needs a bit more length in the bodice to actually seam at the narrowest part of my underbust. I have already cut the next version of the pattern, adding 0.5" to the bodice pieces. I hope that will work. It doesn't look that way on the dress form because the boobs on the form are slightly smaller than mine (and the ass is slightly larger, while we're clarifying).
I used cheap material and I'm sure it will impair the longevity of this wearable muslin. People, cheap lace is not strong. Keep this in mind. If I were able to make this slip without modification, I would only use the best lace. Hell, next time I make it I'm using the best lace.

Additional Info:

The short version is too short, IMO - and you know I'm not tall. I'm going to need to recut the skirt for the long version. (Note to self: Don't forget to recut the skirt for the longer size.
The bra straps work really well, as long as the lace to which you affix them has substance.
Handkerchief hems on bias skirts, using fabric that doesn't like to press are rather labour-intensive. Nonetheless, I like the finished effect.
I've adjusted the body so tremendously that I can't figure out exactly where the centre front notches should go anymore. I have tried to reason it out but my brain is tired.
I used a bra-making method to sew the bodice seams, which I think is slightly different from the many good seam-finishing methods that Sherry suggests. Because I didn't want any bulk at all, and because I know from past experience that closely top stitched seams on lace don't fray, I pressed open the seams (after checking fit 8 zillion times), topstitched about 1/8" from the seam and then used applique scissors to cut the seam allowance very close to the top stitched seam on the wrong side of the garment. I didn't overlock those seams.
It wouldn't have been a bad idea to underline the weak lace with power net (which I have) but I didn't know what I was doing and I didn't want to deviate too much from the plan.
I only increased the circumference of the skirt by about an inch on the front (divided over the 2 side seams). I did this to accommodate the reasonably small amount of extra width of the bodice (the result of the FBA). In a perfect world there would be no increase of underbust measurement but it's pretty tricky to make something this fitted with vastly divergent needs at underbust vs full bust. Remember, I've got almost a 5" difference in those measurements as a result of large breasts and a narrow frame. It's a challenging alteration.
I actually unstitched the seam of the skirt to the bodice after serging the seam, to get back about 1/4 of an inch of length. This is one of the reasons that I understitched. I felt it really needed some reinforcement.

Man, I'm tired.

Please write me a comment and tell me that you love this - or say anything else you'd like. Let's talk!

In the Navy

2012-01-01T09:46:00.000-08:00

Meet my New Year's eve outfit:

Oooh, navy on navy. How do they look so different? These are the Clover pants and V8323.

This completely poseur-y shot was actually taken while I was adjusting my hair (all 1 inch of it). But it shows the lines of the outfit well, I think.

This equally poseur-y shot is for y'all cuz I think you all deserve a kiss!

This nice-girl photo is for my mother, cuz she loves shots like this...

I can't tell you how it thrills me to wear an outfit entirely of my own construction!

Now, you may know that I was taking some big time chances on the centre back (my alteration) invisible zipper holding up. I figured, in a worst case scenario it could be a fun "OMG, 2011 totally sucked" story: There I was, raising a glass of bubbly and my freakin' pants fell apart. At a party?!? I am SO ready for 2012...

I definitely need to slender out a smidge before wearing them again. But I do think they're going to be go-to pants when I lose a bit of volume in my derriere, post-Xmas.

The Good:

I'm super pleased by the pants crotch length and depth, which I altered to suit my shape.
I did really nice work on the facing at the back zip by morphing up the instructions for the Clovers and the Ginger skirt (which has a back zipper). I'm starting to get with that insertion technique Sarai espouses, which I didn't like at first. It really is freakin' clean, if you can get it to work.
I finally realized that, when you alter the waistline of your pants, you will absolutely need to alter the waistband and facing: where they sit, where they seam, maybe even how they're curved (slightly). It's not rocket science but it is finicky and time-consuming.
And let's give me a pat on the back for moving the zipper in the first place. Of course, it was probably harder than just figuring out how to get the zipper to insert nicely at the curved side seam, but you live, you learn.
I think that the adjustments I made on the second version of V8323 really do improve the proportions on me. The neck is notably less chokey.
I also like the peplum bestowed on the design by virtue of the drape of the fabric. It's nice and flowy.
I LOVE both fabrics - colour (obvs, if I had to choose 1 colour to wear for the rest of my life it would easily be navy) and hand/drape of each. Both sewed very evenly.

The Less Good:

I really don't love invisible zippers on stress points. I can see how they're a smarter zip for a side opening, than a centre-back opening.
The pants are too tight right now, but it's not a critical issue. I can tell that they're tight where I've gained a bit of mass over the hols.

What I have observed about my wardrobe is that I wear my own handiwork most days - sometimes one piece, sometimes an entire outfit including scarf and coat?! Also, can we chat about the hand-made coat for a second? I cannot believe I made it. I must have been high on drugs to undertake hand tailoring when sewing for less than a year. And, sadly, I can't wrap my brain around ever wanting to do something so complex again. But look, it's NAVY!

What's your default sewing colour?

Slippery

2012-01-01T05:37:00.000-08:00

OK, Sherry would like you to know that she loves cutting out lace as it inspires her to sew things up right afterwards. For my money, this activity was a seriously brain-hurting and tedious couple of hours. And I still don't know if things are going to line up. But somehow, at this point, I find it hard to care.

For starters, I did use up a yard of lace, scalloped on both sides. I bought a yard and a half, so all is well, but I had a couple of cutting mishaps on the (scallop lace-intensive) back piece. I feel terrible that I'll have no use for the scallop-free 60" width of this. Anyone have any ideas about what one can do with it after the fact??

Ooh, pink and pretty! (I seem to be on a "pretty" kick lately.) Remember, I did my own version of the FBA on this fabric.

Here's a shot of the creative process in action :-) It took me longer than I'd like to admit to piece the bodice together.

And here's a shot of the front skirt on the bias! I don't think I've ever cut on the bias before. It was seriously fussy. Kind of like the lace!

Here's my theory about this project: The bulk of the travail is in the cutting. (BTW, I really hope that theory is right because I want the hard part to be over!)

What I mean is, yes, the bias sewing might take some tweaking i.e. basting first and hanging for a couple of days to see what curls, and how. But, in truth, it's sewing a couple of seams and finishing them. The lace may be fussy to work with, but let's remember I've made many bras (no, none that actually fit, whatever), but their construction has taught me some skills I hope will be useful in the sewing phase of this project.

Pretty well every project I undertake is aspirational. At some point, I become sucked in by the potential that the finished garment might just be the most gorgeous, well-fitted, perfectly constructed thing that's ever been sewn. Often, my hopes are dashed when the final stitch is sewn. Sometimes, I am very happy with the finished result. I generally have to choose between excellent construction, perfect fit and gorgeousness. For some reason, that trifecta seems to elude me. :-)

But man, I can't tell you how I hope that this thing will work well. It borders on the lingerie that I haven't yet perfected. How awesome would it be to figure out an FBA the likes of which means that an actual undergarment (albeit not a bra) will fit? I wear slips. I love slips. I want to make my own excellent slip!

Give me your good vibes, ok? (No pressure.)

Ringing in the New Year

2011-12-31T08:36:00.001-08:00

Alors, Twitter is down and I can't express my every ~~mundane~~ brilliant thought in that universe. Micro-blogging is SO not over.

In lieu of being able to share there, you will be treated (or should I say, tweeted) to a few of my deepest, end-of-year thoughts:

I haven't left the house since Dec. 23. Does that make me seem agoraphobic?
I'm seriously considering taking 3 weeks off every winter (this presumes I have a whack of vacation, but let's dream, shall we?) to get through the worst of the winter misery.
The more I sleep, the more I want to sleep. This is simply unproductive.
I have got to get a grip on food consumption. Fortunately, so does everyone else on the planet. Nothing like being in good company.
Y'all know I don't believe in resolutions. They're so resolute. (What's the fun in that?)
Having said that, I intend to take up a new "craft" today: figure sketching.
Note to self: See if you can convince FIT graduate and fashion designer extraordinaire Stacy Lomman to write a post on this.
I must have the ability to draw cute pics of myself wearing the adorable outfits I see on others or the things I come up with from my own imagination.
How bad can it be? You don't have to cut anything or rip anything out.
Famous first words.

At the risk of getting sentimental at the seasonally appropriate moment, I wish you all a better year in 2012 - regardless of how wonderful 2011 may (or may not) have been. Your readership is inexpressibly meaningful to me and forms a good part of my drive to document my crazy craft and life experiences.

To those of you who also blog - I learn practically everything I know of technique and knitting and sewing from you and I thank you from the bottom of my heart. The act of blogging is part vocation, part exhibitionism and part public service. If I have been able to give even the smallest part of what I have received, then I am doing good work.

Love, K

Croquis, Anyone?

2011-12-29T18:28:00.000-08:00

I'm either enlightened or fucking crazy to be sharing this sketch of myself with the world:

Welcome to the ultimate vanity project.

I'm in the process of creating a more complete version of this with all of my horizontal and vertical measurements, but I thought I'd save you from it. :-)

I can scarcely report the 8 zillion steps involved in creating this. How I wish I could make fab digital sketches of myself wearing different items, like this. As it is, I don't know what use this will be to me in terms of adding clothing electronically, though I can print it out and sketch clothing ideas on top of the croquis.

Let's review this for a few moments, shall we?

I think it's time for a rousing chorus of "Fuck Barbie". Seriously, this is an accurate outline of me, apparently and, while at first I was shocked, now that I've spent 12 hours staring at it intently, it seems just fine.

What stands out most? My arms are freakin' long. I've always known this, but it's really writ large, huh? Obvs, my breasts are large and my shoulders narrow, but I'm a bit surprised that my waist isn't narrower. In my view of myself, it's very waspy :-)

Let me also say that I don't think it matters what this picture shows. When I'm walking around in the world, my essential self shines through. And it is hot, thank you very much.

So, what do you say. If you could twitch your nose and have your own croquis, would you do it? Do you find it reductionist? Let's discuss.

Easy Does It

2011-12-29T16:20:00.001-08:00

I'm about 3/4 through the latest iteration of the Clover pants and, of course, I have some feelings.

Why did I decide to turn the side zip into a back zip??
Oh yeah, the last insertion of the side zip was so horrifying, it seemed prudent when I started this.
Alas, there are all kinds of things one must consider when moving a zipper i.e. cutting 2 back facing and waistband pieces, not one and when, exactly, does one insert the invisible zipper?
I made a waist adjustment to this version - essentially I cut an inch off the previous version at the waist.
Then I discovered that the ease in the fabric I'm currently using is rather different than that of the previously-used denim.
Of course, having already finished the inner leg seams, my only recourse was to seriously diminish the seam allowances on the outer legs.
Which means there's practically no way I can faux fell the seams.
BTW, is there a secret to faux felling when one has already sewn up the tubes of the legs? Seam allowance issue aside, I don't know how I might be able to sew to the bottom of the leg with my machine, given bunching. Maybe I need a free-arm?
Next machine I get is going to have a) a free-arm and b) it will be mechanical.
This fabric has so much drape (I suspected this might be the case) that there will be pulling at the crotch.
It's not that the garment doesn't fit (though it sure as hell isn't loose in that area) but the fabric falls and extends so readily, that the confluence of the 3 tubes (waist, leg one and leg two) invites drag.
I'm so sick and tired of all the "OMG, there's pulling at the crotch" talk out there. We're human beings. When we move, the fabric reserves the right to drag.
Nonetheless, it makes me feel bad.
I'm not going to judge the process right now. This could all come back from the edge.
But if it doesn't, I don't know that I will give this pattern another go around.
Maybe that's the post-sewing haze talking.
Where's my wine?

Holiday Sewing: Ginger Skirt

2011-12-29T08:25:00.001-08:00

Off to start another day of crafting soon (c'mon it's practically half over already), but I'll share with you a delightful finished project, the Ginger skirt, made yesterday:

Winter lighting and dark denim just don't mix... You have to trust me, it's adorable.

The inside is as lovely as the outside! I used mock flat-felled seams and they worked really well. Got to use my serger, to which I am very attached, but with a different finished effect. Isn't the contrast facing at the inner waistband lovely. It also helps to diminish bulk, which is an issue when sewing with denim.

I used some seam binding on top of the serged hem, just cuz. I wanted to do pretty-sewing techniques in support of the prettiest skirt in the land.

This is the most unapologetically, almost-teeth-hurtingly, pretty thing I have ever made. Hell, it's practically the prettiest design I've ever seen.

A few thoughts:

I love this skirt. I will, no doubt make all 3 versions. The drape of the A-line is lovely.
As always, Colette patterns are a joy to sew. Even if I hated the finished outcome, I would have enjoyed the process.
While a boob-reminiscent filigree waistband is probably not the best thing to put adjacent to my not-insubstantial chest, whatevs. I'll wear a slim top, tucked in. You can't go with boring-old "suits your figure" all the time.
The seam binding at the hem gives a bit of body to complement that of the denim's drape. Really like the heightened A-line effect.
This denim is not particularly soft. It's got a lot of innate structure.
The great thing about making a simple pattern is that it gives you mental space to do pretty finishing. I don't consider this often enough.
I made the size 8 with 1/2 inch seam allowances on side seams. It's not an overly long skirt. I wanted mine to be approx. knee-length and I didn't have to shorten it at all. Also, only turned up the hem by 1/2 inch. If you're tall, you'll want to add length.
The only bad thing I can say about this - and take note here! - is that one should NOT use invisible zips with denim. How many times do I have to do this before I finally learn?? I have concerns about the longevity of the zipper given the bulk of the fabric. Shhhh. Let's be really careful with it and hope for the best.
I must be a slow-sewist because it took me a good 5 hours to put this together - probably more. Who are all of these ladies who manage to make gorgeous "simple skirts" in 2 hours??
I stitched in the ditch around the waistband. Don't know why I haven't done that before. It gets rid of the riding up facing issue beautifully. Just make sure your facing is a smidge longer than the waistband itself.

What do you think?? If you've made this skirt, share your experience. If you haven't, is it in your pattern stash?

PS: The never-ending computer-generated croquis project continues apace. I'm making headway but, egad, what a labour-intensive activity. I've probably put 10 hrs into it so far... Stay tuned for more on this as I have more to say.

FBA Continued...

2011-12-27T12:14:00.000-08:00

Today has been an interesting day. I was derailed by all the things I meant to do by lots of things I imagined I might do someday - namely the construction of a croquis.

This sketch of oneself is becoming quite popular, all of a sudden, it would seem. In the last couple of weeks I've read no fewer than 5 accounts of how to, and why and what. In truth, my husband has been doing the heavy lifting on the project. He's already spent a few hours trying to create a vector diagram from a photo of me, using Inkscape. The reason our aim is to do this, rather than hand sketching a close-cropped picture, is that the end result will be scalable. (Also, it's kind of cool to create an image the likes of which one sees assembled on high-tech computers in action films; you know, like when they're trying to create a composite of the bad guy.)

Why spend the time and effort? Really, why not? At the end, I'll have a customized me-shaped sketch onto which I can draw fun designs that will suit my particular shape. Why should I consider my next outfit in relation to a figure that's 5'8", long-waisted and boob-free? I hope that this will be the next step on my journey of self-taught fashion design.

If the dress form fiasco hadn't already cured me of vanity, lord knows, this little project would achieve that objective in a flash. I have become so comfortable with body as an object, it's bizarre. More and more, I am pointedly aware of my every asymmetry, of convexity and concavity as it applies to me. Now I just find it all technically interesting. Sort of like doing an FBA...

Apropos of that, I've completed the Sherry-prescribed version of the Ruby Slip FBA and compared it to the one I attempted last week. Both versions add 1.5 inches to the original pattern bust dimensions. The one I "developed", for whatever reason, feels like the right one to cut first. (Fortunately I have enough fabric to try both versions, if required.)

Both FBA-altered paper pattern pieces are very similar in the side back piece. However, my version of the front piece is, intriguingly, wider all over, and specifically by 1 inch at the under bust vs. Sherry's. I didn't realize that till I compared the two of them today. So glad that Sherry reminds sew-alongers to increase the under bust dimensions an equivalent amount to any increase in bust width.

As such, I added 1 inch to either side of the front skirt and tapered to the waist notches. (I didn't defray the total 2-inch amount over the entire size of the skirt i.e. front and back, because I really do want the increase at the front.) The front bust piece is longer in Sherry's FBA version, and overall it is quite a bit slimmer. I have a full upper bust so I sense I need more width at the top of the piece. It just doesn't look like the Sherry-version, as it stands currently, is going to provide the volume I need, despite the addition of width at the side of the front piece where it meets the side back piece.

Man, if you don't sew - hell, if you don't adjust for a full bust - that paragraph must have been totally painful.

I really have no idea of how this is all going to play out. That's the fun and anxiety of sewing. This may be the best thing I've ever figured out on my own, or it might be a mere stepping stone to the next version. Potentially a frustrating one.

Nonetheless, I will keep on.

Today I've also cut the Ginger skirt, version 2 and pulled out the pattern and fabric to make another pair of Clovers. I'm so tempted to alter them into culottes, I just don't know if I'll be able to stop myself.

Any thoughts on croquis? Have you done one? Has anyone done an FBA on the Ruby Slip yet? Thoughts about Clovers or Gingers you haven't had a chance to chat about yet? Please let's talk!

Winter Haven

2011-12-23T13:19:00.000-08:00

Hello Friends: Things are about to go all Xmas supernova here, so I should take this moment to remind ~~you~~ us that it doesn't matter if your quiche is too cooked in the crust and somewhat raw in the centre. Or if your parents are about to arrive in the midst of their (rather ill-timed, let's face it) mid-winter spiritual cleanse. No mind if you have 12 (or 50) unwrapped gifts. Don't even fuss if you need 12 gifts and you haven't a one.

I encourage a fire in the fireplace if possible. And some hot chocolate or egg nog (but homemade pls - that stuff from the grocery store is diabetes in carton!). You could always skip the nog in favour of the rum. How about some Xmas jazz on internet radio? Got dinner cooking? No? Then step out to your neighbourhood spot and let someone else do the cleaning up. Be sure to tip well!

Let's say you feel you've dropped the ball on home decorating. I bet you've got a local place that sells boughs and wreaths and greenery you can vase-up Noel-style in a jiffy.

No need to feel Xmas angst. Don't go all mid-winter miserable. Worst case scenario: all this insanity will be over in 3 days. And even if it's not your scene, don't they say a change is better than a rest?

I'll leave you with my final knitting project of 2011, a fantastic shawl, the Glen Haven (see Ravelry for more deets):

Have a wonderful next few days. I hope you have a chance to enjoy or reflect - or both! Here's to the days getting lighter. xoxo

Wherein I Brag and Why FBA Measurements Are Dubious Things

2011-12-19T17:44:00.001-08:00

The Brag Part of the Post:

You know, when the inside of my garments look as if gerbils have assembled them, I confess. (No, I don't actually show you the evidence, cuz I do have a modicum of pride...) But when I make something and it's fantastically constructed, I'm not going to be all modest and coy. I mean, freakin' hell, that's the reason I spend half of my waking hours learning the craft.

To wit, meet Vogue 8323 the second:

I know it seems as if the arms don't fit, but I swear, on me they do.

Alas, whether it was the fabric or the lighting, this garment just would not take a good photo. There's no justice.

I would happily show you the inside seams, if I could bring myself to undertake the irritation that is undressing the dress form.

In this iteration, I did figure out some things:

Though I removed 2 inches of funnel neck, it wasn't enough. I'm starting to wonder if it's got something to do with the way the neck meets the front. Maybe this pattern is designed for a gazelle.
There's no option to roll down the neck and flip back the front v-pieces. The front does this very nicely but the seam going up the centre back piece prevents it from working at the back. I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out how to remediate this but, if it's doable, my brain couldn't crack the code. I even used some seam binding to try to pretty things up (you can see that in the photo with my rather unkempt thumb) but it was a no go.
The great thing about making half my wardrobe in navy is that I always have all manner of notions hanging around in the right colour!
In addition to altering the neck, this time I removed width from the arm by slimming the pattern piece at the centre. Unfortunately this made the shoulder totally pointy and I didn't think to smooth it on paper (really, I didn't know if that would wreck things). Now I know that shortening the shoulder by rounding the top of the piece is the right move. I was able to adjust this in the sewing, but it was a pain in the ass.
I shortened the sleeves.
I re-lengthened the waist (last time I made the "petite" modification) and I'm glad I did. After shortening the neck, I needed the extra in the waist. Does that even make sense?
This fabric likes my serger, and vice versa, much better than the coffee-coloured fancy fleece.
The fabric is beautiful - very slim. Totally elegant. I think it's a wool jersey.
Though I like this version, I think I'm done with the pattern. The neck thing bothers me. The whole shirt would look much better on me if I could roll open the v (and roll down the funnel).

The FBA Part of the Post:

At any rate, this is the other thing I did on the weekend: I rotated the dart on the FBAed bust piece of the Ruby Slip and I'm pretty sure I've got the same dimensions that I would have got if I'd simply followed Sherry's tutorial. Of course, I'm going to try her version to compare before cutting my fabric, but I find it endlessly fascinating that I might come up wit the same end result by using a completely different method.)

And apropos of the additional inches you'll need to add when doing your own FBA: The general rule is to add an inch for each cup size that your bust size deviates from the bust size that the pattern was designed for. Sherry designed for a B cup (as do many, if not most, commercial pattern companies). By this logic, if you have a D cup, you'll need to add 2 inches. This may work well for women who are not narrow in the back. But I can tell you from personal experience that the narrower your back, the less of an FBA you'll need to do, relatively speaking.

Think about it: The size 12 (which I'm making) has a full bust dimension of 36.5 inches. My full bust measurement is 37 - 37.5. My chest is, as we know, quite a bit larger than the B cup Sherry designed for. And still I only need to add 1.5 inches onto the pattern piece. My own version of the FBA (pinned to my dress form) bears this out. (Note - I've further adjusted the length since the version I posted photos of. Wait till my next post on this to see the side by side views.)

The point is that bust size in clothing is as much about the relationship between underbust and full bust as it is about actual dimensions. My underbust is 33 inches. My chest gets to pick up the fabric slack, as it were, that my back doesn't need.

I've spent a lot of time thinking about this - basically all the time I spend making clothing - and I'd love to know if any of you have discovered this principle works for you too.

Let's chat about any of the 8000 things I seem to have written about in this post. Please!

Saturday Morning Experiment

2011-12-17T10:00:00.000-08:00

Oh, Friends, where are those Cinderella mice when you need them?

As I can't wait to read the upcoming tutorial on how to FBA the Ruby Slip - I've given it a few hours of, um, mega pattern alteration brain cells. In a strange twist, I've actually managed to use my dress form for its intended purpose, as opposed to its general function as "nice clothes hanger for photos". Disclaimer: I have no actual training, so today's hard-thinking might all be an interesting experiment.

Here's what you need to know. I'm not cutting anything until I see Sherry's methodology. My version retains a) the original size 12 pattern under bust circumference (though the side back and back pieces are now 1/2 an inch higher i.e. vertically longer) and b) v neck shape - but it does introduce a dart I cannot seem to get rid of by moving it out to the side. Maybe my imagination is simply failing me after hours of work. I suppose having attended fashion school has its benefits. :-)

At this moment, I am actually unable to articulate the scope of what I'm thinking and what I want to do. I wish I could plug you all into my brain for a few seconds like they do in scary scifi movies. It stresses me out, sometimes, to have so many things to say and do and to be incapable of making it all happen instantaneously.

But enough of my intriguing neuro-chemical landscape...

My sewing room is such a tip after 3 hours of doing practically nothing tangible that I find it hard to believe:

My altered pieces look rather different, and considerably larger, than the original size 12 pieces that I cut:

This is the side back. The one on the left is the altered version...

And here's the front piece, larger, altered version on the bottom. See how much smaller the unaltered piece is - admittedly, it doesn't have a dart, but still!

Side by side shot of the pieces..

Finally, here are a couple of shots of the fabric combos I intend to use to make 2 slips. I'm seriously counting on it that the FBA thing will work - mine or Sherry's! - or I'm sitting on some pretty expensive lace. That blue stuff cost 30 bucks a yard on sale. It's also quite heavy. I have no idea how I will dart or gather it. I intend to use lingerie straps with slides because I happen to have them and I like the look.

Note: I have underlining options for both the pink and blue lace, if extra structure is required.

Whatcha think?

Ms. Mojo Risin'

2011-12-14T15:17:00.001-08:00

Quick post to tell you: I know what I'm sewing next. And next. And then after that.

My imagination, which seemed to vacate the sewing premises for a while, has returned in force.

If only I had time to indulge the impulse.

Will show fabrics anon but - with scarcely any time to blog, much less photo (I've been to 6 holiday gatherings since last Friday night), let me say that I had an hour on my hands in the garment district yesterday eve and I did some damage: silk charmeuse (navy), the most gorgeous square-patterned, modern-seeming lace (navy), some denim (navy), a very thin sweater knit with good drape (navy) (yes, I do see the theme)... Then I got some pink lace (not as special as the blue but well matched to the poly crepe I also purchased). I got some pink petersham at Mokuba - talk about selling the farm for dainties. Note: Mokuba has some stretch and woven faux fur in a number of great colours/widths/styles that are so lovely they're almost turning me to the fake side. But not quite. For 105.00 a metre, you too can own some of the wider stuff - and by wider I mean 12 inches (maybe). Finally, I bought a yard of really nice t shirt material in grey. Oh, and zippers and thread.

In brief:

Gonna use the lace / silky combos to make a pink and then navy slip with Sherry's great pattern. Good news, Ladies, she's going to do an FBA tutorial!
Gonna use the navy thin knit to make another version of this that drapes better and actually fits in the neck. It's a precursor to using Mardel's cashmere. I need to perfect things first.
Gonna use the denim to make another pair of Clovers that, hopefully, fit a bit snugger. I might even try to use the pink petersham to make the waist facing, if I can figure it out.
The grey will be for a T shirt for Scott, using the bespoke pattern I made him for his birthday.

I'm not in a rush. I have the whole holiday season to work on these. And to tell you / show you more about them. Please stay tuned.

Variations on a Theme

2011-12-12T08:30:00.000-08:00

This is my third version of Stefanie Japel's One-Skein Shrug. Remember: You can actually participate in an awesome workshop (like a knit along) for FREE at Craftsy.com... (Note that the second version isn't up for viewing yet cuz it's a present for M. Alas, I think, by the time she opens it at Xmas, it will be on the outer edge of fitting. The child is practically my height now.)

I modified the pattern in one way - I made the sleeves longer. But, I learned something in the process which I will now share with you: The original cap sleeve (one which goes straight to ribbing for 8 rows) has a lovely proportion. However... if you add length without shaping the sleeves from the get-go, they are not snug. This would be fine if my upper arms were in need of some extra fabric but, as they are not, I feel the knit could be more fitted. I realized this 9 sleeve-lengthening rows into the process and, to ameliorate it, I started ribbing stat (and continued to do so for about 20 rows). Ribbing, people, it's not fun - esp. if you're a thrower...

Don't get me wrong - it's still a really nice shrug and I totally appreciate the cashmere content, not to mention the very practical black colour. See my Ravelry post on this for more deets...

The way it's constructed (all in one piece, top down, raglan-sleeved) means the alteration of the sleeve would be a bit challenging - not impossible, but might look odd if one were not careful. Mind you, I'm up to that challenge next time...

Sweet

2011-12-11T08:16:00.000-08:00

The Xmas gift sweet-fest continues...

Beginning:

Middle:

End:

I think these caramels (really, they turn into toffee in the blink of an eye) are candy perfection. Just a little bit salty and very buttery. And they are so lovely to look at.

However...

Man, they're an undertaking. The ingredients are simple and standard. The instructions are clear and concise. But for those who are unused to working with boiling sugar / candy thermometers and the great unknown of when soft ball starts morphing into hard ball, well, it can be a bit tense.

Then, assuming you make it through that hurdle (tip: pay attention to the thermometer readings, not your own sense that things look completely "wrong"), once it sets and it's cool, a gorgeous-looking slab in its baking dish, you have to cut it up into sweet little pieces. Lovelies, that is really hard on the hands! Takes about as long as making the caramel. Oh, and did I mention slicing up the wax paper into 4x4 inch pieces. It's more time-consuming and finicky than you would imagine. Finally, there's the actual wrapping, which would be fun if your fingers weren't already bruised from cutting the caramel pieces.

Guess this is why I don't make it every week. Cuz once you eat a piece you forget all the challenge and are transported to another time and place. It really is a labour of love.

Note: The recipe for these is online at Epicurious.

Do You Know About This?

2011-12-10T18:08:00.000-08:00

The Ruby Slip Sew Along is the newest fun, community sewing project but, to start it on Monday will likely be a bit challenging. I mean, I am doing 8 zillion other things, like, constantly these days.

The great news is that you, and I, will be able to join whenever it suits us, so just have a look and get psyched.

From my perspective, I wonder if - and truly hope that - all of my (somewhat unsuccessful) bra patterning will assist me in getting the bust section to work for my unique shape. Sherry cut this for a B cup, which I am clearly not.

I also hope that I've got enough lingerie supplies stashed that I won't have to go out and source anything.

So, are you joining? I want to know!

Gifted

2011-12-08T15:52:00.000-08:00

I just received the most awesome gift.

(I will post a photo, but in the interests of telling you about it right this minute, you'll have to imagine it...)

Mardel - she of impeccable taste fame - has sent me a yard (though it seems like more) of reversible cashmere knit fabric - slate grey on one side, fuchsia on the other. Imagine a sweater you might spend a zillion dollars on at Neiman Marcus. It could be made out of this knit. It's probably the nicest fabric I've had the pleasure to own.

Now I just need to find a) the perfect pattern and b) the courage to cut into it.

This post is a kind of preamble to a great giveaway I'm going to tell you about very soon. All I can say is that it has something to do with Mardel and something to do with an item you will want to own.

PS: Can anyone tell me where to find very high-end knit fabrics that can be purchased online? Preferably ones that won't cost 50 bucks in shipping alone...

Production Values

2011-12-05T15:21:00.000-08:00

I had an absurdly productive weekend.

I really don't know how it happened. I mean, on Friday I was a puddle of goo after a fairly rigorous work day.

But there I was on Saturday, food shopping and putting up the tree (with M), wrapping all of my homemade gifts, making some homemade gifts and going to a party. Sunday came and I was experimenting with pasta recipes, sewing and (what a surprise) knitting again.

Note the revised strategy: I'm only knitting for me from here on in. At least for the foreseeable future. Oh, and I have no time frames associated with the completion of garments for me. After all, I'm going to be here when all is said and done.

At one point I got mad at Scott for eating a ripe pear on the basis that I was going to use it to make a crumble. That's when I realized I need to get a grip. I mean, I'm not exactly running a lifestyle empire.

At any rate, here's the quick win top I made (V8323):

Some thoughts:

I'm really glad I've used up the bulk of this fabric, cuz it's kind of nice but mainly icky. I don't know that it will stand the test of laundry. In which case it's a nice wearable muslin.
On that topic, oh man, my seam finishing is horrendous. Gotta work on that. (Let's blame it on the fabric.)
It's quite a clear and easy pattern (much as the name suggests). I made view A, though I added 3/4 sleeves, cut a straight 12 (used the "petite" shortening lines) and it fits pretty well.
Did I mention that serging princess seams is a crap shoot?
Nonetheless, I really like princess seams. I didn't like their line till I started sewing.
Not sure about the funnel neck. I may alter it the next time.
Also, I'll need to do some work on the sleeves. I used the ones meant for view B and they were too wide.

My final thought on the matter is SO liberating: Sewing doesn't have to be a total mathematical experience. (This premise helps when what you're sewing is a knit.) I cut an inch off the seam of the sleeves after basting them into the armscye. Yes, I know it would have been better to ease the sleeve cap in - I only just considered that this is probably what the pattern advised me to do - but things worked just the same. Is this my best work ever? Clearly not. Is it the best pattern ever? Not so much. But does this thing have some potential? I think it does.

Thoughts?

Lifecycle of a Homemade Gift

2011-12-03T11:25:00.001-08:00

Beginning:

Middle:

End:

This is the culmination of years of baking, a tried-and-true recipe, online ordering skills and a few labels.

I figured out that each batch makes enough cookies to put 14 (in the circle size I've chosen) into 3 bags. Good info.

The great thing about the dough is that it lasts for a week in the fridge so I made a second batch of it to use when I have some more time in the next few days (she says, hopefully). The cookie-baking part is pretty straight forward: roll, cut, refrigerate, bake and cool, then wrap. It's the dough-preparation that really adds an extra layer of complexity I'm not prepared to deal with on a weekday night.

The amount of planning and labour involved is not negligible but these cookies are insanely delish buttery/sandy/crumbly. (They are not pasty, wan shortbread.) Total cost for each gift: about 5 bucks. So, if you want to save some money but still show your love (and skillz), this is the project for you!

So, whatcha think?? Next up: caramel.

Update on posting recipe: Hey peeps, I'd LOVE to post the recipe but I cannot find it online anywhere and I don't want to infringe on copyright. Thing is, Michel Roux (the guy whose recipe I use) wrote this gorgeous book, in which you will find, not only this recipe, but so many others that will improve your life. I totally recommend it. You can find other sable recipes online but, I've noted, the ratios of butter to flour are not the same in those as in this one. What I can say is that it takes only 4 ingredients: butter (so much of this), flour, confectioner's sugar (not regular sugar!) and egg yolk.

Eclectic Perfection

2011-12-03T06:29:00.000-08:00

Photo courtesy of Not Dressed as Lamb

This outfit blows my mind.

Challenge / Goal

2011-12-01T16:38:00.001-08:00

Compelling personal projects notwithstanding, I'm officially on knitting hiatus. Not cuz I'm sick of it (strangely), but because my hands/wrists/arms/shoulders/neck need a rest. It's ok. I've largely finished the holiday gifts on my list. And baking awaits, donchaknow.

Having said this, the urge to sew gets a little stronger every day. How I miss the solitude of my sewga room, the hum of my machines.

Now's a good time to remind us all that I don't need anything. My desire to sew something is based entirely on my enjoyment of the craft and pretty new things. My intention is to make the next garment construction a stash-busting exercise, but I'm finding my fabrics on hand to be somewhat at odds with the patterns I'd like to sew (they being quick wins as we like to say in my industry). Hmmm...

The fabrics that call to me - either because of yardage or loveliness (or both) - are:

This amazing Versace that Mardel gave me. Everytime I look at it, I like it more.
The remainder of this orange 4-way stretch jersey.
A bizarre, on balance, crappy beige 4-way stretch fabric that has a strange, vaguely fleece-like quality (only the "good side" is the fluffy side and the nap is more rich-seeming than that of a sweatshirt). This is one of the first fabrics I ever bought, and I still haven't figured out what to make with it.
The top (slate) fabric, with beautiful drape, pictured here.

The patterns that appeal to me - either because they're "simple" or practical - are:

Knit top V8323
Knit, cowl dress V8413
Next go 'round of the Clover pants
This Hot Pattern skirt that threw me for a loop (re: waist facing) 2 yrs ago. It's the only pattern I started and then put away. After making a muslin.
I could also make the ubiquitous Kwik Sew yoga pants - lord knows, my current crop of lounge pants is regrettably sad. But this isn't exactly interesting work.

So, I put it out there for feedback. Do you have any suggestions?

For what it's worth, I have realized a few things over the past couple of days of sewing reconsideration:

I really like sewing and wearing Colette and Sewaholic patterns. Too bad I can't make another Sencha or Pendrell. Alas, I have a glut of them - though I do wear them all the time.
I'm so glad the Colette gift set is still available today. I bought the book (with 2 free patterns), recognizing that I need a) a new, staple skirt (the Ginger) and b) a good slip pattern (the Cinnamon). See, I really feel like making a slip this weekend, but I don't have a pattern on hand.
I'm much happier with my cache of knitting patterns than sewing patterns. I really have to find "the angle" when it comes to most of my sewing patterns. I wonder why that is...

FYI

2011-11-29T15:58:00.000-08:00

I really want to sew something. Something easy, that can be made in a weekend, that will look great.

Lord knows, I have enough patterns, enough fabric. I just need to find the time which, given the push to finish knitting, isn't there right now.

What would you sew (or are actually sewing??), if you could make anything, right now? Tell me! Maybe I'll want to sew it too. Maybe I'll try to find some way to fit in that project before Xmas.

I never thought I'd look forward to cutting fabric, but there you go.

Pick or Throw?

2011-11-26T14:43:00.001-08:00

In my endless quest to knit better - which is to say more efficiently and more ergonomically and (ahem) more quickly - I've begun to look into different methodologies.

Those of you who don't knit might be bored out of your mind to learn that there are 2 predominant schools: picking (aka Continental or German or Left-Handed) and throwing (English aka British or Right-Handed).

Apparently, English knitting is the more popular North American style. Continental is the style most Europeans use (except some British, who learned from those who were quite political about using the English method, particularly during the War).

I learned the English method as a teenager, when I practiced the art for all of 3 weeks, and promptly forgot everything. When I began knitting again in April of this year, I automatically reverted to this method which, intriguingly, came back to me very quickly. I find my tension even and I am rather fast. Note: I'm a proficient typist and the kind of dextrous, obsessive compulsive sort who grooves easily with the handwork of knitting. I also get a shitload of practice.

As you know, this fall I've undertaken a stupid goal - the knitting or baking of all my Xmas items (or purchase of the odd few on Etsy). Mainly, I'm knitting, which means I spend every moment that's not earmarked for work or sleep doing some sort of project.

My back hurts. It's tight as a body-builder's and the tension is squeezing up into my neck and head. I am often in a lot of pain lately. I mean, I'm no stranger to headaches (which are the result of muscular tension), but this is out of control. I've actually done relatively little knitting this week because I just can't manage the pain I'm already in - never mind whether or not the knitting is actually contributing to the problem. I have to assume it is.

Note: I do yoga to assist me in staying limber and to undercut the pain, but it's barely scratching the surface at this point.

Long story short, I don't imagine I will be knitting in this volume again. But what to do about the 3 gift projects I've got left (and my own work, going forward)? It occurred to me I should learn Continental style.

Apparently Continental knitting is more ergonomic, more efficient (because it requires less broad movement), easier for lefties and the method that the fastest of all knitters use (except for wacky-ass Cottage knitting - scroll down to see the awesome video in Mardel's post).

I've spent the day learning and, so far, I have to say it's not so fabulous. No knitting is more left- than right-handed IMO, because knitting requires both hands and both sides of the brain. I'm an ambidextrous leftie - I do almost everything other than write, predominantly right-handedly - so maybe it's not surprising that "right-handed" knitting is easier for me. Of course, maybe it's just what I'm used to. Intriguingly, it's the left side of my back that's really struggling. And when one knits English-style, it's the right side that really gets the workout by "throwing" they yarn over the right needle in the action of creating the stitch. I should mention, there's a lot of fluidity to the action when you get into the groove. It's not all willy-nilly, as the term implies.

Today I also learned from Katy that one can knit English-style without actually throwing the yarn. I'm intrigued to learn more about this. Is it known as "lever-style" (something I found while digging around on the net for a few minutes earlier today)? Can anyone point me in the direction of a video that shows this style?

But enough about me. Whatch'all do when you knit? English? Continental? Some other fringe method I've never heard of? Any thoughts or feelings about pain when knitting? About the type of tension or speed you achieve when doing one method over another? Please share!

All Consuming

2011-11-25T06:33:00.001-08:00

Check out this very thoughtful and articulate post on the nature and impact of first-world consumption, told from the very personal perspective of Zoe. I particularly appreciate her discussion of "new is a new concept".

This post really is worth reading.

Foot Hold

2011-11-24T15:44:00.000-08:00

One year ago today, I broke my foot. Weary-brain-convinced that I was on the first rise, I turned around on my staircase and stepped down. In fact, I was on the fourth of 13 stairs, 19th-century steep. I landed in a seated position on my foyer floor. My left foot was twisted under the right side of my derriere. My body was entirely unprepared. I had no time to use my hands to break the fall (probably just as well, might have broken an arm.) It was sickeningly painful.

I freaked out. I was afraid to move or be touched. As I screamed at Scott to stay away (he was trying to help) while my kid chimed in to "leave Mummy alone. Don't touch her!", the common wall neighbours were obviously perplexed. (I learned this a couple of days later when I met them on the porch...)

The next day my (very kind) manager came to take me to the hospital. Stupidly, I'd waited out the whole night at home as Scott had convinced me I was over-reacting. By the time the doctors saw my foot, it - and my ankle - had swollen to 3 times its normal size. They took xrays and ultrasound and told me I had a particularly bad sprain. They gave me crutches and a prescription for a boot cast. When things were practically as ugly a week later, my family doctor had a look and freaked out. She was convinced it was broken and sent me to a clinic to be retested. Those tests revealed a minor break, in addition to the torn ligaments and tendons the hospital doctor had already diagnosed.

I spent 3 weeks at home thinking constantly about, and documenting, ways to ameliorate the healing process. I did 90 minutes of non-weight bearing yoga per day. I lay with my legs elevated (often right up the wall) for hours. I took supplements to diminish inflammation, used analgesic creams, had physiotherapy three times a week for 3 months. I had a lot of time to think.

Before I broke my foot, I imagined I'd go crazy if I couldn't walk, as per usual, an hour plus per day. I did not imagine how hard it would be to get up and down the stairs on my ass or the complexity involved in making food on one limb. I did not imagine the near impossibility of taking a shower. I couldn't imagine that I'd have ongoing foot pain for 8 months (though totally bearable, rather unpleasant) or that my brain would be really fuzzy for a good 6 weeks.

But I'm here to say that I did not go crazy (at least not over relative immobility). I did become a proficient online shopper. (If only I'd known how to knit!)

The great thing about Thanksgiving is that you don't have to cebrate the holiday in order to celebrate the concept.

So, here's a list of the things (in no particular order) I continue to be grateful for, when I remember this time last year:

That my workplace was incredibly accommodating and facilitated my ability to work at home.
That my manager took me to the emergency room.
That I didn't break something more serious.
That I managed to find zen, in my own small way, in being unable to walk normally for a few weeks.
That I had a great house in which to convalesce.
That I healed incredibly quickly, in the scheme of things (according to doctors and my physiotherapist)
That it didn't happen in January, which would have required me to negotiate everything in snow and ice.
That my husband and kid were supportive (and very helpful with the logistics).
That I had Xmas to look forward to.
That I live in a place with universal health care.
That I have good benefits.
That I could afford the deductibles and supplemental care without stress.
That I know how to use yoga therapeutically.
That I was also able to use it to maintain my sanity and to give me activity and pain relief.
That I have many friends, including those in my online community, who provided ongoing support.
That the injury gave me perspective in a fairly benign way.

Zig Zag

2011-11-23T13:20:00.000-08:00

Here's the latest Xmas gift finished:

Rambler's Scarf by Elizabeth Sullivan

Actually, it just occurred to me that this is the third from latest gift. A shrug and tea cosy followed it. And now I'm back to making another one of these scarves in a different yarn and colour...

But isn't it pretty? Plus, it's easy, though I did alter the pattern by increasing the width by about an inch (4 stitches) and neglected to adjust one element of one row in every 8. Just slightly. Don't tell.

OK, crafters (and apologies to the non-crafters - I have to finish the 20 gifts I've committed to by next week(ish) before I'll have much energy to speak about other topics. Don't worry, though, I've got a few lined up...):

Do you think making rectangular scarves is ultra-boring? I mean, I know they're lovely and everyone needs a great rectangular scarf, but man, the repetition!
How far along are you on completing your knitting or sewing gifts?
Are you starting to resent everyone cuz they're about to get some seriously stylish and useful objets, while your 18 projects languish in the corner?

After the knitting, I start the baking. I've decided to make, as my core gifts, sable (see this ye olde post for a summer presentation of the shortbread) and fleur de sel caramels. I just ordered, and received, the most adorable packaging! I don't know that I'll order wrapping online again - the experience had its drawbacks, though client service wasn't one of them. I think there must be a great packaging place in downtown TO that can sell me the same calibre of item at a lower cost.

At any rate, I'm going to put the cookies in perfect gift-sized windowed cookie bags and the caramels in these little velcro-sealed boxes.

An Autumn Tableau

2011-11-20T06:39:00.000-08:00

I was totally transported by this photograph:

Photo courtesy of Desire to Inspire

What is it about sunlight through a denuded forest? Or that table? Or the adorable cake tray and lid? Don't you want to have a snack and a glass of wine looking at that scenery?

Check out the rest of the post. I don't actually love the majority of the interior design (I find it cold), but what a gorgeous home.

High on Drugs

2011-11-16T15:40:00.000-08:00

Honestly, at this point, I have a habit. If I were to photograph the array of knitting goods receipts I've racked up in the last month, you would be horrified. I spend so much time at the freakin' yarn stores, it's a miracle I have time to knit. And, btw, I desperately need to knit. Like, every second of the day.

But never mind the 8 zillion gifts I'm going to make (4 zillion of them are done!), there are so many things I want to knit for me. I just found a shawl pattern that wasn't online for purchase anywhere (I saw a photo of it on Ravelry). I ended up sourcing it at an LYS in Michigan. They're mailing it.

And don't think I've forgotten about sewing. I totally want to sew - but there's just no time right now! Furthermore, I absolutely don't need anything new - nada on the shirts, pants, dresses and skirts. How can I justify making another garment. Where will I put it?

What can I say? These are the problems to have.

A couple of other things...

I've decided to buy all of my wrapping supplies online this year - from a small business in Niagara-on-the-Lake. I'm sick and tired of shopping for them (I do recycle a lot of wrapping, but not that for gifts I give to friends). I found a place and I'm about to put in an order. Can't wait to see how this works. It means I'm going to have some super wraps for my baked goods.

I really am trying to make as many items as I can this year. I'm sick of inconsiderate consumption. I would love to receive any of the things I intend to give. So that's this year's plan.

And, a propos of that, here's a couple of shots of my latest gifts:

See my Ravelry projects page for more info about the good, bad and the ugly...

So tell me: How are you going to give this season? Is it homemade all the way? Business as usual? Total austerity? Do tell.

Clip Trip

2011-11-13T06:48:00.000-08:00

The inimitable Patty wrote a great post today that reminds me of this one I wrote back in 2009. You know, I just wore my Cashin sweater this week. It's not something that sees a ton of action, but it makes semi-regular occurrences. I love it tremendously with every wear. That's intelligent fashion.

Moss Stitch

2011-11-11T05:57:00.000-08:00

Gaptastic Cowl by Jen Geigley

Check out the knitting deets about this on my Ravelry page...

This is just a quick break between knitting stints to show you the latest Xmas item I've created. I chose the pattern based on Tasia's recommendation. I did modify the size based on the recipient and the need to conserve yarn, but I don't think it has impinged on its loveliness.

This yarn was kindly gifted to me by a work colleague who bought it to knit up a sweater and then developed wrist unhappiness. I am blown away by her generosity (700 yards!) - and by the baby alpaca fabulousness. I likely would not have purchased chunky weight wool. As you know, it's not my preferred gauge. But now I've learned that great projects come in all needle sizes.

This is SO My Style...

2011-11-10T15:52:00.001-08:00

Photo of Public Chicago, courtesy of Remodelista. Click on the link and check out all the pics. You will not regret it.

Y'all know I love me some good design - pared down (veering toward modern, but never cold) - and I love me some hotels.

I really want to try this place out... And, go figure, it's in the realm of affordable.

In Which I Remind You That You Can't Judge A Bra By Its Size

2011-11-09T14:59:00.000-08:00

Fascinating occurrence here: I just got another parcel (that's 2 in one week, in case you're counting) from Figleaves UK. I've spoken about this online experience numerous times (just use the search and see). You know how up I am with the Figleaves experience.

This time I was shopping for basics - specifically beige bras to wear under all kinds of tops requiring, well, beige bras. I didn't want too lacy, too bumpy - observable.

The ones I purchased are the Triumph Doreen - see the links for my previous posts on this bra. I have strong feelings about it. And since I've owned the black version for about a year, I'll offer up my latest perspective: It's MEGA retro. I don't mean "modern nod to vintage". I mean, hands down, exactly like they designed it 60 plus years ago. From hardware to fit.

I will say it fits large. Go down a size at least. (Unfortunately no one seems to stock it in a back size smaller than a 34 - but it's not a stretch-er. A 34 on the second hook will serve you well if your back is a 32.) If your size is, say, a 32F, I'd suggest buying a 34D. Remember, for each back size you increase, you should decrease the cup size. In this case I'm advocating, depending on a few factors, going down one additional cup size.

I'll also say, it's much chicer, IMO, in "poudre" i.e. beige than in black. But, even given that I bought it one size down, next time I'll buy it an still another cup size smaller.

The fit is seriously high and pointy. Lord, I love that silhouette. I don't care if you tend towards "modern" or vintage - that's a great shape, IMO.

The second bra I purchased is the Panache Melody. It's a balconette that veers towards (but doesn't descend into) a demi. This one, I chose in my "regular size" and, while it fits, it is definitely smaller in the cup than the "smaller" Doreen bra. It gives a nice, smooth (despite a bit of lace), round shape. Very practical, but lovely. What I appreciate about this design is that it's high on the sides but delicate from the front. This improves the supportiveness without sacrificing the look. But ain't no way this thing compares to the Doreen in terms of support. The Doreen is a freakin' tank.

I bought both of these bras sight unseen. Yes, that's risky, but I did have some understanding of how the Doreen fits. Panache bras seem to be all over the map in terms of sizing so I went with the size that usually works on me, and it did. I was prepared to return them. I'm happy I won't have to. In truth, I've tried on so many bras that I have experience and intuition on my side. The only way you can gain those, is by trying again and again (though not nec. online, if complex returns don't appeal).

So, let's get to the interactive part of this post:

Thoughts about the pointy silhouette? I don't think it's universally flattering - I mean, it takes all kinds, but it is one I love. What do you think? (Note: Gertie wrote a good post on this recently...)
Have you worn either of these styles of bra? If yes, tell us more.
Do you buy your bras online? Do you return as many as you keep?

Let's chat!

Pins and Needles

2011-11-07T15:09:00.000-08:00

The title of this post is utterly apropos given that I've waited more than 3 weeks for Canada Post to deliver my tiny (but lovely) sweater clasp. It came from the eastern seaboard, people. As the seller wryly observed, I could have walked there to pick it up by now. You know, I loathe paying big time shipping costs to have things couriered, but the way our postal system is going, I can see the allure. My parcel got held up at Customs?!? It was entirely properly labeled. It is what it purported to be. I wonder what Customs was doing with it for 2 plus weeks as I waited with bated breath...

Let me say that my love of Etsy persists. Pink Rhino Vintage is a terrific shop. I can't say enough for good client service. Despite the lag in delivery time, I would happily purchase from this vendor again.

But onto the pics of the Split Neckline Cap Sleeve Tee, yes?

You may recall that I made substantive changes to the original pattern. Just have a look at my Ravelry page for deets. You may also recall that the yarn turned into mush when I blocked it - a truly unpleasant experience.

It did return to its original dimensions, largely, after 30 minutes in the dryer, but it's not quite as tight (let's not mince words) as I'd like it to be. Nonetheless, I think the sweater pin gives it some ballast. I'm going to try to get with this thing.

Whatcha think?

It's That Time of Year

2011-11-06T10:04:00.000-08:00

If it's the beginning of November, I must be getting ready to give you all kinds of advice on how to get with the Season. I have my more festive years, and my less festive years, but I can always relate to good gifts. (Spoiler Alert: If you are one of my peeps, and you like surprises, don't read on...)

As it happens, I somehow managed to commit myself to the construction of 15 knitted Xmas items. Some of them are done (6 things) but, by the math, I figure if I knit my fingers to the bone every minute between now and Dec. 20, everything should be perfect! Nothing like setting practically unreasonable goals and calling them learning opportunities.

In truth, as I work, I happily imagine all of the stunned impress-edness of my giftees as they stare at their new special thing. (Regrettably, I just read an old post on Yarn Harlot's blog in which she mentions that her sister - whom she knit for incessantly - doesn't actually like the quality of hand knit items. And I can sort of understand that. I don't like nubby, floppy, open weave, hairy yarn things. I just hope everyone loves the kind of handmade I do! And, while we're talking about this, can you imagine having the world's most famous knitter as your sister and not being blown away by her presents?? Just goes to show...)

I'm chronicling the fabulous journey on Ravelry but, in case you don't hang there, here are a few pics to set the scene:

Vancouver Fog - Long Version

Vancouver Fog - Short Version (There's a medium length but I haven't made it. Short version is great because it doesn't take up too much yarn... Seems that when I don't have enough to make the long version, I only have enough to make the short one.)

You'll note that the cable on each grey glove is exactly mirror-image. I forgot to do that on the shorter ones. I don't think it makes a tremendous difference, but the asymmetry bothers me.

And here's the beginnings of a scarf with an interesting repeat (K1, bring yarn to front, slip stitch purlwise, K3). Note, I mean the result is interesting - not the actual knitting:

Yes, I am using my overage of the questionable Debbie Bliss Rialto DK. Since I've learned that it can be washed and heat dried, and since scarves don't have to fit like sexy sweaters, I think it's a good bet. What I like about wash and dry yarn is that the recipient doesn't need to worry about going to extra measures when cleaning.

So, are any of you hand making gifts this year? What kind? Even if you don't give them, how do you feel about homemade gifts? Be honest!

Everything's Coming Up Crumble

2011-11-05T13:16:00.000-07:00

The irony's not lost on me that, no sooner do I post about body change borne of moderation, I am compelled to bake.

I just had to use up some gorgeous, peaking pears sitting in a bowl on my counter top. Sure, I could have sliced them into a salad but seriously, is that as fun as making pear pistachio crumble?!

I haven't capitalized the recipe name because it's not technically a recipe. It's the outcome of my style of cooking: great ingredients, good materials, a modicum of experience and a pragmatic nature.

To wit:

Here they are, pre-baking... So horrified to show you the world's most beat up cookie sheet. But it still works, so what's an environmentally friendly cook to do?

These tarts are simple. I had 3 pears (each one got its own tart ramekin), sliced them, added some citrus, vanilla extract, a smidge of corn starch (these things are wet!) and coated them with a crumble made of 60 g (ish) of butter, equal parts pistachio, flour and brown sugar (1/2 cup of each in this case). Man, I am so schizo when it comes to units of measurement... Then I put them in a medium hot oven (350 degrees) for 30 minutes. They're baking as I write, so they may need a bit more time.

I don't think we spend enough time - maybe I should just speak for myself? - reveling in beautiful things. The smell of vanilla, butter and pear on a bright November day is a gift. That I can see it, smell it, taste it...That I can create and share it... That I can afford the food and heat to make it... That I will enjoy this after a dinner of beef tenderloin, rice and roasted veggies... Wow. My life is awesome.

Yum:

Worth Its Weight / Wait

2011-11-04T20:30:00.000-07:00

Remember the recalibration? It's been a while since I've spoken about it but I did some recon this morning and things are ticking along.

It so happens that my preferred method of assessment is the measuring tape. Let's extol its virtues for a moment, yes? It can fit in the smallest of purses (not that you're carrying it around, necessarily, but you can't say the same of a scale). It costs a dollar - so why not own 10? It comes with two systems of measurement - you can feel free to be metric or whatever the non-metric system is called. But best of all, it actually gives you the information you require to determine why your wardrobe is now fitting or not fitting and/or what size of clothing you should be looking at next time you make or buy something. The scale ain't gonna do that.

I heartily recommend that everyone check her measurements prior to a shopping spree - just to get a sense about whether she's going to be looking at one general size range or another. Even though RTW sizing is all over the map, the tape tells you about you - relative to the last time you checked. That's useful. Having said that, I'm the woman who customizes her dress forms to her own personal measurements. Perhaps mine isn't the median perspective.

When your body changes shape, for the myriad reasons and in the myriad ways in which it does, the transition does not always occur where you imagine it will (or should). Just ask those who lose a lot of weight while still it clings to one long-standing spot. Or the women in perimenopause who gain mass in the midsection- even if that has never been the tendency. It's useless to know, for example, that your weight hasn't changed in 10 years, if every time you go to put on a certain garment, it won't close. Measuring tapes can give you more information than a scale ever will.

Which brings me to my point: The measuring tape only cares to tell you about how things will fit. It's not prejudicial. It doesn't fuck with your mind by going up and down and sideways 5 lbs on a whim. To what, exactly, does your weight correlate? (Let's not veer into discussion about diabetes or heart disease - this isn't a post about physical health.)

Intriguingly, though, even when one uses a measuring tape to advise about the specifics of body proportions, it doesn't necessarily tell the full tale. My 5-second, angst-free measuring tape moment this morning told me that my bust, waist and hip measurements have each decreased by 1 inch since the beginning of September.* (BTW - I had a similarly unemotional moment 2 months ago when I learned my measurements had increased over the summer. It's not like my clothes and photos didn't tell me the same thing...) But let's consider this for a moment.

I can tell you that my bras are fitting differently. As you may know, I have a selection of bras in slightly different back and cup sizes to address previous fluctuations. The ones with the smallest back measurements were off limits for a while, until recently. Happily, I have equally nice lingerie in the next back size up. (Why should I be punished for my body's propensity to fluctuate??) The fact is, my bust measurement has changed largely because my back has lost fat. It hasn't toned (I don't see how it could have - unless knitting counts as conditioning!). My breasts have not shrunk. They are a smidge smaller in the upper cup perhaps, but not notably.

Turning attention to my hip measurement: At least to date, my body doesn't store fat at the high or low hip. How can I have lost mass here?? Simple: I've lost it in the (captured by the equation) derriere.

The one measurement I take at face value is waist circumference. As a person of Italian and Hispanic heritage who tends to gain in the midsection, when I lose mass here, it means I've lost weight. But never mind that - what it really means is I can fit into more clothing I already own.

The point is that my recalibration exercise has yielded the desired result. I wonder if, in another 2 months, I might be down another inch in each of these spots - cuz then I'll be back into the full range of smaller garments in my closet.

You'll note this transition has not been quick but it has been steady. It has not shocked my body. It has not forced me into the domain of extremism. Were I to guess, I'd say I've lost 6 lbs but, seriously, what do I know? I haven't stepped on a scale in a year. Point is, 6 lbs would signify a loss of only slightly more than half a pound a week - well below the 1.5 - 2 lbs "they" say is healthfully feasible and optimal. And still, it works for me because a) I feel better b) I look better in clothing IMO and c) my aim was to lose inches, not weight.

Some of you mentioned you might do a version of recalibration when last we discussed this. Has that occurred? If yes, how's it going for you?

*I should also add, I could easily record many additional measurements, were I so inclined. Upper leg comes to mind, since it's such a challenging spot for many re: fitting. Upper arm and ribcage measurements are very useful for those who are about to embark on a formal-wear adventure.

The Sweater Tee Update

2011-11-02T16:06:00.000-07:00

In full disclosure, there are no photos of the SNCS Tee yet cuz the freakin' sweater pin still has not arrived. I'm almost about to get worried. But not quite.

This post is to tell you a bit more about the pattern - what I did right, what I could have done better...

Overview

I decided to make the XS (thank God cuz this thing fits very large by everyone's estimation). I don't understand how all of the measurements from the schematic matched up mathematically in accordance with gauge - and still the overall outcome is large. Note: I was knitting slightly tighter than the gauge, so that outcome is even less comprehensible. All I can say is that most people on Ravelry note the same concern. So beware...
I used Debbie Bliss Rialto DK - which goes insanely limp as soon as it hits water. It's totally disturbing. Add that to the large fit factor (see above) and this XS fits, well, suboptimally.
Given that, in accordance with the schematic, the XS was supposed to be 34" in the bust (as opposed to my 37"), I decided - after much debate and recognizing that I basically had no choice - to sew horizontal bust darts using short rows.
While the link (above) shows you how to do the wraps and turns that comprise short rows, they don't tell you how to determine the number or placement of short rows within a garment. That's a big-time process that took me a few hours with a calculator and I could not have done it without the bonus tutorial in this Craftsy course. Seriously, if you have large boobs and you knit, you need to take this class.
It's well worth it to learn the method for inserting horizontal bust darts (an additive process in knitting, rather than the reductive process that sewn darting employs). Even though you'll need to figure out the specifics for each pattern, the premise is the same - as are the baseline calculations. I'm choosing to believe that it's hard the first time, and progressively easy thereafter.

The Good

I am super proud of myself for taking the time to figure out all of the convoluted details involved in creating the short rows. They worked well: They look good and the depth of the darts is just right.
I also shortened the sweater from the bust to waist and waist to hip - and increased or decreased the stitch count to create curves that match my own. Really, I redesigned this pattern and it worked!
The yarn knit very nicely - relatively little splitting (though it is known for splitting) and excellent stitch definition.
I determined how to make the trim a bit slimmer and to ensure that the facing (the inner hem) wasn't too long. See my Ravelry post for more technical deets.
I think that the camel/black colour scheme is rather chic.
I found the perfect sweater clasp and, if it ever arrives, I'm sure it's going to work well at the neck...

The Bad

The yarn did not respond as planned to the wet blocking. I suppose I should have blocked my swatch. Live and learn. Now I have to decide if I ever intend to use this yarn again. Or, if I do, how I'll make future garments adequately small to accommodate the yarn-grow.
When knitting the yoke (the top part of this top-down garment) I artificially altered my tension to get gauge. (My natural tension was slightly tighter than it should have been.) This totally screwed with the fabric and created unnecessary lumps and bumps (which, thankfully, largely blocked out). As soon as I realized this, I stopped trying to work my will on the fabric. They tell you not to try to change your gauge -and now I know why...
Never mind how things grew in the blocking, the pattern is dowdily large-fitting. I made the smallest size and it was still large. I don't know that I'd recommend it - even though the model looks great...
The yarn - which I did love till I blocked it - and which looks great even after being heat dried (size notwithstanding) - does seem to show the transition from skein to skein. This is despite taking special care when aiming to weave in the ends seamlessly. Not a selling feature.

So, have any of you worked with Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (or any of the other weights of this brand)? If yes, what was your experience of the yarn? Has anyone made this pattern with similar results? Have you short rowed to insert horizontal bust darts? How did it go? Let's chat...

Bright Idea

2011-10-31T17:46:00.001-07:00

This is the kid's Halloween costume - quite a production, let me tell you...

And here's the rig:

What you can't see is the metal construct (coat hangers, reshaped) that supports the glow sticks. The faux tungsten filament was sewn on in numerous spots, very messily. And those jeans are actually a shade of gold!

You have to trust me, it was quite something on the trick or treat circuit.

Foggy

2011-10-29T09:05:00.000-07:00

In case you've been losing sleep over my previous post (Lord knows, I have), the sweater has definitely shrunk back in the direction of its original proportions. The question remains: Is it bigger than it was before I blocked it (cuz the size was perfect, esp. given the short row horizontal bust darts I finagled)? In truth, I'm afraid of the answer so I'm telling myself it's still not dry. I suspect my nerve will return when it's irrefutable that the sweater is no longer damp i.e. tomorrow or 70 hours after it first got wet.

I am definitely less traumatized than I was yesterday. After all, it's just a sweater, in the end. It took me 8 days to knit it and I learned a lot. Worst case scenario: Another Xmas present off the list.

The clasp still has not arrived so I can't really assemble it for a photo. I will, likely tomorrow, give you a blow-by-blow of what I did well, and what I could have done better. I know, you can't handle the excitement :-)

Yesterday evening I started knitting some fingerless gloves to go with my keyhole scarves. The pattern is Vancouver Fog by Jen Balfour:

That's a little preview of the lovely cable. The pattern is written for double-pointed needles, but I don't have them (nor have I used them), so I am using magic loop. It makes it a little bit less intuitive - and, seriously, this cabling is quite a bit harder than that which I worked flat in my keyhole scarves. I've never made a glove / gusset / thumb finger (really small diameter knitting) so it's all a bit experimental. I'm hoping it's going to work well though.

I've chosen a couple of other fingerless glove patterns that take a skein of yarn - so that I can use up some of the extra balls I couldn't return for one reason or another.

Anyone knit this pattern? What do you think?

Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Blocking Insanity Eeeek. Need Reassurance.

2011-10-27T18:05:00.001-07:00

OMG - after having just finished a fairly excellent sweater with Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (a fairly excellent merino/microfiber blend wool), I wet blocked it and it grew 680 times?!?!?!?!? Honestly, my extra small sweater is a freaking tunic. The small, delineated stitches have gone big and ugly.

I've lain the sweater flat and tried to mini it up to its previous size (as if).

Please tell me this thing is going to dry back to its original proportions. I didn't treat it roughly. It's not like the yarn came with instructions contraindicating washing.

I'm kind of freaking out.

Wiggle Skirt (With Photos)

2011-10-23T09:32:00.000-07:00

I have so many thoughts about my just-completed skirt (skip to the photos below if the text is of no interest...). This is the third time I've made it, but it's the first time I actually finished the waist properly. When I started sewing, I had a really tough time with facings. I didn't really know what they were, so I interpreted them to be waistbands. With really bad instructions. Ah, inexperience...

At any rate, now I understand facings - though I don't tend to like them. In this skirt they work well.

I used the rest of my Lady Gray coat navy boucle, with a certain amount of natural crosswise stretch. Seriously peeps, how many modern ladies do you know who have a peplum coat with a matching skirt! Got me thinking about the origin of sets. They're an efficient and prudent use of fabric. I'm sure the home sewists of the 50s understood that.

Furthermore, I realized - as I was working with a truly lovely fabric - that the key to constructing garments that seem expensive is to use either very thin-weight fabric, or very thick-weight fabric. The heft of this skirt is SO retro. And it is very attractive around the hips and ass.

While making this, after having muslined it a year ago, and fitting it painstakingly each step of the way when making this version (the third), I realized something about home sewing that doesn't really thrill me. See, in the final analysis, despite everything, the waist is too big in this fabric. Partly, that's because of how the stretch worked unknowably with the facings. Partly the crosswise stretch really took on a life of its own. My hips are slightly slimmer than my dressform's, and my butt has actual flexibility in its shape, so I can actually lower the high waist to sit more at the low waist and it's alright. On the form, it just looks weird (and I even pinned the back in the top shot to make it seem more fitted).

My great realization? Well, if I'd found this rather nicely constructed, practical but elegant skirt in a store, I'd have tried on one size down. Maybe it would have fit, maybe not, but I'd have had that alternative. Here, I've spent hours to craft something that is really well-made (if I do say so myself), despite its flaws which I won't go into, and it doesn't fit perfectly. My only recourse - which, in real life I don't have because this fabric is long gone - would be to make the exact same skirt again, knowing what I know of the fabric ease now. That's neither practical, cost-effective nor enjoyable, as it happens. (Note: I do realize I could undo the waist facing, get rid of the lining and basically reconstruct this actual skirt, but that is NOT my thing. I can't get up any interest in doing that.)

Some Extra-Instructional Techniques:

One thing I did, and would recommend this for all skirts of heavy weight, is to open the darts and press the to each side, to diminish waist bulk. Fortunately this fabric doesn't fray, so that was fairly easy. And the lining covers the evidence.
I also shortened the lining above the back vent, and left it untacked (free), It acts like a slip.
I haven't actually hemmed this yet, but I will wear it as-is because I serged the bottom and it is totally invisible (or, when pointed out, looks like an interesting design element). I like the length - 1.5 inches below the knee - and I want to work with it for starters. If I decide to hem, it will be as easy as removing a couple of tacks from the bottom of each side of the vent (sewed in to keep the vent from flopping). Note that this length is not universally flattering but, if one is hour-glass shaped, it can elongate the frame. It tends to work with slender calves best. And boots or heels.
I used my serger extensively on this project. Y'all know I love that machine and do not begrudge for one minute having spent an exorbitant amount of money on it. It created a very neat finish.
The bemberg was in rough shape by the end of it. I stained it, I had to unpick the centre back seam and there are little holes left behind. There's a long line of damaged weave in the centre of the back. Admittedly, it was there in the beginning and I knew about it. If anyone can recommend a lining that's easier to work with, and nicer, I'd love to know. I don't really enjoy bemberg, despite hearing of all of its virtues.
In retrospect, I don't much like lining. I'd probably make this without lining the next time, and wear a slip.

Now onto the pics:

Waist is pinned at the back here (shhh...)

This photo is badly over-exposed but it does show the boucle and the line of the skirt and the unhemmed bottom. I said I wouldn't point out flaws but the zipper is not fab. The fabric really bunched on one side, despite all of my efforts to avoid that. It's in the nature of thick fabric.

The lining is gathered at the top, not darted. And is actually done evenly on both sides though this photo doesn't show that...

You can see the fabric flaw running through the lining. Somehow, I don't care.

I'm quite happy with the way the lining was stitched to the zip. I hate the look of this kind of hand stitching but it's not likely to rip off - as have some of my other experiments.

So, what do you think?

Clasping at Straws

2011-10-20T16:44:00.000-07:00

The modern era has its challenges, for example: where's a nice sweater clasp when you need one?

I wandered the city like an idiot, visiting craft establishments galore in the veritable craft centre of Canada, and I could barely find anyone who even understood what a sweater clasp is.

So, in case you were born after 1970, a sweater clasp is the thing used to hold together the keyhole in this retro-inspired sweater I just happen to be knitting:

Split Neckline Cap Sleeve Tee

Sidenote: Would it have killed Ms. Japel to name this sweater something snappier (no pun intended) than the Split Neckline Cap Sleeve Tee. It doesn't exactly roll off the tongue! Now I'm going to have to call it the SNCST (if I can even remember that).

Eventually I took to the interwebs. While I'm not really into Ebay - it freaks me out and it's ugly - I do love Etsy (the cuter, crunchier granola sister).

Even there, the pickings, for the type of clasp I was searching for, were limited. I mean, it's like no one is wearing these things. I did find a vintage boutique selling quite a lot of them (and lovely ones), but they were of this variety:

Photo courtesy of Pink Rhino Vintage

This type, while totally adorbs, does not hold the sweater pieces in question closely closed.

In fact, I searched for almost an hour before finding this one:

Photo courtesy of Pink Rhino Vintage

(The pearls are textured on purpose and the vendor has happily agreed to take them back if I'm unhappy with the condition upon receipt. The piece is very well preserved, apparently.)

I think it'll look swell on a camel coloured, short-sleeved, retro-inspired sweater with black trim.

Thoughts on this fashion statement? Does any of you actually own one of these?

Shout Out to the Experts: Inserting a Bagged Lining

2011-10-19T07:13:00.000-07:00

Sewing Divas: Can you advise - as I can't seem to find anything anywhere (in my 5 minutes of looking): Is inserting a bagged lining as simple as stitching the right side edges of the lining and the skirt at the hem cut line of each, then flipping up the lining and attaching it all at the waist?

The skirt I will make (V8640) does not have lining instructions. Last time, I made a "regular" lining by cutting the fabric pieces again in lining fabric (minus the waistband) and assembling that, wrong sides together, at the waist. I serged the lining hem at the bottom.

This time, I thought I'd branch out, but I don't want to court disaster i.e. no original pattern modified x2 = potential eeek.

To complicate matters, this skirt has a vent at the centre back. I did find Kay's awesome post on working around the vent, but I'm still nervous about the general process.

Any feedback would be so welcome and appreciated. Kxo

Wherein I Tell You I Spend Too Much Money On Crafting...

2011-10-18T15:44:00.000-07:00

I think we can say - as, for the second time this month, I've spent $179.00 on yarn - I have a habit. Verging on a problem. The only thing that redeems me is that I am actually using up all the yarn I am purchasing, before purchasing more. That is to say, I have practically no stash and I'm still spending hundreds of dollars.

Those of you who think that sewing is expensive, meet knitting.

Today I bought:

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in black. I was serious when I said I'd be making that shrug again. And I got an extra skein so I can lengthen the sleeves. You know how I like elbow-length.
A whack of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK (a lighter weight than the Aran) in camel (what a terrible name for a colour) and some black Liberty worsted neck/sleeve/hem contrast colour cuz I'm going to make this:

Split- Neckline Cap Sleeve Tee by Stefanie Japel

I really love Stefanie's patterns (and her instruction). This one is from that book I got recently, Fitted Knits. Seriously, her Craftsy course has totally reframed my understanding of pattern modification.

To wit, I spent three hours scoping out how to fit this on me, modifying the top-down pattern to reflect my sizing needs:

XS neck / arms which grade to...
...S body (plus a few stitches) to accommodate a 37" bust. I'm just going to increase them onto my circular needles when I start knitting the torso in the round. Knitters: Does that seem like it will work?
Removal of vertical length i.e. rows between bust and waist
Decrease in 32 stitches between bust and waist circumference
Removal of vertical length i.e. rows between waist and high hip
Increase of 38 stitches between waist and hip circumference

Peeps, it's a production - but I LOVE figuring out this wacky math... And I hope my lady/vintage camel/black combo will be elegant rather than boring.

At this point, I bundle all of my projects with their respective patterns, modifications and needles into self-serve ziploc bags. That way everything stays where it should.

Then there's my sewing. In keeping with my add a new skirt and use a TNT plan, I'm going to remake the high-waisted pencil, Vogue 8640, in the boucle I used to make my Lady Grey coat. With this yellow lining. Interesting, huh? I am hoping to get to that this weekend, though there are a few alternate plans coalescing.

I wish that I had the moxy to cut and sew on weekday evenings but I just don't - and I can't do it with my family around me (a priority) which knitting affords quite easily. Pls don't confuse my recent knitting emphasis with a decline in my love for sewing. I just haven't shown those wares in as much detail lately...

Shrug it Off

2011-10-16T12:14:00.000-07:00

One Skein Knit Shrug, Pattern by Stefanie Japel

No question about it, this shrug is odd. Not that I don't like it. And it is strangely warm.

It's like the tea cozy of sweaters...

At any rate, I totally recommend the pattern (or the Craftsy.com workshop from which I knit it). Craftsy workshops are a new feature in this web community known for teaching all kinds of crafts through interactive online classes. They're kind of like a cross between a blog sew along and a Craftsy-style tutorial. These workshops will cost (I'm using a prototype I was invited to try out), though not as much as the online classes. I believe the fee to join this one is $15.00 - and you can continue to refer to it forever. This fee includes the pattern and some really excellent instruction / photos, plus access to a well-organized "discussion area" wherein all users can swap info, ask questions, and receive feedback from the instructor.

The One Skein Knit Shrug is a riff on another Stefanie Japel pattern: The One Skein Wonder which, interestingly enough, I purchased a while ago, but hadn't made until now.

The Good:

Never mind the excellent workshop forum, the pattern is excellent and clearly explained. I love the raglan sleeve, constructed out of KFB. What a simple, but elegant, stitch increase.
This project is efficient: it's easy, quick and it makes use of small amounts of yarn you might have left over from other projects. To wit: I used the 3 remaining skeins of yarn from this project.
I can't say how much I love the Debbie Bliss Rialto Aran. It's got great hand. Warning: it is inclined to split around the needle.

Other Deets:

I think this would be particularly useful and flattering in black (how often do I say that??).
It would make an affordable and adorable Xmas gift.
While I made the 18" cross back size (the third largest of 8 sizes), it took about 20 yards more yarn than the pattern called for. I've read others say things to the same effect. Point is, making a sweater out of one skein of yarn is pretty dicey. My version took almost 3 skeins - each having 80m of yarn - vs. the one skein of 220 yards that the pattern recommends. Total amount converts to about 240 yards.
I didn't make a gauge swatch this time, as I'd just finished the Tubey Sweater which made use of the same needle size and stitch as this pattern. Given the size of that thing, that might have been a mistake :-) Note, the size on this is just fine.
It's a very little sweater. Like the smallest iteration of a shrug you'll find. More like a fitted scarf with armholes. But for all that, I imagine it will have a place in my wardrobe.

What do you think?

You Said You Wanted Pictures...

2011-10-13T16:04:00.001-07:00

Tubey Sweater - modified in many ways...

So, here you have it - a sweater I am proud to say I made my own, even if I don't think it works on me. Fortunately, some friend of mine is about to receive it as a love gift.

How I Modified It:

Altered sleeve length and shape - from long bell to 3/4 straight.
Added garter stitch at sleeves (cuz I hate stockinette roll)
Added garter stitch - using smaller needle size - at ridiculously low cut neckline
Was the cause of the ridiculously low cut neckline by lowering it 3/4 inch.
Made smaller the back size - this is like a slightly smaller XS...
Shortened the bottom to suit my proportions.

What Works:

I think the sleeves were a real success.
I love the yarn - which was tricky to work with, but lovely to touch and wear.
I knitted this competently, I feel, finding work arounds to problems - developing confidence in pattern modification and knitting ability.

What Doesn't Work:

The neck is just wrong for me. Even if I hadn't lowered it, it wouldn't have been right. Without the garter rib, it was a floppy mess - and that wasn't my fault. My tension was even and I worked hard to keep it tight (given that I'm a relaxed knitter). BTW, Scott laughs at the thought that I'm relaxed at anything...
The ribbing is just too stretchy. It doesn't suck anything in, leaving my abdomen at an aesthetic disadvantage.
I don't like the length. This would be easily enough fixed by adding garter to the bottom but that won't fit the stretchy rib issue. I've learned I probably don't want to do ribbing - unless it's in a very small needle size and, who are we kidding, that would be a nightmare to complete!

I only used 9 of the 12 80m balls of yarn, leaving me 3 to do a Craftsy.com knitting workshop I was invited to try out. It's a great course - like an online tutorial meets knit along. Totally worth the 15.00 price (which happily, this time, I didn't have to pay). More on the One Skein Shrug I'm knitting as it progresses.

So, what do you think??

Shout Out to the (Knitting) Experts: Wet Blocking a Complete Sweater

2011-10-11T17:01:00.000-07:00

So, I just this second finished the Tubey sweater. I have lots of thoughts and feelings about it (and photos to come) - amongst them:

Wow, this thing is really low cut - especially since I lowered the neckline by 3/4". Note: Based on measurements, I believed the neckline was going to be very high, if constructed as per the instructions. (My measurements were, apparently, erroneous.) Happily, I came up with a great work around - again - details to follow next post...; and
I don't know if I like it, but I sure don't hate it and, while knitting, I learned SO many things. Even if I never wear the thing - and with a cami I will wear it - it's been more than worth the experience.

Here's what I don't get: How does one block a complete sweater - as opposed to flat pieces - one that's been knit in the round? I guess I wash it carefully, then put it on towels and try to adjust the front and back with pins as one unit? But isn't it going to take forever to dry? Will the underside come out as well as the top side? Any feedback would be so welcome...

This is Pants

2011-10-10T15:20:00.000-07:00

This post is a rant.

It doesn't come with photos. It's not happy. It likely will not predispose you to take up sewing.

Nonetheless, when you have the kind of creative day that pushes up challenge after challenge - who are we kidding, they're legitimate problems once you have 10 of them, and each is predicated on the last - putting on a sweet face isn't really authentic.

I finished the Clover trousers and, right now, I'm not loving them. For a simple pair of pants (fitting was more or less done with this muslin), they sure did take me fucking forever. Like 16 hours.

Let's outline the issues:

I either read the pockets instructions wrong (I can't bear to look at that pattern again for a while, so I can't confirm it right now), or they're unusually inserted, leaving an (interior facing) exposed raw edge. I managed to finish and invert them to get a clean finish, but only after having to chop half of them off. (Note: I don't need the pockets so it's not a fitting problem. In fact, I don't like front facing pockets right at my stomach, even if they are discreet, so I'm likely never going to make them in these pants again.) Furthermore, don't use Bemberg lining. It frays like a bitch and the fibres stick to everything. That pissed me off all day.
I like inserting invisible zippers. Well, I like inserting them better than any other kind of closures, which means they're tolerable. But side zippers are much more finicky, apparently (this being my first ever) than back zippers. The hip curve makes them tricky to align, not to mention that they take wear differently. Given that I had to be utterly certain to get the sides to line up, it took a LONG time. 90 minutes later, I had a lovely finished product that proceeded to fall apart (at the part where the waistband unit meets the pants top) as I pulled it up. The zipper is sticky there, given the fabric bulk and join. Mercifully, the follow up zipper only took 20 minutes to insert. As I'd serged the outer seam leg of the pants (remember my last experience of that?), I had no room for error. I just decided to stop over-thinking and it went in pretty well. Also, I used tape to hold the zipper down. Why don't I do that all the time?? Basting an invisible zipper is ridiculous.
I forgot to serge the ankle hems before assembly. I don't think the pattern instructs it, and I followed the pattern exactly, to the best of my ability, which meant I had a miserable time trying to do it once everything was put together. It's pretty nasty looking.
But the piece de resistance of stupidity was when I inserted the zip on the left side (the opposite of the one stipulated in the pattern). That meant I had to invert all the instructions and rip apart already finished (according to pattern instructions) waist facing and waistband units. Note to self: Don't finish things till you've checked to see if you've mixed up left and right (a semi-regular occurrence). I was lulled into a false sense of security because the instructions are so clear and well presented. I know, I'm blaming clear instructions for my errors. How rude is that?
I don't like facing. There, I've said it. If you're even vaguely off, the facing unit and the waistband unit don't align perfectly at the already inserted zip, which makes the finishing process very challenging.
Furthermore, I think the waist finishing - while really clever and, I'm sure, beautiful if you are working with an amenable fabric, machine and a comfort level with zipper feet / aren't sewing (somewhat blind) and dangerously close to zippers that have already fucked up once - is difficult to pull off. I know the next time I try this pattern - and there will be a next time after the sew along ends (once I've had some time and a chance to see how Sarai tackles the waistband) - it will be easier as I will have seen everything twice before.
This pattern is very well conceived, explained, and is not conceptually difficult. It does take rather a lot of dexterity for a beginner pattern. But pls., peeps. I'm dextrous and I'm not a beginner!

OK, the reason I can even imagine trying this again, at this sensitive juncture, is that I am very impressed by many of its features which I've mentioned here and elsewhere. But, more to the point, I have to say I am blown away by how relatively easy it is to fit. OK, I have done a lot of pants fitting so I have some pre-existing measurements and experience at my access. But these pants are so simple, at their core, that they don't derail you from fit with other details. The fact that they're made with stretch, is fit-forgiving. They grade beautifully. And, bonus from my perspective - but potentially challenging for longer-waisted and taller women (isn't that 70% of the world's population?) - they are not long from the base of the crotch to the waist.

Sarai, in one of her posts, advises participants not to overfit. I think that's really smart advice. The pants don't need it. (Quite honestly, I think that an overfitted garment is as bad as one that hasn't been adjusted at all. And the danger of making a muslin or two, much like that of using Botox, is that sometimes we don't know when to stop.)

The other reason for trying again is that, despite everything, I have a really gorgeous finished product. The pants are totally flattering. If not slimming, and I suspect they are, they totally make the most of one's assets with their streamlined design.

Over and out.

Thanksgiving

2011-10-09T02:53:00.000-07:00

Call me shallow, if you will... I am thankful for SO many things, but few things make me as viscerally thankful as a beautiful dessert.

By the Book

2011-10-08T09:24:00.000-07:00

I'm having 9 guests for Thanksgiving dinner tonight. Scott's in charge of the capon. I'm the baker. (We don't like to mess with the holiday cooking stereotypes, as you can see...)

Yesterday I made a streusel coffee cake (the second in a week), from my stand-by recipe - which is as beautiful to look at as to eat. Vis a vis the ongoing recalibration, I do feel compelled to tell you, in brief, that I ate but one small piece of the first cake (do you know, it's a sin not to eat beautiful baked goods you make yourself?) and I intend to eat whatever I like today. It is Thanksgiving, after all.

This morning, I finally tried my hand at the flan boulanger I have referred to on a few occasions. I will serve it with a simple raspberry garnish.

The recipe is one of Michel Roux's, from Pastry: Savory and Sweet, a book which I cannot recommend enough. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned baker, this book clearly articulates the steps in making perfect pastry and it does so in lovely, spare French-style. As I've mentioned many times, the keys to making pastry are the right ingredients, the right equipment and the right frame of mind. There is no mystery - but there is alchemy.

The custard is made from a lightly boiled vanilla bean milk mixture added to a thickening mixture, which includes eggs... This one (and the purist snob in me is slightly huffy) makes use of flour and a tbsp of custard powder (essentially corn starch, sugar and colouring). I'm amazed a fancy French chef condones the use of powder, nay, instructs it! Hey, if it works...

This is the parbaked crust. You can see the initial shrinkage (see below for explanation). The reason you prick the base is to encourage even cooking. It allows steam to escape without puffing up the pastry. That, in addition to blind baking with parchment atop of which you place weight (rice, beans, stones etc.) will ensure a level end result.

And here's the finished product!

I didn't have a lot of time to let the dough rest, unfortunately, as I'm sharing the oven today. As a result, it shrank more than I'd like and looks a bit crass - despite a secondary rest period in the fridge, after rolling but before baking. I expected that; resting allows protein chains to relax, which mitigates shrinkage, and can have potential implications on the finished texture. To work around, I left extra overage at the top of the tart pan - that in addition to the overage caused by pinching the dough. You can see, it really needed it. As it is, the crust-edge is wildly uneven. Not that it's going to matter when it's beautifully plated. And if it tastes awesome, I'll feel alright.

Spell it Out

2011-10-07T11:57:00.000-07:00

In a strange turn of confluence, I read Sunni's post, inquiring about the importance of customer service on the very same day I was following up with Amy Karol (renaissance woman and Etsy proprietor) about the whereabouts of my latest web-purchase love-on: Balancing Facial Oil.

Whoa, there's a lot going on in that first paragraph...

Here's the backstory:

I love potions (as you probably know).
I love supporting small business.
I love Etsy.
I love organic stuff.
I love anything scented with rose and ylang ylang.
I love Amy Karol's blog.

Put them altogether and you get this:

So I ordered the oil, and anxiously awaited its arrival.

Three weeks later I was still waiting. (Canada Post really boggles the mind...) When I emailed Amy to follow up, I got the promptest - politest - reply a) apologizing for the delay and b) indicating that she'd send a replacement the same day. That's some awesome client service - and it further inclined me (pending product quality) to purchase a potion for all my peeps this Xmas. To extend the good will, I suggested that we wait a couple more days to see if the parcel would miraculously appear. Stranger things have happened here. And, lo, 2 days later - it arrived!

Upshot: The product is potion-y goodness. Smells terrific. Feels awesome. Helps the planet. (I'm kind of making that one up, but go with it.) Perfect Xmas size, shape and function. Woohoo!

The thing I love most about it though - and this says so much about me, I realize - is that it is incanted with an actual spell to enhance my beauty as I use it!? This potion is actually a potion!!! Only on Etsy, people...

Let me urge you to purchase one of Amy's facial oils for yourself (it's a very reasonably priced indulgence that feels/smells great and it's not full of hideous chemicals) and/or consider buying these for your friends and family over the hols. No one is paying me to say this. I'm compelled by good product and good service.

Two Yards Down

2011-10-03T15:11:00.000-07:00

Photo of Colette Patterns Clover Pants

I spent Saturday constructing my first muslin of the Colette Clover pants. Here's what I can tell you so far:

It's a gorgeous pattern to sew. Never mind the finished product, which I haven't yet completed, very few patterns have the confluence of flow, excellent instruction and intelligent construction that this one does. I cannot wait to give it another go. Seriously, how often do you hear me wax rhapsodic about fun construction?

My zenness stood me in good stead as I managed to produce a first garment that is SO not wearable - and for the most unexpected reason: Shortening the crotch depth by an inch transformed it from what (I presume) would be low/mid-rise to practically pubic. I've never encountered this problem before - I suppose there's a first time for everything.

This is sad, if only from the standpoint of the fabric I have sacrificed. You may be thinking: Well, Kristin, you knew what you were getting yourself into. Why did you use fabric you'd be sad to see wrecked? The answer: I'm eternally hopeful and wanted the potential of a great end product - which it may well have been (other adjustments notwithstanding) if I hadn't created the most non-negotiable of issues - inadequate amount of fabric to cover all the areas. Seriously, what a great blog post - and real-life story - that would have made. Furthermore, I didn't remember - till after I cut and started sewing - what awesome hand that worsted had. I like to think I'm a (torched) yard and a half closer to expertise. Isn't always painful to sacrifice fabric on some level?