Saturday, May 18, 2013

Ask The Bra Fitter: More Questions Answered!

Hey y'all - I've been super busy on all the fronts this week so I haven't had a proper chance to discuss any of the numerous things I find fascinating. (That's code for "write blog posts".) Happily, Veronica is back with another installment of awesome answers to awesome questions. Please let us know if this info is helpful!
 
Kay asks what many of us want to know: 
 
Would Veronica have a recommendation for a non-underwired bra (I don't wear bras with underwire) in a 30 band, having less outer circumference, more depth, less upper bust volume, more lower bust volume, really narrow shoulders... bust cup H-I-J (depending on the day / what I ate the previous week) with plenty of support please? 
 
Hi Kay: Non-underwire bras are really tricky. Unfortunately there is still not a lot of selection, and many styles have a narrow size range. Having said this:
  • My favourite is the Freya Dotty softcup. They make a 30H, which is on the smaller end of the size range you wear, but this bra is cut rather big in the cup (and unfortunately a bit big in the back). This bra should work for your shape, and it has great lift, separation and support. 
  • My second favourite is the infamous Triumph Doreen. This bra has amazingly firm hold and support and gives great separation. This style starts at a 34 band, but the backs are cut very firm (I wear between a 30 and a 32 band, and the 34 fits well on the second hook). A warning/bonus: the shape is rather 1950s "sweater girl".
  • Next up is Aviana's Jacquard softcup. It's very comfortable and gives decent support and will likely suit your shape. They make your cup size, but start at a 32 back, so this bra would require alteration. 
  • Finally, Royce specializes in wirefree bras and they make two bras (the Charlotte and the Sadie) in 30H-J. I am vaguely familiar with the Charlotte (I've seen it on maybe 3 women) and not familiar with the Sadie. I find Royce bras are tricky. The straps are often too thin (and can be uncomfortable), they don't give much uplift and tend to give a very separate "east-west" look. But perhaps one of their bras could be made to work.
Ed. note: I've tried the Dotty and the shape is front and centre but it really smushes the boobs together (as bras with no wire all seem to do). The only non-underwired bra I've tried that doesn't smush - at least nowhere to the same extent - is the Triumph Doreen. I can second that I've bought the bra in a 34 and I can wear it on the second hook and I, too, wear a 30 or 32 back. BTW - I LOVE this bra and it's crazy pointy shape. It's truly retro. I mean, seriously, they haven't updated this bra since 1958 and they're proud of it! I also go down a cup size in the Doreen cuz it fits roomily, IMO. I've tried the Royce Charlotte. I never wear it, though I bought it as a lounge bra. It gives a bizarre shape - bad pointy - and it's insanely tight in the back. The straps are strangely positioned to provide maximal hurtiness.

And Anonymous writes:

I have been measured by a pretty reputable store as a 32DD. I have a hard time finding a bra because despite that DD I don't think I'm that prominent. Somewhat of course…DD on a small frame…but to me it seems like my breast shape is more wide than tall if that makes any sense. I can feel breast tissue from my center all the way around to my side and most of the bras dig in on the side and leave a gouge mark by the end of the day. A bigger cup doesn't help because then I don't fill it up.

I've been told the wire shape is called the "smile" and so I feel like I should be hunting for a bra with a wide smile rather than a U shape. So:

1) Is there a brand or certain type of bra style that has a wider smile?
2) How do I get fitters to understand this?

Thanks for introducing me to the term "smile". What a great way to describe an underwire! It sounds like you have shallow breasts with a wide root. I find this shape of bust fits best in a broad demi or a shell-shaped plunge (a shallow plunge with more fullness on the bottom and sides rather than one with lots of depth). 
 
Brands in your size, that tend to have a broad shallow shape, include Marie Jo (the "Tom" is a great shell shape), Prima Donna (many of their lined demis and the "Madison" low full cup) and Curvy Kate's showgirl range. You'll want to avoid Simone Perele and most of Freya. When you are trying on bras, make sure you "swoop and scoop" your breast tissue into the cup to ensure all of the breast tissue is firmly encased in the wire. 
 
Not sure how to help you to get fitters to better understand your needs, as it seems like you have a pretty clear understanding of your body and your challenges with bras! I suggest that you start by clearly stating your situation, and then view the fitting as a way for the fitter to help you (generally women become fitters because they want to help people).  Ask to try some of the styles I've mentioned here and see how it goes.
 
Ed. note: Man, I seem to have a lot to add today! What I'll say is that you know you've found a good fitter when she listens to what you say and encourages you to make bra suggestions to her (or at least is very open to bringing you the brands you'd like to try - even if she senses that they might not end up working on your frame). Bra-fitting is part science and part art. If you and the fitter observe that things are working or not working, you can join forces and move towards the brands, sizes and styles that work best for you. If you don't feel immediate chemistry with your fitter, that's not the death-knell of the experience. We all settle in at a different pace. Remember that fitters see a lot of clients who are really off the mark vis a vis what will actually fit so they sometimes have to develop a "firm" (for want of a better way of saying this) approach to help those women come to terms with new sizing. Some fitters (just people, after all) do this very gracefully and perfectly for the client. Some need a bit of latitude to understand the client better. Mind you, if a fitter is not open to collaborating, I suggest you try on a couple of things and politely move on.
 
Today's questions: Do you wear a non-underwired bra that works for you? Do your breasts have the shallow shape / wide root and, if so, what brands are your faves? My shape is as far from that as could be, so I love learning more about this!

20 comments:

  1. Great post - I never realized I too am a "smile" and thanks for the recommendations! One of my sewing "goals" is to make the perfect bra - it's an inspirational goal - I am looking for sewing bra class here in LA!

    I was in Calgary/Banff last week and was thinking about your blog! I had to ask myself - why do Canadians seem smarter than Americans? And, it's not just the accent!

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    1. Pammie: That's a great goal - I share it!

      And I can't believe that you'd have time to think of my blog while in Banff! Man, that's a beautiful place.

      As a hybrid American/Canadian, I can assure you that Canadians do not seem smarter than Americans, except in specific instances! Now, the English...:-)

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  2. I'm a similar size to Kay, and unfortunately I've had no luck with soft-cup bras. Oddly, the most comfortable/well-shaped for me have been maternity bras (and I've never been pregnant)!

    I've also tried the Royce Charlotte, and would give it a big thumbs down. It had a tight band, but somehow it wasn't supportive and my breasts were hanging off my shoulders. It didn't have the shape that I wanted either.

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    1. Kat: I haven't either, in truth. Other than the Doreen, they're all just boob-smushers. Much has to do with breast shape, but at a certain size, wire and the kind of cuts of bras that include wire, really make all the difference to lift with distinction between the two breasts.

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  3. I'm also the shallow/wide root shape and I actually find the Freya padded half cup fits very well, though I did have to go down a bit in size. I know Change isn't everyone's cup of tea, but they have a demi/plunge in their line of staples (always stocked) which fits better than any other bra I've ever purchased, hands down. I agree with the advice of demi or plunge styles, that's always what looks best on me. Full cups are usually too empty on top and yet at the same time somehow tend to cut in at the upper edge. Although its fine by me as I don't like that look on me anyway, I want minimal coverage! (Perhaps that actually explains something... Being wide means I have a large cup size but being shallow means I don't need a lot of support? Explaining why I'm always frustrated that bras in my size are "too much" in almost every way? Hmm.)

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    1. Great feedback, K. Thanks. Alas, Change is SO wrong for me - though I'm happy the brand works for lots of women because at least they offer a wide range of sizes.

      I wonder which shallow bras have the least coverage...

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    2. I think I must be of the shallow/wide type too - definitely filling out towards the sides. Change is really working for me as well, in fact, I think all my currant bras are from them! I especially like their basic Tactel
      Balconette bra (love that the straps are sort of padded so they don't get uncomfortable).

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    3. I think that this might be the one that works for me as well! They have two basics that are similar, one is a 3-piece cup construction and more of a plunge, whereas the other is a 2-piece cup construction and more of a low/demi/balconette (no idea what it's actually called)... the latter is the one that fits me like a dream.

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    4. I was thinking about this today, and felt like coming back to type it into permanency... while Change has its drawbacks, I think it's filling a very important hole in the market and there is a lot about the store that I like. Mainly, I like that they put their sizes on the floor so you can help yourself, rather than holding all the stock hostage in the back and leaving you at the whim of a salesperson (which is my primary complaint about high-end lingerie shops). Secondly, perhaps obviously, is the price point - it opens up a whole world of bra sizes to people who just simply can't afford $75-$125+ for a bra. They are getting better at carrying a few more expensive styles that are obviously made of nicer/more delicate materials, as well. My main complaint about them is that they aren't larger... I'm picky so if I'm in need of a bra or want something other than my usual beige or black basics I have to go back every month or two religiously in the hopes that I might find something once or twice a year that I like. I also wish the store would expand to more places, so more women in that price point would have an alternative to La Senza!

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    5. I'm really glad to find that Change has worked well for both of you ladies. I think the store has a lot to recommend it - especially (as Katy says) the fact that the stock is available to touch and take without assistance. And the prices are reasonable. Alas, they totally don't work for me. Even in 2 cup sizes up and two band sizes down, the fit is wrong.

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  4. It seems that anonymous has the same shape as me and almost the same size (I'm on the smaller side of 32E right now, I should be 30F by measurements, but I have bony ribcage, so wear a sister size usually).
    What worked fab on me out of the box:
    - Masquerade Tiffany Plunge (size down in the band and size up in the cups), unfortunately, this bra is discontinued, but it could be found on e-bay;
    - Mimi Holliday Super Plunge (it's really a very open half cup bra).
    If you want you can read some reviews in my blog and learn more about bras that didn't fit me )) and alterations (I love Masquerade Rhea, so I altered straps and wires to make it work for me).

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    1. Great feedback! Thanks. Ebay is a godsend for the discontinued bras. I'm going to check out your posts...

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    2. Yeah, Ebay is a real godsend. I've got most of my bras from there.

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  5. Ugh, I have wide roots, but...I do not have large breasts. I have never, ever found an unpadded bra that fit even nominally. Even lines that are supposedly for "petites" are either padded and/or built for a much smaller frame, with closer-set breasts and shoulders. I'd love to find an unpadded bra that comes in something like a 28D or 30C, but they're just not out there, as far as I can tell. If anybody knows different, please enlighten me!
    Till then, back to my sewing shop to try again.

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    1. OK - great next question. I'll add it to the list!

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  6. Thank you Veronica (and Kristin) for answering my Question on wire free bra with great support...I'll check out those bras...

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  7. I too have a wide smile :-). Thanks for the better terminology. But I'd encourage you to try and find DDs if it seems you may need them. Possibly part of why you're so wide and shallow has to do with wearing a too-small cup for a long while - breast tissue will migrate to wherever it can if it doesn't fit into the cup offered. Took me a long while to figure that out :-(.. the good news is that it does get better when you start wearing the right size consistently.

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  8. I haven't heard of the wide smile term for breasts before! It's very cute! I am also not a big fan of under-wired bras. My favorite bra is the longline bra mequon which fits my breasts perfectly!

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    1. Thanks for this info Delores. I've not heard of this brand...

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